Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: wild262 on June 15, 2015, 12:23:13 pm
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Need alittle advice from you guys. I own a 60 acre farm and cut wood for my heating. Thinking on trying a 24" b/c on a small mount husky saw for limbing only. I have both, a 346 NE, and a very strong 262xp. Trying to avoid bending over so much when I limb. Had back surgery awhile back, but doing OK till I bend over all day. My 350 acted up on me the other day and wouldn't start while limbing, and so I used my heaver 61/272 blend w/24" bar to finish the job and was surprised that I had much less back pain at the end of the day. I usually use a 346 or 1 of my 350's with 18" bars for this. I know there are some small mount 24" bars out there, but my question is, should I go with a 3/8" with skip chain, or maybe a narrow kerf, or maybe a 3/8" picco b/c ? Cost is no concern when it comes to my back and the Tsumira, SugiHara, and Cannon Mini's are not out of the question. Balance & chain speed will take a back seat I know, but I am willing to compromise. Any experience, advice or recommendations? Thanks in advance :)
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If you are bucking on the ground a bow bar is hard to beat in the not needing to bend over department. The bow bars cut off the end of the bar. They are usually 20" long and vary in width at the face from 8"(50cc) to 14" (60cc). I use 3/8" regular chain on mine. I found NOS bars.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Bow%20Saw%20371%20Bird%20Dog.jpg)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4337.0;attach=13476;image)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slpCI3YZGm0
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Never considered those. How would those work when there a lot of limbs in the way? I could see with bucking, but how bout limbing?
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Being as a bow bar sticks out there 20", they are not handy to be cutting up at shoulder height. You will tire quickly.
They work better to let the weight of the saw head push on the bar while cutting with you in the standing position and the wood below shoulder height.
There is a sticky thread in the bars area of this forum with many explanations and video's
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I know you said money was no object to worry about. But here are some deals by a member here Left Coast Supplies.
Limbing I would look at .325. on sale $27 and shipping GB Pro top
24" small mount in .325 http://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/24-gb-pro-top-bar-325-050/
24" small husky in 3/8 http://leftcoastsupplies.com/product/24-gb-pro-top-bar-38-050-2/
Whole site http://leftcoastsupplies.com/
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The smaller 8" diameter brush bar with guards top and bottom is ideal in a area cluttered with limbs as the guards keep the flank portion of the bar/chain from catching on other limbs.
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Thanks guys. I'm considering all options. Now, if I could just find somebody locally with a bow saw.
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Ran a bow mounted chainsaw today for the first time. Cannot really say I like one. They feel very clumsy to me. This one was a smaller one. OK if you were only cutting at ground level, but when limbing, that's not always an option. Think I will buy a 24" .325 pitch B/C for my 346 and try that. Maybe with the smaller chain I won't lose so much power or cutting speed. I run a lot of .325s on my saws anyway. Thanks to all for your help and links you posted to help me out. :) Really like this forum. ;)
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Oregon offers a 24" in the small mount but only in the Power Match with a 3/8" tip, you would need to switch to a .325 nose which isn't a biggie.