Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: man of stihl on May 07, 2011, 04:43:50 pm

Title: Stihl 025 250
Post by: man of stihl on May 07, 2011, 04:43:50 pm
I bought this non running 025 today. Its got good compression at 150 PSI. Its in excellent shape. The fuel line is rotted out and i have a new one on the way. Has anybody ran one of these saws? I was just wondering if they are good little saws or are they junk? I already see i dont like the carb, for it has a non adjustable H setting.  >:(
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on May 07, 2011, 06:09:04 pm
My brother bought one new (before I got into saws and could have hooked him up) in either MS250 or 025 not sure and loves it for his homeowner trimming duties.  I think they are 45cc, clamshell design.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Al Smith on May 07, 2011, 06:44:53 pm
I have no personal experiance with them . A lot of people rave about them though .

On that though I seldom work on any Stihl consumer saws .They will not hold up to tree service work because I have a box full of clam shell parts from 029 and 039's that just couldn't cut the mustard .Trimmers are rough on saws . On the other hand they weren't designed for that kind of service .
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: bloodontheice on May 07, 2011, 10:12:41 pm
An adjustable Walbro WT215 for this saw is about 30$
They are good for what they are, and if you do a muffler mod it's a nice little saw.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: man of stihl on May 08, 2011, 08:01:29 am
An adjustable Walbro WT215 for this saw is about 30$
They are good for what they are, and if you do a muffler mod it's a nice little saw.
Thanks for the adjustable carb info. I will definitely buy one of those.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: man of stihl on May 14, 2011, 05:51:25 pm
I got the fuel line installed in my 025 yesterday. I think it runs pretty good for only 45cc. I cant embed youtube anymore for some reason. >:(  http://youtu.be/YRMyDIo9wNQ

From 2nd =  this part ( =youtu.be)  delete  ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRMyDIo9wNQ&feature
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on June 19, 2014, 01:58:50 pm
Had a stihl 025 dropped off.  Guy said no hurry he just got a new stihl 261 over winter, Christmas present from son I think he said.

Complaints were,  black oily residue getting all over crankcase front and under muffler area.  Black oily residue on the outside clutch cover area.

He couldnt tell me if it was burned mix or bar oil. 

Saw is clean as a pin now so I need to test and see whats going on.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 19, 2014, 02:27:42 pm
I have a 025 and a MS250 I use for limbing situations.

I tend to like the 025 a little better.

They are .325 X .063.

The 025 has RS chain and the MS 250 has RM chain.

They both have twin needle carbs and muffler mods.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 19, 2014, 04:23:26 pm
Never seen this before. Almost like the plastic crankcase is worm out.  First I noticed the drum had alot of movement.  That would move the whole motor, not like a worn drum or clutch bearing.
So I checked the 4 crankcase clamshell bolts and made sure they were tight.  Then check AV's and made sure they were good. Then went under recoil and noticed the flywheel did same thing and was making contact with coil at times.
I was thinking crank bearings till I paid close attention. The whole motor is moving up and down not the crankshaft crankbearings. I could watch the tight clam shell bolts moving up down alot with the whole motor in the plastic crankcase.

To me it looks like it needs another crankcase to fix this?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 19, 2014, 08:01:03 pm
Huztl wants $59 on Ebay
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 19, 2014, 08:07:52 pm
Huztl wants $59 on Ebay

Thats over the 50-60 budget for saw he allowed.   He has a new MS261 to use so he is not worried.

So I would say it will run till it poops.

Had 140psi still. 

So Jim did you check your 025 and was rock solid there like we thought?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on June 19, 2014, 08:30:03 pm
I really like the MS 250 I had a 025 also but sold it

Motors are not hard to work

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/H2H_PHOTOS/MS%20250/003.jpg)

That is a extra motor I got from a tree service that ran a MS 250 over with the service truck I've had that motor now three years and haven't used it

That's why I own two MS 250

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/H2H_PHOTOS/MS%20250/DSC_9345.jpg)

I've changed the carbs to WT215 on both and you can feel the differences
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on June 19, 2014, 08:33:20 pm
I have a 025 and a MS250 I use for limbing situations.

I tend to like the 025 a little better.

They are .325 X .063.

The 025 has RS chain and the MS 250 has RM chain.

They both have twin needle carbs and muffler mods.

One of my MS 250 I have a Carlton skip chain (.325) kinda dangerous but for bucking it is sweet but not for limbing
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 19, 2014, 08:37:01 pm
I really like the MS 250 I had a 025 also but sold it

Motors are not hard to work


That is a extra motor I got from a tree service that ran a MS 250 over with the service truck I've had that motor now three years and haven't used it

That's why I own two MS 250


I've changed the carbs to WT215 on both and you can feel the differences

Motor runs cuts great.  Have you ever seen a 025 etc plastic crankcase wear out? Something has to be worn to create that much play.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 19, 2014, 08:46:32 pm
Huztl wants $59 on Ebay

Thats over the 50-60 budget for saw he allowed.   He has a new MS261 to use so he is not worried.

So I would say it will run till it poops.

Had 140psi still. 

So Jim did you check your 025 and was rock solid there like we thought?

My 025 and MS250 were solid as a rock
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on June 20, 2014, 12:51:16 am
I have never worked on one of these before but is there some kind of steel bushing that is in the plastic where the crankcase bolts go through?   Are the bushings there and not missing?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: jmester on June 20, 2014, 06:43:43 am
Yes there are 4 metal bushings molded in the case. Can't figure how the engine moves around when the bolts are tight. For the bolt pull the engine down into the case and hold it tight.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on June 20, 2014, 08:03:09 am
I think Roger may be on to something with the bushings in the case. Are the bushings moving around in the case? The bolts could be tight against the bushings but the bushings themselves may be moving in the plastic case. With age and exposure to UV some plastics shrink, like old 192Ts where the press fit oil pump will not stay in position in the case. I don't mean get tighter around something but shrink away from press fit hardware.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Fish on June 20, 2014, 09:21:53 am
Yes, I have had to tap out those bushings on an older saw, and grind a little off of the top.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on June 20, 2014, 09:48:03 am
++1 GMTA, hey John how you doing?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 20, 2014, 01:59:00 pm
Yes there are 4 metal bushings molded in the case. Can't figure how the engine moves around when the bolts are tight. For the bolt pull the engine down into the case and hold it tight.

Thats what I am wondering too. The motor can move up and down. Bolts can be seen moving out with gap between case and bolt head. 

The only thing I can come up with since I cant tear it down now. When I first checked the 4 clamshell bolts they were a hair loose. Just wonder if that little play over years of use had worn the case to allow this movement.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on June 20, 2014, 02:04:47 pm
I really like the MS 250 I had a 025 also but sold it

Motors are not hard to work


That is a extra motor I got from a tree service that ran a MS 250 over with the service truck I've had that motor now three years and haven't used it

That's why I own two MS 250


I've changed the carbs to WT215 on both and you can feel the differences

Motor runs cuts great.  Have you ever seen a 025 etc plastic crankcase wear out? Something has to be worn to create that much play.

No; I only had a 025 for about a year and a half and I didn't have any problems with that motor and it was a older saw

I couldn't tell any difference between 025 and 250

There for a while I was getting alot of straight gassed MS 250 and I got a few from a tree service that changed over to a different Stihl saw for there ground crews. I think it's around 25 MS 250 I've had and flipped and only one 025

I flip alot of saws that's how I make my pocket money :)

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 20, 2014, 03:18:42 pm
I had to know. Tore it down with owners ok for look see. 

The plastic crankcase has worn to the point the metal inserts even when bolts tight  are allowing the motor to slide up and down.  I think this is what fish was saying?

Are you saying I can take some off of the metal inserts and still use with worn plastic case? 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 20, 2014, 03:49:26 pm
Owner said he got this 025 in 1991 at M&M's and has cut lots of firewood. Sharing duties with his later purchased  MS390.

Carb had H side too.  8)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on June 20, 2014, 03:51:25 pm
I believe that is what Fish was telling you, just make sure that you do not take so much off the inserts that the bolts will not tighten up. You might also want to glue the inserts in with JB.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 20, 2014, 04:02:20 pm
By now the cradle for the clamshell engine has been wallowed out and the chance of this fix having any longevity is slim.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 20, 2014, 04:08:35 pm
I have never worked on one of these before but is there some kind of steel bushing that is in the plastic where the crankcase bolts go through?   Are the bushings there and not missing?
Yes there are 4 metal bushings molded in the case.
I think Roger may be on to something with the bushings in the case. Are the bushings moving around in the case? The bolts could be tight against the bushings but the bushings themselves may be moving in the plastic case. With age and exposure to UV some plastics shrink, like old 192Ts where the press fit oil pump will not stay in position in the case. I don't mean get tighter around something but shrink away from press fit hardware.
Yes, I have had to tap out those bushings on an older saw, and grind a little off of the top.

Yes 4 metal bushings in pic left side of crankcase.

If molded in these are way past staying in.

Appears worn  both sides and hole  as all 4 metal inserts just fell out. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 20, 2014, 04:18:08 pm
By now the cradle for the clamshell engine has been wallowed out and the chance of this fix having any longevity is slim.

Somebody else will have to find out ( as I have no interest in putting it back together now that owner said no go).  He has a new MS261.

Me I would get another crankcase to be safe. But I see how they say it can be Rednecked.   
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on June 21, 2014, 11:34:05 am
Owner just left after checking out the saw.  025 parts is staying with me as we worked out a trade on the good parts left.   
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on June 21, 2014, 12:02:34 pm
Was the 025 even being sold in 91? All I can find is 93.  Said he was at a demo show when he got it from a dealer in Ohio.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2014, 12:22:08 pm
Found the info in stihls timeline. 

This is one early 025.

1991 Production of model 025 chain saw and FE 55 begins in Virginia Beach.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 21, 2014, 12:24:55 pm
Acres is not always correct?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2014, 02:54:55 pm
Acres is not always correct?

Hadnt even checked Acres site yet.  Thanks for reminding me though.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2014, 02:56:51 pm
Yep Jim that site even says 1993.   ;)   http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/29a1f3ed9712e4fc88256dee005c9b22?OpenDocument
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2014, 03:21:26 pm
Being a early 025 with H and L fully adjustable carb I thought I would see what they used.

Zama C1Q on side and   S11E  12R on mount side.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2014, 10:52:43 pm
Something else I noticed today. The Zama carb was made in Japan, not China like now days. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 21, 2014, 11:40:14 pm
". . .  Since ZAMA's start in Japan in 1952 . . . "
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 26, 2014, 02:23:09 pm
I knew I had a pic of that stihl 025 when it came in 2011. Same way it looked before pulling apart.

JFYI the saw was already spoke for last week. So no more need for pm's asking about it.

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP325/3450390025003.jpg)





Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 26, 2014, 10:10:48 pm
Well, it has a MS250 case complete with flippy caps on it now. It is not all together for it is waiting on a couple small parts.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 27, 2014, 03:25:36 pm
Well, it has a MS250 case complete with flippy caps on it now. It is not all together for it is waiting on a couple small parts.

So did you go with new or used oem or aftermarket?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: farmboy on June 27, 2014, 05:21:23 pm
I picked up an 021 looked like it had been under a tree for years.  Did simple MM was impressed that little thing would run.  It had a WT215 on it.  Traded it for some work.  Almost sorry I traded it.
Shep
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 27, 2014, 05:26:32 pm
They are very likable.

+1 on the WT-215 & MM
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 29, 2014, 01:23:38 pm
Well, it has a MS250 case complete with flippy caps on it now. It is not all together for it is waiting on a couple small parts.

So did you go with new or used oem or aftermarket?

Above plus any update?  Did it need sealer at clamshell or not?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 29, 2014, 03:16:20 pm
Long story. . .

New OEM MS250 plastic crankcase! Was a take-off where someone bought a new MS250 and sold the parts.

The pan was eaten up as bad as the plastic crankcase so I decided on a new pan, seals, and a tube of Derko for a long term fix.

The spring tip on the worm where it goes in the notch on the clutch bell was worn in two and the worm threads worn right where the pump gear rides on it was real thin. We're only talking about 1/4" of one thread that does all the work. The pump couldn't have been working?

The new worm is made different and doesn't have the washer on the end of it. You have to buy a separate metal washer to cover the clutch mechanism.

Later 025's and all MS250's have the brake mechanism made different and there's a spring holding pin missing from the later cases inside the chamber that holds the chain brake mechanicals. You have to buy a leaf spring as a replacement that serves to hold the brake handle flag up when the brake is off.

This saw was run with a rusted out muffler and burned up the top cover. The 025 has a replacement top cover - still older but newer than the original one that would have had a riveted on metal "025" name plate. The current top cover has a plastic name plane that just snaps on.

There is a bur inside the right hand muffler retaining nut that keeps the nut from going more than fully on the muffler retaining screw. It will not tighten against the muffler. This caused the muffler gasket to burn up on that side. As a result, the heat shield is all distorted. I'll need a new flanged 5m X .8 nut for that side. As a result of the muffler being loose, the exhaust flange on the cylinder was all pocked up. I dressed it with a 12" flat draw file and it looks pretty good now.

The lower right AV buffer was split but the new crankcase had a new buffer in it.

On the replacement top cover, the front buffer in the original 025 donor saw was either busted or missing and the top cover rubbed on the top buffer holding ring of the original crankcase. This wear point is all intermingled with pine rosin.

The muffler is a right new MS250 muffler that has now been muffler modded.

The new crankcase came with a new fuel line and filter as well as the flippy caps.

I made up a new tank vent with some Tygon from Glenn's and the original grub screws from the original vent. I tested the new vent with the Mity Vac and the vent functions like the workshop manual says it should.

All that from a 025 that looked right nice when it came into the shop?

Anyway, it will look nice once again when I get all the parts here and get the saw together.

It will  look like my other Stihl's of this family.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 29, 2014, 03:32:13 pm
I measured the bore on this early 025 and it was 42mm as expected.

I measured the bore on my other (later) 025 and it was 42.5mm just like a MS250.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on June 29, 2014, 10:30:09 pm
I measured the bore on this early 025 and it was 42mm as expected.

I measured the bore on my other (later) 025 and it was 42.5mm just like a MS250.


I believe the MS 250 are 45 cc

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 30, 2014, 01:49:06 am
Yes, the last of the 025's and the MS250's are 45.4cc and have a 42.5mm bore & 32mm stroke

The early 025's had a 42mm bore and the 32mm stroke gave them 44.3cc
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 30, 2014, 09:11:59 am
He never said anything about ever replacing the top cover. But who knows what all happened from 1991 to 2011. 

Only person I know that used to buy the new MS250 - MS290 and part them out was Fish.

I ran into that updated stuff not working ( clutch side too) on a early 034 compared to later 034. Stuff I was buying for 034 wasnt fitting on the early 034. Finally I think it was Cale bloodontheice pointed out I had a early 034.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 30, 2014, 10:34:36 am
It'll be fine once the parts get here.

There's at least a half dozen guys in addition to Fish that buy new Stihl stuff and part it out on Ebay.

I had a choice of two different guys to get the new tank assembly from.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 30, 2014, 09:30:51 pm
Well, today was going to be the day that the parts came in.

They did . . .

But Stihl back-ordered the engine pan. They leave you hanging, It's back ordered (infinity?) No one knows until when?

So I ordered a used one off Ebay.

I worked on what I had, on finishing the brake mechanism. I installed the leaf spring I ordered and assembled all the brake parts and installed the brake over-center mechanism cover.

Then I moved to the other side and the starter side of the brake lever. The original fastening bushings were gone with something out of a junk box in their place that obviously wasn't correct. Well, the new correct bushing didn't fit even as good. I compared the lever with my other 025 and MS250 and the lever is different in that area.

So I ordered a nice used current style lever from Ebay. Can not wait a couple days on Stihl to find out it is on back order and then have to source one from Ebay anyway..

When the used lever comes in, I get to take all the brake mechanicals apart again, big spring and all, to put in the new style lever.

This is a old 1991 saw. Though it didn't see a tremendous amount of use as a homeowner firewood chainsaw, It has been apart a few times for various reasons.

I fitted all the oil pump drive and clutch parts as a trial fit. This design as been changed over the years and it now has all MS250 parts in that area and they all fit up correctly. The brake band grabs the clutch and releases so the clutch is free as a bird. I get to take all this apart again when the engine pan and seals come in.

The nuts for holding the muffler down did not match. The bolts did but the nuts did not. I bought new proper 5mm flange nuts from the bolt bins at the hardware store.

The nuts that hold the carburetor do not match either. No doubt there's been some fuel lines put in it and I know the top cover is not original. Someone even put a new pull cord in the starter. It was done proper.

If I was fixing this saw for someone, I would go broke trying to make everything correct. A lot of the deferred items would have to be put back like the 025 came in and not clean anything? Now it is all clean . . . its mine. What's there looks very nice.

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 30, 2014, 10:30:14 pm
Jim this might not be good to say. But M&M sold and serviced that saw till 2011.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on June 30, 2014, 11:09:33 pm
That's about the time that Tim the service guy left?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on July 02, 2014, 04:03:51 am
Yes, the last of the 025's and the MS250's are 45.4cc and have a 42.5mm bore & 32mm stroke

The early 025's had a 42mm bore and the 32mm stroke gave them 44.3cc

Brain fart

I should have went and read what it said on the box of the piston for the MS 250 before I posted anything

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/H2H_PHOTOS/MS%20250/DSC_7601.jpg)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 02, 2014, 08:56:23 am
I generally like the Meteor pistons. I have several chainsaws with Meteors.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 01:52:20 pm
I have the 1991 Stihl 025 back together.

It is a tight, nice looking, chainsaw.

I spun up a new 62 DL Stihl .325" X .063" X 16" RSC chain for it. It has a new Stihl, made in Germany 16" Rollamatic bar.

Admittedly, there is not much from the year 1991 left? The engine cylinder, clutch spider, Starter assembly, top handle, nuts, and screws. It has a flat style air filter but it is not the first style that was part of the filter cover. I didn't put a new clutch cover on it but the one that came on it is probably a newer one for it looks nicer than the ones on my other late 025 or my MS 250. I declare it a Frankensaw for it is an accumulation of parts from many different years.

I had the clamshell engine assembly apart and put another MS250 pan and Stihl seals on the cylinder. Someone had been there before me for there were scratch marks where someone had removed the Dirko before. There were even little pieces of Yamabond, so it may have been apart twice before?

What would you expect of a 1991 firewood saw that was used on occasion for 23 years?

Even though it was mostly made in USA, it is a German design. I don't consider this a beginning repairman's easy saw to repair. I got it as a bunch of parts in a box and thought about reassembly some and did some trial fit togethers while waiting on parts. It almost has to be put together in a precise order. I was pretty confident of myself until I discovered that it was easier to get a new current brake handle for it rather than use the original burned up one that the new pivot parts for the starter side would not work on. To change the brake handle, I had to remove the starter cover, clutch cover, top chain rub strip, brake cover, brake mechanism, Muffler, etc. and pry for all I was worth to get the old handle out. Then put it all back together.

Due to the basic fact that this chainsaw should be re-assembled in a precise order not documented in the Service Manual, I consider it to be the most difficult chainsaw I've ever worked on. I suppose the 029/039 Stihls are little different? I had a mini Mac 10 and a Homelite 150XL for long periods but I never worked on them.

So the first order of reassembly is to mount the oil pump and pick up line. Then the coil must be mounted so you can run the coil high voltage wire through a little trough. Then the switch assembly wires must be laid in this same trough so when you mount the clamshell engine inside the crankcase/tank assembly these wires will be outside the plastic shield that goes over the intake side of the engine. The coil wires are very difficult to get past the shield with it already mounted and you can not get the boot up to the spark plug with the top cover mounted. Then the brake handle/brake mechanism must be mounted. The top cover has to be installed before the top handle for part of the cover circles around the top AV buffer of the top handle. The spark plug is best left for last. The starter assembly can be removed/replaced from a complete saw but it is a really tight fit up under the top cover. It has to be pried and snapped into position.

Something I happened to notice is that the MS250 starter assembly has much more cooling than the 025 starter assembly. The inside starter mechanism is the same.

The difference in the way this 44.3 cc 025 runs and my 45.4 cc MS250 runs is not discernible by ear. Maybe by a stop watch while cutting wood? This 025 and my other one and my MS 250 have .325 X 7 tooth spur sprocket clutch bells.

There's another MS250 engine pan,new seals, a new brake handle, oil pump worm, one new buffer, and Walbro WT-215 carb on it besides the bar and crankcase/tank assembly.

Running the saw, it is a prolific oiler with the new un-modified bar and new pump and pickup and drive parts in the new MS250 crankcase/tank assembly.
 
Though the top cover/rear handle is old, it is not 1991 old. The only scratches on the top cover are underneath in the front by the AV buffer.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 04, 2014, 02:08:05 pm
You have way more patience then me Jim. Glad you wanted  the project.  Any pics?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 05:08:20 pm
I told you it was a nice looking saw
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 04, 2014, 05:46:18 pm
Nice job Jim.  She looks sweet.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 05:55:00 pm
It has a 1991 Mahle cylinder in it rather than a Stihl cylinder. It runs nice for a 44.3cc 16" saw.  It sounds alive and peppy.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Rookie1 on July 04, 2014, 07:47:24 pm
I cleaned a filthy 025 up and put a 18" bar with 3/8 lopro and like the way it runs and cuts.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 07:52:31 pm
The 025 and MS250 are the biggest displacement of that series of saws. The 021, 023 are also good runners of the same series.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 04, 2014, 09:47:30 pm
I cleaned a filthy 025 up and put a 18" bar with 3/8 lopro and like the way it runs and cuts.

Hey Welcome. You the guy from NE Ohio that used to go to GTG's with Andrew?

If so I know your full of knowledge, if you like share up where you can.  Matter fact if  you, you were into the 031's and knew them real good too if I remember.

I've had 3 025 250 come through my hands on trades and you notice Jim owns all 3 of them. He really like those little guys.
Sort of how I like my lighter but less power 3900 I used again today to take down a cherry tree. Thought about not selling as I went for it and used again today.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 09:55:00 pm
The Walbro WT-215 for these from the Stihl dealers are $22.47 including the governor's share around here.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 04, 2014, 10:03:30 pm
The Walbro WT-215 for these from the Stihl dealers are $22.47 including the governor's share around here.

Did you try that zama that was on it with H and L. Seemed to run fine with it.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 04, 2014, 10:22:23 pm
The WT-215 is 1 mm bigger than the C1Q-S11E

http://www.zamacarb.com/carburetors/257

http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/product2.asp?partnum=WT-215-1&Series=WT
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: H 2 H on July 05, 2014, 12:22:58 am
I've went back and fourth with both carbs and I like WT-215 better

I have WT-215 on both of mine MS 250 now
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on July 05, 2014, 01:11:01 am
The saw looks great Jim.   I would not have known it was a basket project. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 05, 2014, 01:25:32 am
Cut4fun disassembled it on his favorite workbench. A couple days later, I came along with a empty USPS Priority box and some baggies to gather up the pieces to take home. I ordered parts the next morning and started cleaning. The exterior of the parts were already clean as in all the pictures. It was the never seen insides, only seen after complete disassembly, that were dirty. The carburetor and air filter were clean as new when I got them. I didn't clean the old tank assembly as I wasn't planning on using it.

So the chainsaw was not in the basket very long.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 05, 2014, 10:55:47 am
The saw looks great Jim.   I would not have known it was a basket project. 

What Jim started with.

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=274.0;attach=7149;image

I'm just not into these ones so I pass them on to folks.

I had a 029 or 029 super I tore down once. I traded it to a guy for a homemade T-post puller. Best trade I ever made. Love that heavy duty puller and gets used every year.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on July 05, 2014, 02:20:21 pm
Kevin post a picture of that T- post puller.   I might be in need of one and could maybe duplicate what you have.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 05, 2014, 02:31:04 pm
Kevin post a picture of that T- post puller.   I might be in need of one and could maybe duplicate what you have.

It's perfect let me tell ya. Guy was a metal worker type too. Between you and me somewhere from the old racesaws days.

Will go get some now.

Roger pics in t post thread in welding board.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 09, 2014, 12:40:02 am
I'm declaring this 1991 Stihl 025 project done . . . It runs like a champ.

It was a great experience setting under the old sugar maple on pretty days working on this chainsaw while it was on the tailgate of my truck.

Naturally, the shop cat had to help me but after a few rubies, he would fall asleep across my feet. Unfortunately, the saw has cat hair stuck in the oily parts. 

It was a pleasure to get this old 1991 saw going. Only thing is there is not much of it that dates back to 1991 any more except the cylinder and maybe the crankshaft?

Stihl MS250 parts interchange onto the 025 for the most part and you can get the MS250 parts from Stihl. However, some of my parts came from Ebay.

http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=274.0;attach=7254;image
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on July 09, 2014, 12:49:25 am
The saw looks real good.   

I just met a guy who had a truck full of firewood and got to talking with him and found out he has a 026 that quit running for him a couple of years ago.   So  I offered to take a look for him.
A carb rebuild and it is back up and running.   I checked it in some wood and not a bad running little saw.   
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 09, 2014, 01:08:54 am
;D

Good running 026 or 026 PRO saws are real sweet hearts.

It would be unusual for one to win a cookie cutting contest against a 346XP but they have a excellent feel about them out in the woods.

I really like my 026 PRO. I think it came to Cut4fun's shop with a galled piston? It sure runs good now after he fixed it up. I think he put another cylinder on it too?

I took the 20" X .325 bar off and put a new 3/8" x 16" Stihl Rollomatic E bar and RS chain. I shortened the like new 20" X .325 Stihl RS chain to 62 DL and put it on the 025.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on July 09, 2014, 01:13:42 am
I believe this one is a 026 pro.  I was kind of checking it out to see what kind of modifications could be done to it, if the opportunity happen to come up.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 09, 2014, 01:18:53 am
A regular one runs as good as a PRO but the PRO has a clutch bell driven oil pump and the oiler is adjustable. The PRO also has a compression release.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: man of stihl on July 09, 2014, 06:57:21 am
Looks real good Jim!
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 10, 2014, 10:42:42 pm
Something I observed disassembling the engine of these 025's & MS250's is that this 1991 Stihl 025, the big bearing on the rod has full compliment rollers with no cage like is on the MS250. I don't know if that is good or bad?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Fish on July 12, 2014, 09:04:49 am
Also one needs to be aware that there was a 42mm piston, then they made it a 42.5mm
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 12, 2014, 10:21:46 am
Fish,

I bet you have had a lot of this family of Stihls apart and could tell us a few things about them?

This particular 42mm bore engine really runs good. Of course my other two 42.5 engines run good too. It is that this engine is no slouch just because it is the older version. Maybe it is because it has the WT-215 Walbro carburetor?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Fish on July 12, 2014, 05:02:27 pm
I believe that there was an older coil and flywheel, but I would bet on the Walbro, they have always made a good carb.
I don't think that I will ever be a big Zama fan....
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 12, 2014, 08:16:20 pm
There's at least two different coils in these.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 21, 2014, 08:38:25 pm
I've been using this 025 saw. I've been encountering difficulty also.

The ignition was missing and intermittent. You know that the original situation with the saw was that the engine unit was loose and jiggling around in the case. The flywheel was hitting the coil. Also the coil wire wasn't routed correctly and the cooling shields had almost cut the plug wire in two. You could see the bare wire. Up inside the spark plug boot, there was some kind of deterioration or oxidation. It was like full of black powder up in there between the boot and the wire. So I put a new coil and wires in the saw. This wasn't easy to do for I had to take the top cover loose except for the buffer on the front and pry for all I was worth between that plastic shield on the intake side of the engine unit and plastic crankcase to get all the wires through a little channel right above the coil so the wires will be on the operator side of the plastic shield. If you do not do this the air flow shield extension on the starter cover will try to cut the wires in two.

I've had trouble with the pull starter coming apart. Something caught and when I jerked on the cord a second time, I pulled the knot in the cord through the handle. Wasn't too bad for the knot caught on the bushing of the starter cover. I cut the knot off - rethreaded the cord up through the handle and tied a fatter knot in the cord.
A couple times later I went to start the saw, it sounded like a 22 rifle shot and the starter would not grab the flywheel.  I took out the starter and the pawl fell off onto the ground. I found the little spring clip hair pin pulley retainer on the ground also. With these parts off the pulley I observed that the post for the pulley on this early starter housing was only like 12mm in diameter whereas the hole in the newer style pulley was some 16mm. You could wobble the pulley all around. There is a raised area on the pulley that fits around a raised area of the flywheel to shield the pawl mechanism from wood debris. But the shield part was worn off on one side of the starter pulley even though it had been recently replaced. Now remember this is the saw with the engine originally jumping up and down inside it. I re-installed the damaged pawl, stainless washer, and pulley retainer clip and started the saw.

Thinking later and pricing the parts I would need, it was cheaper to get another starter assembly. For there wasn't anything any good about the old starter except the spring. It would work but not reliably. The old 1991 025 now has a MS 250 starter assembly. Nothing left of the original chainsaw except the cylinder, flywheel, and crankshaft?

It sure starts, runs, and cuts good now. It has taken a awful lot of parts to make this saw reliable over time by me and the original owner.

Makes you want to think about staying away from another project saw this old?
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on September 11, 2014, 01:33:12 pm
I decided to take a used MS250 clamshell engine assembly and "freshen" it up to have on hand for I have three of these series of saws.

I bought a complete bare engine from Custom Chainsaw Parts on Ebay for $45. The ad said "Good Condition" and they had a 99.8% feed back.

I was thinking that it likely wasn't perfect but I could put seals in it and use it?

I received the engine and it was "as removed from the chainsaw". (Dirty) It had decent compression. The piston looked perfect and almost new on the exhaust side but I looked down the intake boot and the intake side of the piston was as smooth as a baby's behind and there were no machine marks. The crank bearings were very rough with dried crud. Goes to show one that most ads on Ebay are somewhat embellished and the product is never as good as claimed. The bottom line . . . I had a good cylinder. The price I paid was OK for a good cylinder.

So then I decided to put a Meteor piston and rings in the engine as well as seals. As I removed the pan from the engine it was obvious the bearings were rough and the engine was all dried up and had not been run in years. The PTO bearing fell towards the seal which meant it was loose on the crankshaft. Not a good sign. The crank was not galled. I used a bearing clamp and puller on the flywheel side and removed that bearing. So I tried the flywheel side bearing on the PTO side and it was tight and wouldn't start on. So I was thinking that the bearing was of poor tolerance. The bearings were made in Turkey. One seal was not a Stihl brand but the other one was. But here I was without new bearings. I happened to remember I had a set of Husqvarna 372XP bearings and sure enough they were the same size as the MS250 bearings. The old seals were as hard as Kelsey's nuts. But overall, it appears the engine had been repaired to some extent at one time? It had Dirko on the joint between the cylinder and the pan. Someone had done a nice conservative job of applying it also. The cylinder wall was like glass and perfectly smooth.

I heated the new bearings to 350F in the wife's oven and dropped them in place on the crank. The flywheel seal slid right in place but I had to jockey the clutch side seal over the shoulder. You push the seal against the crankshaft and then push the slack side over the shoulder. Then you push the seal the opposite direction and jockey the other side over the shoulder. The bearings fit tight against the counter weights but the seals stand away from the bearings a couple mm. The seals fit in a lipped pocket in the crankcase.

The wrist pin clips were a PITA to get into place with my numb fingers but I got the job done without loosing one. I rolled the rings on the piston. You cannot use a ring compressor to install the piston for the cylinder wall is recessed up in the cylinder. But there are guide ramps for the rings. Get the rings aligned with the locating pins on the piston and everything square and ease the assembly into place.

I had previously used 320 grit wet or dry paper on a pane of glass to level off the pan cap and the bottom of the cylinder. The pan cap was more warped than the cylinder but not off very much. So I applied a very thin coat of Dirko, let dry for a few minutes, and put the pan on. I had a extra set of bolts and the metal bushings from a old case assembly to hold the cap in place until I get ready to use the engine.

That's it - ready to go.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on September 11, 2014, 09:44:45 pm
Well it sounds like all turned out well.  Great job and how did like the meteor piston.
Are you sure those Husky bearing are going to like being in a Stihl crankcase.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on September 11, 2014, 10:30:24 pm
So far I've only bought Meteor pistons for my chainsaw escapades. They have all had the non-eared wrist pin retaining rings.

This Meteor piston was bought from HLS and the USPS tried its best to ruin the piston Plus USPS took the piston on a national excursion to Minot North Dakota from Miami and then to Cleveland and eventually here. The box was rolled into a ball. The wrist pin bearing was squashed flat with the needles all loose out of the cage. HLS sent me a new bearing and it came directly here no problem. I measured the piston every way and could not see anything wrong with it despite the shipping box damage.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 3000 FPS on September 11, 2014, 10:41:36 pm
When you run it let me know what you think.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on September 11, 2014, 11:33:04 pm
Last year, in the early spring, I used a Meteor in a Dolmar 115i and another Meteor in a Dolmar 6800i. Both have run perfect. I bought the pistons from the Israeli.

With the 115i, it free ported about .010" but the saw ran fine.

I bought a couple single ring Meteor pistons for Husqvarna 372's last summer, also from Israel, but have not used them yet. I did fit them in the cylinders and everything seemed OK.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on September 17, 2014, 03:13:13 pm
1991 Stihl 025

This is the saw from previous posts. Hardly anything is 1991 about it anymore except the cylinder and crankshaft. The engine was rebuilt at sometime in the past. Most everything else except the top cover and filter cover is MS250. To see it setting on the tailgate of the truck, it is a 025 with a MS 250 tank and starter assembly. Most everything else is not 1991 era including the 025 top and filter covers or the air filter. The carburetor is also a Walbro WT-215 which is larger than the original Zama.

I used it some today. I used my MS 250 Monday.

This older 025 certainly holds its own with the MS 250 in spite of the smaller bore. It is a very healthy running 44cc chainsaw. A real joy to use. As to which of the three saws I have, to use one, it would depend more on how sharp the chain was and how much gas and oil was in which chainsaw.

If you've used some of the Chinese produced home owner saws in Homelite, McCulloch, and Poulan style brands, The Stihl 025/MS250 series of saws really shine if they are tuned up correctly in spite of them being a plastic body, clamshell style, home owner class chainsaw.

The fact that little of the original chainsaw remains, goes to show how a long term use firewood chainsaw can be kept up as long as reasonable care and parts are available. The Stihl 025 came out in 1991 and its updated brethren, the MS250 was last made early this year. So the saga went on for 23 years.

I have several older Stihls most of which are 2000 or newer. In rebuilding some of them, it is no more expensive than rebuilding a box store Chinese made yard device.
Title: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 29, 2015, 01:59:22 pm
Had a stihl 025 dropped off.

Complaint is. Once it is hot from cutting and he refuels. Wont start or very hard to start, almost like flooded he thinks.

Whatcha think?  Going to see if I can get it to do it before I start. I was thinking the tank vent but who knows right now. Tank vent wouldnt make act flooded I wouldnt think. Plus he never pulled plug to confirm anything like wet plug.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 29, 2015, 02:03:16 pm
The 025 just has the grub screw in the piece of fuel line for a vent? It only restricts but does not stop air flow into or out of the tank
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 29, 2015, 02:10:28 pm
The 026 just has the grub screw in the piece of fuel line for a vent? It only restricts but does not stop air flow into or out of the tank

Yep 2 grubs is all. Thats all I checked before heading back in.

Need to check and see if any foreign junk may be blocking anything.  She was pretty nasty under the cover.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 29, 2015, 02:55:53 pm
I've seen the vent side of the metering valve packed with saw dust
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 29, 2015, 03:24:36 pm
Hey Jim in my haste I goofed up 025. Went out to start it and was like hmmmm 025 LOL. I am betting carb adjustments fix this.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 29, 2015, 04:00:50 pm
The impulse line on the 025/MS250 is sometimes somewhat critical. It is hard to see up under the poly air shield. But it will almost slip off the spud up under the boot and will cause the impulse to alternate between OK and bad. Almost need a hemostat to reach under there. The hose is better about staying on the crankcase but there is more heat on that end and the rubber will get hard.

Keep in mind that the spark plug and switch wire from the coil fit in through a little square slot just above the coil in that polyethylene heat shield. If the plug wire is brought up along the coil side of the heat shield and crossed over the shield to the spark plug near the top - the heat shield will wear the insulation off th plug wire where it crosses the heat shield.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 29, 2015, 04:13:14 pm
Thanks for tips Jim. I smiled when I seen what it was.  Because I know who the local 025 250 guru is.  ;)

Just surprised in my haste I thought I seen 026 instead of 025 and still didnt catch it when I in a hurry popped air filter cover for quick look.  Oh well lesson learned to slow down.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 29, 2015, 04:22:22 pm
I make that mistake too
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: wisecobandit on March 29, 2015, 04:44:49 pm
Funnily enough I rebuilt an 0125 and 230 today with new bearings and seals on 1 the other needed a replacement case due to being run lots on concrete and worn thru the oil tank!

I always replace the impulse line with the common use 3.1mm I/d stihl fuel/impulse line. An extra few inches in length makes the world of difference when refitting.

If its a "c" model that has the fuel bulb also double check that but sounds like a minor blockage or slightly lean on the L as you both say.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on March 29, 2015, 05:10:35 pm
That reminds me I need to order some more echo black 3mm x 5mm and  3mm x 6mm fuel lines to use for impulse lines.


Thanks.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: wisecobandit on March 30, 2015, 01:45:41 pm
The stihl stuff can also be used for fuel and impulse lines on Husqvarna saws like the 357/372 etc hence why I tend to buy it in 5mtr lengths  ;) ;)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 30, 2015, 03:00:36 pm
I have a three foot length of Dolmar Impulse line. Seems to work fine on the different saws I've used it on? It is not rubber and it is not silicone either.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 30, 2015, 05:35:33 pm
OK 025 gurus

Adjusted carb L and I. No H side.

Starts fine cold. Get it hot running temps. Shut down start right back up fine. But if you let it set 5mins it acts flooded. So I checked 2 different plugs and yep she gets wet.  Also notice mix wanting and coming past grub for tank vent line.
So I check PSI 120.  I think this is part of the trouble right there.

So I try drop start with throttle pulled wot when it wouldnt start normally after hot. She fires right up. 

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 30, 2015, 06:30:37 pm
The needle and seat of the metering valve may have some dust in it and not holding well.

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 30, 2015, 08:03:52 pm
The needle and seat of the metering valve may may have some dust in it and not holding well.



Thanks you forgot about that.  Pulling carb next. Wish I had a good H L one on hand.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on March 30, 2015, 08:29:15 pm
You can test how well the needle & seat holds as well as the integrity of the pump diaphragm by checking if the fuel inlet on the carb will hold 7 lbs pressure with your 6800 Mity-Vac
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on April 02, 2015, 01:02:05 pm
Jim I am going to try that carb you gave me that was known good when pulled off.

You know I was thinking last night. I had a 029 come in with this problem before too. I changed everything in carb and fuel still got by seat.  Thinking something in the carb must have been worn ( like the needle seat area). Put another carb on and the bypass flooding stopped.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on April 02, 2015, 03:27:31 pm
Can not see anything wrong with needle or seat area on old bad carb.  Put new used carb on and that fixed it. 

Made up a new tank vent out of tygon being the old one was split at bottom area.

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on April 02, 2015, 03:39:41 pm
Remember to tell the guy about the compression situation when he comes?

I think that is one of the greatest saws that ever was for the casual user.

For example - Look at how you were able to repair the tank vent.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on April 11, 2015, 01:46:54 pm
Jim did any of those older 025 you got from me have 2 piece mufflers? 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on April 11, 2015, 01:53:50 pm
I am not going to rebuild this as I am not into these as I have said many times. If anyone is interested in doing so. PM trades or for price.  No clutch cover and front of muffler cover appears modded and missing deflector.

Scored piston in pic #2

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Projects/h1813216%20012_zpseobcku5m.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Projects/h1813216%20012_zpseobcku5m.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Projects/h1813216%20010_zps08yrlg73.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Projects/h1813216%20010_zps08yrlg73.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on April 14, 2015, 01:13:05 pm
Jim did any of those older 025 you got from me have 2 piece mufflers?

Somewhere along the later production of 025's the two piece muffler was changed over to the crimped design. Comparing my two piece and one piece crimped flange mufflers, the dog house is the same other than being captive in the later crimped design.

Looking at 025/MS250 used mufflers on Ebay, there are several iterations of how the outlet hole(s) (is)are cut under the outer front cover. I go in and make it one big hole as big as the depression anyway.

The main advantage of the two piece (non crimped) muffler over the newer style muffler is that you can get the dog house out of the two piece muffler and open up the holes. With the crimped muffler you have to reach in on the engine side of the muffler to open up the dog house holes.

The main advantage of the one piece muffler is that if you let the muffler get loose, the muffler doesn't come apart at the seam and burn a hole in your oil tank.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on April 14, 2015, 01:16:57 pm
That early flat air filter is hard to come by? The current ones set in a 90 degree adapter and all you see is what looks like a small loaf of bread for a filter.
That's the airfilter they sell now. There were two different ones before that one. One is flat and fastens up against the carb with those aluminum barrel screws. And the very first one fastened in the cover.

There's no reason you cannot use the present day filter. But if there is nothing at all on the carb, you will have to buy the 90 degree elbow too which HLS also sells.
You get a lot more RPM with that nylon mesh filter than with the flocked version that HLS sells.

Oversize stud repair for stihl 025 250 = 1123 664 2405

Copy paste stihl tech info below.

If the Standard Collar Screw is part #1127 664 2400, DG 8 thread, use Oversize Collar Screw part # 1127 664 2410, DG 9 thread, for 1127 series saws such as MS 290, MS 390
Installation:
If the thread has been stripped, the damaged mounting hole in the engine housing already has the required diameter (approx. 8 mm) and does not
need to be drilled out. Coat the DG 9 thread of the new collar screw with Red LOCKTITE 262, or equivalent and apply it squarely to the bar mounting face.
Use an 8 mm stud puller to install the collar screw into the engine housing and tighten down to a torque of 16 Nm.

If the Standard Collar Screw is 1123 664 2400, DG 8, use Oversize Collar Screw 1123 664 2405, DG 9, for 1123 series saws (021, 023, 025, MS 210, MS 250). It will also work on the 1130 (MS 170, MS180), and 1132 (MS 191T)
install same as above.

An oversize collar screw, part number 1115 664 2405, is available for alloy housings that have been stripped. The damaged hole will need to be drilled out to 8.5 mm (0.335 or letter drill Q) and rethreaded with a 10 mm by 1.5 pitch tap. Coat the threads with Red LOCKTITE 262, or equivalent, and install with the stud remover or use the double nut method. This collar screw is for the 3003 bar mount.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on October 20, 2016, 01:18:31 pm
Just got what looks like a older stihl 025 in with weird deeper darker orange covers.  Will get a pic later.

 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 04:43:07 pm
Compliant was smoking.

Found the bar tip was smoked and the chain was running beside the sprocket tip it self.

Also the oil tank plug missing from under the right side muffler area.

Reading up on making a plug without blocking the outlet hole to bar oil area.

copy paste info finding

Its suppose to have some sort of plug , I'm not sure what it looks like. I just made my own plug. But you dont want it to long cause it will block off the oil passage to were it oils the bar.

It looks like its suppose to be molded in with it . Doesn't look like its really suppose to come out. 

Just thread in a fine thread set screw in it

plug it

This is the pressure side, not a tank vent. Very short threaded plug with a dab of loctite

Yes, but no need for loctite. Thread in a very short grub screw. Too long and it will block the exit hole. An exact part from Stihl is the 090 vent grub screw.. 0000 951 5815 -25 cents MSRP.
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 04:49:20 pm
Found the grub screw is sold in a tank vent kit.  https://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2070

Replacement tank vent for Stihl models 08S, 070, 090, 090G. Includes grub screw.

Replaces OEM: 1108 350 5800 and 0000 951 5815  00009515815
 
(https://northwoodsaw.com/store/include/plugins/plugin_rollover_images.php?pimg=2070&w=75&h=75)


Thinking a 1/4" grub screw will work too.

(http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/eJAAAOxyCGNTNbdS/s-l225.jpg)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 05:44:04 pm
I thought. Heck make my own Redneck. Found a bolt cut both ends off, cut to length and made a screwdriver slot on end. Done ;)
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 06:28:25 pm
Ordered new bar and chain 325 063 62dl and new clutch drum plus bearing.  Otherwise pretty solid older 025. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 06:45:29 pm
Pics missing. Will take pic of my rednecked plug tomorrow or later.

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 20, 2016, 07:19:01 pm
Thanks to the inside stihlman.  ;)

The real plug fix with part number

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on October 21, 2016, 12:45:29 pm
stihl plug fix 9134 381 1230  91343811230 M 6 x 8 grub screw and red loctite
Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: Cut4fun on October 21, 2016, 02:52:54 pm
I made my own plug yesterday with a bolt and hacksaw. 2 cuts and then slotted. Red loctite too as mention on stihl  pic fix.

Just checked and she oils again with no leaks.

Title: Re: Stihl 025
Post by: 660magnum on July 08, 2017, 07:51:26 pm
today was 025 / MS 250 day for me. Had a MS 250 that wouldn't hit a lick on July 3 rd. I found the fuel line off the carburetor. Put it back together and it fired right up.

I had accumulated some MS 250 parts the last couple years and I have a nice clean 025 with the bigger bore MS 250 engine in it. I decided to swap a MS 250 Handle/cover, starter assembly, and tank onto it and make it all MS 250. Running a Walbro WT-215 carb, it works out easier to use a 025 tank vent setup rather than the EPA contraption fitted to a MS 250.

I got reminded of the sequence of assembly/disassembly of one of these. On assembly, the coil goes in first and the top handle goes on last! Also when fitting the handle assembly, how difficult it is to get the impulse line on the airbox bulkhead and to fit the top front buffer in place. I remembered how the coil ground wires went and though it took some time, it all eventually was together as a MS 250.

I like these for light limbing and pruning duty in spite of them being more difficult to work on than a Husky 372.
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 29, 2018, 04:40:21 pm
Super nice homeowner use 025 came in while I was out having lunch. I was left a message not running right.
I went to pull it over and could tell right away wasnt right.
Missing clutch bearing for one. Couldnt even find a piece of it. Clutch coming apart. 2 retainers missing and found parts of one mostly. Some pieces bedded into the plastic case. I like how the worm gear wire piece is up under a retainer that was left. Hoping the oil pump isnt hurt, can see some rash there too.

Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 30, 2018, 10:18:55 am
 I see it here. There was no big washer on this one behind clutch on the 025. 250 shows the washer here.

https://youtu.be/Gj9mmtyROu0
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 30, 2018, 10:54:37 am
Folks in the chainsaw repair group said the oiler isnt going to work since the case had been chewed up in that area.

 I can see what your talking about now comparing pics. The bottom of oiler has been exposed where the case was chewed up by drum and retainers etc.

 Saved a pic of the 250 in video for ref.

Redneck fix by Jeff Yeo =  You can take out the oil pump and stick a rubber fuel line up inside there and then JB Weld or use some epoxy where its exposing the oil pump let it dry and pull out fuel line Ive done this to several ms250



Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 30, 2018, 12:15:29 pm
They nailed it.   
Well had to run out and check closer. 😥 Thanks guys for the great info on how it sealed the pump in the housing. After cleaning more can even see a hole where parts of retainer dug in. Now to tell owner about this and going to try the redneck fix first.



Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun on October 02, 2018, 11:40:30 am
Going to try what a member of CRG has done in past.  Otherwise I dont think they will put the money in it for a case swap.

 has the 4mm bolt for elbow connector.

rednecked fix hoping it works for them.

11211621001

Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 04, 2018, 09:38:16 am
 Looks good. Going to have to grind where the connector goes flush with o-ring on the plastic case.
The case was cut through and had to JB both sides. Still waiting on a couple parts that didnt come in yet anyways.

 update = Looks good going through where pump goes. Trying to grind the area where the connector goes as I had to build that back up too. Where a piece of metal came through.



Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: 660magnum on October 05, 2018, 01:31:06 am
I have a good 025 tank assembly if you need it
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 05, 2018, 08:22:51 am
I have a good 025 tank assembly if you need it

Thanks for heads up Jim. 
Going to see if this redneck idea the guy gave me works or not. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: 3000 FPS on October 05, 2018, 09:25:04 pm
I have a good 025 tank assembly if you need it

Thanks for heads up Jim. 
Going to see if this redneck idea the guy gave me works or not. 

I am somewhat curious too.
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 07, 2018, 11:50:30 am
Redneck case fix worked.
I want to think everyone that helped me learn this redneck trick in the chainsaw repair group. 

I upgraded him to a 325 rim set up while I was replacing the parts that was tore up.   

Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: 3000 FPS on October 07, 2018, 11:55:17 am
That was a pretty good trick.   I would not of thought to use tygon fuel line as a mold for the JB weld. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on October 07, 2018, 11:57:06 am
That was a pretty good trick.   I would not of thought to use tygon fuel line as a mold for the JB weld. 

Most of the guys say they just use a pump to mold around.  I didnt trust trying that just in case. 
Title: Re: Stihl 025 250
Post by: Cut4fun . on November 05, 2019, 02:42:50 pm
stihl 250 wasnt to bad. Surprised. 

But cant tell till recoil is fixed to see if hidden issues.  Pulley, pawls, clip washer etc.