Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Metal Lathe Milling Machinist => Topic started by: farmboy on July 23, 2016, 10:58:34 pm
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Started looking for a lathe to do primarily cylinders pistons. Need a recommendations. Found this on CL in my area. http://asheville.craigslist.org/tls/5688091426.html http://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/5691668958.html
https://athensga.craigslist.org/tls/5686202527.html I'm liking this last one.
Shep
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The jet would be my pick if you can afford it. The 6" swing is almost too small on some larger cylinders.
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i like the jet. my old logan makes me wish for quick change gears like the jet has.
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Jet has been around a long time. Good stuff for the money. I personally like the history so the Logan's and South bends will be next on the list when the Atlas (Craftsman) runs its course. Something with at least 10inch swing and 24in between centers is more than enough and there are a lot of them out there. Having a tail stock is a must and having both a three and four jaw chuck a good start as well. Definitely go for quick change tooling. I was able to acquire and tool up that Atlas for under $1000. That was a goal. Next one will have a little more size & power.
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What do ya'll think about this: http://nwga.craigslist.org/tls/5835250246.html It's only 45 min from me. I'm thinking high on the money.
Shep
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That is smaller than my lathe and it's a 9x19. That will be a little small for some big cylinders.
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You don't want that thing .The only things worth buying on that sale are the tools and boxes .
For that amount of money you could buy a nice Southbend lathe and a real Bridgeport mill .Keep looking .
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Thanks guys!! Did a little research this AM agree w/ya'll. Will keep looking.
Shep
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Shep, if it was me I would want at least a 12 inch swing , main reason is the chucks to hold cylinders and stuff work better , the 9 inch or 10 inch you always seen so close to where the chuck does not want to hold the stuff , you end up swapping the jaws around all the time in the chuck and I found the bigger lathes cut closer to spec
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I hope to upgrade to a gunsmith lathe in the next year myself. The 9x19 grizzly has served me well.
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One thing I also do is if parts are small then buy a real good smaller chuck and made a mandrel to mount it on that can be held by the larger chuck on your lathe , it saves a lot of switching stuff around and is accurate . I machine a set of jaws on my larger chucks as well to help with holding saw parts
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I use a drill chuck in my 4 jaw.
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That's a good idea. I'll have to get that set up
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An amusing thing about chainsaws might be the irregular shapes and peoples ingenious methods of machining them .Some times it takes longer to make the holding fixtures than it does to machine the part.
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that is true as I have seen me spend a lot of time to get a holder built do make machining a part easy , if your doing lots of that same part then its worth it but when your doing pretty much one of a kind stuff it sometimes hardly seems worth it
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I've seen pictures of really ingenious methods of mounting cylinders,bore side out to cut the chambers down and some crude as a fence post that seemed to work .I myself have never delved into it but I have a theory yet to be proven .By using a grooved face plate with a center and using studs .It would still take month of Sundays to dial in the part so it turns true .Probably two hours to tram it in and 15 minutes to make the cut .
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Took me over an hour to cut one on a lathe with a plate studs and independent 4 jaw. I cut by hand in about 15-30 minutes
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I can't say aye or nay on cutting down the chamber .I'm not fully convinced it's the way to go .However should I ever try it I believe I could do it better with a milling machine than a lathe .
Again though you have to problem of how to mount the work piece .Not impossible of course just takes some time to think it through .
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It's not bad with a plate and 4 studs. Just takes forever to get zero runout up and down the bore. Best thing is if you wear out a piston you can put a new one in without machine work
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Im abit slow ok but this is what I did , I turned down a piece of alum. in a 3 jaw chuck , spun alum down so the its tight to bore size of jug, , with jug mounted on alum using the bore to be centered I then drilled the 4 holes that once threaded will hold the cylinder to the alum. so if you want to cut the squish band you can, its not perfect but it has you very close to center to start with
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A long time ago Cahoon had a cage like affair either chucked up in a 4 jaw or mounted to a face plate,forgot which to mount a cylinder bore side out
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Im abit slow ok but this is what I did , I turned down a piece of alum. in a 3 jaw chuck , spun alum down so the its tight to bore size of jug, , with jug mounted on alum using the bore to be centered I then drilled the 4 holes that once threaded will hold the cylinder to the alum. so if you want to cut the squish band you can, its not perfect but it has you very close to center to start with
Never thought of doing it that way.
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Why not just a fly cutter for the squish band?
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;D
wrong post....sorry
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What do you guys think about this one? https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/6047950919.html
Shep
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Might be tight between centers but the swing is fine. Be a good piece of old iron.
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Another one https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/tls/6084586264.html
Shep
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The Hardinge is probably the better of the two as far as accuracy .It,the English CVA and USA Monarch 10" EE are highly sought after toolmakers lathes .18" between centers is fine for chainsaw work but a little short for many other tasks .FWIW the CVA is almost a carbon copy of the Monarch .Both I think are 20" between centers ,the Monarch will swing 12.5"
A suggestion ,if you are unsure of what you are buying take a knowledgeable person with you and make certain you see it run under power before you buy it .No power,the price really drops .
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Just found this on local CL https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/d/12-craftsman-commercial-atlas/6286517446.html Have call in to buy.
Shep
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That is nice. Would be about perfect
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Just found this on local CL https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/d/12-craftsman-commercial-atlas/6286517446.html Have call in to buy.
Shep
That is Nice!!!
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If everything goes as planned will have it in a week to 10 days. The seller has agreed to deliver (he is about 1 1/2 hrs. from me) just need to work out the details.
Shep
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Things came together rapidly. He delivered lathe today. Looks better than pics.
Shep
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Well Shep when you get it all set up we will need some pics. Congrats that is very cool and you will be turning things for a lot more than chainsaws.
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Need help on boring bar. Randy (MM) says http://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/dodoinbobars.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=dodoinbobars&gclid=Cj0KEQiA3t-2BRCKivi-suDY24gBEiQAX1wiXEADRc_ooI673JhJVzW7tw5sUkC1BW_f3Fz02RKF4PQaAlON8P8HAQ this is what to get. Don't want to spend that kin of money if I don't have to. He is using a Kennametal bar saw it in a thread.
Shep
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You can make boring bars but it helps to have a milling machine .I've made them,modified discarded CNC tooling etc .My best is a modified insert type CNC drill that uses triangle carbide cutters .
If you want to try it let me know as I have some pictures of same some place if I can find them ,It's not a question of if but rather where they are .
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No milling machine. Am a novice on lathe and tooling. This is something I have wanted to learn how for a long time. Will probably have lots of questions.
Shep
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lathe 12×20 $250 I dont need but letting you guys know.
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Never seen something like above and I used some old stuff back in school. Anyone have a idea?
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I would say a gearbox from a car or truck has been used too get the extra gearing gearstick base seems visible in pic my Dad used a similar system on many machines. On top you can see what seems to be an electric motor mounted behind the gearbox and driving a pulley on one end with a pully and belt on the other end dropping down to the large gear pulleys
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Looks like an old Southbend with a Lima drive .The Lima armature ,obviously from Lima Ohio built what they called over arm adaptors to convert old line shaft machines from previously line shaft driven .They just got the proper sized motor and coupled it to a Ford Model A transmission.With a stepped vee belt pulley and the gears they could have many speeds .I've got a later Lima drive on one of my lathes circa 1912 .
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I got a craftsman 12 x 36 gear change lath, it's really an atlas. I found reciepts in tool boxes dated in the early 50's, I didn't get here till 1957. Also got a 1965 series one Bridgeport with some tooling. I just ain't smart enough to use it, self taught, I did learn how to cut threads.
DJ
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You can pick up some tricks on the internet .I'm self taught also but my dad was a tool and die maker at one time .That plus I've been around metal working machinery about all my life so it comes easy for me .Just think it through before you make a cut,it's not a race .It's easy to take it off,it's quite another thing to put it back on .
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Just sharing one I seen for sale.
Logan Lathe 14" swing All the tools go with it .$2200
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Pretty good deal with all the extras
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Neat thing about a Logan is they use a variable pulley deal like a snowmobile drive allowing infinitely any speed .
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Another one local :o
Sidney 18" lathe $4,500
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What collet sets fit a Craftsman/Atlas 12" x 36"?
Shep
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That Sidney was a fore runner of Monarch and built like a battle ship .That one is big enough to turn a drive shaft .
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It would depend on what type collet nose the Craftsman/Atlas has .Could be either number 2 or number 3 Morse taper or 5c collets .On the MT style they thread onto the drawbar with internal threads ,the 5c has external threads . I'm not certain what #3 MT has but #2 uses 3/8" 24 .
Number 2 MT only goes to about 1/2" ,also used on model M Bridgeport mills .5C goes up to I think 1 1/8 ".
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--and now a story of 5c collets .Big auction,liquidation of one of the local machine shops .I was trying to hear the auctioneer when this blabber mouth rascal got to ratchet jawing and I missed the largest set I ever saw.Every shape that ever made in 5c,must have been 80,round,hex,square,SAE and metric .40 bucks .I was a little miffed to say the least . >:(
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Local to me.
No interest here. Just sharing if a local maybe interested.
$800
19" Leblond lathe.. 3 and 4 jaw chucks. 240v 3 phase. Sell or trade.. can load.