Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: alsled on November 09, 2013, 08:11:14 pm
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Picked up a 394 and will be going through it top to bottom, What do you guys use for bearings and seals, oem, or can I get the same thing at a local place? What is the part numbers for the bearings and seals, not husky numbers.
Thanks,
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The bearings are a 6203 available most anywhere that sells bearings 40mm OD x 17mm ID x 12mm wide
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=604
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http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=506
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The big thing is not to use bearings that have the plastic cage.
The part number for the latest 394 bearings are; Husqvarna 738220325 (replaces 503250002)
BALL BEARING 6203C3-QE6
The bearing part number is 6203, with a C3 clearance. Timken, SKF or NTN
http://www.locateballbearings.com/TimkenBearings.html
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What's wrong with the plastic cage? That's what most OEM bearings are using now. The stihl 460 bearings I just installed had plastic cages.
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The latest version of the oem bearing, is it open on both sides or does it have seals on it?
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Most often, after market bearings will have seals which are easily popped-off with a small screw driver.
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I have used SKF 6203 C3 2RS (two sided rubber seals) and just popped out the seals as 660 mentioned, work fine and are usually cheaper than the open bearing for some reason. I have seen both the plastic and metal ball retainer fail. One might think that the plastic retainer would cause less damage when failure occurs but that is not the case IMHO, catastrophic bearing failure creates a mess of the case no matter what material is used in the retainer.
I have also used Nachi bearings with no problems in Husqvarna saws.
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Thanks, personally I have no Idea why any manufactuer would put bearings on a 2 stroke crank with seals on them, lack of oil!! Ski Doo tried this on some snowmobile engines, they failed very rapidly.
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Factory bearings are open both sides
Here is what the case splitter looks like there are more than 1 of these tools listed in the service tools catalog for different series of saws 394 uses the one that ends in 61-01. Also, you will need the crank assembly tool which pulls the crank into the case there are several of these also depending on saw model. The crank installation tool is 502 50 30-08 the same tool is used for 281/288.
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Anybody know the seal part number other then oem, like a manufacturer of the seal part number?
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I googled all around and didn't come up with a CR #
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Me neither.
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OEM seals 503 26 02-05
OEM bearings 503 25 00-02 BALL BEARING 6203C3QE6 replaced by 738 22 03-25
Seals from HLSProParts
Product Code: H29288
Bearings from HLS
Product Code: H32288
The 394 288 and 281 all use the same bearings and seals.
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Here you go if you're going aftermarket. http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/o503473701.htm
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What's wrong with the plastic cage? That's what most OEM bearings are using now. The stihl 460 bearings I just installed had plastic cages.
I realize in some applications your stuck with the oem bearing. The problem with the nylon caged bearing is it isnt as strong as the metal caged bearing.
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The polyamide caged bearing is considered superior for high speed use.
Some people's theory was that the plastic cage would cause no harm to the piston/cylinder.
My experience is that when the cage goes, the rod hits in the bottom of the case when the balls all get on one side and metal gets up on top of the piston anyway.
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The polyamide caged bearing is considered superior for high speed use.
Some people's theory was that the plastic cage would cause no harm to the piston/cylinder.
My experience is that when the cage goes, the rod hits in the bottom of the case when the balls all get on one side and metal gets up on top of the piston anyway.
+1 660 couldn't have said it better or been more correct!
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When replacing crank bearings, you DO NOT put the bearings on the crank and pull it into the case! Bearing fitment to the case is an interference fit, to do it without using heat will gall the bearing cups and ruin the case! You heat the case in the oven or with a heat gun and tap the case on a block of wood, the old bearings will drop out. You then reheat the case and drop a new bearing that has been in the freezer overnight into the case.
You then use the crankshaft assembly tool to pull the crank into the clutch side of the case, then install the gasket and pull the crank and clutch side of the case into the flywheel side using the opposite side of the assembly tool. There are two large threaded counter bored bolts each tapped for the clutch and flywheel side of the crank.