Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: rockfishon on December 30, 2013, 01:27:26 pm
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I am a new member here. I did some searching but couldn't find any discussions on this topic in detail. I have an old 3450 with a leaking tank. I have purchased a used tank / handle from a 3750. It looks like the carb is attached to the top of the handle assembly. Will I need any new gaskets? How difficult is it to replace? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
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Poulan 3450 3750 IPL http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulan3450-3750chainsaw.pdf
Where are you leaking gas on old tank? The tank vents are known for falling out. Inside top left between crankcase tank.
Straight forward replacement. Just be careful pulling your carb not to tear old gasket between carb and flange. Slide off and reuse.
Inspect your impulse line, fuel line and intake boot for cracks etc.
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Info if tank vent leaking.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-330-and-poulan-3450/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-330/
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First off...............your original leaking tank is probably just leaking at the vent. The vent assembly on those consists of a sintered bronze 'filter plug' that fits into the side of the tank near the top, and a 'duckbill' check valve that's underneath that plug. Best way to get the old plug out (if it hasn't fallen out on its own) is to drill a small hole in the center of it and pull it out with a self-tapping screw. A replacement 530038264 plug is less than a dollar, and the 530026119 duckbill is around $3. Both available through/from any Poulan/Husqvarna parts outlet..............including your local Husky dealer.
If the tank is actually leaking from somewhere other than the vent assembly or the fuel line and you DO have to replace it, then the only gasket you need is the carb mounting gasket 530069891. Goes between the carburetor and the metal plate that seats against the flange end of the intake boot. They're 'sandwiched together by two long studs.
It's a bit tricky threading the two kill switch wires and the impulse hose (get a new hose while you're in there.............best thing to use is a length of BLACK Echo/Stihl/etc fuel line of the correct ID.......don't use Tygon) through the hole under the intake boot. Be sure to take your time getting everything lined up right without punching/tearing a hole in the intake boot.
Don't tear the rubber AV buffers between the fuel tank and the crankcase either. They have plastic expansion plugs that insert into them (with screws that thread into those to expand them). You remove the screws, pry/pull out the plastic expansion plugs, and then reach into the rubber buffers with a hex wrench and unscrew the screws that attach them to the fuel tank. If you're not careful the metal washers that are bonded to the rubber buffers will tear away......................and you'll need new buffers. Mine were both shot when I got my PP330, so I ordered and installed new ones.
Edit:
Looks like Cut4Fun posted two more efficient, less wordy posts while I was typing. ;D
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Pretty sure my tank is **** where it is ultrasonic welded together. It will completely drain when sitting flat. I will definitely check those suggested lines while I am at it. I will also check the vent just to make sure as well. I will post some pics of the swap as I go when I get it back together. Hopefully it won't take too long to do. Thanks for the informative replies!
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Looks like Cut4Fun posted two more efficient, less wordy posts while I was typing. ;D
But your post contains so much great info. I'm just brief to get them on the right track.
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Yup.great overview Aaron. You should write procedure manuals.
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Try seal all on a seam cracks too. http://eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm
I have used it many times even on oil tank crack on plastic. Still holding.
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Thanks guys.8)
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I have found the best way to separate the tank and handle from the rest of the saw is to first.
Remove all covers including the starter assembly.
Remove the black plugs covering the antivibe. Then remove all the screws in the antivibe holding the handle and tank to the main part of the saw where the cylinder sits.
Make sure to loosen the clamp that holds the rubber boot from carb onto the cylinder.
Take the handle bar off.
Take the wires loose for the stop switch so that they can be fished through when you separate the handle from the cylinder.
Take the Impulse line loose at the cylinder.
Install in reverse order.
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OK, sorry for the long delay. I finally replaced the handle assembly. The steps were exactly as posted. If I were to do it again:
- Don't misplace the replacement tank assembly - it will take a long time to find
- The black expansion covers are hard to remove. It is only the very top part that pops out.
- The saw will not run without the choke if you don't attach the pulse line
- The hose clamp on the pulse line will not be there if you forget to connect it
Thanks again everyone for the great help! Now I have to figure out the carb, which will be another post.
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OK, sorry for the long delay. I finally replaced the handle assembly. The steps were exactly as posted. If I were to do it again:
- Don't misplace the replacement tank assembly - it will take a long time to find
- The black expansion covers are hard to remove. It is only the very top part that pops out.
- The saw will not run without the choke if you don't attach the pulse line
- The hose clamp on the pulse line will not be there if you forget to connect it
Thanks again everyone for the great help! Now I have to figure out the carb, which will be another post.
Good deal. Nice to read about closure. Folks helping each other out to learn to do it themselves too.
What is this? = The black expansion covers are hard to remove. It is only the very top part that pops out.
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Kevin I believe he's referring to the plastic plugs that pop inside of the conical rubber AV buffers at the bottom of the saw. They're locked in place with the screws that thread into them. They can be a bit reluctant to pop out. I found persuading new conical rubber AV mounts to snap into the crankcase holes to be a far more challenging task than getting the plastic plugs out....
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Good to hear you are making progress.