Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Tool Shed => Topic started by: 1manband on July 06, 2014, 09:33:41 pm
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found a lot of conflicting information out on the web.
1. where is good source to buy replacement handles?
2. what should be used for soaking/swelling the handle to the bit? pros/cons: anti-freeze; linseed oil; olive oil; water; bees wax
local hardware stores were run out by home deep-pockets...... and only a couple of choices for handles found there. talking about old time axes here. would rather keep these going, hope that the old time steel is better quality than new available there.
have one double bit, and one standard axe.
help appreciated. like having hand tools around.
-joe
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Does your ax head use a wedge driven into the top of the handle to make it fit tight.
Around here there is a country/ranch type store that carries wood handles for ax heads.
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My double bit used wedge. My pick was just slide down to big end and try and get tight.
I cant remember where I bought handles. But maybe Shelby mall Glenn's or the Mennonite / Amish hardware store I got my barn materials.
If one gets alittle loose I just soak in water over nite.
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http://www.tennesseehickoryproducts.com/products.shtml
http://www.sears.com/search=replacement%20hickory%20axe%20handle
http://www.acehardware.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=1260176
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Make your own from ash that you split and rough shaped with a draw knife, bent until dry and finish shaped?
The definitive drying compound is "PEG" or Poly Ethylene Glycol as this prevents splitting of the grain while curing.
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a guy i work with said there is an old time hardware store in his town that has racks of handles in stock. i'll start there first.
this way, i can bring the axe heads in to match the handles/holes, then pick the length similar to picking out a baseball bat for swing i guess.
never much cared for the curve at the end on the one that is broken anyway.
the single edge head has a steel wedge in the handle. the double bit has some sort of red melted plastic(?) in the end of the handle.
never gave any of this much thought before, but making handles does sound interesting. have to go to a couple of barn sales this summer to get some old wood knives. found this good info on making your own.
http://northernwoodlands.org/knots_and_bolts/make-your-own-axe-handle/
thanks for the help. big community out there that focuses on axes: ie. wood grain, weight, metallurgy, etc.
-joe
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You want the grain in the handle just like a baseball bat so the grain is in line with the head .Ames if you can find them makes a good hickory handle .
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I know this is rather late to reply. I came across this post by accident and figured I'd throw in my two-cents from personal experience in hopes it may help someone. I've replaced quite a few axe/maul handles, and the best thing to do from my experience is only fit and install a new wood handle in the dead of winter when the humidity has been real low. The wood is at maximum shrinkage then, so you will get a tight fit year round. I use a "four-in-one rasp and file" for the rough work. Then when the handle is getting closer to fit I resort to my pocket knife. I often make my own wedge because the ones that come with the handle do not have enough taper to my liking. As another fellow said select a handle with the grain running in same direction as you swing the tool. I tend to look for handles at country hardware stores during my business trips to rural areas; otherwise, Ace has had some fairly decent handles and selection. My handles don't get loose. I had to order from the internet a handle for my eye-hoe once.
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Probably the hardest handle to find and the most costly is for a tire bead buster .On that I don't know of any tool that can wear you out faster than swinging one of those .