Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: cummins12valve on November 24, 2013, 10:27:39 pm
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I am considering buying a stihl ms210 that has a scorched piston and cylinder. the saw is cheap and worth it to me if it only needs a topend and cylinder. besides those what should I look for, and is there anything special that needs to be done for teardown/ reassembly? I have experience rebuilding 2 stroke dirtbike engines.
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Typically the fuel line is bad.
They often have a single needle carb with no High Speed adjustment.
There is a reason that the cylinder is scored. Could be someone forgot to put oil in the gas? Could be there was a air leak. May have been a bad fuel line or fuel filter or it could be the seals on the bearings.
This is a plastic body chainsaw with a individual metal engine assembly. The crank case is split horizontally at the crankshaft. There is the bottom cover with the upper part of the crankcase and the cylinder being one piece.
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Agreed, figure out why she cooked before you order any parts. Like 660 said there re any number of reasons why it has a cooked top end. Due to the way the saw is designed it is not a big deal to change all the seals when you replace the top end.
Get on the IPL and manuals thread and see if someone hs a copy of the MS210 IPL and Workshop manuals. They will give you all the correct part numbers and make life much easier when doing the repairs.
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If you need to replace the cylinder, then make it a ms250
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If you need to replace the cylinder, then make it a ms250
OH YEAH! What Fish said!!!
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I have a 025 and a 250 - they are nice 45cc what I call limbing chainsaws. Mine are .325 but some are 3/8 low profile.
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Thanks for all the replies and so does the ms250 piston and cylinder bolt right on no modifacation needed?
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Not exactly, the crankshaft has a longer stroke on the 250
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-STIHL-NEW-ENGINE-PISTON-CYLINDER-MS-250-CHAINSAW-MS-230-210-/390688525003?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af6d9cacb
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Yaa I'd probly leave it as a 210
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I would put some crank seals in for sure. Have had a lot of problems with them. Make sure you use a new gasket where the carb mounts and make sure the flange behind the gasket is not deformed around the screw holes. They will pull up if the carb is over torqued. It will cause an air leak there as well. Other wise hope you enjoy your build and the saw. There will also be 2 different seal options you can choose. 9638 003 1581 is for if the engine is assembled. You are going to want part number 9638 003 1585 for seals, make sure you use sealant around the outer edges of the seals and around the engine pan. And don't go light on the sealant around the engine pan.
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I have a 250 crank if you are interest
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Get a 250 motor and put it in it it fit's right in ;D
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Good point, I always sold the whole engine so I wasn't thinking about the crank, good catch!
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Also it is a tight fit to get the crank threw the hole near the oil pump
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Don't know but is a 230 (at least a little upgrade) a direct bolt on?
On the other hand we have aftermarket guys here who can supply more or less the whole 250 engine with new bearings for around 120€! If the saw is running in a homeowner setting I would have no fear of using a kit like that.
7
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The 230 and 250 share the same crankshaft
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The crankcase is the same part number for all 3, so the full block interchanges nicely.
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A member posted here a month or two ago that he has a used 250 engine complete for sale. His user name is bloodontheice. He is a stand up guy. Have got some stuff from him before with no problems. Pm him to see if he still has it. If you are interested
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http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/for-sale/stihl-ms-250-short-block/msg25072/#msg25072
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Did you get your saw going?