Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: jmester on May 03, 2014, 10:43:47 pm
-
Does any one know witch way to slot the cylinder base holes. Do you go side to side or front to back?
-
I got it took a little time. The screw hole need to be oval in shape at an angle back towards the piston.
-
Do the outsides of the transfer loops hit?
-
There was one fin on the tranfers loop that I got out of the way on the clutch side. I did have to file a step in on the cylinder base clutch side to get the cylinder to lay flush on the crankcase.
-
Have not reinstalled the flywheel yet. Would appear that some grinding on the tranfers maybe in order. Will have to see and get back to you.
-
Looks like I need to do a little grinding on the transfer loop to give some clearance on the flywheel.
-
Was going to try and use a 650 piston to close up the squish a little but that's not going to work. I would have to make a pop up or a spacer plate. Plus you need to widen out the piston pin bosses. Have heard of guys using a 064 piston but you need to do the same to it.
-
I've seen engines with ground washers on both sides of the rod to make up for short bosses
-
Where's the deck height now? I don't remember if I milled the jug on mine, been 4-5 years...
-
Can not say for sure yet need to put in crank bearings. Waiting on the clutch side bearing did not feel that you could get a accurate reading if the crank has play to move up and down. Hopefully will get the bearings Wednesday and have it back together over the weekend.
-
The best way to slot the holes is to use a 440 gasket to mark the base of the 460 cylinder.
A little grinding will likely be needed to clear the flywheel. It'll be obvious and easy to take care of.
Squish should be the same as on a 460 case. The stroke is the same. Why use a different piston?
You will need short spacers between the muffler and case. You can use a few washers or make a couple spacers.
Hope some of that helps.
-
Don't have a lathe to turn the cylinder. Just trying different things to see what works and what does not. Thanks for the heads up on the spacers needed for the muffler. That was how I did the slots on mine was use the 440 base gasket. When you assembled yours did you use the 440 base gasket or the 460 base gasket?
-
Got my parts in just need the time to put the bearings in the case and reassemble. How hot and how long should the cases be heated to put the bearings in. Usually use a press to get them in. But it is hard on the case. Want to try a new way. Looked at Killians post on a 371/372 to heat to 200* c for 20 to 30 mins and freeze the bearings for 24 hours. Would think it would apply to stihl saws as well?
-
I just heat the bearing pockets with a small torch or heat gun. A heat gun will take 5-10 minutes aimed at the bearing pocket.
-
+1 on the heat gun
-
If there is some paint missing in the bottom of the crankcase. Do you guts repaint those areas or just leave them alone? My thought was that the paint helps to seal the pores in the magnesium.
-
I usually take the rest off and leave it bare
-
Thanks.
-
I have a 'garage sale' toaster oven large enough to fit one pair of cases that I use. Husqvarna does not say how long to heat cases only to heat them in an oven to 200°C. The 20-30 minutes that I use is because the toaster oven is not as well insulated as my wife's Viking range which she won't let me use!
When I get a case like a 3120XP which won't fit in the toaster oven, I use a heat gun.
As far as the paint goes, I also remove it. As long as the saw is in service there is little chance of 'white death' inside the cases because they are coated with oil.
When using an over you must remove all rubber/plastic parts from the case and all chainsaw goo to prevent ruining parts or starting a fire.
-
Got them in there used my propane plumbers torch. Works like a champ. Easy to tell when you have the cases hot enough the bearings almost fall out. Thanks for the tips and help. Got the cases back together. Need to get the special tool to drive the flywheel side crank seals in. Then comes the fun clean the rest of the parts and reassemble.
-
Great work! Glad we could help. Make sure to tell us how she runs.
-
I will. Thanks.
-
Did have to do some grinding on the transfer loop to clear the flywheel. Need to get a cooling plate for the muffler, rebuild the carb and make some spacers for the lower muffler bolts. Fun build so far. You also have to modify the 440 cylinder cover to clear the cylinder.
-
like on the 034/036 'conversion, I just braze a couple or 3 washers to the bottom holes.
-
Bump for info
-
What info you looking for Jason?
-
Thinking on building another one. And just want to go back over some of my notes and what others have said before I start. If that is what I decide to do.
-
Got started on my second one. Got the case cleaned and painted. New bearings in. Got the gasket set today so I can install the crank tomorrow. Worked on the cylinder mods tonight. Filed the pto side base flange to fit. Tomorrow will be to file my cylinder mounting screw hole to line up with the case. These are some fun projects. Glad I have the opportunity to build another one.
-
It's not too much work to make them. I had to drill the holes through the cylinder find to get my tools to fit to tighten the base bolts.
-
No it is not much work at all. I enjoy the mods to make it fit. I did not have to drill any additional holes on the last one I built. This case and cylinder seemed to need more filing then the other I build but maybe I just can't remember.
-
I didn't drill any extra just opened the holes the T27 fits down. It wouldn't fit with the 2 ones I have that go to a ratchet and the drill driver.
-
Got what your saying now. Got my cylinder holes slotted. Ready for assembly. Mike can't remember but you have to run a 046/460 muffler to line up with the exhaust flange? Also need to make spacers for the two lower muffler screws that screw in the case?
-
The 440 muffler fits with the spacers on the lower bolts.
-
Thanks Mike.
-
No problem. I've put a couple together ported of course.
-
They are very nice saws stock. Will post a couple of pics when I am done.
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image_6.jpeg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image_6.jpeg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image_4.jpeg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image_4.jpeg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image_5.jpeg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image_5.jpeg.html)
-
Got done putting it together last night. Still need to take it out and run it. I think it turned out pretty nice.
-
Looks sweet!!
-
Thanks Adam. How is your hybrid coming along?
-
Got all the goodies, gonna try a meteor jug and see how it runs...
-
Let us know how the meteor jug works. If you don't mind. Still have not run mine. Finally just ran and tuned the 026 I put together. Looks rough but runs good.
-
Ran the hybrid yesterday. Runs great. Love the sound and it has a great feel. Fun build.
Is there any modern husky saws out there that can be build like a 440/460 hybrid.
-
The 362/372 chassis has cylinders from 62 to 74cc factory with the BB kit giving the same cc as the hybrid.
-
I should have kept the 371 I had to do the 372xpw p and c on. Oh well there are always more saws to be had.