Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: jmester on May 07, 2014, 07:47:55 pm
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Got a seized 350. How involved is it to put on a 346 piston and cylinder. And any other things to check out while I am in there.
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They bolt right on.
But there may be other problems with the boot clamp?
The muffler may have been loose and the exhaust burned a hole in the oil tank?
There may have been a air leak to cause the seizure to begin with?
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Lean seizure for sure. Going to put new crank seals and re seal the engine pan. I think mweba did a video on a 350/346 conversion. May have to look around for it.
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+1
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https://www.youtube.com/user/mweba1/featured
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When I went through mine I got the updated clamp for the 350 and it went together real easy and is good and tight. Not sure if it would be same with a 346 cylinder though.
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Does any one know what the updated clamp and partition kit, part number is.
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http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-346-357-359-353-update-info/
Shep
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http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-346-357-359-353-update-info/
Shep
Same ol' story, but it still is true. ;D
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Thanks for the link. Would you guys recommend the 357/359 carb.
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I also found that you need to trim off 3 plastic ribs on the inside of the clutch side of the saw to allow the 346 cylinder to sit flush on the riser.
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Good to know.
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Thanks for the link. Would you guys recommend the 357/359 carb.
Yep!
I also found that you need to trim off 3 plastic ribs on the inside of the clutch side of the saw to allow the 346 cylinder to sit flush on the riser.
Saw that in an old post when Stumpy did one. Forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder I have 2 to do.
Shep
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Thanks for the link. Would you guys recommend the 357/359 carb.
JMO on this. If you have a HOT cookie cutting woods ported saw a 357 359 199 walbro is good for 10% quicker cut times. Can only be told by using a stop watch.
The zama 357 359 carb wont flow enough for a hot woods port. Only lesser and stock saws.
Carbs stock on the 346. I ran 1 on my woods ported 45cc 346 and a 199 357 carb on the other 346 45cc woods ported. You couldnt tell anything between them toill you put a stop watch on the cuts.
I ran a nice woods ported work saw 346 XPG 50cc at a racing GTG with the stock 346 carb and it ran right with the 50cc ones with the 357 carbs on them. Like I said earlier your giving up 10% but wont notice cutting wood without a stop watch.
1st run 7.70 2nd run 6.85 NE 346, 357 carb
1st run 7.62 NE 346, 346 carb, I only make 1 run at gtgs.
1st run 7.97 NE 346, 357 carb, 357 intake, ceramic bearings .
1st run 7.98 OE 346, 357 carb, 346 intake. 45cc
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Just put together a 350 tried the 357 vs. stock carb. Started easier with the stock carb and with essentially stock timing I certainly couldn't see any gain with the 357 out in the woods. SO in my humble opinion unless you can see a measurable difference on a hot rod saw... save the money and stick with a stock carb. The other thing was I had to grind a little to make the left side (adjuster screw side) throttle linkage/stop so it wouldn't interfere with the case with the 357 carb.
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Bingo weimedog well said.
Work saw you will never notice the difference.
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Thanks for the info. Think I will stick with the stock 346 carb. That way it will run the same carb kit as my 346 and 2152.
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Is the C3-EL17 part number 503283207 the non limiter capped carb and the C3-EL18 limiter capped. I ordered a C3-EL32 and then realized I have no primer bulb. Guess that is what happens when you are in a hurry.
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Got the parts in the other day. Got the crank and riser back in the saw. Intake and new clamp on the cylinder. Test fit every thing and the transfer loop is awful close to the clutch side of the case. Do you guys think it will get hot enough that low on the cylinder to melt the case. It is going to be a climbing saw lots of start up and run for a minute or so then back off. Not a firewood saw.
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There's not enough heat at the lower end of the transfers because the incoming fuel helps to cool the area off a little bit.
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Thanks that is good to know. Will let you know how it turns out.
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Got the saw almost put back together. Waiting on the carb. If the way this 350 is setup with riser is hva clam shell design would have to say I like it better then the stihl version. Fun build and will be glad to go cut some wood with it.
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Got the parts in the other day. Got the crank and riser back in the saw. Intake and new clamp on the cylinder. Test fit every thing and the transfer loop is awful close to the clutch side of the case. Do you guys think it will get hot enough that low on the cylinder to melt the case. It is going to be a climbing saw lots of start up and run for a minute or so then back off. Not a firewood saw.
I have a pile of 350 cases..... and the only place I ever see things hot enough to melt the cases is where the old ones had the mufflers rattle loose and shoot hot exhaust gas right into the case....melts a hole in the oil tank (bar oil) ..... seen plenty of them!
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Got my carb on and tuned, took it out and made some cuts with it. Very happy with how it cuts and runs. Fun build. Thanks for the help and tips.
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I also found that you need to trim off 3 plastic ribs on the inside of the clutch side of the saw to allow the 346 cylinder to sit flush on the riser.
It's also a good idea to take about .050 off of the cylinder bolts. The flange on the bottom of the 346 cylinder is thinner than on the 350. The bolts can bottom out, or at best not hold tightness as they should.
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Having to buy a 350 too to get the 351 I wanted.
So just reading up.
Appears to be OE
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Husky 350 must be newer. Has primer bulb.
350 runs and cuts good he said.
Few bumps, bruises.
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350 ended up being the one that had the Nascar edition bar and sticker on it. No biggie to me. Paint wore off bar but sticker still on the top cover with nascar.
Different nascar editions to try and show the sticker and bar. Only thing different.
350 left with 346 muffler support trimmed for it. 351 right with its one legged muffler support on case.
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The updated oem intake partition with metal clamp is in for the 350 351. Decided to do them right instead of cheaper redneck trim fix using old one with metal clamp.
Because they will get sold later on.
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Pulled that NE 350 down yesterday and installed the new partition and oem metal clamp. Cylinder still looked like new with the crosshatching etc.
Wanted to test cut but was pouring cats and dogs like crazy. So got out my shop work vise mounted a 8x8 cant in it and test cut indoors.
Odd thing I didnt know husky had went to 80dl 325 from 78dl. So my new chain was to short and just used the one that was with bar.
Will take a pic of set later.
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Lots of rain up north of you too in Ontario.
Major ice storms up there.
Check out this short video of this dog narrowly missed getting hit by a tree in his backyard.
https://www.theweathernetwork.com/ca/videos/gallery/dog-narrowly-escapes-falling-tree-in-backyard-during-ontario-ice-storm-wow/sharevideo/5771211802001
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WI got buried with snow a guy showed me. Half way up his garage door. Guessing drifting.
Up lake erie is in the streets where I take charters out of.
Here is what I came up with for down cut test indoors during the downpour.
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Here's a pic of my cutting test area by my saw shop. It's April 16th and I still got 4 ft of hard pack snow in my yard.
Definitely going to build another log stand like the pair I got on my speedcutting stage trailer.
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Snow no problem, dark no problem. Raining downpour problem.
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I'd love to see some rain, help get rid of this 6 month old snow.
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Pulled that NE 350 down yesterday and installed the new partition and oem metal clamp. Cylinder still looked like new with the crosshatching etc.
Wanted to test cut but was pouring cats and dogs like crazy. So got out my shop work vise mounted a 8x8 cant in it and test cut indoors.
Odd thing I didnt know husky had went to 80dl 325 from 78dl. So my new chain was to short and just used the one that was with bar.
Will take a pic of set later.
80 dl is NK 20".
Shep
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Pulled that NE 350 down yesterday and installed the new partition and oem metal clamp. Cylinder still looked like new with the crosshatching etc.
Wanted to test cut but was pouring cats and dogs like crazy. So got out my shop work vise mounted a 8x8 cant in it and test cut indoors.
Odd thing I didnt know husky had went to 80dl 325 from 78dl. So my new chain was to short and just used the one that was with bar.
Will take a pic of set later.
80 dl is NK 20".
Shep
Thanks for the lead Shep.
Have to look at it closer I reckon. Just looked like husqvarna oregon lpx chain and normal bar. Didnt look close. Just caught DL count different.
Will look and see if this is it.
Chain pitch/Gauge/Drive Link: .325"/ .050"/80DL (H30-80)
Chainsaw Bar: 20" Pixel Bar (HLN-250-80) EMAB
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Was able to test cut today in the ash.
Good to go with the 20" 325 NK Would prefer LGX but is what it is.
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Since I still have some parts left from this series for rebuilds. Picked up another husky 350. This one is OE.
pics that were shown to me. missing chain brake
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I really like the 350. The one I have has a 346 piston and cylinder. Runs very well. Plus if I remember right you can use the 359 oil pump to make sure you have plenty of oil. Plus most of them people will give them away with a cooked p and c.
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I like them too. Gave local volunteer fire dept. like new one for their 20 year old 51 Husky. They really like it primer bulb starts 2 pulls. Added a 346 muffler support. Most of them probably shouldn't even put a saw in their hand. My Mom was a fire fighter there went to school and everything. She went "HOME" 8 yrs. ago.
Shep
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Missing presence lever 503854401 saving
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I took a quick peek. Yep this one is going to be awhile to get to she is just like I thought, hurt. Like said OE but it is also the 44mm bore like a 351. Will be getting the 45mm set I have when I go through it someday.
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Husky 350 2002 44mm was scored. Instead of cleaning up the cyl this time. I have a 45mm set from a 353 setting on the shelf.
The plastic intake clamp warped and killed it. Updated the partion and metal intake clamp.
Hadnt seen one these fuel filters.
Looks like it will be getting a new drum rim set up and worm gear. Also need presence lever, reason for tape holding spring down. Otherwise under the hood everything looked new and cared for.
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https://youtu.be/Q5bxCSeZEYU
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OE 350 44mm done with updated 45mm 353 used set. New updated partition and metal clamp. Had to trim the plastic stop off H as I could not tune below 13.8K with the stop and now got her set at 12.8K. 52-60 that can go someday.
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Good video showing the loose clamp. Almost everyone that comes in needs replaced. Only a few have been tight seal still that have came in. I warn owners. 357 359 353 350 351 346
https://youtu.be/yqY-LX6wipo
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Ttt
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Doing another 350 with 346 cylinder. Wanted to post some pics of the process. The riser needs a little bit of work. It needs a groove put on the intake side for the impulse passage. The 346 pulls pulse from outside the cylinder and the 350 pulls pulse from inside the bore. The riser needs to be flattened on the case side as over time the corners pull down and will not seal because of the high and low spots across the sealing surface. I feel that the case sealing should be roughed up with sandpaper to give the sealer a little more bite.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/28f07933ee03bce11aa420568da4ac67.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/eb8fb40b8ba235c59e1d4aabcec8cc50.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/33ebb1395712a01864ce6b5de53a7781.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/fc38811b3050dfb8798b0776aa13294e.jpg)
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Pic of the case. The 3 center ribs on the pto side of the case need to be trimmed off to clear the wider 346 transfer tunnels.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/4084e9a3475e10fa087677fa337576c1.jpg)
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Pics showing impulse passages. 1st pic 350. 2nd pic 346.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/6e1b2e00262c0c099a7291854f0f421e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181230/219df160823786b4b0150e376a9de2b8.jpg)
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Never paid attention to that before. Thanks for sharing
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The funny thing is that I know I watched Mitch's video on the last one I built. But never remember cutting a groove in the riser for impulse. Maybe I did but i think I would remember something like that.
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Saving info by Spike60 = Just for the record there are 2 different 350 top ends and only one of them had the habit of spitting the muffler bolts. Early 350's were 44mm bore and straight open port designs, and shared that top end with the 351. (Jonsered 2150 and 2149) That top end is fine and did not have the muffler bolt issue.
The later 350's were 45mm and had the capped transfer ports. The cylinder was shared with the 353, but had a dished piston on the 350 and flat top piston on the 353. (Jonsered 2150 and 2152). That top end had an allergic reaction to the muffler bolts and spit them out whether it was a plastic case or mag case saw. Problem was some kind of vibration that was at it's worse at the 12,500 RPM. Unless you stayed on top of the bolts, it is just a matter of time until they get loose.
Best rebuild option is to go with the 346XP top end which is the same price as the 350 kits. Think it's only $110 for an OEM kit, so there's not much savings going with an aftermarket kit, Only 2 slight alterations need to be made and it bolts right on. Take about .050 off the cylinder bolts as the flange of the 346 jug is a little thinner than the 350's. Then shave the "ribs" on the clutch side of the crankcase so they do not interfere with the transfer castings which stick out a little farther on the 346 cylinders.
Results in a real quick snappy saw. I've built several of them for my tree service customers who always loved the 346 and don't want to let it go. Was hesitant at first to put them in commercial use, but decent 346/2153 carcasses are hard to come by. They actually hold up fine and I don't see issues with the plastic case. Now some of the guys are finding decent 350's and bringing them in asking me to "give them the 346 treatment".
Husqvarna-Jonsered
Ashokan Turf and Timber
845-657-6395