Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: The Ripper on December 21, 2013, 05:48:45 pm
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Need to replace bar on the PP5020,sprocket keeps locking up and it it wobbles some. What would be a good bar replacement in the 18"range?
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You need a 3/8 pitch K095 mount bar such as an Oregon Double Guard, Oregon ProAm, or Oregon ProLite. When searching for a bar, look one up for a Husqvarna 450 Rancher with 3/8 pitch chain. Unlike most newer Poulans, your saw does NOT take an A041 or K041 mount bar.
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You can visit the parts look up feature on the Oregon website and see some options. Better (longer lasting) bars generally cost more!
For your saw, you should generally find good deals on bar and chain combination packages at retailers or from catalog vendors, which sometimes don't cost much more than the bar itself. However, I would stick with a name brand (and avoid The Home Depot's house brand).
Philbert
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-BAR-Chain-Fit-Husqvarna-55-Rancher-455-Rancher-261-357xp-359-362XP-460-/370968321301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565f6f5d15
I have had good luck with these and you can't beat it for the price. i recieved mine very quick but i am in the same state. This link is for a 20" but this seller has more in different sizes,pitches,gauges....all for pretty decent prices
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Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll most likely go with prolite 18". Dose anyone know if the PP5020 would cut better with a .325 pitch?
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I've personally never ran a hard-nose bar...but I've heard good things about them. Any thoughts out there?
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More friction with a solid nose bar, means less effective cutting power. Usually reserved for really dirty work that would be hard on a nose sprocket bearing.
Philbert
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Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll most likely go with prolite 18". Dose anyone know if the PP5020 would cut better with a .325 pitch?
As long as you keep your chains good and sharp, I do not think you will tell the difference between .325 and .375
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Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll most likely go with prolite 18". Dose anyone know if the PP5020 would cut better with a .325 pitch?
As long as you keep your chains good and sharp, I do not think you will tell the difference between .325 and .375
Agree Sharp chain is the key wish I could get that through my SIL's head.
Shep
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Thanks for all the suggestions,I'll most likely go with prolite 18". Dose anyone know if the PP5020 would cut better with a .325 pitch?
As long as you keep your chains good and sharp, I do not think you will tell the difference between .325 and .375
Agree Sharp chain is the key wish I could get that through my SIL's head.
Shep
I did some square grinding on some of my .325 and .375 chains and those .325 chains cut pretty fast.
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I've squared up some small cutter .325's for others but have not squared any full size .325 chains.
Only .325's I have are on Stihl 025/MS 250 saws with the .325 RS X .063 chains. They do OK as round. Thought I might square up one when it gets worn down?
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I've squared up some small cutter .325's for others but have not squared any full size .325 chains.
Only .325's I have are on Stihl 025/MS 250 saws with the .325 RS X .063 chains. They do OK as round. Thought I might square up one when it gets worn down?
I run the squared .325 on one of my 335 Poulans. I love the way that saw performs.
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Square will cut faster no doubt about that .Then comes the some to sharpen it .That isn't so fast unless you have a square grinder .
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Square will cut faster no doubt about that .Then comes the some to sharpen it .That isn't so fast unless you have a square grinder .
Yes I have a square grinder and the chain does not stay sharp as long but I love the way it cuts so I put up with the short comings.
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With the exception of maybe 6 or 8 race chains I think I have 3 or 4 square ground loops which I seldom use unless it's a green tree .A regular 20" loop of round chisel I can refile in about 5 minutes more or less .The same in square I would be lucky to refile in 45 .To me square isn't worth the effort .
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Well I always have one or two spare chains with me and an extra saw with spare chains for it also. So I do not break out with files when in the woods. To be truthful I only do a small amount of filing and usually grind my chains if it is round or square. I will wait till I have 3 or 4 chains to do and then go at it.
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When you are filing out in the woods, it seems to be taking up a lot of time. About 10 years ago I went to the woods with my wife and two grown grand daughters as helpers. Took a extra chain with me too. The wood was dry small blow downs from the previous couple spring ice storm. Chains didn't stay sharp for toot. I couldn't keep the women busy. Spent all my time with the file. I guess I needed a filing jig and put one of the women sharpening the spare chain? Or I just sharpen chains and let the wife run the chainsaw? She does OK with a under 50cc chainsaw. That wood was surprisingly bad on chains.
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More friction with a solid nose bar, means less effective cutting power. Usually reserved for really dirty work that would be hard on a nose sprocket bearing.
Philbert
Thanks Philbert, just wonderin'...never really considered running one of these, but hey, you never know! Thanks again.
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Thanks for all opinions on B&C choices.