Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on October 07, 2016, 07:48:43 pm
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Picked these 3 craftsman 38cc powersharp chainsaws today. The blue and red start, run and oil bar. The red one had rear and front handle AV.
Yellow one missing rope and handle so no clue there.
Will try and get these into someones hands that like these models. Will sell or trade just PM me.
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The yellow and blue one have oil under the black button on handle. The red one had like a dummy button that is level and no words under it like the other 2. Any info?
Not up on the info on these as I usually just fix or part them out.
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All 3 craftsman and always had auto with manual oiler too. All my poulans in past too. But this Red one is the only one I have seen like this with a dummy button. Maybe newer version.
Few of them have that black plastic on/off switch too.
blue yellow have the manual button and black plastic switch. Red one with AV has the metal on/off and dummy button.
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That is pretty neat to find 3 different colors like that.
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Though all three saws are Sears 38cc powersharps, as you can tell by the previous posts, they now have regular chains and there are other subtle differences besides color for they are apparently different ages?
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Think 2 had like cast iron looking mufflers. Thick metal.
Will get each ones pics when I unload the truck today. I just pulled it in last night.
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Looking to take rear handle saws in trade for these. Saws that a homeowner type would use for trimming or firewood cutting.
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Yellow craftsman was eating at me wondering if runner. Put a recoil rope in, pulley fastener, handle etc from the green parts saw. Piston looked good looking at it through back half of muffler. She lives, runs and oils.
red one wear 3/8lp 7 rim and the blue and yellowing wearing 1/4 9 rims
resizing pics
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all 3 runners. 8)
pics
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I get caught up. I thought I will take the red 2.3 38cc and the newer micro 2.3 cva and compare them in a pine cant.
Red is wearing 3/8 7T rim and I think the 2300cva has a 6T spur. I have a 6T spur for the red one from a green saw But I aint going to switch them just for testing. Even though I know I should to keep it all even. But IMO the older ones are alot stronger in the cuts anyways.
Though I still like the newer micros for ease of parts etc.
I might even sharpen 1 of the 1/4" chains and run it on the yellow and blue ones with 9T 1/4 rims.
poulan s25da s 25av IPL http://www.klippo.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1995_USen/POUI1995_USen__530067624.pdf
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Was looking up info on S25CVA and Acres site dates 74-84
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Was looking over my s25 saw parts bin. I have 2 newer clutch drums with 3/8LP spur 6T
These 3 came with the 3/8 7T and 2x 1/4 9T. Guessing they are the 9 spline. Can the 3/8LP spline still be bought? update: Found them if wanted.
If not I may put the spurs on the other two.
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That is pretty good having all 3 runners now.
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From what I can see on my phone, that red saw doesn't have a dummy button. The dummy on the auto only saws are different, and I don't think any of the red sears branded S25PS/VL saws were auto only.
The manual oiler pushrod is either bent, out of engagement with the plunger of the manual pump (in the oil pump body), or both. The oil pump will be behind the flywheel. Auto only saws have no steel pushrod, and the pump will not have the manual oiler plunger section.
The plastic sliding kill switch will signify an older saw. Same with the cast rather than stamped steel mufflers. They also are likely to be 2.1ci/34cc rather than 2.3/38. Sears used the teal and yellow colors before the red.
The Micro series is a newer design than the XXV series, but both were produced at the same time for many years. They're intended for different markets, although there was much blurring of the lines. Tbe XXV series are my favorite tophandle designs, followed by the Micros. The rest.....meh. i do have a Husky 335XPT California to rebuild someday, but it's low priority.
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From what I can see on my phone, that red saw doesn't have a dummy button. The dummy on the auto only saws are different, and I don't think any of the red sears branded S25PS/VL saws were auto only. The manual oiler pushrod is either bent, out of engagement with the plunger of the manual pump (in the oil pump body), or both. The oil pump will be behind the flywheel. Auto only saws have no steel pushrod, and the pump will not have the manual oiler plunger section.
The plastic sliding kill switch will signify an older saw. Same with the cast rather than stamped steel mufflers. They also ard likely to be 2.1ci/34cc rather than 2.3/38. Sears used the teal and yellow colors before the red.
The Micro series is a newer design than the XXV series, but both were produced at the same time for many years.
Red and Blue ones have 2.3 right on the recoil.
Will you check your red ones and see if they say OIL right under the button? The blue and yellow have OIL, the red one dont.
I got 3 new air filters, just know time right now to get back at them.
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Ah I looked but couldn't see the 2.1/2.3 on the saws. Nust on the red. Phone screen...
Don't think I have ever seen a sliding switch 2.3 before. Just 2.1's.
I will check my red 2.3's when I get home. At work on lunch break outside the building now.
That button looks more like it is sunken (and 'cocked') because something isn't right with the pushrod. I could be wrong though. Again....tiny phone screen....
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Ah I looked but couldn't see the 2.1/2.3 on the saws. Phone...
Don't think I have ever seen a slidi g switch 2.3 before. Just 2.1's.
I will check my red 2.3's when I get home. At work on lunch break outside the building now.
That button looks more like it is sunken (and 'cocked') because something isn't right with the pushrod. I could be wrong though. Avain....phone screen....
Thanks for your help. I know jack chit on these.
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That teal saw is a new one on me. Have never seen a sliding switch 2.3. I didn't say (or at least wasn't trying to say) that the red saw was a 2.1. Looking back at my earlier post, it does show some poor choices of wording. Trying to rapidly peck out a post and send it between signal drops...
The yellow saw most likely is a 2.1 though. Is the exhaust port on the yellow saw bridged? IIRC, the 2.1 cyls are not bridged, while the 2.3's are. Do you have the 358.xxxxx # from the yellow saw? That will get us the Sears IPL for it. Piston, cyl, and ring part #'s from that IPL will tell the tale. Think I only have one 2.1. It's a Craftsman red 2.1A branded 25DA with the same straight handle as your teal saw.
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If ya remove the FW cover/starter you should be able to see enough of the oil pump to tell if it is manual only without having to remove the FW. The FW comes off easy on these too.
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You're welcome my friend. Lunch break over. Hopefully I don't get drafted for a second shift tonight. Supposed to go to the park for a GTG-prep work day Sunday morning...
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Will take a look at all of the stuff you mentioned to check later. Their not a priority saw for me. Just couldnt pass them up on the way to a friends to cut up wood. Figured parts were parts or get them in the right folks hands. But turned out to be 2 out of 3 were runners. Now all 3 run.
See if the AV red one saves my hands enough to where I will keep it or not. Dont recall running a AV version of these yet.
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An S25-CVA is always in my pickup.
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Going to make a top handle saw weight thread in the chainsaw weight board.
Got a few to put now and will dig up the rest later.
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Ran out and did some quick checks during halftime.
Yellow ones cylinder is bridged just like my S25DA cylinder. Sears Explorer II on recoil
Yellow one is 358.352330 serial number is S and 6 numbers
Blue one is 358.350860 serial number S and 4 numbers
Red one is 358.350962 serial number S and 7 numbers
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9bc35c408747a12888256cf300100271?OpenDocument
Hope I didnt confuse the numbers with wrong saws. Gets like that sometimes now. ;)
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yellow one sears IPL # shows this. All I know is cylinder is bridged just like my S25DA cylinder http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/358352330/0247/1503200.html
C P R
530011244 23389 530023352
IPL and your info here says 2.1 http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-super-25da/70/
But again cylinder is bridged on this yellow one. Guess I could try and measure through opening.
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While playing cat and mouse with a field groundhog that has busted me twice.
Checked on red one. No rod going to the black button. Guessing being AV model the front area in front of button is all open to see I guess. Not like the other 3 regulars I have had. So I could take a screwdriver and push the black button up. Just hollow button with no rod. No word OIL under the button like the other 3 with rods.
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Also noticed the older blue yellow had Tilley carbs and newer red had walbro carb.
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Checked my CVA saws (two red and one green plus a few green parts saws) and they didn't have "oil" cast into the handle (despite all having manual oilers). Just got out of the shower after coming home from the work day at the park. Didn't run my S25-CVA (just my 181SE and 288XP).
Haven't cross reff'd the part numbers from that Sears IPL yet. If it's bridged, it should be 2.3ci unless I am mistaken. Yeah the older XXV series saws often have Tillotson HU's instead of Walbro WA/WT carbs. I like that little Tilly. Got a few XXV's with the HU. Most of my saws in this series have the Walbros however. They work fine too...
Did you check the oil pump to see if it had a manual plunger section? Could still be that somebody had the saw apart and omitted the pushrod for whatever reason........or it could be an auto only variant. Sears sold about a zillion different XXV series variants....
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I had recoil cover pulled but didnt pull flywheel. So I stopped there as it isnt important to me right now since the auto oiler is working.
Thanks again and I was reading some post back in 2011 and the blue one has those numbers you were talking about with a guy back then. You were thinking he had a 9 instead of the 8. So Mine is the same 2.3 PS in blue with 8 that he had had too.
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The IPL for the red saw model # you listed shows an oil pump with the manual oil plunger.
Interestingly, it lists both the 34cc and 38cc cylinders (9A and 9B) in the index. Also lists both the 34cc and 38cc pistons (15A and 15B in the index). Weird...
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Just checked the yeller saw IPL. Lists 530011244 for the cylinder. That's the 1.438" cylinder for the 2.1ci saws. Also lists 530023389 as the piston. That's the 1.435" slug for the 2.1ci saws.
Of course, the p/c could have been swapped some time in the last 30+ years or so. Don't really matter. I haven't been able to detect a difference in power between the 2.1 and the 2.3. Maybe with identical chains on the same day in bigger wood with a timer buddy who's very consistent with a stopwatch.....
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(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Poulan%20Chainsaws/IMG_20140508_223607727_zpsovhtvqwo.jpg)
My red S25-CVA's. Black/white decal saw is a 2.3PS/VL like yours. Black/Green label saw with the black AF cover is a "Craftsman Pro 2.3VL" or something similar. Can't recall right now. They're next to my 5.2/30 branded 5200.
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Is there suppose to be a duckbill somewhere on these gas caps? Bottom inside with a star? All 3 straight through which dont make since.
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Think I am going to put a 3/8LP on the 2 roller nose bars that had 1/4. Have 2 3.8lp spur 6 and the red one is rim 3/8lp 7
Any idea the drive link count on these rollernose bars?
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Is there suppose to be a duckbill somewhere on these gas caps? Bottom inside with a star? All 3 straight through which dont make since.
You've got it Kevin. They have a duckbill held in the tube section on the underside of the cap with the star washer. Washer slips over the duckbill and then is pressed in as far as possible. Sometimes, the plastic gets chewed up by the 'points' of the star washer and allows the washer to slip a bit. Gas then leaks around the flange of the duckbill and pees out the hole in the cap.
When replacing the duckbill, it helps to clean ALL the old duckbill goo out of the cap. Also helps to flatten the star washer out after removing it.......as it tends to get deformed.
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Think I am going to put a 3/8LP on the 2 roller nose bars that had 1/4. Have 2 3.8lp spur 6 and the red one is rim 3/8lp 7
Any idea the drive link count on these rollernose bars?
If they're 16" then they should be 56DL. Could be 57DL too. Seen both on these saws. The Windsor Mini-Pro 16" bar on my 2.3PS/VL took 57DL of LP. It's the rim drive like yours (9 spline), so it should be 7 pin.
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Not sure on the bar length. I counted the 3/8lp on hardnose and 1/4 on the 2 rollernose when I took them off but I cant remember. :-[
Really need to get them back together and clear bench 3 off.
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Just checked the yeller saw IPL. Lists 530011244 for the cylinder. That's the 1.438" cylinder for the 2.1ci saws. Also lists 530023389 as the piston. That's the 1.435" slug for the 2.1ci saws.
Of course, the p/c could have been swapped some time in the last 30+ years or so. Don't really matter. I haven't been able to detect a difference in power between the 2.1 and the 2.3. Maybe with identical chains on the same day in bigger wood with a timer buddy who's very consistent with a stopwatch.....
Refresh my memory on the 2.3 bore please. I just measured the yellow one that we are thinking 2.1 by IPL but it has the bridged cylinder like a 2.3.
Through the exhaust port and I use soft solder to mark. 37mm is what I came up with as close as I can get it. Using converstion chart 1.45669" so just guessing this will come back to bridged 2.1ci then?
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Just noticed the red one the bar wasnt a hard tipped bar. It was a sprocket nose with 57DL 3/8LP chain with 501 on the drive links.
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The 2.3ci saws have bore that's a hair over 38mm. Around 1.5". Don't have the exact number in front of me right now.
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The 2.3ci saws have bore that's a hair over 38mm. Around 1.5". Don't have the exact number in front of me right now.
I found it in another thread here. Thanks. The one with pics of the rings etc.
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Look at the back of the yellow one and blue one on my 2 posted first. Why the difference in the rear handles? Just noticed that.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14595714_10210015549441827_6683968589284699074_n.jpg?oh=f84cdd9b71abffca6f53b3b1e26108d5&oe=5874C15C)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14581395_10210015556001991_5283917316556583105_n.jpg?oh=f401d4282027520fe04d49997784814f&oe=58A029E6)
Also just looked at this 2.1 that had the rear handle like the blue one.
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Just seen this thread. "Oil" isn't on the handle behind the button of my blue S25 CVA either. The button does stick up proud and oils when it's depressed.
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None of the CVA handles seem to have "Oil" cast in behind the button. It's on the rigid handles though.
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Gary has a good pic of the green cva with word OIL missing.
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Looking at that pic. Notice the red or orange under the green on the worn rear handle part.
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That orange could be primer.
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They been known to paint over parts. I was thinking the red craftsman or this orange one.
I have this in route to me. Wizard 316 AV I dont even know why I keep getting them. I just set them on the shelf after checking over.
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Very cool.
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Wizard. That is pretty cool.
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Very cool.
The box is only going to get heavier at this rate. ;)
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Wizard. That is pretty cool.
I dont recall seeing a CVA Wizard in the past. So I thought I better grab it.
I was told.
Has spark and compression.
Fuel lines are rock hard. 2-stroke oil in fuel tank.... all the gas had evaporated.
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Very cool.
The box is only going to get heavier at this rate. ;)
Yep. That's because you keep finding cool stuff.
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Orange one arrived today 8). Need to make a space on the shelf to put them and get them off the bench. :P
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Found 2 green XXV AV models = S25CVA ? :-\
Pretty poor looking non runners. Dont think there is any reason to pick these up unless someone wants me to check deeper.
Still looking for the silver unicorn in AV version. Ridgid top handle AV I havent seen one since the pics and video seen in 2010.
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Those two green saws are indeed S25-CVA's. Good for parts if cheap.
The Rigid version of the S25-CVA would be great to find. You're the man to find it though. Some guys have the gift.8)
You'd be amazed how many other variants are out there. The Poulan private label lists show dozens of rebadged XXV series saws (including some real oddballs sold in Europe and other places outside the US).
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Let me know if you pick them up for parts please.
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Let me know if you pick them up for parts please.
What parts? I have a green parts saw now but not a CVA
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Let me know if you pick them up for parts please.
What parts? I have a green parts saw now but not a CVA
Need the little rubber piece for the throttle handle. Seems to be a difficult part to find.
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The upper AV mount? Yeah they're prone to failure. Usually a few NOS ones on eBay for silly prices.
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The upper AV mount? Yeah they're prone to failure. Usually a few NOS ones on eBay for silly prices.
Negative. It's the grip piece that sits behind the throttle trigger.
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Let me know if you pick them up for parts please.
What parts? I have a green parts saw now but not a CVA
Need the little rubber piece for the throttle handle. Seems to be a difficult part to find.
Black piece under the grip right? Is it only on the CVA or both?
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Let me know if you pick them up for parts please.
What parts? I have a green parts saw now but not a CVA
Need the little rubber piece for the throttle handle. Seems to be a difficult part to find.
Black piece under the grip right? Is it only on the CVA or both?
Yes, that piece. Both I believe.
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Now I wonder if the black piece is the same on all of them.
My red CVA, non av ones yellow low handle and blue high handle all have it.
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Now I wonder if the black piece is the same on all of them.
My red CVA, non av ones yellow low handle and blue high handle all have it.
Only one way to find out. Remove the pieces and try them on the other models.
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Not in freezing temps I wont be. Hate breaking stuff.
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There's two different rubber grip inserts. One was used on the curved non-AV handles. The other one was used on the straight non-AV handle, as well as on the CVA saws. The differences between the two parts are the overall length as well as the angles that the ends are cut to.
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(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6125.0;attach=19179;image)
Far left is the curved handle type that takes one style of insert.
Far right is the straight handle non-AV type. Middle is the CVA. Both of these types use the same grip insert.
I figured this out years ago.............both by comparing part #'s in the IPL's and by direct comparisons.
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The 2 25CVA were priced to me = Both start with gas in carb. For parts or repair 50.00 plus shipping.
Still debating it :-\. Need to clarify still that was 50 for both or not. :-[
The 2 I showed earlier.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6125.0;attach=19779;image)
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There's two different rubber grip inserts. One was used on the curved non-AV handles. The other one was used on the straight non-AV handle, as well as on the CVA saws. The differences between the two parts are the overall length as well as the angles that the ends are cut to.
I just looked at all 3. I see what you are talking about. Thank You for info.
Now the new question is. On the CVA ones the black piece is straight up down cut. The straight non-av one has bevels at both ends. Will it still work on the CVA for AP uses?
See where the other curved one is longer and even more beveled on the ends to fit.
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It should. IIRC, the straight cut CVA part was the substitute standard for the straight non AV applications. Might have to trim the beveled edges of that one for his CVA.
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Seen this one posted on my Chainsaw Repair group. Older? Since it has a red plastic on/off switch and just Poulan Deluxe on it? Havent seen one quite like it.
Hmmmm just caught it had a red throttle trigger too.
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No Auto Oiler. I have not seen one without the auto oiler.
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No Auto Oiler. I have not seen one without the auto oiler.
Thats what I was thinking too.
Was going to send him carb cover but he bought one before I seen it. Guess he will be getting the black plastic piece he is missing inside the handle. He didnt know it was missing till I pointed it out.
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I went to pull the black rubber piece for the above saw, but the handle was different between the 2.
I took pics to show the difference in them and the black rubber pieces. The 1 the above saw needs the longer and thicker rubber piece.
The other shorter thinner style just falls out.
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4 pics showing the differences
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4 pics showing the differences
well i just learned something.... I thought all those inserts were the same LOL... are the cva different as well? no biggie i will peek next time im in the shed.....
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I back read on the handle inserts .... rereading things never hurts LOl.....
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Had a nice day yesterday chasing down a couple of parts saws. Wife went along for a 50F sunny Jan day. Pretty dang unusual here IMO. Stopped at at a decent restaurant and bought some stuff at cheese barn. Oh I do love the smoked cheeses.
54cc poulan and a early poulan 25. Not a S25. Had the red on/off. Just says poulan on recoil badge. Guy said it runs but he dropped it and broke the mag tank. Came with green case too. Will get pics in a bit.
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This is the early poulan 25 manual oiling only from what I understand and had a stacked muffler.
I'm not going to fix or keep it myself. I figured a collector might want it being early one with stacked muffler manual oiling only and green case it came in.
I figure I will squirt some mix down carb to check that it indeed does start
stack muffler and busted tank side
Then all I was after was the 3450 parts saw. Was hoping a T3 60cc but no luck