Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: Giles on March 30, 2015, 04:47:49 pm
-
I have a friend that wants to sell me an MS290 Stihl. I know nothing about the saw except it is a clamshell design with 56cc.
Reading some reviews, some say a 20" bar is too big.
Really??? I have a 52cc Makita that uses a 20" bar with no problems.
Is this an unpopular model?
-
The Stihl 029 & MS290 are probably Stihl's most popular model
-
It is a very popular farm/ranch/weekend warrior saw. It will run a 20" bar and .325 chain comfortably, not quite enough oomph for 3/8. IMHO, a little heavy for it's size.
-
If the engines goes bad, people usually convert them to a MS390 with a new cylinder and piston assembly.
-
Like this:
-
I had a like new 290 that a dealer couldnt figure out and out of warranty. I bought it for $100 from the guy that got it from new original owner.
After figuring out it was just a carb issue. The diaphragm with flaps ( cant think of name of it right now :-[ ) had slits wore in it where it should have been blocking off. I did a muffler mod and carb retune and seen 23% quicker cuts with the 325 chain.
I had in mind giving it to my dad the whole time. Few months later he told me to take the :o ( weight wise for 56cc ) back home with me that he didnt like it and preferred his poulan 3300 54cc he bought new in late 80's.
I put it on CL with 16" and bunch of 063 chains and sold for $225.
-
I had a like new 290 that a dealer couldnt figure out and out of warranty. I bought it for $100 from the guy that got it from new original owner.
After figuring out it was just a carb issue. The diaphragm with flaps ( cant think of name of it right now :-[ ) had slits wore in it where it should have been blocking off. I did a muffler mod and carb retune and seen 23% quicker cuts with the 325 chain.
I had in mind giving it to my dad the whole time. Few months later he told me to take the :o ( weight wise for 56cc ) back home with me that he didnt like it and preferred his poulan 3300 54cc he bought new in late 80's.
I put it on CL with 16" and bunch of 063 chains and sold for $225.
Pump diaphragm. 8)
-
My friend brought the saw over. I agreed to tear it down and find the problem. Ruined piston and cylinder but not locked up. Worst I have ever seen that wasn't locked.
I might also add that I thought a Dolmar PS34 was a difficult saw to work on until I did this 290!
-
By the time you get it repaired and learn the tricks, you'll think it not so much harder than any other brand.
Time to put a Chinese cylinder and piston in it? Make it a 390? Doesn't cost any more.
-
Wonder how much longer that will take--Been rebuilding chainsaws for over FIFTY YEARS. LOL
What's hard for me, may be easy for you or vice versa.
-
One thing for sure, the 290 is certainly made different from a Husqvarna 372. Another thing is that whoever made up the service manual is not aware of the assembly sequence situation? Once you catch onto this problem, you will be an expert.
I have the Service manual and parts list if necessary.
-
I was looking through some junk spiral note pads and found MANY scribblings of chainsaws and other mechanical and electrical items. Years ago, before we got the conveniences we have today with photos, I would draw out a schematic to
help with assembly.
Today, when I tear something down that is somewhat complicated, I take several photos and put them on computer.
Helped me out many times because at my age, I sometimes get "confused"
-
I'm 70 and my fingers don't work like they used to.
In my area, you come across more of those plastic Stihls than any other chainsaw. They are very popular with casual homeowners and firewood guys.
So we have to learn to repair them.
My biggest frustration is replacing a bad part on a complete chainsaw.
After you learn one, to completely disassemble a plastic Stihl to get the engine apart and reassemble the chainsaw is no more difficult than any other saw but is different.
After having a engine unit apart and seeing how they are made, I would never try to put seals in one without removing the engine and pulling the pan from the bottom of the engine unit.
There is little difference in these engine units and that of most of the Stihl weed whacker power units.
-
I know that I can go to a 390 P/C but I am leary of buying a Chinese replacement, but don't want to tie up more in this saw then it's worth.
Can anyone advise me as to the reliability of the China kits, any brand better then the others?
I have found a used P/C for an 038, would that work?
-
The 038 will not work. It is not a clamshell design
-
Of the Chinese MS390 cylinder and piston assemblies there are some offerings that do not work out so well.
There's one where the piston skirt hits the counterweights and another with no impulse nipple. There are others with the hole for the coil ground not tapped.
I'm not so sure any of the holes were tapped on the OEM cylinders either? Some of those OEM screws are self tapping.
I have a MS250 and a FS55 power head beside me and the screws are self tapping.
-
I should have noticed it wasn't a clamshell---my oversight.
-
The Farmertech engine from Hutzel dropped right in absolutly no issues. I put about an hour on it before selling it on C'List last week.
Hardest part is waiting two weeks for delivery.
-
http://www.weedeaterman.com/default.asp http://www.hlsproparts.com
Look at the links above between them they have most of the aftermarket kits that are available. Have heard the mako and or hyway kits are ok. Got the mako kit for a 290 and it works well. The 290-390 pan bolts are self tapping like the 210-250 pan bolts. The look very similar.
-
The Farmertech engine from Hutzel dropped right in absolutly no issues. I put about an hour on it before selling it on C'List last week.
Hardest part is waiting two weeks for delivery.
I just received the Farmtech kit today. I noticed the cylinder is tapped fine thread and the factory (big headed) screws are course thread. It is my understanding that this is correct. My screws are just straight thread screws that don't appear to be self tapping.
It is also my assumption that this causes an interference thread to serve as locking.
Built many saw and never run into this.
Is this correct--just use the factory screws?
-
I thought that one era of 029's (for example) were fine thread and the MS290's were coarse? That the change in thread pitch was because the fine threads would strip out?
You might seek the correct pitch screws?
-
http://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-029-039-MS290-MS310-MS390-cylinder-bolt-p/h71039.htm
$3.99 they are D6 X 52 self tapping 9075 48 4735
-
I roamed around the Internet about the coarse and fine threads on the new cylinders. Only thing I found is a guy that went ahead and run the factory coarse thread self tapping screws into his new Chinese after market cylinder that appeared to have fine threads. He's been happy!