Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: HolmenTree on November 11, 2011, 04:49:41 pm
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Now as some of you know I'm one of the first to praise the outboard clutch on a saw. Better ergonomics ,balance with ease of handling. Less heat to the crankcase.
But look at all the folks who have praised Stihl for having a inboard clutch on all their pro saws besides the 090 and MS200. Even the Husky 372XP owners beamed with pride with their inboards.
Now along comes the best thing since sliced bread 560/ 562s with.......................
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My 560xpg is in the house now, and it surely have an outbard clutch - it enhances the handling of the saw for limbing etc, and generally is a good thing on a smaller saw. ;D
A hammer (or axe) and a screwdriver is all you need to take the clutch off, no biggie at all! ;)
My dealer changed mine from .325 to 3/8 on the spot, when I picked it up.
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Sounds good Niko! Those 560 /562 sure are beautiful looking saws. The 562 is available here in Canada now, we have to wait another year for the 560XP . So I'll probably just get the 562 right now, but I'd prefer the lighter 560XP .
But............ my honeymoon with my "brand new" 272XP is not over yet and it might keep me in love with it for another year , which then I'll just buy the 560XP in a years time. :D ;)
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The worst problem with the outboard clutch is when you get pinched in a felling cut, and have to get another saw to cut it out. You want to leave the bar and chain in the pinch, but get the saw off in case the tree goes down wrong. With the inboard clutch, you take off the cover nuts and the saw almost falls off. With the outboard clutch it's a great big pain in the aXX.
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I talked about this issue with some of my logger buddies and we all agreed in all the years we felled timber , we never once had to take a powerhead off a b/c while it was pinched in a cut.
I quess that's why they make inboards for non professionals. :D
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You never got pinched in a felling cut, or you were always lucky when you dropped the tree?
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I've seen plenty of the 49cc - 60cc outboard poulans and partners in these parts stuck in trees by homeowners doing firewood, dropping dead trees like ash etc.
I get a good laugh and tell them to pull the powerhead off and I'll be over in a few. None of them has ever complained about getting the PH off.
I have no preference.
Matter fact I wanted 325 on a 55 set up with 3/8. Popped clutch off and switched in a min or less. Now I dont think I would have the tools to do that in the woods like a inboard though.
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You guys need a miracle wedge. Never be stuck in a tree again. Will post a pic tomorrow. They are selling good in the shop.
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You never got pinched in a felling cut, or you were always lucky when you dropped the tree?
I have pinched my saws in felling cuts many times over the years, but never had to pull the powerhead off.
In the bigger diameter trees that sit back on the b/c I always was able to get a wedge in enough to release the saw. In the small diameter trees I could always find a pole or dead chicot and push the tree over.
When logging the skidder was always nearby.
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Here is a steel wedge I use that works really good opening a pinched backcut.
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Here is a miracle wedge.
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Never seen or heard of it. Being I'm not so smart I need to ask, I take it you just use handles to screw it into tree?
Who makes it and what do they cost? Where would I look into one down here?
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It is a great little tool. Works nice when felling a frozen tree that splits a regular wedge out and tree settles back on your blade. Just screw the miracle wedge in and your good to go.
I sell them at the shop. I think you can only get them in Canada. Not cheap however.
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Matter fact I wanted 325 on a 55 set up with 3/8. Popped clutch off and switched in a min or less. Now I dont think I would have the tools to do that in the woods like a inboard though.
Just a foot long stick of wood and a scrench is all you need. Back in the early 1980s I was field testing Oregon's [new then] radial port rim sprockets at work. I had to carry spare rims in my pocket because these new prototypes would break chunks out of them every so often. I got good at knocking the outboard clutch off my Jonsered 630 by sticking the spark plug socket of the scrench on the clutch nut with the screwdriver horizontal on right side of nut [left hand thread] while the saw sat on the stump.
I'd then whack the srewdriver end with a heavy short stick and the clutch would spin off easily. To re-tighten the clutch, just screw it on finger tight, rev up the saw WOT and apply the chain brake. Total process took about a minute.
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You never got pinched in a felling cut, or you were always lucky when you dropped the tree?
I have pinched my saws in felling cuts many times over the years, but never had to pull the powerhead off.
In the bigger diameter trees that sit back on the b/c I always was able to get a wedge in enough to release the saw. In the small diameter trees I could always find a pole or dead chicot and push the tree over.
When logging the skidder was always nearby.
Yes, the wedge or a push pole work most of the time. Getting the skidder for me is a poor option. I work by myself, cutting from about 7 AM until around 2PM, then start the forwarder. I would have to drive my pickup out to the landing, start the machine, let it warm up, etc. (I make nice roads, less walking and landowners love them.) You never have to pull off the powerhead. But if you are by yourself and you push over the tree with the skidder, you can't be there to pull the saw to safety. When you have somebody else there to push with the skidder, and the tree is rotten or has a heavy side lean, you still can't be sure where it will go. Taking off the powerhead is a precaution. The expensive powerhead is in a safe place, the bar and chain are much less vulnerable to damage when detached.
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Just sharing the watch movie part on 560xp. http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/forest/560-xp/#
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Cool video, that I look at now and then! ;D
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Cool video, that I look at now and then! ;D
Niko have you run your MS361 and 560xp back to back with same type chains to give a unbiased opinion yet?
Now be sure to remove your beer goggles and run same type chain 3/8 and gears 7T or 8T on both and let us know.
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I have planned to do something like that when I have had a hip replaced (hopefully this winter), and the 560 is decently run in - but at the moment I am not able to run a saw for real at all!
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Good luck on the hip. Lady at work had that done.
Dont sound like fun the way it was explained to me how they are done. :'( :'(
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Hope all goes well for you ST. Have the same operation in my future. Thats part of the reason I am no longer in forestry work.
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Nine years ago I had both knees replaced at the same time and then as soon as I was on my feet, I had a back operation. That had me stiff as a board for a while. I would have to go down steps backwards. Couldn't negotiate sloping ground etc. Never any trouble with either knee after the stiffness faded away. Today they are like my own knees.
While in the hospital, everyone else were hip patients. They did better than the knees but those getting both hips - they did one at a time. They made me stand on my knees the next day after the replacement. That was the hard part.
I think I did the right thing. Luckily there's been no hip problems.
Good luck.
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I have planned to do something like that when I have had a hip replaced (hopefully this winter), and the 560 is decently run in - but at the moment I am not able to run a saw for real at all!
You can send me that 560 and I'll break that Ole girl in for ya! ;D Good luck with the surgery.
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Yes good luck with the surgery Niko and I'm sure you'll be happy that you got it done after you recovered.
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Going to have to find me one of these 562xp shirts in a 2xl.
http://70.86.19.194/Emails/2011/November/black-friday.html
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Thanks guys, for the encouragement! ;D
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Dont worry Niko we will break your 560xpg in, better go check the saw stash :D. Also looks like one of those Norway trees with the 15" bar buried too. ;D
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That may be, my saw came with a 15" and .325, but I had it changed to 16" and 3/8" at the spot, by the dealer! ;D
I see no point in using that saw with .325 chain, but will of course try .325x8 with 21LP at some point, just for the hell of it! ;)
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562xp at a Maine gtg in Oct.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpzNJIwERjg&feature
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Owner of new 562xp said 28" cutting elm.
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n580/scootergoodwrench/th_20100530054549.jpg) (http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/n580/scootergoodwrench/?action=view¤t=20100530054549.mp4)
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562xp at a Maine gtg in Oct.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpzNJIwERjg&feature
Looks pretty good! ;D
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Some pictures inside a 562XP
Captive nuts on chain cover
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/His56248.jpg)
Etching on crankshaft counter weight
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5621.jpg)
Crank assembly with full circle adapters
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56210.jpg)
Jug off view of crankcase showing relief for cylinder intake ports on front side,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus562100.jpg)
Spec Sheet
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/sides_jeff1/saw511.jpg)
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562 with jug off and piston/rod towards front. The wire is the ground connection for the stop switch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus562102.jpg)
Exterior view of exhaust port on jug showing extreme down angle
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus562103.jpg)
Camera focused inside exhaust port from outside showing shape and finish
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus562104.jpg)
Exterior view of carb/intake assembly from top
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus562105.jpg)
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562 crankshaft full circle adapter
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56211.jpg)
Crankcase split showing left half with crank assembly
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56212.jpg)
From the top right
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56213.jpg)
Inside left half of oil tank
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56214.jpg)
From a lower angle
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56215.jpg)
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From inside right case half
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56216.jpg)
Crankshaft PTO end
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56217.jpg)
Crankcase with jug and piston removed from the left rear high
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56219.jpg)
Bearing, rod, big end
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5622.jpg)
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562 crankcase from rear high
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56220.jpg)
Crankcase from right rear
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56221.jpg)
Crankcase looking at PTO side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56222.jpg)
Oil strainer/pickup
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56223.jpg)
Oil pump in place
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56224.jpg)
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562 right side of crankcase showing clutch and bar studs
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56225.jpg)
Down inside crankcase from right side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56226.jpg)
From front left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56227.jpg)
Gas tank top
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56228.jpg)
From right side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56229.jpg)
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562 crankshaft from rear with flywheel end on left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5623.jpg)
Captive nuts close up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56230.jpg)
Coil close up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56231.jpg)
Behind flywheel close
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56232.jpg)
Behind flywheel farther back
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56233.jpg)
Coil and flywheel in place
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56234.jpg)
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Left intake port from outside
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56235.jpg)
Inside left intake port cover
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56236.jpg)
Underneath showing front AV and oiler adj.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56237.jpg)
Close up in chain area
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56238.jpg)
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Operator present lever on handle close up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56239.jpg)
Rod beam close up
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5624.jpg)
Rear handle
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56240.jpg)
Muffler from side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56241.jpg)
muffler rear
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56242.jpg)
Muffler from front
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56243.jpg)
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Front of crankcase
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56244.jpg)
Saw bottom
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56245.jpg)
Saw front with muffler removed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56248.jpg)
3/4 view of cylinder from the left front
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56249.jpg)
Close up of fillet on crankshaft
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5625.jpg)
Left side of cylinder with intake attached
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56250.jpg)
Looking down on crankcase. Front is to the right
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56251.jpg)
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ID plate and safety strap on AV
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56252.jpg)
Front 3/4 of saw from RT side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56253.jpg)
Air box floor from RT side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56254.jpg)
Spark plug and compression release pockets in cylinder head
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56255.jpg)
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Cylinder head penthouse from right side?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56256.jpg)
Farther back
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56257.jpg)
Cylinder 3/4 from RT Frnt
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56258.jpg)
Cylinder from right
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56259.jpg)
Crank assm. PTO left flywheel RT. Notice lubrication hole for clutch bearing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5626.jpg)
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Left front lower corner of cylinder looking down through intake port
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56260.jpg)
Bottom of cylinder from front
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56261.jpg)
Another view of cylinder intake port at bottom of cylinder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56262.jpg)
Right intake port looking into cylinder from outside
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56263.jpg)
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Carb port on cylinder from inside. Notice the hole for the impulse line and the air ports on each side that align with the pockets in the piston.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56264.jpg)
Same view from a slightly different angle
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56265.jpg)
View inside cylinder with port to carb on left and exhaust on right. X Torq port and intake transfer port in between
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56266.jpg)
Inside cylinder with exhaust port on right and intake port on left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56267.jpg)
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Piston from intake side showing X Torq air channels on both sides
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56268.jpg)
Another view of exhaust port from outside showing finish.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56269.jpg)
Another view of crankshaft without full circle stuffer plates
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5627.jpg)
Cylinder from left side with intake attached
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56270.jpg)
Where carb attaches
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56271.jpg)
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Looking up through ports of cylinder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56272.jpg)
Looking at Strato passage on side of piston
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56273.jpg)
Strato passages on sides of piston
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56274.jpg)
Ring pin in piston
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56275.jpg)
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Inside of piston showing reduced area because of Strato passages on outside
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56276.jpg)
Side view of piston
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56277.jpg)
Crankcase with piston
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56278.jpg)
Crankcase muffler area from flywheel side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56279.jpg)
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Crank assembly with full circle stuffers along side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5628.jpg)
Port passage in crankcase
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56280.jpg)
Looking down in crankcase
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56281.jpg)
Small crankcase volume?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56282.jpg)
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Piston top with flame travel and port shadow image
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56283.jpg)
Combustion chamber is machined
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56284.jpg)
Carb and air induction assembly
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56285.jpg)
Muffler
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56288.jpg)
Piston from right side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56289.jpg)
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Fit of full circle stuffers on crankshaft
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus5629.jpg)
Looking into carb
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56290.jpg)
Another view of piston showing Strato passages
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56291.jpg)
Another view of carb assembly
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56292.jpg)
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Another look inside the cylinder with the carb port in the center with impulse port and then the strato entrances on each side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56293.jpg)
Another look up through the generous intake transfers in the cylinder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56294.jpg)
Outside view of right side of cylinder intake port transfer cover. Notice the tamper proof Torx screws
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56295.jpg)
Another look inside the cylinder
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56296.jpg)
Strato passages on intake manifold
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56297.jpg)
Carb with vent slot for metering valve and outlet tube for the purge bulb
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56298.jpg)
Auto Tune side of carb
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Husky%20562XP/Hus56299.jpg)
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great pictures , I got a 562 on its way to play with, should be here I hope by next weekend and we will see if I can make it talk
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I got so interested in the 562 while working with the pictures, that I want to get one now.
It looks like it would be a mighty good 60cc saw - even stock.
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the 562 I'm getting is going to be a everyday work saw falling maple so it will be a good test on how they work out , I can sure see some of the differences in these saw compared to what the 575 has in them when it first came out
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I'm thinking the 562 is more of a 2nd generation X-Torq engine.
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I would think if not their third shot at making the new motors , they have made everything quite close to the 575 in ways but totally different in others , the transfer ports caps are a good idea compared to the 575 pipes they use and I'm thinking just by looking they are as big if not bigger than the 575's transfer runners , forsure a better crankcase , air will move alot easier in this design
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It surely is the start of 2nd generation strato saws, as this time the weight goes down, and not up. The 562xp is the heavier version though, and basically weights the same as the 262xp - the 560xp is lighter. ;)
Mine is a 560xpg, the heated handles are needed here. ;D
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The 562xp is the heavier version though, and basically weights the same as the 262xp - the 560xp is lighter. ;)
I'm CORNfused. Wonder where the extra weight comes from. ???
560xp Weight (excl. cutting equipment) 12.35 lbs
562xp Weight (excl. cutting equipment) 12.57 lbs
555 Weight (excl. cutting equipment) 12.35 lbs
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The 562XP has the bigger bar format
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I know I'm going to catch hell for saying this but I never liked the 262 , I have owned 5 of them and found when cutting the hardwood from where I'm from they had no balls at all , sure cutting small stuff they worked great but we donot cut small stuff most of the times , I hope the new 562 is better than what the 262 sure was , I hope to have it next week and I got a stock 361 to compare it to
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I feel the same way Ed about the 262 being over rated. My 60cc Poulan open port had no problem cutting with a 262xp I had that was like new with MM.
At the end of the day 2 of us using the 2 saws both liked the handling, feel, and cut of the 3750 better then 262 after cutting hardwoods all day.
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You know I took one of those crap husky that was on springs mounts , it was a 45 and it would out cut the 262 in hardwood , sure in 8 by 8 the 262 was faster but in 20 inch maple it sure was not , that 45 was for some reason unreal fast for a stocksaw and it was stock as it was torn down lots of times , I sold that saw to a guy that races in stock class and its still kicking ass
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I just used them to carry on the skidder just in case I had a top to cut off
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When the 262XP came out in the late 1980s it was technology us loggers in cut and skid softwood never saw before. [hardwood was a weed, left on the ground to rot] The 262XP was a good saw, first with air injection and the first with spring anti-vibe. It was the new and improved 162 [a saw BTW that turned the chainsaw industry on its ear way back in 1976.]
Stihl didn't have a good 60cc then, just the 034 Super. The 262 and the Jonsered 630 easily out muscled the 034S. I was running a 044 and 064 at the time and working for Stihl so I never had the chance to log with the 262XP.
I remember upper management at Stihl making fun of the spring anti vibe and air injection on the new 262XP. But look who's using it today. ;)
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Here's a You Tube video on the Strato system and its theory of operation. This example is made up much like the 562 with the transfers on the front of the engine except they show the air above the carb instead of below it. There is no sound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY7zQKw4qsQ
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softwood is a weed here , you walk right pass it , Mostly we cut high grade hard maple and oak , cherry , yellow birch , In the early 80's it was pretty much solid 2100's up north and most guys thought any thing smaller was a waste of time
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The 262 was not a firewood/ hw log saw. Even the 61 Husky was better suited to that type of work. The 262 was a great pulp/ sw log saw down East. Good power, ok weight, and small bar made it a good saw here. The only trouble was the 254 could do the same job with less weight and was cheaper.
Alot of people put down the Husky 362 and Jon version but for here they were great. Outsold the 372 by a wide margin. Used ones still bring big dollars.
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I'm sure they sold more 61's up north than any other husky saw , next would be the 365 .
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When the 262XP came out in the late 1980s it was technology us loggers in cut and skid softwood never saw before. [hardwood was a weed, left on the ground to rot] The 262XP was a good saw, first with air injection and the first with spring anti-vibe. It was the new and improved 162 [a saw BTW that turned the chainsaw industry on its ear way back in 1976.]
Stihl didn't have a good 60cc then, just the 034 Super. The 262 and the Jonsered 630 easily out muscled the 034S. I was running a 044 and 064 at the time and working for Stihl so I never had the chance to log with the 262XP.
I remember upper management at Stihl making fun of the spring anti vibe and air injection on the new 262XP. But look who's using it today. ;)
I agree, except that the 262xp is a smaller and lighter saw than the 162 - it belongs to the 154-family, and not to the 162-family, despite the bore and stroke is the same as the 162 and 630. It also make more power than those.
The highly variable opinions on the 262xp is a bit odd..... :o
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Thanks for the correction Niko. So being in the 154 family the 262XP would be the better choice even over the 61 or 630 Jonny for pulpwood harvesting spruce and pine. The last of the commercial logged stands of softwood in southern Ontario and the NE USA were logged out many years ago and never came back.
Our pulp /paper mill [Tolko] here in northern Manitoba is still producing with record production SPX paper that is some of the strongest paper [cement bags]in the world from spruce/jack pine.
Many other mills around the country are not so lucky.
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The 262 has the same mount as a 346
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So the 262XP being a small mount the same as the modern 346XP, would make the 262XP a good choice for the "softwood professional" back 20 -23 yrs ago, especially with the partial spring mount and air injection to keep the air filter running clean longer.
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Got my 562 last night , I put 7 tanks threw it now but will put a total of 20 or so top make sure she is broken in good before doing timed cuts , I really like the saw so far, nice and light with lots of torque
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Ed carbs are autotune? If so do you think it will adjust enough for woods porting?
The 555 the guy did here with just a muffler mod did he said.
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262 is not a felling saw, that is what gave them such bad rep. Many overloaded and ran them hot.
It is a powerful limbing saw much like 560 today.
I fear that many think this is a good felling saw too.
These new ignitions can trick us in thinking it is lots of torq. It holds rpm well, but gets really hot then, especially in warmer weather.
550 was milder and could not be loaded the same way the 560 can.
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ya its what they call a auto tune but I'm not to worried about that , I'm pretty sure I can figure it out pretty easy if it needs more fuel, Mangus I lean hard on it today and it took it . myself I'm more thinking its not a limbing saw but more a blocking saw . I am sure it could handle a 24 inch bar with no trouble but I got a 18 inch on it and it feels just about perfect . In the test it will be running a 20 inch bar and the same chain on both saws
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Where I live there is no felling saw and separate limbing saw. One saw does both jobs. Husky 254 was perfect in my area. 372 too heavy. Most crews now run 346 or Stihl 261.
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I'm kind of thinking the auto tune can adjust quite abit cause I sure know the first tank of fuel did not last long , I think I was 8 minutes and out but the second tank was about double that
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I agree , I have a hard enough time carrying 1 saw plus my gas and oil .
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I tried the 2 saw thing for one day. Spent more time walking around with saws than I did working. Had the 7900 and 5100 you ported for me. Next day left the 7900 in the truck and cut everthing with the 5100.
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They have these saws listed up to a 28" bar. I find that surprising for cc.
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Ya I know in my OLD age I look at the smaller saws way before the bigger ones but it just depends on what I'm cutting and how close the skidder is to my ass , I have been cutting mostly with a couple ported 361's I have , I run 20 inch bar on 1 and 25 inch on the other
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576 will compensate for porting with autotune. Here's a video from one of the other sites. Mwebas 555 compensated for a muffler mod also.
http://youtu.be/I7HvIOfgiec (http://youtu.be/I7HvIOfgiec)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7HvIOfgiec&feature
;)
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I hope you are right, Ed.
These new ignition and fuel systems will not let engine loose rpm, but it will still overload, get hot etc...
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We will see Magnus
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They really need to get something good out, I hope these will hold up.
Autotune system in the 550 seems to be a good thing. It will show if this is the future. Can't blame setting on user anyway.
Overloading, perhaps they can, but if they look in the log they can see a lot and get a more accurate feedback than we normally get from customers.
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So far I really like the 562 but like everyone says time will tell
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262 is not a felling saw, that is what gave them such bad rep. Many overloaded and ran them hot.
It is a powerful limbing saw much like 560 today.
I fear that many think this is a good felling saw too.
These new ignitions can trick us in thinking it is lots of torq. It holds rpm well, but gets really hot then, especially in warmer weather.
550 was milder and could not be loaded the same way the 560 can.
I suspect you are generalising a bit too much, as it surely will depend on the wood! ;)
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More user than wood i think...
How many users know when they overload or running a tad hot regardless of wood?
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well I got about 14 tanks of fuel threw the 562 now so hopefully by the weekend I will have her fully broken in and can test it against the other saws
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262 is not a felling saw, that is what gave them such bad rep. Many overloaded and ran them hot.
It is a powerful limbing saw much like 560 today.
I fear that many think this is a good felling saw too.
Magnus , I can't seeing felling being an issue. Now heavy bucking at the landing I can see a problem. Felling big old growth timber would be too much, but the saw wasn't designed for that size timber. The longest b/c I would run on the 262Xp would be 16"- 18" max and the timber I'd fall wouldn't be that big. If I needed more power at that time I'd go 268XP.
The issue with these older Huskies like the 262XP was they had the carb directly bolted to the cylinder. They even chromed the stud bolts to cut down on the heat transfer to the carb. On a hot summer day the saw can overheat with poor atomization of the fuel causing a lean condition from a heated up carb.
In the winter [ below freezing ] these saws work the best with their winter kits installed, to make them run warmer cutting down on snow and cold air intake through the rewind housing. Also the air injection is blocked with a plate and heat from the cylinder is blown to the carb through a hole inside the top cover.
During those 1980- 90 years the old saying went: the Husqvarna was a good winter cold weather saw and the Stihl with its heat insulated rubber intake manifold was a good summer saw.
But generalizing the 262XP being a poor falling saw is not right.
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I know, but problem is when the custemer gets a saw that is powerful enough to pull longer bars and do well heavy bucking.
They run them hot, overload them.
Same thing will happen to the 562... I heard it as they showed it, guy's whispering will it handle 24"?
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I believe that will happen a lot more often in (parts of) the US than over here, as the attitude on bar lengths are very different. It doesn't help that Husky is recommending up to 28" bars on the 562xp..... ::)
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I know, but problem is when the custemer gets a saw that is powerful enough to pull longer bars and do well heavy bucking.
They run them hot, overload them.
Same thing will happen to the 562... I heard it as they showed it, guy's whispering will it handle 24"?
The 262XP or any other XP model Husqvarna is designed for the professional user. I would say that a dealer selling a XP saw to a weekend cutter would not be an issue, seeing most of these customers wouldn't spend the extra money to buy one. But many weekenders do buy well used XP saws which is no longer Husqvarna's responsibility to offer warranty.
From Mike Acres site the 262XP is supplied with 20" b/c being the longest. Now I can't say if this is Husqvarna's quote, but 20" seems about right.
We'll just have to wait and see if these new 560/562 XP saws are bulletproof compared to the older models.
So far my three 2 yr old 576XP AT's that Husqvarna and my dealer gave me for my chainsaw competitions are holding out very well, only had a issue with one computer and the throttle linkage.
You can see these saws cut on www.trappersfestival.com click on logger events on the 2012 left hand side bar. Sorry my photographer was terrible and she didn't video both saws as they were cutting in pairs. Click on both 2011 video and photos. Some good photos on the 2009 - 2010 near the top of the sidebar,click on chainsaw events. The 2010 women's speed cutting winner never used a chainsaw before this event, doing it left handed too.
In the 2011 photos you will notice the now extinct Oregon Powermatch Double Guard bar noses I installed on the bars for extra safety plus the metal foot guards.
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I believe that will happen a lot more often in (parts of) the US than over here, as the attitude on bar lengths are very different. It doesn't help that Husky is recommending up to 28" bars on the 562xp..... ::)
Very well said Niko, I could not have said it better.
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562 video break down
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gzuyjvSp1A
I have seen 2 ported now 1 in pics and this is the only video of one done on the mild side. 28"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awH8Hylzg4c
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I hope to have my done this weekend , I'm really making sure everything is a close to the same between ported and stock, this is why I have put 25 tanks or so threw the saw to start with, , If they will leave me alone for 4 hours or so I will be done but they want more trees cut ;D
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Thanks for posting the video Kevin. Thats what I was gonna do till I saw you already did. Mitch did a great job on her. i do not believe that saw has a pop up either. I believe Mitch said this would be his go to saw so nothin fancy. I would imagine more could be gotten out of the 562. However, I personally wouldnt have anything against her stock or a mild port like Mitch did in the video Kevin posted.
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I hope to have my done this weekend , I'm really making sure everything is a close to the same between ported and stock, this is why I have put 25 tanks or so threw the saw to start with, , If they will leave me alone for 4 hours or so I will be done but they want more trees cut ;D
I believe it is best to start modding with a run-in saw, regarding valid comparisons! ;D
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I hope to have my done this weekend , I'm really making sure everything is a close to the same between ported and stock, this is why I have put 25 tanks or so threw the saw to start with, , If they will leave me alone for 4 hours or so I will be done but they want more trees cut ;D
I believe it is best to start modding with a run-in saw, regarding valid comparisons! ;D
My 1986 Stihl 064 with 084 carb has over 2000 hours on the bottom end [crank & bearings] the P/ C doesn't have near that many hours though. ;D
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I've modded a 562.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTmJf_v1Yxk&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtqIqkR00Jw&feature=g-upl&context=G2d5a02cAUAAAAAAACAA
I ain't got freakin clue how to embed on here. :(
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I've modded a 562.
I ain't got freakin clue how to embed on here. :(
You got them embedded somehow. 562 is looking good 8)
MOS figured out on embed click share on youtube and then click LONG link and copy it and post that.
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Looks really good Randy!!!
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Anyone got a stop watch to time the 2 fastest 1 cuts stock to ported? Mine good one is missing from the desk.
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It took the saw about five minutes to "learn". Since then it's been running perfect with the mods. I cut the muffler in half, removed the baffles then added a piped exhaust outlet. That was the worst part of modding this saw.
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So Randy, what were your % gains from stck to modded? Also, what would be the next level for this saw.....pop up piston, cutting the combustion chamber? Thanks Randy.
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looks very good Master, I have not had any time yet, just got back from a funeral but should be finished soon, as I know Jeff is waiting with his hands sweating to run the 562 ;D
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So Randy, what were your % gains from stck to modded? Also, what would be the next level for this saw.....pop up piston, cutting the combustion chamber? Thanks Randy.
I don't ever lay numbers on these things Paul. There just far too many variables at play when using a saw. If a butterfly farts in Brazil my saw slows up a tad. :D
This saw has a .025 popup. That's probably why is slow. :'(
looks very good Master, I have not had any time yet, just got back from a funeral but should be finished soon, as I know Jeff is waiting with his hands sweating to run the 562 ;D
Call me Randy....please. The name Mastermind is a username that I used when I played chess online a lot. It just showed up when I clicked the username box on the first saw forum I sign up to....I thought what the hell and used it. lol
This saw has a .025 base gasket and the squish is good from the factory. By ditching the gasket I could spin a popup without cutting the base. I did have to relieve the cylinder walls a little though. A stock piston can be put back in by using the base gasket.
I did nothing to the intake or strato side of things. They have the intake opening a few degrees ahead of the stratos....I think that's a real good idea. Of course lowering the jug increased the timing on both. I raised and widened the exhaust and polished everything.
I'm well pleased with the way it turned out.
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I will be using a base gasket that is for sure and this saw is going to be cutting fairly big maple so its got to live pretty easy cause its going to get warm in the long cuts
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It looks very good Randy. You did a great job on her IMO.
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So Randy, what were your % gains from stck to modded? Also, what would be the next level for this saw.....pop up piston, cutting the combustion chamber? Thanks Randy.
I don't ever lay numbers on these things Paul. There just far too many variables at play when using a saw. If a butterfly farts in Brazil my saw slows up a tad. :D
.........
I believe you are right about not putting a % number on it, just for that reason!
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So Randy, what were your % gains from stck to modded? Also, what would be the next level for this saw.....pop up piston, cutting the combustion chamber? Thanks Randy.
I don't ever lay numbers on these things Paul. There just far too many variables at play when using a saw. If a butterfly farts in Brazil my saw slows up a tad. :D
.........
I believe you are right about not putting a % number on it, just for that reason!
I thought you would like that Nikko.
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Sorry but I just had to know.
Yes I realize new and UNseated rings on stock and woods ported and it will break in.
stock quickest cut 6.24 seconds and woods ported I found some 4.0's toward the end and 4.04 was best. Nice.
Be interesting to see the gains again after 10-20 tanks and broke in. But that piece of wood and chain will be long gone by then.
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that is why I put I'm not sure but at least 40 plus tanks threw this 562 before porting cause I want to know how much it really gains , I'm honestly thinking you are not going to gain as much as as you would on a normal saw say like a 372 but there is lots of room left in the jug , biggest thing is to remember its a torque motor and if you try and port it like a higher rpm motor you just bought yourself a boat anchor ;D
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Like Randy , I'm going to have to go with no base gasket, just not enough materail left on the base of the jug, my base gasket is .030 thick so with a pop up I should get some pretty good compression
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Like Randy , I'm going to have to go with no base gasket, just not enough materail left on the base of the jug, my base gasket is .030 thick so with a pop up I should get some pretty good compression
I see you got it down and saw what I was looking at. I also noticed that the gasket was blocking the transfer passages a bit too.
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I really like using the base gasket on other peoples work saws as they do get them real hot some times and the gasket maker stuff just cannot handle the heat and I have tried everything , most people its no problem but some people can just about kill any thing made so I try to build as close to bullet proof as I can
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I use a loctite product Ed. It's rated at over 400 degrees. I did use Threebond for a long time, but it squeezes out and blocks transfers a little.
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I use a loctite product myself and have for years and it also stands alcohol which 99.9% of the products will not
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there is more left on the table but I ended up pretty much 6 tenths faster than a stock 7900 in 18 inch hardwood , I will try it there for a while and see how the autotune likes these mods , videos are on youtube
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Ed how about a link to your utube channel?
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Not sure if I'm allowed to do that , but just go to ehpsaws on youtube
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Not sure if I'm allowed to do that , but just go to ehpsaws on youtube
Heck yes you can Ed this isn't that other site. If you need help embedding video we are here to help. Just post link and one of us will fix.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngJBQ1O9k6k, see if this works
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlx3b7KJrXo 7900 stock
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLEcIqMC194 , stock 361
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQaLhdGuh4Q stock 562
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there is still lots left inside you can do but I think this is enough for a full time worksaw that is going to be falling maple and blocking firewood , The saw sure does have lots of torque
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there is still lots left inside you can do but I think this is enough for a full time worksaw that is going to be falling maple and blocking firewood , The saw sure does have lots of torque
I agree Ed. This saw is full of potential. I'll be building another next week some time. I have no plans to go any further on it either. A worksaw it will be.
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they will make a great worksaw , to make a racesaw out of it will forsure take some work . The saw comes up on rpms so hard it makes you wonder ;D
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Fantastic thread! Nice work guys
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I noticed there is a confusion about the carb and its control system.
Here we are told to hook the saws up and update to latest software before sales. That way we avoid having same buggs and problems faster.
Also report problems and prevent lots of problems on other saws.
I talked to a couple dealers in US that sold the 555 and 562, they had no idea what i talked about and had not ordered the switch and connections to do this. It was not something HVA informed of, it seems...
I fear there is lots of saws out now that has not been updated before sales.
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The diagnostics tools are not available here yet. Our local rep didn't even know such a thing existed. BO til April last I heard
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Wow. Nice work Ed. Same for you too Randy and Mitch. All great jobs guys.
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The diagnostics tools are not available here yet. Our local rep didn't even know such a thing existed. BO til April last I heard
He didn't look in the IPL then! ;)
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Not really a surprise either, ST
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Here they will not let us sell saws that isn't updated.
In US you don't have tools for it?
Is it just me or doesn't this seem very odd?
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Here they will not let us sell saws that isn't updated.
In US you don't have tools for it?
Is it just me or doesn't this seem very odd?
No we do not have the tools and its no surprise. Inquired about a piston stop for the new plug holes and they couldn't understand why it would be any different.
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mweba I fixed the quote for you above. When the site updated software something screwed up the direct quote option.
In this thread explains the 2 ways to quote a post now. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/general-discussion/%27quote%27-not-working/
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Dealers in the know have them right here in the USA too.
((((Hooked up to HVA's downloadable engine tune system, which tell's the engine mechanic what's been going on with saw. I will also hook it up to 562XP that's been out in the field also. So I can see what's been going on with that one too.Tthe learning process has begun on these new saws.))))
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What specifically does the tool give a read out on? Is it a graph set over the past so many run times or a complete history?
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You got me, maybe Magnus will tell us all.
The one in pic is from William Greene's shop I guess in CT. He posted the pic in another 555 562 thread elsewhere.
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Could the future hold for us a tool you plug in and change timing etc to hop up like we can cars now days. ::)
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You can see how many starts, stops, logged faults, rpms, service notes, date started, date software was released and version etc...
Settings, I believe there is a extended version were you alter all settings. Not sure if that is available every were.
I haven't tried this and I hope i don't need to for a long time...
I talked to one of the developers of this and it sounds very good.
It will eliminate the operator faults and leave no one to blame for lean running, overheating, over reving etc. This should handle this and make sure it runs right at all times..
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I tell you one thing...
I would not let one of these out my door unless it was updated to latest version of software (as they tell us to).
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Could the future hold for us a tool you plug in and change timing etc to hop up like we can cars now days. ::)
Nothing is impossible, just need one person with the talent and interest. Would be nice if one could flash a detuned module as well.
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Not very many dealers have the tool that I know of, we cannot even buy the 562 up here yet never mind the tool but in a month or so we are to be able to buy the 562 but be ready to bend over huge for it , From what I was told the carb on the 562 will be used on 4 models with just hooking up the tool to it and setting the carb to which motor it is on , Thanks I agree that the 562 does motor wood very well
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550, 555, 560, 562 Have same control system and are delivered from factory with setting used then.
As you hook it up before sales and set saw up you have the latest most correct version for best performance and less buggs.
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More saw models will use this system in future.
I am told Jonsered will use same as well as some models in commercial grade brands.
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Some more...
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:o Thanks for sharing that Magnus. Scares me and my old school tuning.
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I think this is OK.
This way there is no operator fault that can't be shown and proven.
I think it will help tell the truth a bit to what is is built and how it is run more accurately.
If it runs to lean it isn't operators fault, if it is set correct, it isn't wrenchers fault either.
This is a good way to get real undisputed feedback on what they build.
The 5-series saws that bust cranks and cook here this fall will help making the others last if it gets reported.
Unless HVA US set all saws before delivery to dealer the saws sold have factory/default settings.
That is not optimal or very good. They should be updated with latest availeble version.
Here we are to hook them up every time they go thru the door.
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How does the autotune monitor how the engine is running to make adjustments? EGT sensor, air flow sensor, RPM sensor?
Ian
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Ian
Welcome Ian.
Been a long time since I have seen you around. Hows the ported 372 running?
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Runs real nice. Ed did a great job on it. It's good to see him back at it. I've not been following the chainsaw crowd regularly for a couple years and when chainsawperformance went down, I assumed that his shoulders had retired him from the biz. B Snelling got me in touch with Randy (mastermind) and he told me about this site when I was inquiring about a port job for a buddy's 359 a couple days ago. I see lots of the old familiar names. You, Al Smith, EHP, Sawtroll and a few others that I recognize.
Ian
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It is rpms I think. There is no air flow meter or temo guage no thing that tell what fumes contain either.
It does measure fuel though.
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Porting usually changes the RPM at which the saw runs right, usually bumps it from a few hundred up to a thousand, right? If the autotune is trying to make it run at stock RPMs, seems like it would be running rich all the time. You'd have to get into the module and change the target WOT RPM in order for the autotune to function correctly. I guess since it's been done and works right without hacking the module, that's not the case though. ???
Ian
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Nice to hear from you Ian , Chainsawperformance was never my site , it was Russ's and with him changing jobs and life he just did not have the time then it got hacked and never could get it back . For me I never quit as I always have lots of stuff to play with here , Sure I had some tough months in there with the tumors are all but I'm back playing like normal .
The carb on the 562 is quite able to adjust quite well to different things , were not done on the 562 yet as when I get a couple hours were going to try some other stuff that should gain close to 10% more power
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Very good info Magnus! ;D
Sounds like some (US) dealers need to do their homework..... :o
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Perhaps they don't get to know it from HVA USA. It appears to be more like that anyway...
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Perhaps they don't get to know it from HVA USA. It appears to be more like that anyway...
This is likely the case, it is in our area anyway. No knowledge of software upgrades at all here....
Will start learning today though. The tool showed up unexpectedly.
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I see lots of the old familiar names. You, Al Smith, EHP, Sawtroll and a few others that I recognize.
Ian
You might remember me too Ian. Its good to see you here. I still remember all those crazy posts I spent time on over there at AS.
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It's OK Ian, it's cool to talk to me now.............we're no longer on AS :D ;D :D
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You're that fellow that cut down 5 million trees right? ;)
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Now one thing I found the motor likes but the autotune does not and that is advancing the flywheel timing , when you do that you have to give the low speed abit more fuel and it did not seems to do that , sure it ran faster but was just to lean for me
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If you reset the settings in carb after mod it could set itself more correct.
But there is limits to what carb can deliver fysically.
When you hook it up you will see how much fuel it gives in percent to what to what it can.
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Another good thing to know....
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You're that fellow that cut down 5 million trees right? ;)
No, over 2................ ::) ;)
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I just finished up my chainsaw race competitions at our local winter festival. My three 576 auto tunes that I supply for the contest ran flawlessly. But I did notice when getting them ready for the event is that they won't run without the airfilter. Maybe some kind of built in safety feature?
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Here's another pic of the AutoTune in action. This guy's name is Andrew Love :D and he's from the Outdoor Life Network film crew producing a program called "Get Stuffed" which will air on TV June 26th, 2012 on OLN.
A few pics of my winning carvers, they only had 4 hours to make these carvings. 1st place paid out $500 plus a 435 Husky saw, 2nd paid out $500, 3rd $400,4 th $200.
Last pic is myself and my very reliable timekeepers and book keeper, Marilyn, Lori and Sharon. Of the 20 years I've been organizing and running chainsaw competitions ,no one can match these women........if they already didn't have great jobs, I'd hire them for my tree crew.
The trailer / stage we're standing on , I built last week just in time for the festival. I got more plans to make it better for next year.
I had 40 speed cutters and 8 carvers this year.
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Seeing I started this thread here's one more :D
Husband and wife team, Jason and Laura Atkins who each took 1st place in the mens and womens speed cutting race, they proudly display their new Husky 435 prizes.
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No, over 2................ ::) ;)
;D ... been a few days since that thread, forgot the exact number.
Ian
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No, over 2................ ::) ;)
;D ... been a few days since that thread, forgot the exact number.
Ian
Yes it's been a while Ian, ha ha ha.
I sure opened a can of worms with that one didn't I ? I think it's best I put that one to rest :D
Willard.
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Yes it's been a while Ian, ha ha ha.
I sure opened a can of worms with that one didn't I ? I think it's best I put that one to rest :D
Willard.
Yep! ;)
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Maybe Spike can enlighten us regarding the info given to US dealers? ;D
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It almost looks like that tool should is mandatory to anyone that works on these saws, including those that port them! ;)
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There is not much you can do other than reset system, replace/check versions, add notes and see history.
http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17587
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You can also run diagnostic's on valve, throttle and temp guage....
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There is not much you can do other than reset system, replace/check versions, add notes and see history.
http://www.chainsawcollectors.se/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=17587
I guess it is possible to see the results of the mods you have done, within the parametres that the tool show?
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Manual Engine Diagnostic Tool pdf download link from host site. http://depositfiles.com/files/vrz92e7n9
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Manual Engine Diagnostic Tool pdf download link from host site. http://depositfiles.com/files/vrz92e7n9
LOL - I just got that one, on another site (but I like this site better). ;D
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You can also run diagnostic's on valve, throttle and temp guage....
Ah, so it does have a temperature monitoring system. Does it change the tuning if it senses the engine running too hot?
Ian
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Today side by side 357xp and 562xp both with 20". I really thought picking them up an down the 357 was lighter. JMO and feel.
Got to take the demo 562 for a few cuts. Cuts good for stock if I was wanting a 59cc saw. I guess I was just expecting more sorry. :-\
Thats $700 I dont have to worry about spending and I will just keep my ole stock poulan 60cc handy for that size saw.
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And i think a 357 feels heavy for a 60cc saw. :-X
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Although a 562 will walk all over a 357.
If we are stretching a dollar, my 3400 with a 4000 top end is a worthy adversary and treat to run :)
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Mitch I ask about the Diagnostic Tool ::) notta
I did bring home a leaf blower though. ;)
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Today side by side 357xp and 562xp both with 20". I really thought picking them up an down the 357 was lighter. JMO and feel.
Got to take the demo 562 for a few cuts. Cuts good for stock if I was wanting a 59cc saw. I guess I was just expecting more sorry. :-\
Thats $700 I dont have to worry about spending and I will just keep my ole stock poulan 60cc handy for that size saw.
The 562 etc are 59.8cc, not just 59.... ;) ;D
The 562 is a bit lighter (empty PHO), but not by a lot. The fuel and cutting attacment can easily turn that the other way - and different bars can weight differently, even though they are the same length.
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I believe this is a logical application of available technology. And maybe just a first iteration of what could ultimately be a refined system.
If engineered well enough this should have benefits of convenient and reliability for the average joe who just wants to cut wood.
I'd love to know more about the technology being used. If we knew the type of sensors being used then we could make some informed assumptions about the adjustment calcs.
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Yes I like the "convenience of the AutoTune" on my 576's. But I don't want to forget how to set the breaktone at WOT on a H-L screw carb.
How many auto mechanics [sorry I meant auto technicians] can tune a Holley 650 spread bore carb today?? ;)
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OK then it is a 60cc saw :D :D :D
Both saws had 20" bars were oregon powermatch and same type chains. 357 had small mount and 562 large mount. Got to be some weight gained on 562 there. How much I dont know.
Fuel and oil held would also increase the weights, but I never checked how much each holds.
All I know is THAT day lifting both the 357 felt lighter then the 562 in my hands lifting back and forth off the ground.
I think the reason the 562 demo was lacking it had to be a pretty new saw with not much run time on it. Seemed very easy to bog down in cut and peaky type powerband as it was.
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Throttle position, carb temp and rpm are the inputs.
My 562 is neither peaky nor heavier than a 357......beings it is with out a top and rear handle at the moment :'(
I hear you on the feel of both. Basically the same to me but also feels like the weight is pushed back for better balance.
Also, one must take into account, the cost of this saw will fill my propane tank for several months of heat. That is the way firewood cutters look at it.
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<"Throttle position, carb temp and rpm are the inputs">
Ah, ok, minimum of sensors, running in open-loop and reading look-up tables. And maybe using a stepper motor actuator for the L and H adjust? Just guessing on that. And what to use as power source?
Keep in mind this is a digital controller working the standard (analog) carb. Meaning, there's no high-tech magic here.
But, even so, I think it's innovative, smart business and marketing, and (evidently) cost effective.
Probably works just fine, too.
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The autotune has been out for quite a while already, not totally new technology. ;D
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Ok, I'm done. Couldn't be happier for a work saw.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzsG6lVWkhk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzsG6lVWkhk)
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Looks great. So did MM cut you a pop up?
Is that a 24 or 28 bar sunk in? Looks good either way.
If you want someone to run it at the Ohio racing GTG June 2nd I will volunteer to put a 16" and chain it for some cant racing ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D I'll even test 7 and 8 for quickest timed cuts in 8x8 or 10x10 depending what we race in for you. ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Looks good Mitch. I bet it will be close to a lot of 70cc saws.
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Looks great. So did MM cut you a pop up?
Is that a 24 or 28 bar sunk in? Looks good either way.
If you want someone to run it at the Ohio racing GTG June 2nd I will volunteer to put a 16" and chain it for some cant racing ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D I'll even test 7 and 8 for quickest timed cuts in 8x8 or 10x10 depending what we race in for you. ;D ;D ;D ;D
Just a 20" in this vid and I was really leaning on it. 28" vid is loading.
Yes. Randy cut a .024 for me. Pop up pistons are not my thing as I tend to part ways with most saws. In this case though, just going without gasket allows .024-.025 with .021 squish. If something was to happen, a guy could throw a stock piston in it with gasket no problem. Besides this one isn't going anywhere.
I'm sure it could make an appearance in Ohio. Have to promise to return it though ;)
Looks good Mitch. I bet it will be close to a lot of 70cc saws.
Just looking at the times, it would walk on a stock 372X-torq. Pulling 10800-11500 with a 28" in the cut, with the right operator, I'm sure it would give many ported 72's a run.
These saws put out good HP for the size.....I sure hope it holds up lol
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I'm sure it could make an appearance in Ohio. Have to promise to return it though ;)
I promise :P :D 8)
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Here we go with a 28" guide full ch. This is the same wood that the 372XT was cutting in....for reference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9xwNDQeWXI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9xwNDQeWXI)
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Sounds good Niko! Those 560 /562 sure are beautiful looking saws. The 562 is available here in Canada now, we have to wait another year for the 560XP . So I'll probably just get the 562 right now, but I'd prefer the lighter 560XP .
But............ my honeymoon with my "brand new" 272XP is not over yet and it might keep me in love with it for another year , which then I'll just buy the 560XP in a years time. :D ;)
Well now 10 months later and seeing the 562 weighs 12.5 lbs and the 560 is 12.3 lbs according to the owners manual I see very little difference plus the 562 has slightly larger oil tank. So yesterday I went out and bought a new 562XP, 662 th unit built in the 8th week of 2012.
Right out of the box the saw runs like a well broke in saw, no throttle lag, just rips right to WOT. Ran it for 8 hrs yesterday and realized in all my life I haven't run a saw that runs this long on a tank of fuel. Feels real nice with a 18" b/c.
Besides how well it runs and it's ergonomics , the best feature I like is it's master control switch with the "auto on ignition" , just tap the lever with my thumb and it shuts down, ready to go with the next pull of the starter rope. This feature saves alot of finger work throughout the day compared to the older Huskies .
This will now be my main saw for my one man tree service, but will keep the 272, 372 and 395 for the heavier cuts.
Here's a few pics comparing my 562XP and 272XP. The 562 is a full 1 inch longer then the 272 from the end of the rear handles to the front of the crankcases. The 372 is 1 1/2 inch longer and fatter then the 272.
The 272XP is still my favorite old school Husky due to it's compact design, and the fact that it can out torque my 372XP.
I'm gonna have alot of fun with this 562XP , even if it's only a lb. lighter then the 272.
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Nothing beats empirical, firsthand info. Thanks!
steve h.
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As far as I can find out, based on a lot of actual weightings, the true empty PHO weights are 12.3 lbs for the 560xp, and 12.8 for the 562xp.
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I have put some steady 12 hr days on the 562XP lately. Just finished up a powerline clearing contract last week, 2 miles X 60 feet. Everything from heavy underbrush to 36" dbh spruce.
The saw runs with no warmup lag in temps around 5 to 15 C, also very quick snappy powerband.I love the time saving "auto on" ignition switch.
Only had a few flooding problems when starting it up after lunch with the choke on and had to hold the throttle wide open to clear it out and start it. I guess the autotune was fooling itself at that semi warm condition.
But what's with the 562's air injection? The air filter at the end of the day is plugged.
My 372 could go a week or more before it got that bad under these conditions.
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As far as I can find out, based on a lot of actual weightings, the true empty PHO weights are 12.3 lbs for the 560xp, and 12.8 for the 562xp.
Niko there may have been a few changes in the Husqvarna camp. My 2012 562XP owners manual specs the 562 as 12.5 lbs, the 560XP 12.3 lbs.
In this situation the newer models are going on a diet, which is positive. Not like the early 1986 Stihl 064 for example going from 14.1 lbs to over 15 in the newer models.
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As far as I can find out, based on a lot of actual weightings, the true empty PHO weights are 12.3 lbs for the 560xp, and 12.8 for the 562xp.
Niko there may have been a few changes in the Husqvarna camp. My 2012 562XP owners manual specs the 562 as 12.5 lbs, the 560XP 12.3 lbs.
In this situation the newer models are going on a diet, which is positive. Not like the early 1986 Stihl 064 for example going from 14.1 lbs to over 15 in the newer models.
I know what they state in the US, but everything else points at 12.8 - that is still quite good though, and less than the 357xp actually weighted.
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Now I have only had this problem with the last 2 new 562's , you will be cutting fine then you run out of bar oil but you know you have bar oil in the saw , so you think maybe bar oil hole plugged up but what is going on is the rubber insert in the crankcase that passes the bar oil from the crankcase to the bar is folding over , the top part of the rubber is folding down ward and blocking the oil off , I just bent my rubber upwards and held it there for a while and so far no more troubles
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Ed, what week of 2012 were these two 562's built? The extra rubber or how they were mounted may go right back to that period of factory run. Mine is 8th of 2012 and haven't found that problem.
I remember in 1989 Stihl put longer fuel lines on their 3rd yr run of 064AV's. The airbox housing cover was pressing on the line causing it to kink, a little error the factory missed.
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I will have to checkas the saws are outside in the work truck but I know I order the newest 562's I could get just to try the new carb setup , I pushed the rubber back in and have not had a problem sense and these 2 new 562s seem to run better to me than the first 562's
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these 2 new 562s seem to run better to me than the first 562's
I guess it was a good thing I waited almost a year since they were introduced here in Canada. I'm really happy with my 562, the rev-boost has amazing snappy throttle response.
After heavy bucking the saw runs at a faster idle but not fast enough to turn the chain, programed cooling response??
The auto on ignition master control switch is a wonderful feature.
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I'm still scared.. a 365 instead.
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I'm having a hard time picking up and running my older Huskies now after running the 562. Just operating the old style choke control, slide ignition switch is now just a PIA.
Fuel economy with less time wasted fueling up and get the job done, hyper powerband right out of the box without even a muffler mod thanks to the rev boost, auto on master control switch, power /weight ratio is excellent, consistant peak performance without messing with carb adjustment screw settings.
It's all good, if this first 562 fails me, my dealer has another one in stock..............
Now just waiting for a 572XP and a 595XP 8)
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My Husqvarna dealer passed these onto me yesterday
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Havent seen that husqvarna 562 shirt before. Very cool. 8)
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Husqvarna Canada is really pushing the 562XP, big market up here in the great white north ;)
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....
Now just waiting for a 572XP and a 595XP 8)
I assume it won't be a very long wait, before something happens in the 70cc class - it would be a natural development....
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....
Now just waiting for a 572XP and a 595XP 8)
I assume it won't be a very long wait, before something happens in the 70cc class - it would be a natural development....
I hope so too Niko. This is what I'd like to see Husqvarna do. Discontinue the 72cc- 576XP AT and turn it into a 87cc- 586XP AT which will replace the 590XP.
The discontinued 72cc-576XP AT then can be upped in cc to 77-80cc.
Now having done all that Husky can now introduce a 72cc 572XP AT designed around the 562XP.
What will happen to the over 20 year old 395 and 3120 designs is hard to say. I don't think there is a big enough market to make the change............EPA then maybe :-\
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576 is considered 74cc = Cylinder displacement 73.5 cc http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/products/xp-saws/576-xp-autotune/#specifications
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576 is considered 74cc = Cylinder displacement 73.5 cc http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/products/xp-saws/576-xp-autotune/#specifications
Yep I made a misprint there, then the 576 should be upgraded to 80cc or so then :D