Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Jonsered => Topic started by: weimedog on December 01, 2011, 11:29:10 am
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I have a project 2051 I started last year and have struggled trying to get it to run well. It will run...just very lethargic as compared to other 2054's I seen.
At first it was built as a 2051 with a scuffed piston cleaned up with a new ring. It ran..just not right. It got an new Carb..no change. Then top end was swapped for a 2054...yet again no real change. SO, my theory is ignition and timing...so I swapped ignitions, no change...stumped.
Next place I want to look is related to the flywheel and resultant timing because my gut tells me its running like its retarded ignition timing. Slow to rev, no RPM's on top. Stops around 10K and that so lean its not usable. Need to have the low speed cranked out 2 full turns to idle and run while the high speed is almost shut to get even a little top end.
SO this leaves a few option I can think of...
1) partially sheared keyway on the flywheel.
2) Crankshaft keyway location off for a variety of possible reasons ranging from manufacturing to slipped stub in the crankshaft.
WHAT do you guys think?
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I was going to ask has flywheel ever been off to check to make sure at stock timing location.
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Another idea. WAG = Both magnets in flywheel still have strong pull?
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Another stab in the dark .If that thing has a self advancing coil it might not be advancing .I had this happened on two things ,well kind of .
One was an 042 Stihl that stayed on full retard ,no speed .Another was twin cylinder Briggs 18 HP that stayed on full advance .You couldn't turn it over because it fired too far ahead .Damned near smoked the starter trying .
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Since I have a 2051 and worked on all three models 2051 2054 2055 What you have here is AIR leakage end of story, these saws are EXTREME performers with rpms in the 14,000 range. (not 2054) The port timing and cylinder pressures MUST be spot on. They can be very hard to make run right when they leak, but act like other stuff.
They also have twice as many areas for leakage, case cracks are VERY common along casing seams.
Should idle with 1 turn out low high, 1 1/4 max, ignitions are standard E-lux no issues there.
Good power saws, just most were abused and now leak, I speak from experience.
Duane
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Guess next course of action is to tear it down to its core and stick back together with 1194 along case seams & seals if I can find them...nothing else seems to matter. Swapped out all parts accessible...so why would an air leak require "leaning" out the hi speed to make it run?
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Ordered the seals................We'll get 'er going!
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Saw atoms.....
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11485/sawatoms.jpg)
With 1194 and new seals under a 2054 open port top end curtsey of Spike60..:)
One thing I did find was the clutch side seal looked worn..but more important was the way the fuel and pulse lines were routed...They are way long partly because with the handles on its awkward to get to the carb....the pulse line in particular was all wadded under the carb. I cut almost 2 inches and made it a straight to the cylinder. I assembled the carb right after this pic and after the handles go on..It will be almost impossible to get to the pulse line..bet this is the answer I was hunting for. I can't see how that pulse line wasn't caved in with the bends it had to have at the length it was...
(http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11485/2054-1.jpg)