Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: KilliansRedLeo on March 08, 2014, 03:32:45 pm
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I have one of these in for repair. It has a bad ground wire that runs to the on/off switch. The saw uses the early type SEM electronic ignition. The coil has the wire molded in and is not replaceable as far as I can see. Does not use the spade connector like later versions.
A used coil of this type is worth more than the saw IMHO.
If anyone knows of another coil that will work without having to change the flywheel let me know.
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Perhaps I could splice a new wire on to what is left of the original wire?
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I've spliced coil wires (ones that didnt screw out and were molded in). Spliced ground wires to on/off from coil before too. Whatever it takes to get the job done cheaply for most folks.
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What is really the problem is the little brass barrel crimped to the wire end is missing and I cannot find just the barrel any where. So was thinking if I could find a wire with that end good I would splice on another end.
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pricey but is this it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141188378352?lpid=82
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084 wire looks like above and cheaper. Maybe just longer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-STIHL-084-CHAINSAW-ON-OFF-STOP-KILL-SWITCH-SHORT-CIRCUIT-GROUND-WIRE-/130671846099?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
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Well, it appears that McMaster Carr sells the little brass crimp on end that goes in the start/stop switch. On the saw that I have the end is missing. So, if any one has an 028 and would be willing to measure the one they have perhaps I could get the right size ordered. I would need to know the diameter and length of the pin.
Thank you.
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When I changed the coil on my 028 , I cut this wire off from the points. I was about to throw it away. Its 10 inches long without the spade connector , just cut wire and the brass barrel on the other end. If you want it , PM me your address and I'll mail it to you . no charge , its the least I can do in exchange for all the good info on this site.
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Thank you! PM sent!!
Thanks again!
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Also check wanted thread and what I found today. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3230.0;attach=6146;image
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Mark3885, wire got here today, thank you so much. I can now get this little saw off my bench and outta here!
Hey Mark, it would have taken less time to drive to Rochester than it did to stick all those stamps on the envelope ;D! Seriously if you happen to be in Rochester, you should stop by the shop to bullchit for a while and suck down a couple of beers!
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While repairing this saw I noticed that the tank vent was rotted completely off the breather pipe. Looked up the part from Stihl, just a tube with what appears to be two expanded bronze plugs in it, similar to something I saw used on some model of Poulan. Was about to order it when I realized Stihl wants 18$ for a two inch piece of tubing! WTF! They are nuts! Going to look round and see if I can find out which Poulan that setup was used on, or make my own using two set screws and a scrap piece of tube!
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Yeah, make your own. Just get the correct piece of tygon, get setscrews that push in a tad snug, but not too snug, and you don't want to thread them in.
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Thanks Fish, I really appreciate it! I want this little bugger outta here, tired of messing with it! Given the level of use/mis-use on the saw I doubt that it was running when it got here. The thing has been rode hard and put away wet!
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sorry, I must have missed the earlier threads on this saw.
Why would not a simple electronic ignition swap worked on this saw?
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The saw uses the early SEM electronic ignition. That SEM coil has the ground wire permanently attached, it appears to be molded in the coil so no apparent way to switch the ground wire, at least none that I could discover. The wire was broken within only about a inch remaining attached to the coil.
Swapping out the coil would have worked, I'm sure however I did not know nor could I figure out what coil would work in place of the SEM coil using what I assume is a SEM version of the flywheel. Please, if you know what coil will work in place of the SEM let me know. The owner also had a budget within which he wanted me to work. A used SEM coil runs $60-80, which would have put him beyond his repair cost budget. So the only option I could work out was to splice a new section of wire to the remaining piece attached to the coil.
I have attached three photos of the coil I found on eBay.
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Well, you were "told". .....
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It may just be easier to drive up there and "fix" that turd!!!!!!!!!!!
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Would not want anyone to have to drive to fix my problem! Is there something I could do to make a better fix? And 'turd' is correct! Stihls are not my long suit so any opportunity to learn something is always appreciated!
I found a reference to this in another thread, it appears to also be a SEM, will it work in place of the one on the saw currently?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Ignition-coil-for-Stihl-026-028-029-MS290-036-044-066-PN-0000-400-1300-/350556558763?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519ecc95ab&nma=true&si=useVlKfVqBKlhXn26YuBXWQACr4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Also found this, says it works but who knows:
https://www.hlsproparts.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=0000%20400%201300&Submit=
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Those ones you are looking at are cheap Chinese aftermarket coils, surely you have a burned up old 029/ms290 around, just slap that coil on and go cut some wood.
I have a couple left myself, off of a new ms290
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-Ignition-Coil-Part-0000-400-1300-New-/200985154788?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecba614e4
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Thanks Fish, I'll get on ebay and buy one! Do mostly Husqvarna and Dolmar. Lots of Husky parts around very few Stihl.
Just purchased one of your coils. Thanks again!
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You needing anything else for that old girl? I have several 028 carcasses about. I never have bothered trying to e-bay them yet, too many damn little differences. If I have anything laying around that you might need, I'll go on a treasure hunt now, and throw it in the box.
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Could use a decent clutch drum the current one is a spur and it is shot! Not sure if .325 or .375 but makes no difference the bar and chain are also shot and should be replaced.
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I'll look around, but I am sure any junk 028 sprocket round here is junk, and it would be .325, what about the bearing????
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Probably the bearing. But no big deal! ;D
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I'll see what I can scrounge up.
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Fish, you know far more than I do bout this saw. Whatever bit that fails send it.
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OK, so now have the ignition system sorted. On to the next problem, the spur sprocket is shot! It appears that this is an early version of the 028 and it uses a somewhat strange chain drive system. See the following link to the 'wanted' section here:
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/wanted/stihl-028-old-style-clutch-sprocket/
I am at a loss here as I don't even know what I might be able to substitute for the current set up. There are after market products that say they will replace the Stihl setup but looking at the photos I cannot see how they would do that.
So, if anyone has what I need or what I could substitute please let me know. Thank you!
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Could you not just solder the wire and heat shrink where needed?
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I made a post on your other thread.....
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Red, can you post a pic of both sides of your clutch/oil pump cover? I have some 028 parts around too. I am thinking that Fish is sending you the same stuff that I would have.
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(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image-24.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image-24.jpg.html) Maybe this will help you a little bit. the covers are different but the new style clutch drum should work.
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I will post a picture tomorrow when back in the shop. However it also appears according to Oregon catalog that their product 30384x will work with this saw!
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Could you not just solder the wire and heat shrink where needed?
That is exactly what I did after finding the appropriate size brass tubing at a hobby shop to make the barrel contact for the on/off switch.
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Good ole hobby shop again . . .
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You bet Jim, K&S tubing in 0.415 and a little solder!
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I wanted a 1/2 steel bar about a foot long and went to the local hardware, down the street, a couple weeks ago. To my surprise, it was cheaper to buy the 1/2" K-S bar that was 12" already than to buy the long bar they had. I didn't have to do anything but use it. No cut off or anything. That hardware has a pretty good K-S selection, probably better than the Hobby shop that is 8 mi away. I didn't think the hobby shop would have anything that big?
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here are pictures of what I am now dealing with, you can see why I need a new sprocket.
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The sprocket I am sending you should pop right on, and just use the oil gear I sent with it. You could run the sprocket bit, it has a little life in in it. But if that saw had a chain on it, it is toast.
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Agree, the drivers are worn round! Some guys just run chit until it won't! Might as well buy Chinese junk and throw it away when out of fuel!
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+1 to fish
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If I'm not mistaken as I sometimes am the drive gears and possibley the driven gears interchange from the 038 to the 028 depending on if it's spur or rim drive .
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I am pretty sure that the drive gear he has won't fit the 7 teeth sprocket, the inner part of a rim drive setup is the same shape as the spur, so it would work on one of those.
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I'm not sure about the 028's but I do know the 038 had several drive sytems that would fit .Solid one piece spur and drum,rim drive plus a replaceable spur gizmo .I've got gears floating around to fit all three .Imagine that I have 3 038's and all three systems .How strange is that ?
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Thanks to everyone, especially Fish for the parts. The saw is done, runs and cuts great. Owner picked it up today, we will see how long it takes him to get it back in the condition it was when it came in!
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Take a pic of the old spur part and it's oil driver, so we all know what they look like.
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Take a pic of the old spur part and it's oil driver, so we all know what they look like.
Pictures of the spur and drive gear n reply #37 ;D
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No, I mean a close up of the inside of the oil gear mainly, how it is different that the one on there now.
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No, I mean a close up of the inside of the oil gear mainly, how it is different that the one on there now.
Sorry, the used parts went back to the owner with the saw. The difference in the oil drive gear is that the center of the old gear had two ears that fit into two recesses 90° opposed to the recesses for the old sprocket. The clutch drum did not have the elongated sprocket like the new one e.g. no star in the center.
If you enlarge the last photo in post #37 you can clearly see how the original drive gear slips over the clutch drum hub and is prevented from rotating by the engagement recesses for the sprocket.
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Yeah, luckily they didn't make too many of that other style, come to think of it, I probably have some of those still in some boxes......
Damn.
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Well Fish knowing the way this guy abuses his saw, have a look around and let me know what you got, PM with a price! This old girl is certainly 'OLD'! That the saw survives and still runs is a tribute to the Stihl engineers! Still has good compression, around 150 and I think it has the double key way flywheel on it.