Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Echo => Topic started by: maclean on December 23, 2013, 07:50:53 pm
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I'm stumped. I just returned a CS 400 to HD because after approx. 4 hours use the saw would act as if it were bogging down in a deep cut if I revved it even when not cutting. Picked up a new saw, and just fired it up and it does exactly the same thing (right out of the box, no use at all) as the saw I returned. I took off the bar and chain and the saw will rev fine, though with the bar and chain on it bogs, won't rev, and the chain barely spins. Any ideas? I do get an odd kind of rattle noise out of it. Thanks for you thoughts.
P.S. - the chain break isn't on, there is plenty of bar oil coming out, and I can spin the chain manually, though there is a bit of resistance. The sprocket, with the chain off, spins freely. I've also backed off the chain tension to be sure it wasn't too tight. It is about as loose as I can get it without it hanging down from the bar. The only thing I can think of is a problem with the clutch, though I don't know how those things work.
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Could be clutch springs?
Not usually something on new saws, but if there is a quality thing, it could affect a batch of saws like you noted.
Just a guess. Or the carb settings could be really messed up? Low idle adjust?
Philbert
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If it was a problem with the clutch springs it would be a matter of them being too tight, right? Not letting the clutch engage? If that were the problem I would expect the engine to rev but to not get anything in the way of saw chain movement, but when I rev it it sounds like it bogs down, the chain tries to move, though does a pretty poor job of it.
I would like to keep the saw, and if it were something I could fix I would, though as it stands looks like I will have to take this one back too. And, according to the HD guy, they aren't getting anymore cs 400s in for awhile. At least I got some wood in with the other one I guess. I bought the Echo over the others because it was supposed to be reliable . . .
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Why don't you take the bar and chain off the power head and see how the chain runs around the bar and how the tip sprocket turns?
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Doesn't seem to be a problem with the chain moving around the bar (no binding) except when I try to get the engine to do it. Tip sprocket is good.
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There may be a mismatch between the chain and the sprocket or rim on the clutch?
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You need to pull the limiter caps and adjust the carb richer both high and low, adjust the low so it accelerates good and the high open up about 1 1/2 turns then back in until it cuts the fastest in big wood.. The Cs400 is a really nice saw when adjusted right and really rips with a muff modd. Steve
Just to make sure open the high up 1 1/2 turns more than what it's set at and then back in until it cuts the fastest not revs the fastest. Most time the high ends up at 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 out from the seat. Steve
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You need to pull the limiter caps and adjust the carb richer both high and low, adjust the low so it accelerates good and the high open up about 1 1/2 turns then back in until it cuts the fastest in big wood.. The Cs400 is a really nice saw when adjusted right and really rips with a muff modd. Steve
I was thinking that the carb was a more likely culprit after doing some research. I don't know if this would make much of a difference, though I am up around 3,000 ft, and I think the carbs are factory adjusted for lower. The manual says I shouldn't adjust the carb until the saw has gone through two tanks of gas. Any reason why I shouldn't adjust now when the saw has only ran for about 15 minutes? Thanks for the responses. I'll mess around with the carb and see if I can get it to run at higher rpms. Probably should have bought at a full service chainsaw dealer . . .
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I think the 3000 ft in elevation is your real problem, saw is probably running way too rich, fuel/air mix.
If the tuning of the saw was set for sea level and you are at 3000 feet of elevation you definitely should ignore the manual and tune the saw for your elevation! The the fuel/air mix needs to be adjusted if your location elevation changes as little as 500ft sometimes even less! Once you hav it running right for your elevation then go back to what the manual and do what it says!
HD is a good place but an Echo dealer would have made sure the saw was tuned for your altitude!
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I really like my CS400.
I bought mine through a servicing dealer (same price as H D) in case I had problems. I asked to take it home in a sealed box and it was well adjusted from the factory.
Yours is still under warranty.
Did you try any carb adjustments within the limits allowed?
Philbert
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Really appreciate everyone offering up suggestions. Fired up the saw, got it warmed up, flashed the choke, set low carb adjustment between upper and lower limit and high is all the way over to the CCW position. Will probably need to make further adjustments, though will need to get a better grasp of how to fine tune the settings. Saw revs nicely and chain rips around. Love the smell of 2 stroke exhaust on a cold morning! Merry Christmas to everyone.
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Glad you got it worked out.
Philbert
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So m I! Two saws with the same problem from new is a problem! Perhaps you should suggest to HD that they tune the saws before purchase.............ha,ha,ha as if they would even entertain the thought! However the local HD probably does have a local outfit that does that sort of stuff for them.
In the long run you are better off here where you can learn to do most anything to keep your saw running its' best! Glad to see that you came here for help, that is what the site is for.
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Yep, I'm glad I found this forum. Typically I just search through and read threads on whatever forum pops up from my search, though this worked out real well (I had a hard time finding anyone with similar complaints, which is weird as plenty of people buy chainsaws at elevations above 3,000). Anyway, I look forward to keeping my saw running well with good information from this site. Thanks again. At some point I might know enough to be able to help someone else out and "pay it forward."
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It's for sure best to tune yourself as a lot of dealers won't pull the caps and tune a lot are incompetent to get it right. Steve
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Only other thing that needs to be mentioned is there is a screen in the exhaust outlet. If the engine is running rich, that screen may plug and then none of the carb adjustments will take. If you can use the saw without the screen for right now it might help you get it sorted. Pull the screen and put it in the top tray of your tool box so it wont get misplaced.
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I use the wire screen from a kitchen sieve or stainer for new spark screen material.