Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: jmester on June 14, 2014, 09:10:24 pm
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Have any of you guys tried to reuse the crank seals. Have a 039 with some light aluminum gall. Cleaned it up got a fresh set of rings. And think of trying to reuses the seals from a 290 parts saw I have the seal are nice and pliable and the outer edge looks good. Thinking of trying it and see what happens. Have a new set on order now, just a lot of work if they don't seal.
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too much work to take the chance.
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I think you are right. Think I might try it and see if it works. No big rush to get the saw done.
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I agree with BB put new seals in and be done with it.
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just too much work to bother. regardless of how much time you have to work on it. the seals are basically dirt cheap, why bother having to go in there again when it could be done once the right way.
there is a saying where I work. and it's as true as anything:
you never seem to have the time to do the job right the first time. but you always have time to do it twice. ;)
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Stihl list two different seal numbers for the MS290.
One has a wire ring embedded in the outer surface as a reinforcement for inserting a seal into an assembled saw with the crank and bearing cap in place.
9639 003 1743 Use this seal on a completely disassembled engine block
9639 010 1743 Use this seal on an assembled engine that already has the bearing cap on
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Yes I have the hard seals on order all ready. You guys are right not worth the time and effort just to save a couple of bucks. Should have the seal by mid week and get the saw put back together by the end of the week.
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I work on this series of saw quite often and would not hesitate to reuse a seal if it was in good order.
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I beg to differ on the cheap part. $15 to $18 each is not cheap in my book. AM seals are reasonable but I wouldn't reuse seals even paying stihl prices for them.
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These 1127 series saws often suffer a premature death. Because of the way the seals are installed and removed, they don't suffer trauma like a pressed in seal would. If the seal is in good shape and pliable, I see no need to replace it with a new one. I have Stihl saws well over 20 years old happily running with the original seals so a five year old saw should be good for a long time yet. At least that's my thinking... For the same reason, if the fuel line or impulse lines are pliable and not leaking I don't replace them either. I fix what's broke. I don't replace parts that are perfectly serviceable, whether it's a piece of heavy equipment, an aircraft, a vehicle or a chainsaw.
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I don't know much about a MS290/MS390 except that it is a clamshell design.
But I have some of the 025/MS250 clamshells and the seal cavity has a slight outer lip. There is no way to successfully remove and install the seals without removing the engine from the frame and pulling the pan from the bottom of the engine.
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The MS250, although in a different family is very similar in construction to the 1127 series. I just assembled an MS250 a few days ago. Haven't run it in wood yet. I agree that it would be difficult to change a seal without having the pan off and the pan can't come off without removing the engine and the engine can't come out without taking just about every other nut, bolt and screw on the saw apart. These clamshell saws are challenging to disassemble and assemble but the engines are robust and they'll last a long time if cared for. About the time one gets off the bench there are others in line.