Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: weimedog on August 26, 2014, 06:47:22 pm
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It was really bad, so I did the typical carb kit deal. Now its just sluggish.....then will pick up RPMS for about 4 seconds then drops 500 rpms and stays there...
Can't adjust that carb.... so what are the options with those POS's??? Fuel line looks good but I will replace it anyway.
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Some of those Chinese $12 carbs look as though they may have recessed H&L screws?
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There are even some true twin needle Walbro's on Ebay
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didn't see any but I might as well tear it apart again.... nothing lose as it's not right. Might see if the muffler is clogged. The nuts were rusted on so I was afraid to break them loose as it might damage more than I want to fix..:)
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:)
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-ms170-chinese-carb-swap/msg34508/#msg34508
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The Genuine Stihl WT215 is only $22.50 at the Stihl Dealer
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There are even some true twin needle Walbro's on Ebay
I see a bunch on eBay.. now! That might be an approach. Huztl.. :) a 10 dollar versions.
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I have a couple Stihl 025's with Stihl Walbro WT215's.
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Put that Chinese carb on the MS180... and it is somewhat better. Starts easily and idles nice. It does pick up RPM's better than it did (after tuning) but its max rpm where it run's well is around 12,500. So it moved in the right direction.... But I've seen other posts where they should twist to 14k.
Think the Chinese carb has allowed me to tune around another issue... A puzzle. Possibly ignition. And another possibility... air leak around the bearing cap/cylinder? intake boot? Think its coming apart tomorrow.
(Had to die grind a "slot" where the throttle rod goes, pop the ball bearing out of the hole for pulse, block the OTHER hole with epoxy, grind a bit off the post for the idle adjustment screw, and poked some holes so I could tune it with the cover on)
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Did you check the spark arrester screen to make sure it is not plugged up.
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Took it right out to eliminate the variable. Changed Fuel Line, took off air filter element, new spark plug. Carb kit first, Chinese carb second. Checked compression and all that typical stuff. Checked pulse hole, sprayed silicon around looking for an air leak.... maybe it's just a pig! Thinking maybe heavy carbon build up in exhaust or something out of the box like that now. This is the second one of these that can with a odd hard to find issue.
I want to vacuum test the bottom end, just don't have an easy yet.
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I'm not sure why but the 180's that get used and slightly abused run better than the ones
that get used infrequently. Of all Stihl models ranges the 1130 (MS170/180) are the most
inconsistent runners, not in quality but in how they run.
It seems like I could take 10 saws brand new out of the box and all 10 would run differently.
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So what should that saw wind up too? Any idea's where to take that saw? Think I will post a video so you can hear & see where it is now.
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Stihl says they should be spin around 14,000. what for fixed jet did they have in the old carb. parts listing has 2 listed one for sea level and one high altitude. maybe a smaller jet is needed to get the other rpms out of the saw. just a wild ass guess on that.
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Those Chinese flocked filters really choke off the air. But in a previous post he said he had removed the filter.
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I blended a carb for a 250 and was able to get more rpm's.. leaning out the top some. So its better but not what I want to leave this shop. The filter in or out made no difference. My instinct leads me to ignition timing, but since saws are typically SO simple in that area I can't imagine what might go wrong there. Huztl ignition on its way.....