Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on March 17, 2015, 03:01:46 pm
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OK guys I hate to admit it but yesterday I was having a bad day and this new updated metal clamp with not helping my day.
I usually can put this on in a few tries. But for some reason this one with new partition and metal clamp was knocking me out forever.
Anyone have a a trick up their sleeve that I am missing?
Like I said never had a problem before, just a tad struggle and wham-o together. But yesterday this one was difficult to say the least. In the end I got it clamped, but now I have to pull it back off for another used cylinder I just ordered.
I know to use a 372 or a poulan 330 clamp, but this one came in the kits for a customers saws.
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0032/0472/products/bartonsnew_028_large.jpg?v=1360964058)
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SB info
The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part
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Was tricky for me when I installed one too. Can't remember what I came up with to do it. There is also a NAPA Auto CV boot clamp that works......and will be what I use on the next saws I I work on. Will get the # for you. The PP330 clamp was backordered last time I tried to order it.
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Now the poulan metal clamps going NLA. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
I got another used small intake for poulan yesterday and it came with the clamp. But I didnt want to give it up. So I fought it.
I also bought a new 372 updated clamp for my own. Little different then old one.
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I tried a Husky 365 boot clamp on a 350 before giving in and ordering the partition/clamp update kit. 365 clamp was too small. Dunno if it was the same # as a 372 clamp. Was what I had laying around to try....
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That's the kit I put on my 350 also Kevin. I can't recall what I used to put it on, want to say it was some needle nose pliers but not positive. Luckily it was a one and done for me. Sure does get on there tight. Hope you get it together without much ado. I can't remember if I did it with the cylinder off or on??
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I had to do it with the cylinder off. Tried first (without success) to get that damn clamp locked with the jug on the saw.
The NAPA boot clamp is 6865833. I haven't used it yet, but I trust the fellow that gave me the #. He has used it with success. The description on the NAPA site sez that it has an installed diameter of 7". They must mean circumference...
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Joint-Boot-Clamp/_/R-CTD6865833_0361268661
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I've done with cylinder on and off before. Just for some reason this one got me.
I ended up using locking needle nose so it couldnt get away from me. Then pushed with flat tip screwdriver to latch.
All the past ones just regular ole needle nose.
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Dont you need a special tool to clamp those down Aaron?
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I was thinking that too. Those usually take a tool that looks like a pair of hog ring pliers. I'll ask my buddy what he used. He gave me that # today. Last time he sent me the # (which I lost), I thought I remembered it being a screw clamp...
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I have the tools as I've re-done a few CV joints but they are not expensive and are on the turn around rack by the counter at the NAPA store.
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I have the tools as I've re-done a few CV joints but they are not expensive and are on the turn around rack by the counter at the NAPA store.
Interesting. May still be a good way to go. Here's a couple examples of those pliers from Napa. Cheap, and not quite so cheap. Might also be able to borrow them from an auto parts store with a deposit. I borrowed a disc brake caliper tool set from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts store last month. Just had to pay a deposit (retail value of the tool set) that I got back...
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Pliers-Ear-Type-CV-Joint-Boot-Clamp-Pliers/_/R-BK_7769244_0006392255
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Joint-Boot-Clamp-Pliers/_/R-SER3955_0006402481
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I had to have two different kinds of pliers. I must have done OK for some of those vehicles were driven another 100K after I cleaned, re-packed and rebooted the CV joints on the half shafts.
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These are a lot harder to get locked than first appears. I did my 359 and it took me about 10 tries with 2 different styles of pliers. That hood part doesn't snap over, instead it just raised up.
I had already promised my son in law that I'd do his 359 so next I'm going to try a needle-nosed vice grip. The CV tool seems good too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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When I used the needle nose vise grips putting on 2150 cylinder it only took 1 try. Thats the trick to it IMO.