Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Chain - Bars - Grinders - Filing => Topic started by: jmester on January 30, 2014, 08:56:42 pm
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(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image-22.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image-22.jpg.html)
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(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image-21.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image-21.jpg.html)
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Feedback from them?
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The blue one is the PFRED dressing tool, works well on most husky and Oregon bars. The second one is the Stihl dressing tool, it works well for your stihl and cannon bars. As they are a harder bar IMO. And the bigger teeth spacing on the PFRED does a great job on softer metal. And the closer teeth spacing does a great job on you harder bars. The part number for the stihl 5605 773 4400 the part number for stihl replacement file 5605 773 4200. For those who don't know what these are for, they can be use to resquare your bar rails and remove the burrs of the edge of the rail.
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I prefer the stihl dressing tool for it cuts the bars a lot better then the PFRED. Plus I like the longer flat to help make sure you are at 90*. The only down fall is the stihl is a bit more money but I think it is worth it. I have seen that Oregon also is making one as well have not used one, but look similar to the PFRED.
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I always used a file. But I got a good deal on the Oregon one and tried it. It works very nice and helps hold the 90 degree edge.
'Nice-to-have', but not 'need-to-have'. Might still want a bar ground if it is really messed up.
BTW, I believe that these filing guides were originally developed for the edges on downhill skis, so you may find a used one cheap at a ski swap event.
Philbert
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I agree with you on that a really messed up bar, grinding is the way to go,if you have one. You can true the bar quick with a grinder and get great results. Thought I would share these for they don't cost near, what a bar rail grinder does. and with some time and elbow grease you can get the same results as a grinder. I guess you have to use what you got.
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I have a PFERD unit from my skiing tool kit. I cut a couple of different grade files for it. The one that comes with it is a bit aggressive. I tend to work through the file grades like sandpaper going from rough to smooth.
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I've been using a scythe sharpening stone from Norton to dress my bars
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Consumer-87715-Alundum-Scythestone/dp/B000M2YI18
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That's a very interesting stone.
Thanks.
Philbert
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Does the one in your ski kit look like the one above? If it does is there any part numbers on the other files that you have.
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Does the one in your ski kit look like the one above? If it does is there any part numbers on the other files that you have.
I couldnt find any pfred.
Did find 2 ski kits. Just so I could see them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RaceWax-Ski-Wax-Tune-Tuning-Basic-Starter-Kit-/231023570113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ca13ecc1
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dakine-Snowboarding-Deluxe-Tune-Kit-Snowboard-Ski-Tune-Servicing-Kit-/181300792672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a365e8d60
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I have seen that Oregon also is making one as well have not used one, but look similar to the PFRED.
my mistake the Oregon one looks like the stihl one and has 2 different files that can be used with it one fine and one course.
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Not what I thought they would look like.
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jm the oregon bar rail dresser is probably made for stihl and their specs. Made in Germany too
Oregon bar rail dresser.
Replacement files:
111589 fine
111588 coarse
(https://www.chainsdirect.co.uk/763-thickbox/oregon-bar-rail-dresser.jpg)
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Here is the one Northwood Saw sells for $24 http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1059
Looks like a no name stihl and oregon one.
(http://northwoodsaw.com/store/images/products/large_1059_bardresserg.jpg)
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I think you are right, in that case I would recommend the Oregon one or the one from northwood. Would assume they are cheaper and you will get the same results.
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I may have to get that one from Northwood. I have the pferd.
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Only thing about the Northwood one. Dont list which file included and dont list replacement files in coarse or fine. Least I couldn't locate them.
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I don't think you will be disappointed with. I really like the stihl one I have over the PFRED. Also the directions that came with the stihl has a pic of when you are removing the burrs from the side of the rails to hold it at an angle not at 90* will post the pic if I can find it.
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The files that come with the Oregon one should work fine I would think.
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(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image-23.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image-23.jpg.html)
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Oregon part numbers for bar rail dresser 111439. The files are part numbers for the coarse 111588 and for the fine 111589. Only problem I see is that they are only available in six packs, Oregon say the coarse are for harvester bars and the fine are for saw bars, there prices in there catalog are $38 for the dresser coarse files are $143 and fine are $70. Just remember the files are in six packs. I am sure one of the Oregon dealers on here could give a better price as these are retail prices
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jmester - I believe that diagram showing the angled file for deburring the sides is really just showing breaking the corner after deburring it. You don't need to have a sharp corner on the outside edge (but neither do you want to take a whole lot of meat off the corner).
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You are correct. Bar edge cuts can be nasty have had a few in my days no fun.
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Top-to-bottom comparison of an Oregon bar dressing tool, a $5 eBay clone, and a Pferd tool.
The parts on the clone are interchangeable with the Oregon, although, the plastic feels softer, and I can't tell yet about the file quality.
The difference in the size and coarseness of the Pferd tool are clearly evident.
Philbert
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My proposed design for a home-built file holder (on my project list), using hardwood scraps, and a hardware store file cut to size with a Dremel tool cut-off wheel.
[attachimg=1]
Philbert
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current list price on the oregon dresser is now up to $42 but can be picked up for under $30
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Was just lurking on AS and there's a 3 page thread on a bent Stihl ES 28" bar.
Could someone here please post on there suggesting hammering it back straight with a hammer and shim on a heavy flat surface anvil.
Stupidity seems to rule on that site :D reason I never want to join. Hahaha
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Top-to-bottom comparison of an Oregon bar dressing tool, a $5 eBay clone, and a Pferd tool.
The parts on the clone are interchangeable with the Oregon, although, the plastic feels softer, and I can't tell yet about the file quality.
The difference in the size and coarseness of the Pferd tool are clearly evident.
Philbert
So which do you find to work the best squaring back up and getting rid of the burrs?
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So which do you find to work the best squaring back up and getting rid of the burrs?
I have a bunch of bars to 'do', but a number of projects before I get to them. Will post here after I have tried each on a few different bars.
Philbert
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I prefer the stihl dressing tool for it cuts the bars a lot better then the PFRED. Plus I like the longer flat to help make sure you are at 90*. The only down fall is the stihl is a bit more money but I think it is worth it. I have seen that Oregon also is making one as well have not used one, but look similar to the PFRED.
The blue one is the PFRED dressing tool, works well on most husky and Oregon bars. The second one is the Stihl dressing tool, it works well for your stihl and cannon bars. As they are a harder bar IMO. And the bigger teeth spacing on the PFRED does a great job on softer metal. And the closer teeth spacing does a great job on you harder bars. The part number for the stihl 5605 773 4400 the part number for stihl replacement file 5605 773 4200. For those who don't know what these are for, they can be use to resquare your bar rails and remove the burrs of the edge of the rail.
What I was looking for.
Had to refresh my brain.
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Have only used these a little bit:
I like the Oregon file.
The eBay file (surprise!) does not cut as well, but the cloned holder might work as a replacement for my crracked Oregon one.
Pferd file has a coarse and less coarse side (but both still coarser than Oregon); have to try this on more bars.
Philbert
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After some more use, and more bars, I still prefer the performance of the Oregon tool. The coarse Pferd file does not cut the hardened rails as well, but the design of the holder makes it really easy to switch out and reverse the file (to keep filing direction (and filings) away from the nose sprocket bearings). It looks like it would be easy to cut down a conventional file (with a Dremel cut off wheel) to fit, so maybe I will try that with a finer tooth, hardware store file.
Philbert
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I like the Oregon model, but I received it damaged, so I am using the clone body and the Oregon OEM file, which works much better. As noted earlier, replacement files are sold in packs of 6 for $8 - $13 per file!! !
Tried this today, using a hardware store file ($7) and a Dremel cut off tool. An 8" file would have been large enough to make 2 replacements for the Oregon tool, but the 10" file had coarser teeth. That is one of the advantages of doing this - you can choose different file patterns / coarseness / etc. For this attempt I tried to match the OEM file.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Philbert
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Very clever Philbert.
Is the thickness of the 10" file the same as the files for the bar dresser.
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Thinking outside the box. Love it.
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Is the thickness of the 10" file the same as the files for the bar dresser.
This one is slightly thicker, but still within the grip range of the holder. It would depend on the file you choose.
Philbert
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I think that Vallorbe (#47956) might be the originator of the 'Oregon' (#111439) bar dressing tool, but it is harder to find in the US. I see it mostly on eBay or Amazon.
Googling the STIHL part numbers (5605-773-4400 tool, 5605-773-4200 replacement file) mostly shows availability in the UK and NZ. But I have heard from a couple of US STIHL dealers, 'Yeah, we can get that'. Pricing about the same as the Oregon version ($28 tool, $11 file), if you like orange better than black. And single files available.
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]
Philbert