Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: leec on October 28, 2013, 09:22:23 pm
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Hi Guys,
I could really use the above ws manual as the 017 ws manual that I have just isn't quite there. Few differences, specially the snorkel carburetor. This carb seems to have both H&L fixed and only an extra air adjustment (which has a left hand thread??!) So is this a type of "Stratos" carb?
Many thanks in advance
Lee
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https://www.manuals4u.com.au/chainsaw/stihl/
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Look in your Gmail
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No, the snorkel goes to the air cleaner and is supposed to help when the saw is running a dirty/clogged air filter.
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No, the snorkel goes to the air cleaner and is supposed to help when the saw is running a dirty/clogged air filter.
Hey thanks Fish,
My snorkel carb gets its air from the same place as the normal venturi, ie both have to pass through the air filter. I think there must be another reason for the snorkel. I think it may be similar to the Poulan Stratos engines. Anyway I don't like not being able to adjust the fuel mix. The only adjustment is to increase the air flow which only affects the idle, which oddly enough has a lefthand thread!
This unit has a scored piston which I think was caused by the mix being too lean, as per the EPA requirements. I'm thinking of putting on the adjustable carb that was fitted to the earlier model of the ms170.
Regards,
Lee
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No, nothing at all like the stratified carb. The air coming from the filter box is pretty much the point. Here is a tech bulletin
from the 029 snorkel carb/same setup.
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Like Fish stated....far cry from a strato carb.
The snorkel like vent is what STIHL calls INTELLICARB.
And its function is once again.....just like Fish stated.
(http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg634/Adirondackstihl/017_zps922027b0.jpg) (http://s1247.photobucket.com/user/Adirondackstihl/media/017_zps922027b0.jpg.html)
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I'm thinking of putting on the adjustable carb
Walbro WT 215
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Thanks guys for putting me straight on that issue. I think I would still like to replace the carb with a fully adjustable one. Do you see any problems with that solution. The earlier 170 had a normal carb i believe.
Lee
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I had a like new 025 with a single needle carb. Actually the mixture was "OK" but I didn't like the idea of a single needle carb.
The new carb was less than $25 from the Stihl dealer. Was a bolt in change over. Now I'm content.
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This ms170 has a piston that needs replacing and I have a Golf piston for it. Boy those wrist pin clips are buggers to get fitted in the their groves. Need a little acid to remove some ali transfer from on the cylinder. I'll let you know how it all goes.
Lee
PS AS is back up
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I dont use acid, only elbow grease. Mastermind dont either and has a nice set up for himself to make it easier on his elbow.
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I dont use acid, only elbow grease. Mastermind dont either and has a nice set up for himself to make it easier on his elbow.
I've used some scotch brite and that has helped but there is still some transfer left. Do you recommend just keeping at it or using fine emery cloth maybe
Thanks
Lee
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You just have to be careful you don't rub threw the cylinder coating or put any deep grooves in it, I start with Emory to get the bulk of it and then finish with a scotch brite . Cut how does it go if you can't catch a finger nail on it, you should be good to go.
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The new piston has to go up and down the cylinder?
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What do you mean?
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You need to get all the galled aluminum from the cylinder wall so the piston and ring will fit the cylinder without galling again.
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You are correct, I was miss leading in my last post. It would apply for any scrapes or gouging of the cylinder walls
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Sorry about that, got excited
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So I got some acid and away I went. The scoring was either worse than I thought or the acid burned through the Nikasil coating. I now have a couple of small but seeable chips or breakes in the cylinder coating. So, should I put it back together with a new piston/rings and run it like I stole it or get a new jug and do it properly?
Lee
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If they are at the very top near the combustion chamber you may be ok. If it is down low around the ports you may have a problem. I think I would hunt down another cylinder. No point in wasting good rings and a piston.
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So I got some acid and away I went. The scoring was either worse than I thought or the acid burned through the Nikasil coating. I now have a couple of small but seeable chips or breakes in the cylinder coating. So, should I put it back together with a new piston/rings and run it like I stole it or get a new jug and do it properly?
Lee
To further complicate this question. This saw started and ran pretty well before I removed the aluminum galling from the cylinder. I do have a new piston (Golf, maybe Chinese)) so I think I'll put it back together and see how it goes. It that doesn't work out all I've lost is my time and a cheap piston but I will have gained a bunch of experience.
Thanks for your input, much appreciated.
Lee