Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: alsled on December 12, 2013, 07:09:52 pm

Title: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: alsled on December 12, 2013, 07:09:52 pm
Anybody ever play with one of these?

http://www.hlsproparts.com/Husqvarna-395-395XP-Big-Bore-cylinder-assembly-p/h30395-b.htm
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on December 12, 2013, 07:57:16 pm
They work pretty well on a 395 but will not work on your 394 unless you buy the factory parts for a 395 intake tract. Around 65-85$. However HLS is out of the conversion kit and his been for about 3 months!
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: alsled on December 12, 2013, 08:02:04 pm
Who makes that kit Tim?  And does it take 1.5 or 1.2 mm rings, just wondering.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: 660magnum on December 12, 2013, 08:34:09 pm
Every time I think 394, I think of the one I ran that had a "404" rim with 3/8" chain and bar. When you started in a cut, you would feel a big snap and a rough feeling. The saw actually performed very well considering the mismatch. It was soon corrected when brought to the attention of the owner who had recently bought the chainsaw.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on December 12, 2013, 08:37:15 pm
IIRC the kit is from Hyway and it uses 2 x 1.2mm rings. HLS gives you the part numbers for the intake tract, you could check prices with your local Husky dealer or Spike60 on this site.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: 660magnum on December 12, 2013, 08:41:24 pm
Good information
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on December 12, 2013, 09:14:50 pm
Doing the 395BB kit will get you to around 100cc.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: alsled on December 13, 2013, 05:30:44 am
I'll have to look and see if Caber makes 58 x 1.2 mm rings
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: neil on December 13, 2013, 06:33:36 am
They work pretty well on a 395 but will not work on your 394 unless you buy the factory parts for a 395 intake tract. Around 65-85$. However HLS is out of the conversion kit and his been for about 3 months!

Its not hard to convert a 394 to 395 but some other things need to happen as well.
Apart from the boot connecting carbie to cylinder, you also need the black plastic square bit to fit the 395 boot (to seal behind the cylinder.)
Other alterations are, the 394 throttle cable pokes through a small hole under the carbie, it needs the hole enlarged to let the cable come through and fit into the new arm on the boot. If you simply hook up the cable as is, it will pull off the plastic holder on the butterfly lever as its a little wide to line up straight.
Next problem is the 394 walbro won't work until it is externally pulsed on top and a tube run down onto the cylinder base.
Do these simple things and a conversion can be done for the better, you can also use the Tilly from a 395 which is already externally pulsed. Hope this makes sense as I have converted all my 394 racers to 95's but they all run 56mm  Mahle cylinders.
One last thing on BB kits for the 95, I have tested a few now and the rings are no good, I don't think Caber can supply better quality rings, all kits I tested had ring failures after not many hours work.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: alsled on December 13, 2013, 10:29:42 am
That's why I was looking for the thickness on the bb ring to see if I could find cabers.   Does stihl have a 58 m&m piston?  What's stihl rings thickness.
Title: Re: 394 / 395 Big Bore?
Post by: neil on December 13, 2013, 03:11:00 pm
That's why I was looking for the thickness on the bb ring to see if I could find cabers.   Does stihl have a 58 m&m piston?  What's stihl rings thickness.

I know Mako has a 58mm kit for the 066 etc, but I am guessing the rings will be the same.
To be honest I would not bother with a BB kit and just run the standard 56mm cylinder, simple with replacements rings etc and they go ok and if you start doing them up they go really good.
I forgot to mention, the aftermarket kits ive seen do not have a barbed pulse tube like the Mahle ones, these are just a little piece of alloy pipe poked into a hole and I found unless you use the proper black pulse line it will come off when the saw gets hot and stop the saw dead. I have tried different types of tube including the yellow clear stuff but it come off.