Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Cat-Face Timber on January 18, 2015, 05:17:34 pm
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I replaced the seals and the piston Ring, put a carb kit in and now it will not start.
I have good spark.
I pulled the cylinder off and there was fuel in the bottom of the crankcase.
Seems that the carb is pulling way too much fuel.
What do you think?
Carb kit in wrong?
thanks for any and all help
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metering valve not set right?
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Should the lever be flush with the carb body?
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Correct, the metering valve is not seating
Yes
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Also look at the fork on the fulcrum arm (metering needle side) to make sure its not bent. I've seen a lot of new kits with bent forks.
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Flush with the top of the "well" on the HS Tillotson I believe, not the body. I'll double check...
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The HS also has a metering lever with 'forks' at both ends. Gotta make sure they're seated in the grooves on the metering lever and the 'tit' on the metal plate of the metering diaphragm.
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Thanks so much for all your help.
When I opened the carb the lever was actually below the "well", now the lever is as flush as I can make it to the "well".
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Make sure the lever engages under the center if the diaphragm. Its forked (captivated) as Aaron states.
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Yep if you miss getting the little pin in the diaphgram in the fork it will flood like crazy.
Shep
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Thanks for all your help Gents, I went through the carb again last night and I had the Gaskets backwards as well.
When it warms up some I will go out and try it :)
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Having the gaskets/diaphragms installation reversed is possibly one of the most common problems with a recently disassembled carburetor.
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It is when you are a dumb ASS like me...
??? ??? ??? ??? ???
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It has happened to us all at one time or another
For several years I could not remember which way was which?
Finally I studied how the pumped/regulator carburetor actually works and remembered how the gaskets went after that.
The Walbro, Zama, & and Tillotson carbs are all the same in this respect.
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It has happened to us all at one time or another
The Walbro, Zama, & and Tillotson carbs are all the same in this respect.
Sure has LOL.
Shep
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Still will not start..
Suspected spark plug, pulled a known good plug and put the suspect plug in another saw and it ran fine.
So now...
Pull oiler and check the seal?
Pull Carb again and check the lever on the bottom, not sure what is it called?
I need a comp tester and a spark checker.
This is harder than my 288 was
WTF!
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Still will not start..
Suspected spark plug, pulled a known good plug and put the suspect plug in another saw and it ran fine.
So now...
Pull oiler and check the seal?
Pull Carb again and check the lever on the bottom, not sure what is it called?
I need a comp tester and a spark checker.
This is harder than my 288 was
WTF!
Probably still flooded. Make sure the choke is OPEN. Set the throttle lock. Flip the kill switch to stop, pull the plug, turn the saw upside-down (yes really) and pull the rope a buncha times. Betcha fuel blasts out. Flip it right side up and pull a bunch more times. Wipe things off, replace the plug (and connect the plug wire of course), flip the switch to run, check again that the choke is fully open (forward), check that the throttle lock is still set, and then pull. Should fire after a few pulls, clear out, and run.
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Pull the air cleaner too, will speed up the above process
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Very true. Also letting it sit for a while with the plug out helps, as does blowing the fuel out of the plug with compressed air. I have burned the fuel out of the 'business end' of a plug with a lighter before..............but that's probably not the smartest idea.
Not as dumb as when I degreased a muffler that I'd been grindin' on with brake cleaner (prior to painting it with BBQ paint)................................and then got the bright idea to burn the residual BC off when it wasn't evaporating fast enough for my impatience. WOOF!!!!! I lost some hair from my arm and the back of my hand because of that dumb move........
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So I did all that you said and still no go.
I pulled the cylinder off and still had gas in the crank case.
I then decided to look in the carb again...
The "fuel inlet lever", if I push the end of it down into the carb, it will not go all the way down maybe half way.
I have no idea what that means, but I assume that it is not good.
So now lets go to plan B.
I have another Husky carb, so what do you think of me pulling off my Carb kit that is on the "broken" carb and putting it on my spare carb.
Sounds good to me, but...
thanks for any help and thoughts.
:)
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[img http://(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/Aclarke123/Mobile%20Uploads/20150120_055932_zps41a611eb.jpg) (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/Aclarke123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150120_055932_zps41a611eb.jpg.html)/img]
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Metering lever should touch bottom of well if pushed down and return to top. The lever should sit flush with the top of the well as in picture and the needle should be completely seated. Touch the tip of the needle and make sure it's seated and doesn't bind.
Proper kit should be an RK-23HS and parts should look like the pieces in the above carb.
Ideally you should pull the carb off and test the sealing function of the needle with a pop off tester or use a compressor regulated down to 10- 12 or so pounds to see if the needle holds pressure. If it doesn't seal it will flood.
If the seat where the needle seals is dirty or has been chingered up with a tool it's gonna be a nightmare to seal. Go through the carb carefully and inspect the seat and needle for function, and test the sealing if you can with low pressure air on the fuel inlet line or the hole in the opposite side of the inlet needle
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While you're at it, make sure the tank vent is functional, if it doesn't vent properly it will pressurize the tank and can dump fuel into the engine. Don't put a different UNKNOWN carburetor in the mix till you determine what's wrong with this one.
Adam
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WOW.. thanks for all the information!
The lever will not go all the way down, it is like the needle is binding up.
I will take another look, hopefully tonight after work.