Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Tool Shed => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on April 07, 2014, 07:21:58 pm
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Interesting idea. Cordless Drill powered pull starter
Hey Al for that ole 2100 of yours. ;)
http://youtu.be/gDXgljybZ4E
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I can still drop start my 2100, so even though it is a pretty neat gadget I will not be needing one.
Now as far as Al I don't know. It helps when your up 6000 ft.
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The cordless pull handle actuator is real neat. It is even better than mine . . . .
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/StarterMegatron.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/StarterMegatron.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/StarterDynatronMillerReduction.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/StarterDynatronMillerReduction.jpg.html)
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Those look like starters for RC planes.
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They are for starting the chainsaw engines converted over to model airplane use.
The non reduction one (Megatron) though it will run on 24 volts, I use a 12 volt truck battery on it and it turns 2800 no load rpm @ 600 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 100 amp at that load.
The 4:1 reduction one (Dynatron), I have set up to use two emergency light batteries and it turns 2400 no load rpm @2700 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 20 amp at that load.
The reduction unit is a Miller 4:1 reduction unit. You can buy them to fit either starter.
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Do they fit on the nose of the prop?
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Yes, you need an aluminum spinner on the front of the engine.
The two hand one I bought at a garage sale after the guy died but he had a couple 50 cc engines that he started with it all the time.
The other one I bought unused with the reduction unit at a swap meet in Columbus, Ohio.
I've had them some 7 years. Wanted one years before but when I found them for $100 each 2nd hand I bought them.
The reduced speed one came with the reduction on it but I mounted the assembly on top of the emergency light batteries. Notice I have a capacitor across the starter button or it will blow the button up.
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I don't get it. A battery, a DC motor and a switch. What does the capacitor do to protect the switch.
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The capacitor is part of a stereo speaker crossover system and it came from Radio Shack.
The switch blows up when you let go. The collapsed windings of the electric motor act like a spark plug coil.
Try holding on to the leads of a running golf cart motor and take your foot off the peddle. It will ruin the rest of your day.
Even a DC arc welder will sometimes do that when you break the arc if you are both grounded and the handle is bad and your gloves wet.
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The switch contacts were originally beryllium copper and pretty heavy. There was no capacitor.
The bigger starter without the reduction drive still has the original switch with the beryllium copper contacts.
Tools made of beryllium copper alloys are strong and hard and do not create sparks when they strike a steel surface
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Ok so the capacitor will discharge the voltage to ground and not through the switch.
I remember we used to use diodes across the coils of DC relays to block any reverse EMF.
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Crazy! I just hope the rope is long enough?
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Ok so the capacitor will discharge the voltage to ground and not through the switch.
I remember we used to use diodes across the coils of DC relays to block any reverse EMF.
That works too. I actually bought the silicon Diode too when I bought the capacitor but the capacitor did the trick.
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Crazy! I just hope the rope is long enough?
I thought about that too. Lot of my saws in the past I used that rope up till the end.
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No dropping that arm breaker for me .On the ground foot in handle for that one .
I figured it out finally .Choke only once,tug.It will start most of the time .You don't want to flood that thing for certain .
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Any idea how to get the drill powered tool featured in video ?