Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: DeerMeadowFarm on December 11, 2013, 02:00:58 pm
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Hey guys, I'm new here. I did some searching but I couldn't find any exact answer so I'm posting for help. I need to replace the fuel tank on my 372XP. Can anyone give me any advice, tips, photos, links, etc.? Anything would help. A parts break down/schematic would be helpful as well but I don't have one.
Thanks in advance!
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Thats a easy one to do.
I'll' dig some stuff up and post.
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husqvarna 372 IPL http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2003_AAaa/HUSI2003_AAaa__1062604-63.pdf
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What are you having trouble with? There is a service manual thread on here, ask for a manual and a parts list. Should be pretty straight forward. Remove the bar and chain, starter cover, wrap handle, carb, av spring screws. And a couple of limiter stop screws.
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husqvarna 372 service workshop manual
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHusqvarna-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FW0001001.pdf&ei=m7uoUpu7H6SVygH-mICIBQ&usg=AFQjCNFvNcb8yUAgdU3AXo-kIx05B3GSxQ&sig2=uTjsiHqdbPUdHXDDAS16Ag&bvm=bv.57799294,d.aWc
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That's great info there Cut4Fun; thanks!
Any other parts I should replace "while I'm at it"?
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I'd use a new fuel line and tank filter
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You should make sure the travel limiter on the clutch side of the case behind the clutch is not damaged. Also there is a travel limiter cast into the case on the opposite side that has a tubular buffer on it, make sure that is not damaged. You will have to remove the on/off switch in order to remove the tank. When reassembling the saw make sure the blue and black wires to the switch are not caught in the left rear AV spring. You will also have to disconnect the throttle cable from the carb in order to remove the tank. Make sure you have not disturbed the cable attachment to the trigger, it is a big PITA to replace without further disassembly of the tank handle unit
A few pair of curved hemostats (harbor freight) are very useful running the wires and cables. If you are using a new OEM tank you will not need to replace the fuel line, used is another story as well as most aftermarket are another story.
In either case you will need to move the spring AV mounts from your current tank to the new one unless they were damaged by whatever damaged the tank in the first place.
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Too bad your in MA, I am in NY, if you need help PM me and I will give you a call to talk you through it. OBTW, I have not had much luck with aftermarket tanks, plastic seems to be too brittle for cold weather use. I usually go for clean used OEM over new AM plastic parts.
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Too bad your in MA, I am in NY, if you need help PM me and I will give you a call to talk you through it. OBTW, I have not had much luck with aftermarket tanks, plastic seems to be too brittle for cold weather use. I usually go for clean used OEM over new AM plastic parts.
Thanks for the help and the offer to walk me through over the phone. Hopefully it won't come to that but it gives me the confidence to try knowing that I have friends on this site who are willing to help a newbie! I am replacing it with a used OEM tank so I am expecting the fit to be as good as factory.
I'll probably start the swap on Sunday if we don't get too buried with snow!
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No problem, that is what this site is all about.
You will only need a few tools to do the job. If you have the SM it has a list of those that are needed. Most of the work can be completed using only a 4mm Allen key, a 'T' handle works best.
You do not need to remove the starter to do the job however you will need to remove the bar/chain and the top handle. The hardest part is getting the rear AV spring off the old tank. Husqvarna makes a tool for this but a small diameter drift and a small plastic mallet works fine.
It is much easier to replace the fuel line/filter and the tank vent when the tank is off the saw so do these two jobs on your new tank before trying to install it.
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Well, we in western NY are up to our azz in snow! I imagine the same in your area. How did you come out on replacing your tank/handle unit?
Or did you, like me waste the entire weekend moving snow?
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Saturday was the last day of our shotgun deer season so I went out hunting. Sunday was spent moving snow all day. I am hoping to work on it one night this week after work.
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How was your luck on Saturday?
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No luck... Thought they'd be moving with the storm coming but I didn't pick up a fresh track until the afternoon. Finally got a look at one of the two but it was a doe. Looking forward to ML season now....
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Since you will have the saw apart, you might consider replacing your piston rings. Breathe a little new life into the old girl. If you provide an email address I will send you the 365/372 shop manual to help you long.
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Since you will have the saw apart, you might consider replacing your piston rings. Breathe a little new life into the old girl. If you provide an email address I will send you the 365/372 shop manual to help you long.
Cut4fun provided a link for the manual which I have printed out; thanks anyway. The saw was purchased as being reconditioned; new cylinder, piston, rings, etc. My only problem (so far; fingers crossed) is the tank leaking. It runs great and has very good compression. I would like to work on the tank tonight, but it looks like I'll be moving snow again tonight when I get home. :(
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Well, how did it go?
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+1 for follow up.
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I haven't done it yet.... :(
Been slacking....went hunting instead then spent time around the holidays with the family. I'm going to try it this weekend. Sorry for the lack of update....
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I'm all about FAMILY 1st and hunting etc. 8)
It's just a chainsaw, it will wait if you can wait. ;)
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It can wait, but now that my hunting season is over, wood cutting takes a higher priority so I'll have to get on it sooner than later!
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Just an update; finally found the time to swap the tank out today. Got it done in about a 1/2 hour. Everything is back together and ready to make some chips!
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GREAT that you were able to get the saw repaired! Welcome to the world of chainsaw repair. You now have experience and knowledge you can share with others here or people who have/will make your acquaintance.
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Just an update; finally found the time to swap the tank out today. Got it done in about a 1/2 hour. Everything is back together and ready to make some chips!
Next time someone wants to replace their 362, 365Special, 371XP, or 372XP or XT gas tank, we expect you to jump in there and tell them how to do it?
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Yup! Thanks for the help here and I will do my best to share my experience when possible. Pass it forward!
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Well - New problem! I finally had a chance to run the saw yesterday for the first time since I replaced the tank. I had an oak I wanted to dice up. Got her running and proceeded to cut the log up into 2' lengths. Saw was running good, cutting strong....perfect!
Then, it died.... >:(
It died like it was suddenly turned off. Well, my motto is always go back to the last thing you fooled with and see if that's the problem. When replacing the tank I had to swap the kill switch so I fooled around with that. Seemed OK.... Still suspecting ignition, I decided to pull the plug to see if I got any spark.
The plug wire was really warm and was all soft and squishy. This is what happened when I pulled it:
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/DeerMeadowFarm/Farm%20stuff/002_zps60f405b6.jpg)
Well, I think I found the problem! Now, do you think this is just a POS plug wire, or do you think something else is going on to get it all hot like that? How big of a deal is it to replace a plug wire?
Thanks!
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Not a big deal to replace a plug wire. You will have to remove the starter and coil to do it, then reset the coil to flywheel gap. IIRC gap should be 0.3mm a business card will get you close. Not unusual for plug wires to cook up a bit if they come in contact with the cylinder, that is what the insulation tube in your picture is for.
OMO but it looks like the plug wire has been changed before, the plug boot does not look to be factory. It is hard to see but it also appears that the plug clip was not properly attached to the wire. Look at the attached picture. When HVA attaches the clip to the wire they punch a hole through the wire, then insert the bent end of the clip through the wire and close the bend against the wire.
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then reset the coil to flywheel gap.
Huh? Now I'm really lost.... :(
I am sure that this is not the factory part. I think it's a Chinese replacement part....
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It is no big deal about ten minutes start to finish. You remove the starter and the air director or fan shroud (gray plastic). Coil is to your left with the rear handle to your right. Coil is a black plastic covered box, you can't miss it, it has the plug wire sticking out of its top. There are two 4mm socket head machine screws that hold the coil, remove them coil comes out.
After repairing/replacing the plug wire, you put the coil back but don't completely tighten the screws coil needs to be free to move. Slip a business card between the coil and the flywheel, rotate the flywheel until the magnets pull the coil to the flywheel trapping the business card, tighten the screws, remove the business card, your done. Put the saw back together!
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Does the wire unplug from the coil end? Would I even need to remove the coil?
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Yes the plug wire is removable from the coil. The plug wire has a little rubber boot that you slide up the plug wire. Then the wire will unscrew from the coil. The coil has a little inverted screw that the plug wire screws on to. The inverted screw is part of the coil and is neither visible nor removable. You trim the new plug wire to be flat eg cut squarely across then put the boot on the wire, slide it up the wire to give yourself room to work. Then insert the wire into the hole firmly and turn it clockwise to screw it on to the inverted screw. Get the wire in the hole such that the inverted screw will screw into the center conductor of the plug wire. Push the boot back down and you are done. It is kind of tight working when the coil is on the saw, that is why I suggested removing it.
Besides, you would then know how to set the coil air gap along with how to replace a tank! ::)
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True.....
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Can I buy a quality replacement wire? Should I try to reattach the boot I have?
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You can buy a wire with the boot already attached here:
http://www.hlsproparts.com/Spark-plug-wire-with-cap-p/h45000.htm
The big $4, looks like the one that was on it, save the piece of insulation tube and put it on the new wire. Here is a picture of te coil so you know what you are looking for when you remove the starter:
http://www.hlsproparts.com/Husqvarna-replacement-coil-fits-many-models-p/h45365.htm
Cheers
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Thanks for the help, once again!
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There are two magnets embedded in the flywheel on the same side, there are two poles on the coil, make sure that you ger the two magnets on the flywheel centered (one in line with each pole on the coil) before you tighten the coil bck down. A little blue Loc-Tite on the screws helps to keep the thing from coming loose.
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Well....wire swap is not going as planned. I'm not sure that this on screws in:
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/DeerMeadowFarm/Farm%20stuff/001_zpsf6e5c9c6.jpg)
What now?
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Buy a new one, that one looks to be in pretty bad shape.
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Crap....
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Well....wire swap is not going as planned. I'm not sure that this on screws in:
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b73/DeerMeadowFarm/Farm%20stuff/001_zpsf6e5c9c6.jpg)
What now?
Sometimes, the wire is glued in and you can not get it out of the coil. There's a little white piece that is missing from this coil. You need to start over with another coil and wire.