Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Tool Shed => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on January 21, 2015, 03:59:26 pm
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So what is some good stackable wedges? School me.
I only have a small stihl one, large generic wedge and a old steel one that dont get used. Figure I might want to update with my date with some big poplars this spring. Just in case.
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Madsens has some that are rifled made for stacking. K&H do pretty good and are my favorite ones followed by the red heads and madsens brand.
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These?
http://www.khwedge.com/
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Madsen's page 2 http://www.madsens1.com/PDF/10madsencatxsale.pdf
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Yeah those are the K&H. The black bear ones are the ones made to stack.
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The black bear rifled wedges are pretty nice I have two of them for just that stacking them to get more lift. I have used them a bunch and really like them. I also got a double taper double lift wedge but have not used it much to say weather I really like it or not. I would have to say you are going to get more lift from the black bears then the double taper. I would also like to say I am a big fan of the hard head wedge. I know that's not what you asked for but if you are updating i think you would be happy with them they sure can take a pounding.
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I have maybe a half dozen different sizes but they are Oregon and Husqvarna wedges
I have some steel ones too.
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Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. 8)
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I like the cheaper ones in case they somehow get left out in the woods and not found. A dozen of Madsens house brand were $36 a while back. Some the of the longer K&H are double taper for lift. If those poplars are 30" or bigger you can get 12" wedges that will lift a lot at the end. The shorter K&H are nice as they have more lift than the Madsens and redheads.
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The h
Hard Head (steel head insert) are nice if you need to persuade a stubborn tree.
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I have some generic plastic wedges that I use to prevent the bar from being pinched. I also have a couple of steel wedges and those I use when I want to fell a tree in a certain direction using a wedge that is pounded in with a sledge. If it is a real bad leaner then I will pull it down with my truck.
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In the old days we either had steel splitting wedges or we cut some out of Osage Orange or Northern Maple.
The wood ones held up about like today's plastic wedges. If you beat on them they would eventually split themselves.
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I have 4 steel wedges and are made for splitting but I prefer to use them for felling. My plastic wedges last much longer that way.
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In more recent years I have not used my steel wedges for fear of bumping one with the chain.
One day I had a good felling need for them but couldn't remember where I put them. So I pulled the tree down with the truck.
After I got that clump of trees dropped I thought of where the steel wedges were. And they are still laying there on the shelf. I'm afraid to move them.
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Oh when I use those steel wedges all the cutting is done. No saws. If I have to cut some more because I did not calculate correctly I knock the wedges out before cutting.
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That's what I decided - that I better do it that way too.
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I fell a tree with the help of steel splitting wedges a couple weeks ago. I ended up hitting them with my saw of course. Good thing I had extra chains with me. I had a handful of plastic felling wedges last year. I shattered every single one.
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You beat on the back of a plastic wedge with a big hammer in this cold weather - It is bound to shatter.
In warm weather they will mushroom and peen over.
Like has already been said . . .
I guess the plastic wedge is just for placing in a cut to keep the cut from pinching?
If you are trying to make the tree fall after your done cutting, then put the ole steel splitting wedge in there and beat your heart out?
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these are the hard head wedges we use
http://www.forestershop.com/hardhead-10-felling-wedge.html (http://www.forestershop.com/hardhead-10-felling-wedge.html)
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I guess the plastic wedge is just for placing in a cut to keep the cut from pinching?
Never broke a Pillar double taper or Madsens orange wedge until below zero. Then we switch to Pillar super tuff's, never broke one at any -zero temps.
Stacking 3 in the winter is a little sketchy, they like to pop back out.
Hardheads were shattering in the cold last winter for others. I don't use them. Guess they are a summer wedge.
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I'm probably not a good judge anymore for I'm older and don't get out in inclement weather unless I have to. But I used to when I was middle aged.
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I have broke many of the heads of the hard head wedges in the winter. But the steel insert goes far down in the plastic and you can still use them and keep on driving them. You just need to trim off the mushroomed portion from time to time.
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In spite of it saying +10F on the weather in my post right now and I'm 5 miles from the US weather station. The thermometer at my house reads "0 F" and in the heart of the little town close to me is +5F right now
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Here was what the failed hardheads looked like in the cold temps last winter.
(http://i1349.photobucket.com/albums/p742/crrs1987/Forestry/Wedge__1.jpg) (http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/crrs1987/media/Forestry/Wedge__1.jpg.html)
The response from the maker was they didn't have a problem.
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Those hard heads are not exactly cheap.
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Have had that happen to me a couple of times too. Makes me wonder if where the insert stops makes a weak point in the wedge. I have also notice for me that if you don't hit them square you will cause a lot of damage to the wedge. Even though I have broken many of them. I still think they are good wedges.
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Agreed, Hardheads will lift a lot more than a std wedge.
In warm weather. ;D
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I've probabley got a dozen plastic wedges from 5 to 12 inch .They're okay but I manage to beat them to a pulp .
Steel splitters maybe a dozen also ..I've never hit them with a saw chain but I have caught them in the shin bones when the sons a b's come flying back at me .Ouch .
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Bought some bigger wedges to go with my 5.5" and 8" wedges I already had. Picked up 5.5" 8" 10" 12" wedges. Plus ordered 4 5.5" for a friend.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/1-YAAOSwPhdVCzXw/$_35.JPG)
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My favorite are the K&H. Madsens store brand are nice as well. Not as thick as the K&H but they're cheap by the dozen.
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Have not had a k and h yet. I do like the madsens wedges. They drive nice and lift pretty good. Work well for stacking .
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I'm a cheap azz, so will see how these do. Hopefully on those dang big poplars soon.
The yellow ones are smooth on one side, barbed on other. Come from a Ohio seller Quality parts Stow Ohio
Sells in bulk or make to order sets.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/qualitypartsguy/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
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Look similar to some of the Oregon wedges I have seen. What kit did you get. I use mainly 10" on tree jobs and when cutting timber. Have a couple 7" extra lift double taper wedges for side wedging smaller diameter trees. I don't think It really matters what wedges you have just as long as you have some. They can get you out of a bind real quick.
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Have a couple 7" extra lift double taper wedges for side wedging smaller diameter trees.
Dad was wanting some thick wedges for dropping trees some trees up the hill. But not cut all the way through, for making some bedding areas for deer.
I havent heard of thick wedges like he was telling me about being made from wood and used back in the old days.
Close to 2" thick is what he is wanting.
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Now remember we have to drop up steep hill areas.
Pics to show what I'm talking about.
(http://www.outreachoutdoors.com/home/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/hinge-1d1.jpg)
(http://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Hinge-Cut2.jpg)
(http://cdn.imageserver.c-m-g.us/michigan-sportsman_com/84/75918-1420161156.jpg)
https://youtu.be/FUN1IJ7z_Rk
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http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Felling-Wedges/Double-Taper-Felling-Wedges/7-1-4-Extra-Lift-Double-Taper-Felling-Wedge-Each.axd
These are the ones that I use. Not quite 2" but do lift well in small trees. A lot better than trying to stack wedges in small stuff.
I usually get them from Madsens. You can always cut your own out a Chunk of wood I have done that in a pinch when I did not bring any wedges with me.
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12' push pole is quick work to make those barber chaired deer trees.
If you need a wedge, it is to big for what you want.
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It seems those western fallers like to beat on the wedges with a short handled axe .All I get doing that is screwed up wedges .I have better luck with a 4 pound dead blow hammer .
If I get out the steel wedges they get thumped with a 7 pound sledge .--yes I have hit the steel with a saw before .
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I use the short handled axe as well for cutting timber. 20" handle 3.5 lbs axe head. Drive wedges nice and they are easy to carry on your person and still be able to move around and get work done. The biggest thing that I have found that messes up the plastic wedge ends is not hitting them square. Kind of like driving nails if you don't hit square you have a bent over nail. Also you can chop your saw out in you get it pinched.
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Dad is going to be trying to do this on the side of a steep hill, falling uphill. Should be interesting.
Said he was going to use that little 180 I gave him for Christmas.
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Maybe a throw line and weight to set a pull rope if he has troubles.