Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: dudechuck on April 30, 2015, 12:35:49 pm
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What would you guys value a good used working and cutting Husqvarna 2100 at these days?
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We talked about that in a few threads. They can be pretty cheap ready to go $200 up CL or they can be ridiculous high. Good deal is on who is buying. Me not much others way more.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/2100-no-power-in-the-cut/msg53675/#msg53675
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-2100-1487/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-2100-performance-upgrade/msg51185/#msg51185
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Well if you needed a good 100 cc saw then what would you like?
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Well if you needed a good 100 cc saw then what would you like?
Trying to find what we'd pay the most money for?
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I was looking atum on ebay, prices are all over the place. For working and non-working units. Was also at the co-op this morning and a man there had one out. It is a guy I often speak to. I had mentioned last week I was looking for another saw and he told me his cs2100 I think was the best saw he'd ever owned. Also the only saw he said he could fix cause he has had it forever. We talked about the prices of new saws and other 90cc or better saws. Well a 100cc saw at our Husqvarna dealer runs over $1000. Baileys has a 395XP I think at $1.100.
I would think a good working or non-working one would be worth $200 give or take, which are on ebay. There is one posted right now on my CL for $600 and he says it dosn't work. I am not calling myself a chainsaw repairman by any stretch of the imagination. But my piston kit came in today for my 257 and while I have been waiting on it I have taken it apart and put it back together twice just to do it. Of course it still wasn't running but I was waiting on this kit to come. It sure don't sound any worse. With my 455XP due in within the next few days I will have one saw, maybe two working saws if the 257 starts up after I get the piston kit in. I don't plan on keeping both so may find a local buyer for one of them and then use that to get a Husqvarna 90cc to 100cc model in here for my chainsaw mill. Another thing. As he and I were talking about the saws a couple of other dudes (I callum oldtimers) got in on the conversation and neither of them nor the other guy I was talking to do anything much with ebay but said there was no way I found the Husqvarna 455 Rancher for around $200 what with that same saw selling at Lowes right now for $500 after taxes and one of them said he bought a Husqvarna 455 Rancher just before Christmas at the Co-op when it was on sale for $399. Our Co-op sells Husqvarna because thats their best selling saw. But they have Stihl chainsaws in the back. It's funny they do this but when I asked they said that Stihl now requires a exclusivity contract and your not supposed to be able to deal with Husqvarna if you carry Stihl. My Ace hardware guy told me the same thing because this year they are carrying Stihl but the last 5 years they carried Husqvarna. The mangier at Ace said they even had to stop working on Husqvarna because the exclusivity contract required it.
So if I get this 257 working I think I can order a non-working 2100 and make it a project if I can get it working for around $200 or so.
I know I took the long way around to this point. But it is what it is.
lol
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You'd probably be money ahead to just get a good running used 395XP instead of a $200 project 2100CD. Parts are getting scarce (especially pistons). The 395 would be better for use as a milling saw since parts (including aftermarket) are so plentiful.
When you rebuild your 257 are you going to replace the crank seals and the intake gaskets?
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crankshaft bearings oil seals were $7, cylinder intake exhaust muffler gaskets were $3.99. And that pretty much busted my saw budget until I make some money.
You'd probably be money ahead to just get a good running used 395XP instead of a $200 project 2100CD. Parts are getting scarce (especially pistons). The 395 would be better for use as a milling saw since parts (including aftermarket) are so plentiful.
When you rebuild your 257 are you going to replace the crank seals and the intake gaskets?
Someone else told me this but told me to buy an extra few vital parts now and put them up. I could either sell them or use them later. But he also said " I said these part would be hard to find in five years, ant that was 5 years ago and there still around to be found". I know it will happen and whatever saw I were to get I will get some parts to bank if it's an older saw. I can't find a 395 anywhere at a good price. My thinking is this. Since I need more power sooner than later. I have to recover from what I have bought recently. I need to get a saw that is less income prohibitive <--- my phrase for me right now. So what I have seen are the 2100 at the best price. Almost all of the 395 I have looked at are out of reach at this point in time.
To the others whom have asked what 100cc saw I want. I am not stuck on any one saw. Just needs to give some good use and being out of work with money coming in slow it needs to be a good price. Whats in the forum for sale.
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When dealing with used saws, it is most often a matter situational chance and opportunity as to brand and model?
You have to go with the flow.
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A 2100 is fickle as a teen age prom queen .Hardest SOB to pull over I ever saw ,no decomp .
I probabley have all told about $225 in mine.It's a cuttin old fool once you get it lit off I have to say that .
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Was wondering what the high retail was on these back in the day.
grr no retail price listed.
1 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1987 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 28
2 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1986 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 28
3 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1985 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 28
4 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1984 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 24
5 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1983 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 98
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 24
6 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1982 2100
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 18
Bar Oiler Type: Automatic
Bar Length: 24
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Try the husqvarna 2101
grrr still no retail prices
1 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1993 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 20
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 20
2 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1992 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 20
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 20
3 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1991 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 20
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 20
4 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1990 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 20
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 20
5 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1989 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 20
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 20
6 Chain Saws Husqvarna 1988 2101XP
Engine Make: Husqvarna
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters: 99
Engine Size Cubic Inches: 6
Dry Weight: 19
Bar Oiler Type: Manual
Bar Length: 24
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Value in the enthusiast world and value in the real world are two very different things. $200 is a realistic price. The high priced listings are geared towards collector types who tend to over pay for old saws. Best saw deals are always outside the hobby arena.
In the real world, saws like 2100's are just old, heavy saws that are hard to start, vibrate like heck, and are hard to get parts for. (But are really cool saws for saw geeks like us. I do have fun running mine now and then) Parts are the big thing if the saws will see regular duty, cause you're going to need something at some point. As was mentioned a 394/395 is a far more supportable saw, but you'll likely pay a lot more than $200 for one in decent shape.
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Mid 1980's a 2100 was going for under a $1000 up north here. A few guys here on the prairies were putting pipes on them , cutting the heads and epoxying transfer covers on them. Gave the few Mac 101's a run for their money.
But that all changed when the 3120 came out a few years later, by then the Mac guys gave up looking for con rods and cranks ;D
Timber fallers on coastal B.C. were still running 2101's right up into the late '90s. Many of those old school 1100, 2100, 2101's sold out there since the early '70s
Matter of fact my older brother has a brand new never fueled up 2100XP still in the box that he traded a couple of David Bradleys and a I.E.L. for. .............wheeling and dealing goes on in the collectors world.
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sold a real nice 2100 thin ring for $900 , he set the price not me . I bought alot of 2100's and most new were $650 to $675 up north at my dealer there back in the day