Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: winland on September 28, 2013, 07:32:13 pm
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What is the difference between these two 031AV's
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The bottom one has a newer starter cover.
Other than the starter, they appear to be the same version of 031.
031's had no brake, a drive release system, or a brake somewhat like today's brake depending on the year made.
Also the later 031's had a solid state CD type ignition and they said "Electronic" on the cover under the 031 emblem.
The original 031 had a points type ignition.
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Thanks for that great detailed info.
Much appreciated.
Chuck
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I purchased the 031av in the top photo for $50.
It runs "rough" especially at idle.
My main purpose in buying this saw is to take it apart and see if I can put it back together again.
Hopefully it will run after I get it back together, but not high expectations.
Probably a hopeless goal, but WTF.
I have not found a tag on the saw with the year/model/sn
I have downloaded a user and a service manual for the 031AV, but do not have an IPL.
I need the IPL for the early 031AV
Also, I want to replace the black, rubber fuel line from the tank to the carb.
Can I buy an appropriate fuel line at my TSC, ACEHardware, or Lowes?
If I need to replace the carb (not going to rebuild), what carb can I buy/use?
Can I replace the fuel filter with a basic/generic filter chainsaw filter from my local hardware store?
Any other fuel related parts on this old saw that this crazy,old, newbie might try replacing?
Thanks.
Chuck
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I think I've seen two of these things in my life time.One a neighbor next to my shop has and one in a dealers dead pile .
I can't figure out what model of carb it has because the IPL is in German but it lists both Walbro and Tillotson but doesn't give a model number .At any rate some place on the carb will be a model number .Stihl often uses some special linkage assemblies so just replacing by model number may not exactly work .They aren't the difficult to rebuild .
Fuel line I haven't found yet but you might get lucky and find an oem one at a dealer
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The fuel line from the carb to the tank, you can use some line from your hardware store,tsc. The fuel filter has a 1/4" nipple, so stihl or aftermarket. Northwood saw should have a cheap fuel filter for you. The fuel line in the tank is an oem piece. specially molded. There where two carbs used on an 031, not sure witch one you have. Walbro WA-2C and a Tillotson HU-3G.
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Thanks Al and Jason.
I will try to check the carb for markings/manufacturer.
Chuck
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The Walbro kit #K10-WAT, the Tillotson kit# RK-14HU. think you are going to have a hard time in finding a new carb for that saw. unless someone has some new old stock. i would just try to rebuild it your self.
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Stihl is hard to decipher. You wont find the year etc on stihl, like you can on a husky. Serial number can give a little idea for a stihl dealer to sometimes give you a idea.
All I can find.
031 AV 1971-1982 3.2 hp 48 cc 37, 40 cm 6.3 kg 37 cm Price 1974 Sword 732,60 DM under the name "Stihl 031 AV electronic" with electric. Ignition 1974, the world first saw with quick-stop chain brake.
031 AV 1971 - 1982 3,2 PS 48 cm³ 37, 40 cm 6,3 kg Preis 1974 mit 37 cm-Schwert 732,60 DM; unter dem Namen "Stihl 031 AV electronic" mit elektr. Zündung 1974 die weltweit erste Säge mit Quickstop-Kettenbremse.
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Carb is a Walbro WA
23-77 is also stamped on the carb
Chuck
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The 23-77 number is a part number for one of the covers. Sounds to me like you have the WA-2C.
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OK, I got a rebuild kit for the 031AV Walbro WA-2C and was able to rebuild my first carb.
Never to old to learn a new skill.
I put the saw back together again and adjust the carb to factory spec. 1 1/4 turns out on the H and L
Actually got the saw to fire up run, although not running smoothly.
I am slightly confused.
The H and L screws in the manual appear to be reversed from what they are labeled on the actual carb.
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/031AV%20Walbro%20carb1.jpg)
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/031AVcarb1.jpg)
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"L" is always closest to the engine and "H" is closest to the air filter
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I was having lots of trouble tuning the carb.
The chain would not stop regardless of what I did with the "LA" or "T" or what ever you want to call it, screw.
Back to the books and then back to the chainsaw to check the clutch springs.
Yep one spring is broken.
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/Clutch%20031av.jpg)
Anybody have a clutch for an 031av that matches this photo?
I checked for used ones on fleebay. They are in the $20 range. New is $75. More than I paid for the saw.
Chuck
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well i'll give you $40 for the saw
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Those springs are most likely still available at the Stihl dealer.................if you want to go to a Stihl dealer.
Mike
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The clutch shoe's are missing the( glue) brake pats, so the spring will brake ;)
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The clutch shoe's are missing the( glue) brake pats, so the spring will brake
Not sure what you are referring to. Please explain.
Thanks
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The old Stihls had bonded linings on the clutch shoes and yours are missing the lining. You need shoes as well as the spring.
Best to get a whole new clutch spider assembly
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The old Stihls had bonded linings on the clutch shoes and yours are missing the lining. You need shoes as well as the spring.
Best to get a whole new clutch spider assembly
Thanks for the clarification.
I removed the clutch and took it to my local Stihl dealer.
He gave me 3 new springs for $3.
I asked if he saw anything else wrong with it. He mentioned that some had linings on the shoes but could not tell if mine was one of them.
Installed the new springs, re-installed the clutch and fired it up.
Just a reminder here, this is not really my cutting saw, I have several other good saws to cut wood with.
THIS SAW is really my "learning saw" on how to take things apart and put them back together again.
Trying to teach this old dog some new tricks without costing too much money.
Now that the chain was not dragging, because of the clutch, I was able to re-tune the carb that I had just rebuilt.
Really pretty easy when everything is working ;D
I will keep an eye on the clutch and new springs.
Thanks all for your help.
Chuck
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A good rule of thumb on those linings is that if there is a lot of space between the metal shoes and the drum, it probably had linings
Or
If you keep breaking springs
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The old Stihls had bonded linings on the clutch shoes and yours are missing the lining. You need shoes as well as the spring.
Best to get a whole new clutch spider assembly
Thanks for the clarification.
I removed the clutch and took it to my local Stihl dealer.
He gave me 3 new springs for $3.
I asked if he saw anything else wrong with it. He mentioned that some had linings on the shoes but could not tell if mine was one of them.
Installed the new springs, re-installed the clutch and fired it up.
Just a reminder here, this is not really my cutting saw, I have several other good saws to cut wood with.
THIS SAW is really my "learning saw" on how to take things apart and put them back together again.
Trying to teach this old dog some new tricks without costing too much money.
Now that the chain was not dragging, because of the clutch, I was able to re-tune the carb that I had just rebuilt.
Really pretty easy when everything is working ;D
I will keep an eye on the clutch and new springs.
Thanks all for your help.
Chuck
Very cool 8)
Thats what the site was made for. Learning to work on your own chainsaws. Sharing knowledge with others FREEly and making new friends along the way. WTG
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All 031 had linings on the shoes ;) new one's are without linings and there for a bit higher( less play between the shoe and the sprocket bell )
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I have to disagree there, even if you said it about 030's!!!!
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I am guessing from this updated photo of my 031AV clutch, after I put new springs in it,
that it probably needs the pads/liners.
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/031clutch.jpg)
Looking on fleebay, some of the $20 used replacement clutches do not look like they have any pads/liners.
If I buy a used, replacement clutch, I will make sure it has the pads/liners.
Thanks guys.
Chuck
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Good luck finding clutch shoes with the pads. I have seen several hundred if not more 030, 031, 032s over the years, and have only seen a couple with pads on the shoes, and if they needed replaced we had to go with the non-padded shoes, as the padded ones
were nla a long time ago. The regular clutches were/are more reliable as well.
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OK, I got a rebuild kit for the 031AV Walbro WA-2C and was able to rebuild my first carb.
Never to old to learn a new skill.
I put the saw back together again and adjust the carb to factory spec. 1 1/4 turns out on the H and L
Actually got the saw to fire up run, although not running smoothly.
I am slightly confused.
The H and L screws in the manual appear to be reversed from what they are labeled on the actual carb.
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/031AV%20Walbro%20carb1.jpg)
(http://www.comwavz.com/~winland/Sale/031AVcarb1.jpg)
Hi speed is #1 but Low speed is #3 not 2 as that page from the manual states. #2 is the idle adjustment. No wonder you were having problems!
Lee
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Just curious about the "pad" scene.................
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High speed adjust (closest to air filter) is #3
Low speed adjust (closest to carb) is #1
Idle adjust is #2
The manual was totally WRONG
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Well that one my neighbor by my shop had didn't run too bad after I tuned it for him .It wasn't the most powerfull thing but it did okay .
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Got one in today to trouble shoot for a guy that gave up. Still hatem. Made me sweat. :D :D :D :D :D
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Just had a idea that might be happening. The black oem fuel line might be collapsing. I had to put on a new filter and noticed the fuel line seemed very giving.
It will start run then die. I was thinking coil or carb kit. Coil checks out on tester. Then I thought maybe fuel line collapsing.
Anyone seen this?
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Just had a idea that might be happening. The black oem fuel line might be collapsing. I had to put on a new filter and noticed the fuel line seemed very giving.
It will start run then die. I was thinking coil or carb kit. Coil checks out on tester. Then I thought maybe fuel line collapsing.
Anyone seen this?
So nobody has seen or heard of a fuel line collapsing in the tank?
I'm going to undo fuel line and run a redneck 2nd fuel line and filter to a can and test my theory of what may be happening.
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I think I've seen two of these things in my life time.One a neighbor next to my shop has and one in a dealers dead pile .
That surprises me. They were very popular here with farmers and firewood cutters.
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Kevin, never seen one collapse. Wouldn't surprise me though...
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There are a lot of 031's & a few 032's in the North Central Ohio area. You see them on Craig's list all the time and there's usually a used one in the chainsaw shops
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Friend of mine bought one new in 1979. I service that dang thing for him and sharpen about 12 chains at a time when it comes in.
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Just figured it out. Always showed good spark when tested with my new spark analyzer tool and old school tester.
So I pulled carb put in new kit. new fuel filter etc. Start and runs a few mins and then boom off.
So I put on my old school spark tester after supper. Got it started and watched the spark. Seemed good then once it warmed up boom no spark. The typical 031 spark BS. Oh well.
This one has the old school stihl emblem on it. So guessing it might be a points one?
Like this one.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2298.0;attach=12624;image)
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I think you are correct on points. Are you going to convert it to electronic ?
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I think you are correct on points. Are you going to convert it to electronic ?
Nope I dont do that as this is the 2nd one I have had come in needing the atom. IMO the saws aint worth the time and money. JMO
One of those deals I choose not to work on.
To me these are 50-100 saws. Unless like new then maybe 100-120 like the one I sold for Jim
Now if owner of said saw was to do it for themselves yeah all for it. ;)
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I have never put one of those atoms in can you show how it is done if you don't mind. I have a friend of mine that wants me to fix up a couple 031's that he has and I know for sure that one of them has points. Last time I have mess with something like the atom was on a briggs motor in high school small engines class. Any help would be great.
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I have never put one of those atoms in can you show how it is done if you don't mind. I have a friend of mine that wants me to fix up a couple 031's that he has and I know for sure that one of them has points. Last time I have mess with something like the atom was on a briggs motor in high school small engines class. Any help would be great.
Who you talking to? I aint doing squat to these things. ;)
If someone else please show it being done. I have seen it before in past when I had the last one but wasnt worth the trouble to me. But I dont care enough about these.
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The 031 is not so straight forward when using the Atom.
There's a polarity problem and then a timing problem.
The flywheel needs to be moved.
More often with the 031 points saws it is just the capacitor that's bad.
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I was talking to you cut. So the atom is no good for the 031. That is good to know Thanks
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I was talking to you cut. So the atom is no good for the 031. That is good to know Thanks
I was told yes it is good for 031. I just wont do it is all.
Just like Jim was saying. Not worth it to me for this saw I dont like. :P
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This is how I figured out I didnt just have a fuel issue after going through everything. But a spark issue too.
After all the above the saw would run great and then stop. I ran the saw with the old school spark light tester attached during testing so I could watch it. Great spark for mins on hand then, like you flip the switch off. Just glad I figured it out for owner even though not good news.
://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/201T/supxxvecho45dl%20007_zpsptkmar12.jpg.html][img width=600 height=450]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/supxxvecho45dl%20007_zpsptkmar12.jpg
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Ran that 031 the other day for 7mins straight. Ran great and idled great etc. Till she got the coil or other electrical part hot.
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now to find out wich electrical part ;D
i wold thinkt the coil