Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: jmester on July 30, 2014, 09:04:24 pm
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Lost the ring keeper pin let the ring spin around and caught the exhaust port and wasted the piston and cylinder.
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The hole is egged out well the pin just falls out. What are some thoughts as to what happen to cause the pin to come loose? Have never seen one do that. And does any one have a good source for a oem piston and cylinder.
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Spike60 can get you a new C/P. Is the saw still in warranty? That is a DEFECTIVE piston, should be covered under warranty!
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The saw is a 2011 don't think there is any left. Any other things that would cause the pin to come loose like that. I have a stihl 361 from the same guy the had the top ring pin push back in to the piston and rotated around and caught the transfer. The p/c is aftermarket on the stihl. So not a big surprise to find something out of place there. Still would like to know what can cause it to happen or is it just a faulty piston from the factory.
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It's a common issue on the 562, has been happening to a lot of people.
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Is the C/P from Mahle? Just curious.
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It's a common issue on the 562, has been happening to a lot of people.
First I've heard of this and I spend way too much time on several chainsaw sites...
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Today is the first I've heard of it. Stopped by AS and heard it now here. Bothers me as I recently got a 562.
Shep
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Bothers me also, since I have a brand new one sitting in the shop. Now I am afraid to sell it.
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It's a common issue on the 562, has been happening to a lot of people.
First I've heard of this and I spend way too much time on several chainsaw sites...
I know one shop with a container full of 562's that have had that issue among a few others. Seems to be all models, not just the pre 2013 models. I sold mine last week, ticking time bombs.
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I don't understand it EHP has been running ported 562's logging w/no trouble. He's right @2 million BF falling. The only prob he had heard of was carb. but no problems w/ his 2.
Shep
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If this was a wide spread problem it'd be all over AS. Not a thread over there about it.
My 562 is a 2011 model and no issues at all. Love that dang saw!
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Very common issue on the 562's husqvarna is very much aware of it. I work at the shop adam was talking about. Any saw pre 2013 39 serial numbers are pretty much not if its gonna happen its when. I had a 2011 model with 5 minutes on it have that pin back out. The damage to yours is very minimal compared to what ive seen
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Very common issue on the 562's husqvarna is very much aware of it. I work at the shop adam was talking about. Any saw pre 2013 39 serial numbers are pretty much not if its gonna happen its when. I had a 2011 model with 5 minutes on it have that pin back out. The damage to yours is very minimal compared to what ive seen
Mine is apart for a slight score ex. side I got it that way. If I order a replacement piston instead of cleaning it up can I be sure to get a good piston?
Shep
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Piston is a mahle. Can't say for sure on the cylinder to much crud. But would assume that it is mahle as well.
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I have a thread about it on AS.
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If it is that much of a problem has husqvarna put out a service bulletin on it.
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Farm boy the newer 2013 39 saws are not having the issues aside from hot start and deco valves airleaking
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What is the link to your thread on as would like to read it.
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I have a thread about it on AS.
I seen it over there back in May. Blugill did too as he posted in the thread.
Little more you shared below on subject.
Yeah any other techs seeing this? Homeowners buying them i havnt seen but one issue and that was ring locator pin. Its the logging, fire, and brush crews having issues guys who run em 8-10 hours a day. And yes the auto tune can compensate for an airleak but indicators will be there. Also have a few saws in getting the new el48 carb on them due to hot start issues. Resetting ignition module airgap to 9 thousandths and sparkplug to 16 thousandths. Anyone else dealing with these chime in please.
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Just a heads up ive had 7 come threw blown up due to airleak through a closed decomp valve. They are not sealing properly these are newer saws no carbon build up present.
Its the 2011to early 2013 models with issues. Although just got another decomp leeker this morning took out top end. The 60 saws we plugged decomp hole off have had no issues.
The valves on the now 9 saws are being shipped to husqvarna for "research"
An airleak is an Airleak. causing saw to run way past highest rpm and lean fuel mix. Ever had a case seal get an airleak? Its the same thing. Its less noticeable on auto tunes.
Guess i should have clarified case gasket under cylinder in front of exhaust port. No there wouldnt be a spray of oil out of a decomp. Do a leekdown test and unit will not hold vacuum or pressure. Soapy water sprayed all around cylinder (as best as possible and on intake and spark plug and decomp) Pump up pressure and creating goodsize bubbles rapidly. Gauge wont hold any pressure. Just sent the units in question back to Husqvarna for further testing
Whats the deal with the decomps failing and taking the tops out you talk about?
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Thanks for pulling the info over from AS. The deco valves are airleaking causing lean mix ratio and taking out the topends. I haven't had any of the newer 2013 39's come in since i plugged the deco. Had a couple 2013 39's come in with the ring locator pin issue however after getting sent back to sweden it was discovered to be an "accidental" mix up and a batch of those came through with 2011 pistons. I bought adam32's 562 to mess with. The main issues ive seen come through are uneven case halves under exhaust side cylinder, intake boot being crimped where carb connects, deco valves leaking, piston locator pin, and not a killer of the saw but annoying the muffler cooks the case gasket causing a small amount of bar oil to pool under muffler.
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I know the new one I have is a 2013 but will have to check for week 39. I'll let you guys know in a bit.
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The new, never gassed one I have is 2013 week 34. I got this one from Spike60, what you guys think I should be doing with it?
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I seen it over there back in May. Blugill did too as he posted in the thread.
Well, I stand corrected. I really do not remember reading about any ring locator pin problems?
My early 2011 model has around 25 tanks through it (it doesn't get the use my 346s' get). Is this something I need to fix before it happens???
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It seems to me a leaky decomp valve would just lower comp, not pull air in to cause lean mix? What am I missing here?
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I seen it over there back in May. Blugill did too as he posted in the thread.
Well, I stand corrected. I really do not remember reading about any ring locator pin problems?
My early 2011 model has around 25 tanks through it (it doesn't get the use my 346s' get). Is this something I need to fix before it happens???
Bluegill post pulled from the thread in May.
I have 7 documented here. Its a problem elsewhere also. I work at a shop in northern california. Servicing most of the fire crews around this area. They are having lots of issues up until the newest serial numbers 2013 39 they fixed alot of the issues. When the fire crews get a new saw the decomp gets pulled and plugged now. I have a storage container full of toasted saws ring locator pin ,case halves not lining up under cylinder blown up saws. The fire guys have it great. They blow one up and husqvarna sends them a new one
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Just because it isnt in print doesn't mean it isnt being kept under wraps by the company. JMO. Just like pulling the 661 back off the market.
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Asked Bob about it, he can't find anything on HVA nor has he seen the piston problem.
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If husky is dissecting saws to figure out what is going on with ones sent back. I doubt anything has been out on SB's etc. JMO I dont care one way or another.
But understand why dealers and husky wouldnt want stuff getting out. It would hurt bottom line sales.
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I'm starting to remember that thread now, but some how must have missed the ring locator issue?
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Lost the ring keeper pin let the ring spin around and caught the exhaust port and wasted the piston and cylinder.
The saw you got in came from the NY NJ area didnt it?
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I was just thinking. What are you guys talking maybe 10-15 saw failures out of how many maybe thousands sold. Just like anything new IMO even cars first 2 years you work through the bugs and do upgrades when needed.
Many of folks have no problems from these saws, stock and ported.
If I had one I would run them like I stole and not worry.
I would imagine firefighting guys are putting saws through hell during their burn work. Most probably dont know when something is wrong and just keep running the pizz out of them. Just like the guy I loaned a 60cc saw to while I was working on his 310. The impulse line came off and he new something wasnt right, but ran it at half choke and continued on. When I got the saw back it was scored up.
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Right after that happened to you, I watched my DIL's father run her plastic 45cc Homelite with a plugged filter and with the choke "ON" until it wouldn't run any more. He wouldn't quit. I kept saying lets put it on my truck and I'll put a new filter on it. He ran it until he couldn't get it to run any more.
When I got it home and replaced the filter, it seemed fine though. Probably because the saw is not such a highly tuned device? It never run more than about 7000 in the cut even when new.
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I know of a LOT of cooked 560's, don't get the 562 here.
There is a bunch of corrections and changes in 560, but it still won't do.
I think the engine type is the cause. They run lean with symptoms of airleak.
Heat development that cause a bunch of things.
Cooked top ends, broken cranks, cases etc
http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17587
http://masterblasterhome.com/showthread.php?16139-Husqvarna-562xp
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Lost the ring keeper pin let the ring spin around and caught the exhaust port and wasted the piston and cylinder.
The saw you got in came from the NY NJ area didnt it?
Came from Maryland
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the 562 I'm cutting with is the first 562 I ever got and the piston is cut to hell in it .080 above ring land , side ports inlarged a ton and motor screams hard all day long and no problems of any kind , in this heat it runs alot better than the carb saws, I have not seen or ever heard of a piston problem up here nor has Red ever said anything of a problem as he has sold a ton of 562's , biggest problem is the carb setup but once you figure out how to make them run proper that is not a problem either . I NEVER use the decompressure of any 562 or 365/372xt ever
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I'm keeping a ported 357xp around, but would rather run the stock 562xp, as it cuts faster. I ain't worried at all. ;D
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I'm keeping a ported 357xp around, but would rather run the stock 562xp, as it cuts faster. I ain't worried at all. ;D
At husky dealer I tested 357xp with 20" and 562xp with 20" both filled up ready to use. I couldnt tell abit of difference in the weight of either. Felt the same.
I liked 3/8 on my 357. new CL pretty dang dull off the reel.
http://youtu.be/IZJeepcpaN8
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My WP359's have a "HOME"!
Still don't understand the piston issue some areas major problems other areas none. I'm serious here could oil ratio be a contributing factor? I know EHP runs 32:1. It just doesn't make sense.
Shep
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Bill, not sure I understand your question. However I run 32:1 in all my personal saws also.
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So a stock 562 is faster than a ported 357???
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So a stock 562 is faster than a ported 357???
Not where I live.
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So a stock 562 is faster than a ported 357???
I ported my 357 and it's a keeper! But my stock muff modded 562 is a little faster. I've been thinking of sending the 357 to Mitch and have him do it up right. But I'm happy with how both saws run as they are.
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At husky dealer I tested 357xp with 20" and 562xp with 20" both filled up ready to use. I couldnt tell abit of difference in the weight of either. Felt the same.
I liked 3/8 on my 357. new CL pretty dang dull off the reel.
Not much diff in weight at all. the 555 feels a bit lightersmaller though.
That 357 is cuttin very nice man!
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yup...every where except where Art lives
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yup...every where except where Art lives
Your right Jeff, and your old 2159 won the 0-60 class at the EX today. Second place? ;)
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I can say for sure the saw that I am working on the guy runs 50:1. And his guys abuse his saws. Most always come back with cooked cylinders. I would have to say that if there are not a lot of guys seeing ring locator pin issues or just in some areas would have to say it has to do with the end operator and his fuel mix. Unless the auto tune gets screwy in certain areas, but I doubt it. Need to have the talk with him about at least running 40:1 from now on and hope his failure rate goes down.
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Bill, not sure I understand your question. However I run 32:1 in all my personal saws also.
Not really a question. I wonder if the lack of oil (50:1) was a contributing factor in the piston failures.
Shep
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Does the 555/2258 have the same issue as those 562's? Or do their slightly different top ends avoid the issues? One of the posts prior (Think it was Magnus) implied the engine type might be the issues. What about 550xp's?
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At husky dealer I tested 357xp with 20" and 562xp with 20" both filled up ready to use. I couldnt tell abit of difference in the weight of either. Felt the same.
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There isn't much weight difference between the 562xp and the 357xp.
However the 560xp, 2260, 555 and 2258 are about halv a pound lighter (small bar mount, and lower air filter/cover).
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Looks like about 5 ounces difference in PHO weight dry between husqvarna 555 and 562
Me I would prefer the small mount and even lighter bar weight, of the husqvarna 555 560xp or the jonsered 2260. What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
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Looks like about 5 ounces difference in PHO weight dry between husqvarna 555 and 562
Me I would prefer the small mount and even lighter bar weight, of the husqvarna 555 560xp or the jonsered 2260. What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
Thanks for the info... To do over, I'd take the 555 over the 562xp. I also prefer the small mount and 5 ounces less...
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..... What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
???? The 2158 is the 555 in red.
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Looks like about 5 ounces difference in PHO weight dry between husqvarna 555 and 562
Me I would prefer the small mount and even lighter bar weight, of the husqvarna 555 560xp or the jonsered 2260. What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
Thanks for the info... To do over, I'd take the 555 over the 562xp. I also prefer the small mount and 5 ounces less...
The 560xp was the original, and likely should have been the main xp model on all markets.
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..... What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
???? The 2158 is the 555 in red.
Should have read like this. What is the 555 version of jonsered? 2258? Left out a ?
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the problem is a heat problem, the piston is growing faster than a normal piston in a normal saw like a 357, 372 so as the piston heats up to the point where the piston grows more than the steel pin so the pin comes loose , this can be caused by more than a couple things BUT the biggest thing is the muffler is choked off to the point the cylinder is running real hot , just feel the air coming off the flywheel on a stock 562 after a long hard cut , its real hot and in my small mind its to hot to last , my ported 562's run alot cooler than a stock 562
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Another good reason to open up the muffler!
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Thanks EHP. +1
I am not that versed in the auto tune yet. Will the auto tune be able to compensate for opening up the muffler? How have some of you guys done your muffler mod? I usually used the husky screen and cover.
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..... What is the 555 version of jonsered 2258?
???? The 2158 is the 555 in red.
Should have read like this. What is the 555 version of jonsered? 2258? Left out a ?
;D
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That could be why the fire guys are burning up so many. They have to keep them stock, even a muffler mod with a screen is illegal.
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Thanks EHP. +1
I am not that versed in the auto tune yet. Will the auto tune be able to compensate for opening up the muffler? How have some of you guys done your muffler mod? I usually used the husky screen and cover.
Autotune will compensate for MM & more.
Shep
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yup...no adjusting,cutting off plastic covers....nope the carb does it automatically for you
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yup...every where except where Art lives
Your right Jeff, and your old 2159 won the 0-60 class at the EX today. Second place? ;)
yup a 562 came second.... stock with a round chain Ill bet...now do work on that 562
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Any one have any pics of how they have done a mm? Sure I could figure it out but would like to see what some of you guys have done.
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Most I seen was under original deflector and opened up or hole right beside the oem one under deflector.
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I had a second outlet on the side of mine. Stihls066 has it now so might post a pic. The best way is to cut it in half and remove everything, they run much cooler and I know one guy running a 32" on his no problem.
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yup...every where except where Art lives
Your right Jeff, and your old 2159 won the 0-60 class at the EX today. Second place? ;)
yup a 562 came second.... stock with a round chain Ill bet...now do work on that 562
You know that the 562 was ported. Both saws and chains came from the same place.
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That could be why the fire guys are burning up so many. They have to keep them stock, even a muffler mod with a screen is illegal.
Agree and probably 50:1 as per manual.
Shep
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yup...every where except where Art lives
Your right Jeff, and your old 2159 won the 0-60 class at the EX today. Second place? ;)
yup a 562 came second.... stock with a round chain Ill bet...now do work on that 562
You know that the 562 was ported. Both saws and chains came from the same place.
I was figuring they were the 2 ported ones I seen in video's of yours. ;) ;D
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Cut the muffler in half. Cut the center of the baffle out. And enlarge the outlet hole. Started to braze back together and ran out of oxygen. Will have to finish it up tomorrow.
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Isnt it neat how we can act like adults here and try and figure out what is going on with a problem in a saw. Instead of throwing our hands up like on AnotherSite and holler chicken little and crucify saws and folks for posting their info.
Learning from you guys everyday. Keep up the info.
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Isnt it neat how we can act like adults here and try and figure out what is going on with a problem in a saw. Instead of throwing our hands up like on AnotherSite and holler chicken little and crucify saws and folks for posting their info.
Learning from you guys everyday. Keep up the info.
Well said Kevin! +1
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Isnt it neat how we can act like adults here and try and figure out what is going on with a problem in a saw. Instead of throwing our hands up like on AnotherSite and holler chicken little and crucify saws and folks for posting their info.
Learning from you guys everyday. Keep up the info.
Nice ain't it? ;D
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what kind of oil are you using?
you're dumb!
no he's an idiot!
you don't know squat!
the chain is on backwards
there ;D
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Got it brazed together. And smoothed out. Get a couple coats of paint and should be good to go.
Yes it is nice to not have to read threw 20 post of nothing to get to something worth while.
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Isnt it neat how we can act like adults here and try and figure out what is going on with a problem in a saw. Instead of throwing our hands up like on AnotherSite and holler chicken little and crucify saws and folks for posting their info.
Learning from you guys everyday. Keep up the info.
+1
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Farm boy the newer 2013 39 saws are not having the issues aside from hot start and deco valves airleaking
Replaced many decomp valves. Some burnt to the ground before the user noticed.
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Mitch, I can see a bad decomp lowering comp, but I don't see how air can be sucked in there? Care to explain.
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Mitch, I can see a bad decomp lowering comp, but I don't see how air can be sucked in there? Care to explain.
I don't believe air does get sucked in. Warm days and hours of the software attempting to make a spec rpm/hp on a saw with very low compression is likely the cause. The few I hooked up were very lean.
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I don't believe air does get sucked in. Warm days and hours of the software attempting to make a spec rpm/hp on a saw with very low compression is likely the cause. The few I hooked up were very lean.
OK, now that makes sense. Thanks.
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Hmmmmm I didnt time. But I wouldnt count the 1st two cuts by 562 hitting the knots.
562xp
16.3
15.6
13.8
Solo 655
13.6
13.5
13.4
http://youtu.be/mN-97C3_ufY
http://youtu.be/7zdQWyCpz_k
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JFYI the 562xp was woods ported in the video. Go stock unbroken in 665 go.
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No surprises there.
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No surprises there.
I thought the 562 was stock in video. Then found out it was woods ported. :-X :o
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By? Woods ported doesn't mean anything depending on who did it.
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I will PM you Mitch. Very very known. I was floored when I found out it was ported and by whom.
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Solo ;)
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Mitch, I can see a bad decomp lowering comp, but I don't see how air can be sucked in there? Care to explain.
I don't believe air does get sucked in. Warm days and hours of the software attempting to make a spec rpm/hp on a saw with very low compression is likely the cause. The few I hooked up were very lean.
I think i'll just plug mine when I put it back together. Another note what about using a Stihl decomp from 361,391, 441. Not heard of any probs on them leaking.
Shep
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I will PM you Mitch. Very very known. I was floored when I found out it was ported and by whom.
It does make a diff who ports it and if they are having a good day, or not. I ran my muff modded 562 against a ported one and a ported ms362. It ran right with the ported 562 and was faster than the ported ms362.
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I will PM you Mitch. Very very known. I was floored when I found out it was ported and by whom.
It does make a diff who ports it and if they are having a good day, or not. I ran my muff modded 562 against a ported one and a ported ms362. It ran right with the ported 562 and was faster than the ported ms362.
I was shocked to say the least. Goooooo 665. Glad the other guy didnt do the stock 562 against his unbroken in 665 now in dry 12x12 cant. It could have been ugly.
It makes me trust the guys I know that can make a strong saw even more now. Not just talk and hype of new guys not really knowing what is a good one is.
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Thats what im seeing mitch. Lean seizure due to deco valve leeking. I started plugging every deco coming through on the auto tunes. Videoed a 545 that came in the other day that customer said kept stalling. Sprayed soapy water on deco and bubble ville. Saw was only 2 months old moderate use and was at 120 comp
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Does husky pre install the piston pin clip in one side like stihl does on a new piston and cylinder kit?
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Does husky pre install the piston pin clip in one side like stihl does on a new piston and cylinder kit?
Not in my experience does HVA do that, even on a Stihl repair I check the pre-installed clip just to make sure.
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Well I tore it back down to make sure. And yes there was one in there. I remember checking to see if it was in there. Then put it together and could not remember if it was there.
Any thing special I need to do when I first start this saw? This is my first to rebuild an auto tune saw or even start or run one for that matter.
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The factory specifies/suggests that the AT computer be reset using the Auto-Tune software after a major rebuild.
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I got the diagnostic tool from hva. And have already reset the autotune. Any thing else that may come to mind?
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Got it going today. Not a bad saw. Pretty cool to just start it and go with no adjustments. Thanks for the help.
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No surprises there.
I thought the 562 was stock in video. Then found out it was woods ported. :-X :o
Would the new crankshaft in the 562 effect its performance?
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Unlikely that you could tell a difference
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Just warrantied a 545 husky with deco air leak. New top end. Showed up with one side of piston circlip preinstalled. And that was the only circlip included. Makes lots of sense
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This deco air leak anomaly with the "AT" Husqvarna's makes me wonder about down the road when one gets low compression? Is the computer going to gall the piston?
So you couldn't get away with just a ring job? You would need a piston and possibly a cylinder too?
Personally, I don't like to reuse a shiny piston in a chainsaw anyway. If the machine marks are gone on the intake side, it gets replaced.
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Would any body have a use for a pair of transfer covers?
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all I can say is I have cut a **** load of timber with my 562 and most of what I cut is a good size , I cut some stuff last week that is in the 50 inch on the stump range in hard maple and red oak, most of the ash is in the 36 inch range , my 562 is the best running saw I got as it seems to handle the heat real good where most saws donot work well in the heat , as stock 562 doesnot work well in that heat
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Tim didnt Dex say the broke in stock 562 with about 50 tanks through it cut in the 9-10 second range in same cant during his testing. Only thing it didnt use same chain as the other 2, but a new woodsman pro. All chains were new out of box.
2.5 tanks through the 665
Solo 665
1- 6.2 sec
2- 5.7 sec
3- 5.5 sec
ported MS 362C-M
1- 6.8 sec
2- 6.1 sec
3- 6.2 sec
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PwMMvM_6cqc
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Bump for Jeff. The video with 562 involved with other 2 was deleted. It was embarrassing for the stock 562.
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all I can say is I have cut a **** load of timber with my 562 and most of what I cut is a good size , I cut some stuff last week that is in the 50 inch on the stump range in hard maple and red oak, most of the ash is in the 36 inch range , my 562 is the best running saw I got as it seems to handle the heat real good where most saws donot work well in the heat , as stock 562 doesnot work well in that heat
365 XT
Its about 170 pounds right now but will tighten it up abit once I'm sure the saw can live cutting 50 inch oak and I got a pile of those to cut , its about 1/3 faster than my ported 562 in 20 inch ash so once broken in I think it will be pretty good plus I have not touched the flywheel yet and that makes a fair change in power , its the piston it came with .
Ed are you saying that 365 XT is smoking the ported 562 of yours by 1/3 faster in 20" ash.
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my ported 365 is 30 % faster than my ported 562 but I'm going to do more work on my 365 as I left it pretty low on compression just to break it in so I'm going to be better than 30% once I'm finished and the 365 runs 24 inch or 28 inch bar and saw is a worksaw
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my ported 365 is 30 % faster than my ported 562 but I'm going to do more work on my 365 as I left it pretty low on compression just to break it in so I'm going to be better than 30% once I'm finished and the 365 runs 24 inch or 28 inch bar and saw is a worksaw
Nice. I thought 170lbs was good for it and those gains. Least thats all I would want is 170-180 on a work saw.
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I'm going to go for more on this saw as I am running it and am advancing the flywheel quite abit ,if its abit to hot I can back it down pretty easy but I'm sure it will live very well, I got a friend here that cuts firewood and the ported 372 xt's is all he runs and the flywheel is advanced alot of his saws and he has no trouble at all and runs a 24 inch bar most of the time , Jug is in the lathe right now
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Called for a piston warranty and husqvarna said no we will do a new topend so just went with it.
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Ed, more advance and cutting the base?
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I left the squish huge on this 365 just to break it in, I am lowering the squish now as I will need this saw in a couple weeks to cut big red oak , The 562 will do it but the 365 is faster so why not use it . The 365/372 likes the flywheel advanced just watch you donot go to far as that causes more heat built in the motor , I donot want high compression like lots of guys are building . I never want to see 200 pounds in a worksaw and like 170 to 180 better and with todays gas being so shitty that is about all you want in a saw doing long hard cuts , sure if you leave your transfer and ext. ports low you can raise the compression but you will not make any power at a higher rpm , I like to see 12,000 plus rpms for my true in the wood under load rpm
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Would any body have a use for a pair of transfer covers?
Be handy to bolt onto a 555...
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Would any body have a use for a pair of transfer covers?
Be handy to bolt onto a 555...
Somebody here was looking for a set of covers for build.
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Bump for Jeff. The video with 562 involved with other 2 was deleted. It was embarrassing for the stock 562.
I guess not all 562s' are created equal. Sounds like you had a dud there. ;D
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Bump for Jeff. The video with 562 involved with other 2 was deleted. It was embarrassing for the stock 562.
I guess not all 562s' are created equal. Sounds like you had a dud there. ;D
Not me and 2 different stock 665 run so far so not a fluke. The 562 has 50 tanks through it and was 9-10 seconds in cant where a stock 665 with 2.5 tanks was going 5-6 seconds.
Then again the 2 stock 665 out cut the woods ported 562 and the woods ported 362 C-M too. :o
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I've run a couple 562s' that I wasn't very impressed with, one was ported. So far after 2.5 years I'm still impressed with my 562. Like I said, I don't believe they're all created equal. I would like to try a 665 at some point, but I've never seen one.
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what your going to find with either the 562 or the 550 is this , if you run the saw easy it becomes set to that way of work and is lazy , if you limb small wood all the time or cut real small stuff it does the same thing , I cut 1500 apple trees down with my 550 after I used the saw to cut firewood and after cutting those apple trees it became 1 lazy mother , One of my friends needed a saw so I gave it to him and it took about 60 face cord of cutting firewood before it started to run strong again , Pete who cuts firewood bought a new 562 and babied it and hated it but ran my stock 562 and said it was night and day stronger than his and my saw did not have the bog in it like his did , he took his back to the dealer and traded it in on a new 372xt
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EHP, How do you run them right so they are not lazy? I am buying Tim's 562xp. I want it to run strong. I will be using a 24inch bar with full chisel chain.
Thanks
Jason
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I am buying Tim's 562xp. I want it to run strong. I will be using a 24inch bar with full chisel chain.
Thanks
Jason
You stole that saw. But you already know that. ;)
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what your going to find with either the 562 or the 550 is this , if you run the saw easy it becomes set to that way of work and is lazy , if you limb small wood all the time or cut real small stuff it does the same thing , I cut 1500 apple trees down with my 550 after I used the saw to cut firewood and after cutting those apple trees it became 1 lazy mother , One of my friends needed a saw so I gave it to him and it took about 60 face cord of cutting firewood before it started to run strong again , Pete who cuts firewood bought a new 562 and babied it and hated it but ran my stock 562 and said it was night and day stronger than his and my saw did not have the bog in it like his did , he took his back to the dealer and traded it in on a new 372xt
Been wondering if the auto tune and CM for that matter worked that way. See a big difference in my 241 and the others we sold.
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I've run a couple 562s' that I wasn't very impressed with, one was ported. So far after 2.5 years I'm still impressed with my 562. Like I said, I don't believe they're all created equal. I would like to try a 665 at some point, but I've never seen one.
I see a large problem with comparing the Solo 665 to the true 60cc saws - it is a much heavier and bulkier saw, so much that it pulls it firmly out of the 60cc class.
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Jason, do what EHP said, run the snot out of it in big wood from day 1!
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Tim, So you are saying work it hard as I can. For how long and how many tanks before I back off?
Thanks
Jason
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I'm trying to figure out why Husqvarna would design a micro processor based tuning package and have it set carburetor and ignition parameters using a cumulative run-time trend based on how the saw was run the last few tanks of fuel. Half-assed engineering if they aren't taking advantage of real time information and making continuous adjustment.
.
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Unfortunately that may have been the only option open to them since the fast data storage/retrieval capacity of the MP is usually limited, and the processing power of the MP may also be limited in its' ability to process simultaneous data streams in real-time. Whole bunch of computer speak that says they did not have enough compute power or cash to do it a better way. They had to have a known trend on which to make adjustments to because the chip was not powerful enough to figure it out new each and every time the engine was run.
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Tim, did a little reading on the system and from what I understand, the processor does indeed make continues adjustments during operation AFTER the initial and complete run in has be performed. That run in is crucial to setting baseline tuning, after that the sensors and processor make small tuning changes. If the prescribed run in isn't done properly, which calls for WOT in wood for X amount of time, the saw stays in the default mode. Seems to me that this may be the issue with the saws that folks are complaining about low power?
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I find if you take it easy on the 562 out of the box the saw goes lean once you put it to hard work and never makes any power , I just run the saw like any other saw . I go fall timber with it right off the start and have no problems at all and mine seem to run alot better and no bog, the best temp I found my ported 562 likes is in the -20's to -30's below C , the jetting is good there, its pretty good again at over 30 C compared to most saws
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Ed, amazing it runs good over such a wide temp range. regular carb you'd be farting with the needles to get it right
any idea what parameters the processor samples for tuning? i.e exhaust gas temp, fuel flow?
Adam
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ext. temp looks to be around 1100 degrees so yes its still abit rich but it takes fuel to make power and to help keep it cool, , as far as the rest goes like the BMEP I keep mine in the safe zone , stuff like that just give your head things to think about and on a worksaw they really donot have a big things , worksaw is more about building a saw that runs well, last long time and has no problems
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here is a red oak the 562 cut today, I cut alot of timber this size so for the 562 to hold up cutting this long speaks alot about what it can do
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whit ash and red oak
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cool pictures. the Red Oak looks like it has some nice figure to the grain. whats it used for?
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what your going to find with either the 562 or the 550 is this , if you run the saw easy it becomes set to that way of work and is lazy , if you limb small wood all the time or cut real small stuff it does the same thing , I cut 1500 apple trees down with my 550 after I used the saw to cut firewood and after cutting those apple trees it became 1 lazy mother , One of my friends needed a saw so I gave it to him and it took about 60 face cord of cutting firewood before it started to run strong again , Pete who cuts firewood bought a new 562 and babied it and hated it but ran my stock 562 and said it was night and day stronger than his and my saw did not have the bog in it like his did , he took his back to the dealer and traded it in on a new 372xt
I wonder if you reset computer, ran in hard if it would solve this laziness. Just a thought 60 tanks is a lot.
Shep
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I see a large problem with comparing the Solo 665 to the true 60cc saws - it is a much heavier and bulkier saw, so much that it pulls it firmly out of the 60cc class.
I figured something like that. Kind of like comparing a Husky 365 to a 562xp...
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I see a large problem with comparing the Solo 665 to the true 60cc saws - it is a much heavier and bulkier saw, so much that it pulls it firmly out of the 60cc class.
I figured something like that. Kind of like comparing a Husky 365 to a 562xp...
You got to realize this was just for 65cc and under comparison. Someone said throw a stock 562 in the mix. One guy even said a stock 562 would rule the roost.
Well he added a woods ported 562 and another one a woods ported 362 in the mix. They both got owned by a stock 665 in the cut. Let alone the stock 562.
Handling wise a 665 would be like my heavy azz poulan 415. Just not what you want for handling all day. JMO at 65cc.
Now weight at 81cc and 83cc yes.
Comparison wasnt about handling or weight. It was about stock power in the cut.
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I see a large problem with comparing the Solo 665 to the true 60cc saws - it is a much heavier and bulkier saw, so much that it pulls it firmly out of the 60cc class.
I figured something like that. Kind of like comparing a Husky 365 to a 562xp...
Worse, regarding weight - but as he said it was besides the point in that comparison.
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red oak is just used to make lumber, its not good red oak which goes for sciler . I cut 12 more that size today plus 26 white ash like the ones in the picture so a good day , cut skid and cut up and pile , good long day
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Tim, did a little reading on the system and from what I understand, the processor does indeed make continues adjustments during operation AFTER the initial and complete run in has be performed. That run in is crucial to setting baseline tuning, after that the sensors and processor make small tuning changes. If the prescribed run in isn't done properly, which calls for WOT in wood for X amount of time, the saw stays in the default mode. Seems to me that this may be the issue with the saws that folks are complaining about low power?
Adam, I agree, the saw does make continuous adjustments based on the baseline model however the processor probably does not have the power to adjust the saw during the current run and adjust the baseline calculations at the same time. Probably why it is so important to get the initial baseline done properly, because everything after that is just a run time adjustment to the initial baseline.
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Tim,
That makes sense, makes small adjustments base on the initial run in which sets the saw up for altitude/temp, etc.
Anyone take one of these saws from sea level to high altitude? I'm curious if the processor has enough "authority" to make a 1/8-1/4 "turn" adjustment or does the saw run like crap for 4-5 tanks til things get slowly changed?
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Anyone take one of these saws from sea level to high altitude? I'm curious if the processor has enough "authority" to make a 1/8-1/4 "turn" adjustment or does the saw run like crap for 4-5 tanks til things get slowly changed?
I had always wondered about that one myself.
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Tim,
That makes sense, makes small adjustments base on the initial run in which sets the saw up for altitude/temp, etc.
Anyone take one of these saws from sea level to high altitude? I'm curious if the processor has enough "authority" to make a 1/8-1/4 "turn" adjustment or does the saw run like crap for 4-5 tanks til things get slowly changed?
My local dealer said that you need to run it wide open for 5 minutes, it'll run like crap for those 5 minutes. Then shut it off and let it sit for 5 more minutes. Fire it back up and it should've readjusted itself...He told me that right after the 562's came out and he had just got back from Husky school.
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IDK Adam, HVA says that the e-proms' programming is supposed to have a fail-safe mechanism which sets the saw back to full-rich if for some reason there is some sort of out-of-bounds condition or system failure.
I am inclined to believe that if you did take the saw from sea-level to 6K feet above, that as soon as you started the saw the programming would realize that the baseline was WAY off of current conditions and knowing that it could not correct it (out-of-bounds), forces the saw into fail-safe mode resulting in the need to run it WFO for 5 minutes to set up a new baseline for the current environment.
I wonder if it does the same sort of thing if you did the baseline @0°F and did not run the saw again until it was 80°F?
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Just asked a friend who runs his 562 at sea level and cuts in National Forest at 5-6000 feet occasionally for firewood. He said it takes a couple of tanks for the saw to lean itself out...
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Hmmmmmmmm, I wonder then if the prom does store some data over time and SLOWLY reshapes the baseline operational parameters. ???
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Tim, I'd really like to know more about the system. You know anyone in the know at Husqvarna?
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Only a black female engineer I met years ago at the factory named Helica, I will send her a note to ask for design criteria info. Can't promise anything, as this sort of stuff is HVA intellectual property.
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believe me its not that smart, I have blocked the 3rd low speed hole completely off to help the bog . Its does adjust thou cause in summer here we get 100F quite often and in winter 30 below F so carb has to adjust at least 1/4 turn
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Sounds good! One of the techs at the local saw shop is bringing a 550, 562, and 540 by our equipment yard tomorrow so we can monkey around with them. He's bringing a spare muffler that were gonna open up and see how the saw reacts and time a few runs. I'll get some vid
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run the **** out of them
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Ed, how would you compare your ported 562's to any,6400 359,357 or 361/2 you've ever seen, from a 12 inch round GTG perspective?
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JFYI the 562xp was woods ported in the video. Go stock unbroken in 665 go.
from who...the guy in Tennesee that states Dollies 5100 and 562 are a waste of time to port because they don't respond...
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JFYI the 562xp was woods ported in the video. Go stock unbroken in 665 go.
from who...the guy in Tennesee that states Dollies 5100 and 562 are a waste of time to port because they don't respond...
Sounds like a guy in Ohio to me, not TN.
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Jeff, round 5 between the 562 and the 2159 is coming this weekend. Score so far:
2159-4 wins
562-0
Gotta like those 2159's. If we race enough the 562 is bound to win one for sure. I think he kept the carbed 562. Can't remember.
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and a 562 vs 362 is coming to youtube soon ;D
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Good, can't wait to see how slow a 362 will cut up there. Bet its way behind. Down here in Stihl land however. ;)
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I raced against two over the weekend...spanked them both
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To quickly set the carb your supposed to put it in a continueous under load cut for 1-3 minutes per husqvarna.
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I have seen 562's that have went out of set and it takes 2 or more hours for themselves to reset , Most times they go out of set on the low side and go way to lean then they go way to rich and in some cases never reset themselves correct on their own
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I raced against two over the weekend...spanked them both
Spanked what two saws, with what saw??? That's vague as hell man! ;D
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I raced against two over the weekend...spanked them both
Spanked what two saws, with what saw??? That's vague as hell man! ;D
I know what Adam was talking about. ;) :D
Video in solo 665 thread. They used a stock unbroken in solo 665 and raced in big wood (real races) and got 4th on west coast with gooooooood chains being used.
I dont know anything about what was done to the 2 562's.
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I bumped the thread up gill. But just in case.
Posted by Adam Clarke = Artzer's brother in law raced 665 a couple weeks back and got 4th? place in the 4 cube stock appearing class. Less than a tank through the saw, all factory minus a small muffler mod and race chain. torquey little devil!!! lol!
Far as I understand a stock 665 with race chain. WOW WTG
Video info posted Published on Sep 3, 2014 Stock Solo 665 with a minor muffler mod. Brand new, still on it's first tank of gas. Spanked the Husky 562's that were running...lol
Adam Less than a tank through it before that vid was taken. Race chain. Sounded a little fat on first 3rd of the cut.
http://youtu.be/-M6UPoEr19c
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One 562 was stock the other had a full muffler mod.
The Solo 665 was stock with a muff mod, the Solo 662 that I ran is ported pretty good.
I took 2nd behind Harrisons Dolmar 120, less then a second behind.
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Cool, those Solos look impressive! Little diff size & weight class, eh?
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Does anyone actually use the decompressor thing ? I used mine once just to see what happened and it seemed worthless, I have asked a couple other 562xp owners and they said they don't use the decompressor so that makes me wonder why Hunqvarna goes through the extra trouble and expense to install one ?
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I was starting a 372 yesterday and never used the decomp once. Have seen a few saws where I needed decomps though.
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It is rather common to not use the decompression on the 365 and 372XT versions which are pretty much the same saw except for the transfer covers.
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Cool, those Solos look impressive! Little diff size & weight class, eh?
They are very heavy, much heavier that the specs used to say.
I'd say they only are relevant with the lagest engine (81cc) - but opinions do of course vary.... ;)
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If them Solo's are that heavy, the weight difference alone would help make them cut faster all else being equal it would seem to me. Sound like a impressive saw though. But me and my bad back will I'll stick to the "lighter" huskys.
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If them Solo's are that heavy, the weight difference alone would help make them cut faster all else being equal it would seem to me. Sound like a impressive saw though. But me and my bad back will I'll stick to the "lighter" huskys.
Cutting cookies or blocking logs in the yard is one thing - use in the woods a totally different one.
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These Solo/Dolmar saws aren't very heavy. Saw "heaviness" is relative. They're light for a 5ci/81cc class saw. Just a few ounces heavier than a 372XP/XT and lighter than an MS441. That's a bit heavy in relation to a 'true' 60-65cc saw, but saws heavier than that are used in the woods all day/every day without issue. I wouldn't want to climb with one or take it road/trail clearing but..... They're not a 6ci blocking saw by any means. 8)
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solo 665 675 681 would say only ounces differences between the sister saws
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4630.0;attach=12480;image)
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Posted on CR-G
Guy says husky is warranting the broken crank in this 562.
(https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11078190_982485791776076_3625253885528795082_n.jpg?oh=d5129ffadaf5b3f0735b083d6002cfb4&oe=55B91AF4)
(https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11102929_982486018442720_689198170712880141_n.jpg?oh=54d64f96e25c249aed50228a46ac537e&oe=55BC0FA8)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/21235_982485901776065_8583929543176188920_n.jpg?oh=3791332eb2d512a6e10845ebf5ef026b&oe=55A5888A&__gda__=1436531413_36ca1d3b1e4d67adb1faaf6931eceda3)
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When I see a break like that in the radius below the crank threads it always makes me wonder if it really was a defect or impact wrench abuse.
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Guy says it was warranted as defect in crank by husky.
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Anyone put a tach on their 562xp? Tried mine today after a few tweaks and it only show 12700, 24" bar no load. Thought they went 13800-14000 with the Rev boost?
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Had a tach on the one I rebuild for a friend and do not remember where it was spinning at sorry.
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Been messing with transfer ports on a couple spare jugs. Most recent change pulls hard but lost rpm. Thinking the blow down is too low at rpm now.
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I will put a tach on my 562's , I think their higher in rpms than that
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Thanks Ed.
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Adam just reading online. Stock Max is listed at 14K
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Interesting
https://youtu.be/wmeJEzkT5dY
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Thanks for the in depth report about the muffler mod, I think the best way to get more power without risking reliability is buy a bigger saw
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The 550 I ran with muffler mod didnt seem to cut any better then my stock one. Just the muffler modded one was LOUD as all get out. To loud IMO.
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Would be interested to get the one back from my buddy I rebuilt and muffler modded and see where it is since I reset it. Not sure how he did his mm but I cut mine in half and removed the baffle or cage completely. My buddy that owns the saw says the mm pulls harder than the stock version.
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A/T should compensate for the less restrictive muffler. Played around with many different stinger lengths on my 562 muffler from a comical 11" down to just under 3"
Try this out sometime, changes in length are noticeable in different power ranges
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[img http://(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/Aclarke123/20150421_183743_zps9247e5db.jpg) (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/Aclarke123/media/20150421_183743_zps9247e5db.jpg.html)/img]
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the a/t can give a ton more fuel than what is needed stock, my own 562 is ported pretty hard and a huge ass hole in the muffler and even in -30 degree weather it ran fine , it ran better I felt at that temp . my 562 is alot stronger than a stock 372 but it should be , there is alot of metal missing in those ports
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holy **** batman , what in the hell is that for a muffler mod ;D, should be loud but I'm thinking I would have one hell of a time timing to fall timber with that ;D
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Sweet spot at about 3.5" cut it down to 2.95" and went away.
You guys remember the 056 stihl muffler? Had a tube inside the muffler protruding out the topside. Interesting to know the stihl engineers thinking on that design. Tube was purposely long and buried in the muffler...
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Hahahahahaha. I was just screwing around to see how the motor reacted!!! Joe ran some computer simulations on what I might expect at different lengths and rpm.
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A Poulan 4200-8500 has a tube that extends into the muffler. The exit out the side looks like what some guys do with pipe elbows for muffler mods. I'll have to shoot a few pics. They sure do sound good, and have lotsa torque. Not high winders however.....
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Interesting! The 056 had an interesting exhaust note when it was loaded up in a piece of wood. Maybe tuned for a specific rpm? Don't understand why mfg. Would go to the trouble unless there was a valid reason to go with the long pipe. Principle has merit IMO, not sure why it's not utilized more?
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I think the long pipe extending inside the muffler was for sound and nothing else.
To get any kind of benefit from a piped saw it has to be in line with the harmonics of the exhaust.
3 or 4 inches of pipe will not affect the exhaust in such a way as to benefit from those harmonics, how ever it could affect flow and sound.
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I think the long pipe extending inside the muffler was for sound and nothing else.
To get any kind of benefit from a piped saw it has to be in line with the harmonics of the exhaust.
3 or 4 inches of pipe will not affect the exhaust in such a way as to benefit from those harmonics, how ever it could affect flow and sound.
I agree, it's used to keep as much of the pressure wave of the exhaust port inside the muffler, thus reducing the harsh pop noise. There is an old dirt bike trick to cut slots in the protruding tube and crush that section of tube in so it snags more of the sound wave and recycles it back into the muffler. It mostly damps the really harsh frequencies.
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I'm guessing the folks that modify thier saw engines are mostly not using that saw to earn a living logging ? More likely for competition ?
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A lot that get paid by bd ft or loads of logs are running modded saws. They make more money with them.
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I run mod saws everyday , the more timber I put in the mill the more money I make .
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Got my 562xp back today from getting a new carburator, used it some and it's still about the same if you work it hard it's hard to start, I'm thinking of getting a different saw.
They gave me a different 562xp to use for a week while mine was getting fixed, I don't know how many hours were on that saw but pretty sure it's a lot, the cylinder fins are blue from I suspect being over heated over and over, the front of the muffler is sort of caved in I suspect that's also from over heating caused by the auto tune system.
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Overheating rather is the effect of bad cooling, due to restricted air flow?
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Easing up on restriction helps eliminate some of the 562's hot start issues ......muffler mod that is.
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Got my 562xp back today from getting a new carburator, used it some and it's still about the same if you work it hard it's hard to start, I'm thinking of getting a different saw.
They gave me a different 562xp to use for a week while mine was getting fixed, I don't know how many hours were on that saw but pretty sure it's a lot, the cylinder fins are blue from I suspect being over heated over and over, the front of the muffler is sort of caved in I suspect that's also from over heating caused by the auto tune system.
Muffler caved in is caused by jamming it into wood, my old 346s' are that way. Also, AT does not cause these saws to run hot.
I'm not sold on the new AT technology, but my 562 is over 3 years old and no problems at all.
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You could be right about the caved in muffler but it seems pretty clear to me that 562 they loaned me has been run very hot very many times, a muffler mod to make it run cooler and start better sounds nice but husqvarna should have done that not me. My 30+ year old husqvarna doesn't have those problems and I was expecting the new saw to be even better.
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You can blame the EPA for the strato charge design & choked up muffler. I've been running saws for over 30 years and am impressed with 562. Like I said, mines been a very good saw... Still like a ported 357xp better though. ;D
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I would like to know a little more about this "muffler mod"
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Well you can add a deflector on the side of the muffler to add another port and free up the flow or like I did on a buddies 562 and cut the muffler in half pull out the baffle and enlarge the existing outlet then braze or weld back together.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/husqvarna-288-muffler-deflector/50/
The link above has some good info on different deflectors and the husqvarna part number. EGT heat and air temp Heat are two different things. These motors stock build a fair amount of heat from EGT. The muffler mod will make them a bit louder but will help on the internal heat of the motor. Plus in helps on the overall air flow of the motor.
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Does anyone sell a mod muffler that's completly ready to bolt onto a 562xp ?
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Those deflectors I just mentioned above are bolt on. You will have to drill three holes in your muffler. I have not seen a muffler that has already been modded for sale. But I guess if you do enough searching any thing is possible.
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I could mod one for you but I'd have to buy it from the dealer. Then you have to pick what style outlet you want and where. There's others who could do it that may have a 562 to mock it up on.
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I could mod one for you but I'd have to buy it from the dealer. Then you have to pick what style outlet you want and where. There's others who could do it that may have a 562 to mock it up on.
Thanks for the replies folks.
With all the talk on here about muffler mods I kinda thought some outfit would be selling modded mufflers ready to bolt on but I guess not. I should probably leave it stock as long as it's under warranty.
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Terry at wicked work saw will do yours or sell you a modded one.
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Bump for weimedog
Watched part of your 562 video on YouTube. Around page 6 EHP talks about heat in the motor from slow exhaust flow. The one I worked on I cut the muffler in half. I used a cut off wheel. Saw is still in service and has not had any problems. Hope it helps
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How much louder than stock ?
?Bump for weimedog
Watched part of your 562 video on YouTube. Around page 6 EHP talks about heat in the motor from slow exhaust flow. The one I worked on I cut the muffler in half. I used a cut off wheel. Saw is still in service and has not had any problems. Hope it helps
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I don't remember exactly. But it was not that bad.
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Bump for weimedog
Watched part of your 562 video on YouTube. Around page 6 EHP talks about heat in the motor from slow exhaust flow. The one I worked on I cut the muffler in half. I used a cut off wheel. Saw is still in service and has not had any problems. Hope it helps
It does... By removing that internal baffle....that's a huge change! Which carb does it have and I guess obviously its not too lean...always worry as I don't really see a way to change the carb tune.
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Don't remember which carb as it was a couple years ago I worked on the saw. No lean running issues. The guy that owns the saw would have locked it up by now if it was. I asked the same question if the auto tune would supply enough fuel and a bunch of folks said yes to a muffler mod and more.
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the problem is a heat problem, the piston is growing faster than a normal piston in a normal saw like a 357, 372 so as the piston heats up to the point where the piston grows more than the steel pin so the pin comes loose , this can be caused by more than a couple things BUT the biggest thing is the muffler is choked off to the point the cylinder is running real hot , just feel the air coming off the flywheel on a stock 562 after a long hard cut , its real hot and in my small mind its to hot to last , my ported 562's run alot cooler than a stock 562
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One of the viewers asked a question about clearance between the transfer caps and the cases when either cutting the cylinder bases or building w/o base gasket. On mine, the flywheel side rear most corner of the transfer cap just about hits the cases. I can just get a "leaf" from a feeler gage through. On another set of cases I have it actually appears there is a wear spot EVEN though it had a base gasket therefore would need to be relieved. Is this typical? And since this would most likely effect how the transfers case to cylinder intersect... is this a potential problem and a possible reason why some are lean???
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The one I cut the other day had this problem.it had to be clearances a lot to sit down flat. The case was also A tiny bit off from each half. I don't think it would have sealed gasketless.
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I got just damn lucky on the one I built, going to pull it apart and measure the clearances anyway. I used a torch tip cleaner to "saw" from the back side through to the front to make certain. Actually the clutch side was fine, just the fly wheel side really close. Goo gasket has held to this point...a tank of gas! But going to yank it apart anyway.
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Guy working on a 562 shared this at the chainsaw repair FB group I do too.
Said he has been working on saws for 20 years at the shop. Never seen this before.
Derf on 562 carbs etc = There was some evidence of SOME saws having problems related to heat soak causing fuel vaporization and improper metering, mostly evidences as stumbling, and bogging, difficulty starting, especially after the saw was ran recently and is still hot.
Husqvarna upgraded the el44 carb to an el46 to address the problem, though there was still SOME continuing evidence that the problem persisted.
Then Husqvarna updated the top cover with a cutout (which your saw has) under warranty, and updated the carb again in 2016 to the el48. At that point most of the problems with the 562xp hot-start/bogging disappeared.
If you haven't experienced any of these symptoms, your saw is probably fine. Having an older carb doesn't mean it's a bad saw. But some buyers are choosy about what they buy.
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Wow broke that rod clean and then jammed into the cylinder like that. That is pretty wild.
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It is crazy.
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At least nothing came out of the saw and into the operator. Really got into those 562's. More going on than typically see on line with clearances though. Have to laugh when I go back and read some of the postings and issues, especially those with mods & an air leak to the transfers. Building my "Ultimate Old Man Saw" with a 555/562 blend HTSS style along with the new narrow kerf concept & light weight bar from Oregon, a Sugi will fill in until the stuff I want shows up :)
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2015 husqvarna 562 any issues with this year? I'm afraid to take one in on trade that looks like new still.
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Does it have the upgraded top cover with the extra hole for cooling? I know my 2016 550 was the first year for that upgrade.
My 2012 562 is still running strong with no issues other then hot start problems in 90° heat.
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This was a answer from Bob a 40 year plus retired NY jred husky dealer. On a question by a guy on the plastic caged bearings given up the ghost on all the folks pulp wood 562's etc. .
Also when the 562 came out with dished pistons in mid 2022.
= Well a few insites. And the cages aren't the actual problem. Depends on serial numbers, and are we talking fairly new saws or 4 to 5 year old models. There were some bad seals in Apr 20 to Apr 21. I saw it more on 550M2"s. They've made a lot of changes to the bottom ends. Even dropped the compression with a dished piston since mid 22. Apparently they didn't ruin it like the 262/261 deal. 🙂
Other than the run of bad seals, the lower end issues became fairly infrequent over the last few years. The actual seal issue was a bad lip that could simply drop the spring into the works. It was a vendor problem. The POSSIBLE bad seals covered almost a year, but only a small amount were actually bad. There was just no way to know where they went. The 550's I had a problem with were all built the same week. If they were gonna drop, it will happen quick. Saw them go between 7 and 20 hours. After the first 4, I went and replaced them on the rest before sale, and none of them failed.
One "advantage" of the nylon cage, and I know I'm going to get hammered and who's going to do the hammering, is if it goes, it melts and ends up in the muffler screen. Very obvious when you see it there. And it doesn't take out the top end. On a serious note, I talked to my contact in Sweden about the nylon vs steel thing and there are real advantages to the nylon cage and why Husky and Stihl are both using them. Lab and field testing consistently show this. They've changed an awful lot of stuff on these bottom ends at great cost. They wouldn't leave the nylon bearings in there if they were the problem.
My friend the professor will no doubt join us with a post twice as boring and 3 times as long as this one to refute what I'm saying here. If he was the professor on Gilligan's Island, they would have swam for it. ::)
Gary Buxton the dished piston part I figured you would like to know it started last year mid year he says.
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562 560 Service Bulletin SB