Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Jonsered => Topic started by: trigger07 on November 01, 2015, 12:25:49 pm
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hi to you all this is my first time on this forum and i am hoping someone here will hopefully shed some bright light as to why my joneserd cs2240s saw that only been used 4/5 times from new wont start it was purchased january 2014 and used it a few times over the year with no problems and used again 2015 in march then came to use again in june put choke on pulled a few time intil it tryed to fire then choke of and nothing happened and still nothing has happened to this day it wont even try to fire up i will try to give a list of things i have tried but as yet to no avail fitted new plug and has a great spark nice and blue /emptied fual and filled with new mix /removed carb and cleaned and fitted / removed tank filter and fuel pipe inspected and refitted them / disconected stop switch to confirm its not coming on /taken muffler of to confirm its not obstructed /removed flywheel to confirm it hasnt slipped / and still not a light from it as its now getting closer to the bin i thought i would try asking you guys for some much needed help as i am loosing the will to live any help would be great thanks a lot
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Is plug getting wet?
Is it getting spark?
Is the mix 6 months or newer?
What is the psi?
Have you pulled muffler and checked piston and rings?
jonsered 2240
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hi thanks for your reply i have changed the plug and has a nice spark / the plug is wet and smells of fuel the mix is new and have had the muffler of and all looks fine with piston and rings the only thing i havnt done yet is the psi its done very little work and condition is like new i have ran out of ideas as to what to do next
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Coil gap right? on/off switch on?
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i have disconected the on/off switch to and nothing changed how do i check the coil gap and dont know what it would be
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Looks like a nice light weight trim saw. http://www.jonsered.com/int/chainsaws/cs-2240-s/
So does the tool-less tensioner system work good and seem sturdy?
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Well you said you pulled flywheel right? You have flywheel back on right and in time?
Loosen coil. Put a business card between flywheel and coil. Turn flywheel till both magnets line up with coil. You should see coil move into flywheel. The tighten coil.
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i will try that and get back to you thanks for your help
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the tooless tensioner seems to work fine and seems up to the job but i havnt used it much
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hi i have set the coil as discribed and checked the psi and it reads 80 psi dont know if thats good bad thanks
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80 no good that is your problem. Did you keep pull till the psi quit moving up on the compression checker? Not just a few pulls and stop.
I like 120 min. Saw should have 130-150
Ring stuck or gummed up in land?
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yes kept pulling until it stoped did it three times and all the same is it something i could tackle myself do you think it seems strange as its only proberbly done about 4 hours work from new
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I got one here now with 110psi and no go. Like I said min for me is 120psi for re-ringing.
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You have a decompression valve on that saw?
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not that ive seen have had a look at manual and doesnt mention anything
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I thought maybe you might have decomp pushed in or it was leaking for your sake.
jonsered 2240 IPL http://www.jonsered.com/ddoc/JONI/JONI2009_AAaa/JONI2009_AAaa__06.pdf
Nope dont show a decomp
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many thanks for your help with my problem and the parts info will be a god send i am sure if i go down the do it myself route i am sure there will be many more questions asked thanks
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Pull the muffler off and see if the piston has any scoring marks on it.
I agree 80 psi is just not enouph. That is why the plug is wet when you pull it but it is not firing.
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yes i have had the muffler of on a few occasions and all looks like new thats what i dont understand its only done around four hours work from new only used by myself and had the correct mix always it can only be the ring i understand but why when its so new i will strip it at the weekend and see whats what
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Ring looked gummed up aka stuck somehow?
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80 is very low granted your gage is accurate
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it must be stuck as its very clean hardly any carbon build up but then it hasnt done anything realy
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hi just to update the thread after stripping the motor it turns out the piston ring was stuck i have now ordered a new one and wait to rebuild the motor i found the ring stuck with carbon but no carbon elswhere would there be a reason for this on such a new machine
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What was the oil mix you were using? Also how old was your mix? How rich is your saw set at?
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Sounds like it got hot. Gasoline nowadays goes bad really fast. As the fuel degrades it stops burning and begins to combust. It may help to run a little more oil in your fuel mix. Also, try to keep the chain razor sharp so that the saw feeds by itself, reefing on the bar or forcing the unit to cut will push the heat up quick.
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hi thanks for the info i will put back together and take note of your recomendations many thanks
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the mix was 50/1 and was no more than 2 months old the mixture screw hasnt been touched and only has one screw unlike my other 2 stroke machines there doesnt seem to be any high and low adjustment unless i am missing something so can only guess the one screw is tickover
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Just wondering what you use for oil?
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the mix was 50/1 and was no more than 2 months old the mixture screw hasnt been touched and only has one screw unlike my other 2 stroke machines there doesnt seem to be any high and low adjustment unless i am missing something so can only guess the one screw is tickover
I know that the manufactures recommend 50-1 mix but that is because of EPA standards that have to be met.
I would run at least 40-1. I myself run 32-1 mix in everything I have including saws, string trimmers, and leaf blowers. I have never had any problems with stuck rings, scoring on the piston, or bearings going bad because of a lack of oil.
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hi after stripping and fitting a new piston ring it now fires up every pull and ticks over nice but for some reason as soon as you pull the throttle it dies but fires up straight away i have managed at one point to get it to rev through but mostley it just wants to die on me any ideas what i might look at thanks to you all who helped
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It sounds like it could be the carburetor. Try adjusting the L side out by half a turn and then see if there is any improvement. The H is for wide open throttle and the L is for idle and transition to WOP. If you get it to rev then make sure you adjust the H for the 4 stroking sound at WOP throttle and then when you put it in wood it will smooth out to 2 stroking.
If the carb adjustments have no effect then you must have an air leak in it somewhere and you need to start checking things.
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hi thanks for your info there is only one adjustment screw and that only does the tickover there are openings for the other adjustment you mention but there are no screw visible to adjust
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Well not all carbs have both adjustments. Most of them do but sounds like yours does not. The main thing is that your saw sounds like it has a lean condition not enough fuel. It is either the carburetor or it is a air leak causing it to be lean.
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hi thanks i will take the carb of again and have a look to see if i can spot anything thanks a lot
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hi thanks for your info there is only one adjustment screw and that only does the tickover there are openings for the other adjustment you mention but there are no screw visible to adjust
On you carb the adjustment that is closet to the intake is the low the one closet to the air filter would be where the Hi would be. If there is a adjustment there for the L I would still turn it out ccw by half a turn and see if the saw runs any better.
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hi to you all that gave me some great advice on my saw i finaly got it goin correctly today i took the carb back of and checked the seal but couldnt find any obstruction cleaned it up and refitted it and runs perfect now many thanks to all yours trigger
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That is great.