Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: 038magnum on November 01, 2013, 08:48:47 am
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I've an old 026 that's done a good deal of trimming and moderate sawing duty that recently began dying when tossed to its side. Runs fine upright, never missing a lick. I'm assuming the pickup tube in the tank may be the culprit, maybe kinking a bit when laid over. Any suggestions before I start? Oh yeah, new to the forum, this is my first post.
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That would be a good less costly place to try first but sometimes it is the high side crank seal?
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I hadn't thought of that as an issue....I always throw it on its right side, maybe I'll toss it to the left side and see if it still dies. I guess that may eliminate (or point to) the seal as an issue....???
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Personally I never went for the tilt/leaking seal theory, my vote would be a fuel line gummy issue, of course bad av mts and a torn boot or impulse is possible too. But going through the carb and a new kit, new fuel line and filter is always a good thing to do on an old saw.
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I may get to it this weekend if the local farm supply has a carb kit and tubing etc. If not, the much older 038 is always on standby.... Thanks for the suggestions.
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Personally I never went for the tilt/leaking seal theory, my vote would be a fuel line gummy issue, of course bad av mts and a torn boot or impulse is possible too. But going through the carb and a new kit, new fuel line and filter is always a good thing to do on an old saw.
I've never been able to get my head wrapped around that theory either, Fish.....BUT, having said that, almost every 026 I've run into that has ran funny on it's side, has had a flywheel side seal leaking. ???
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with that in mind the 026 tiny recoil side
seal is a pita to remove without that special seal remover, any suggestions?
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You fellows are starting to make me bum out a little bit...I was hoping for a simple fuel delivery fix... oh well no big deal, that's why we have backups, right ?? ;D
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Do the carb kit and check the fuel line possibly the impulse circuit first. See if you can get by with less trouble?
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Do the carb kit and check the fuel line possibly the impulse circuit first. See if you can get by with less trouble?
Sounds like the best plan. I will proceed as soon as parts are picked up.
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Look before you pickup the fuel lines, there are two different ones that don't interchange. Look in the tank, one is short and straight, the other is long and is molded into an "S" shape. The grommet size id different.
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I actually had one in here that was doing the same thing, turned out that after ordering the lines, kit etc as was suggested by FISH, it was a mis-routed plug wire that had **** and was grounding out on the jug when the saw was turned bar-side down. I figured this out by removing the top cover, starting the saw, turning out the shop lights, then turning the saw on its' side while running. You could actually see the HT charge jump out of the plug wire and go directly to the cylinder. The mis-routing of the plug wire was the route cause of the problem since it allowed the wire to rub on the case when the saw was running. The SM shows the correct routing on the wire, in case you want to check.
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Sorry about that, I'll buy the line and kit from you if you want........
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.... it was a mis-routed plug wire that had **** and was grounding out on the jug when the saw was turned bar-side down. I figured this out by removing the top cover, starting the saw, turning out the shop lights, then turning the saw on its' side while running. You could actually see the HT charge jump out of the plug wire and go directly to the cylinder.
Another note taken and I will check that as well...no time to devote to it yet :-[ All good suggestions and thank you. When I get this one done, I've an issue with a cheapie 025 and a problem with a aaaaaa aaaa (shhhhh)............ Poulan.
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Sorry about that, I'll buy the line and kit from you if you want........
FISH, no big deal the parts have already been used on other 026 saws that have come and gone.
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I have used this seal puller on several 024's and 026's on the flywheel side. Pops them right out with no harm to the crankshaft!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Lisle-Shaft-Type-Seal-Puller-Seal-Remover-Cam-Shaft-Crank-Shaft-Remover-/231177267708?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item35d33d29fc&vxp=mtr#ht_1814wt_892
Tip...I use a bar nut under the fulcrum.
Dave
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Ive been reading the past responses and am learning some new terminology. What is "impulse circuit" and Dave what do you mean by "Tip...I use a bar nut under the fulcrum".
I totally appreciate the wealth if info on this site.
Randy
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Randy, the impulse circuit is a method to drive the carburetor pump with pressure bled off the crankcase pressure built up on the power stroke of the engine. TIP, the tool that Dave is talking has an adjustable fulcrum which in the case of a chainsaw is too short, so Dave puts a bar nut under it to get it to the right height.
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Yeah, the impulse kinda goes both ways to pump the fuel, it gets a bit of "umf" both ways I believe.......
But then again, I have always had 2 nuts under my fulcrum......
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LMFAO +1 Fish
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Yeah, the impulse kinda goes both ways to pump the fuel, it gets a bit of "umf" both ways I believe.......
But then again, I have always had 2 nuts under my fulcrum......
Do they also work in a push-pull action like so many of the electronic amplifiers?
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Yeah, the impulse kinda goes both ways to pump the fuel, it gets a bit of "umf" both ways I believe.......
But then again, I have always had 2 nuts under my fulcrum......
Do they also work in a push-pull action like so many of the electronic amplifiers?
Hey I remember that.