Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: ChipsAhoy on June 13, 2017, 10:07:33 pm
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I posted this question on the other site this morning and have not gotten an answer yet, so I thought I'd give you guys a shot.
When I replaced the oil seals I used 9639 033 1585 that says to use if engine is opened up. It goes on to say "slip the oil seal, closed side facing the engine over the crankshaft stub". OK, that's pretty clear EXCEPT that further in the manual it says " push new oil seals, open side facing crankshaft, onto the crankshaft stubs" WTF?????
Same seal part#
What 's going on here ? I'm totally confused now as to which installation instruction is correct. We debated yesterday as to which direction to install them, but always came back to the original statement about closed side facing engine even though it went against logic. It was just by chance today I found the conflicting information.
Which is correct????
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Never mind, I just viewed a picture of a 211 engine. Closed side out. Why would Stihl put conflicting information in the repair manual??
Oh well, live & learn.
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Never mind, I just viewed a picture of a 211 engine. Closed side out. Why would Stihl put conflicting information in the repair manual??
Oh well, live & learn.
All the seals on crankshafts for chain saws no matter who makes them always has the lip of the seal where the spring is facing toward the engine.
That would make the closed side facing out.
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That's what I thought but because of the conflicting information above (which I didn't see until that evening), I went with the first statement even though it just seemed wrong. I've never totally tore down a saw let alone a Stihl.
I've asked a lot of dumb simple questions because of my inexperience that the rebuild experts are probably shaking their heads over and thinking "what a bozo"! :-\
But for me it's been a learning experience that will carry over to other brands IF I ever decide to go through this again.
Now it's back to pulling the engine, split the case, reverse the seals and give it another go. >:(
Thanks and have a good day.
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That's what I thought but because of the conflicting information above (which I didn't see until that evening), I went with the first statement even though it just seemed wrong. I've never totally tore down a saw let alone a Stihl.
I've asked a lot of dumb simple questions because of my inexperience that the rebuild experts are probably shaking their heads over and thinking "what a bozo"! :-\
But for me it's been a learning experience that will carry over to other brands IF I ever decide to go through this again.
Now it's back to pulling the engine, split the case, reverse the seals and give it another go. >:(
Thanks and have a good day.
It is the way seals are designed to work and not the saw.
We all started where you are right now so ask away.
Remember the crankcase has to hold pressure and vacuum and those seals are designed to do that.
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It's fixed. It was soooo much easier the second time around. :)
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It's fixed. It was soooo much easier the second time around. :)
Congrats.
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Got it back together last week and finally had a chance to put it to wood.
Started on 5-6th pull, reset the idle and carb jets and just pizz revved it a little not over doing the rpm. Played around running it for about 1/2 hour.
Put the bar on today and went a cutting. Nothing big and nothing long term under load. Sweet saw, runs strong. I'd like to see the oilier put out more, but it's getting it done.
Went through about 3/4 tank of gas, let it cool down pulled the muffler to take a look. One faint line but otherwise piston looks good. I had nightmares about not getting all the transfer out and trashing the new piston & rings. Hopefully I've avoided that.
It seems to be leaking oil around the grommet in the tank. I'll have to take it to the dealer and see if they'll still honor the recall/fix that Stihl put out.
Have a great day