Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Dh1984 on January 08, 2012, 10:01:33 pm
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i have a chance to buy a husqvarna 2100cd chainsaw. and i wasn just wondering if i ever decide to sell it. what could i get out of it if i ever did decide to sell it. i know it's about a 6 cube (99cc) saw and it would be great for my tree service i have.
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I just paid $500 for a pretty much brandnew 2100cd , it has less than a tank of gas put threw it then was put on a wall to look at for all these years so hope this gives you a idea
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oh ok well he wants 125.00 for it and hw think it is locked up but it turns a little.so i don't think it is locked up.but i'll get back with him and see if he still has it. and then see what i can do about cleaning it up.
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if its locked up you better check it over before saying yes , it could be the flywheel being held or if something let go in the motor and is up on top of the piston jamming against the top of the jug
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yeah thats what i'm going to do i'm going to bring it to the house and check it over real good. he already told me i could do that if i needed to. so i think i'll go and pick it up and then get in to it and check it really good.
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yes do that , just donot pull her over hard as you might hurt something else , it could just be a loose screw or something locking her up, well lets hope so
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$125 is a good deal any way you cut it. It would be great if the saw can be repaired but there is at least $125 worth of parts for resale.
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Beautiful old saws, the 2100 was ahead of its time when they 1st came out in the mid 1970s. Just think of an extra heavy duty 162. I met my wifes uncle while we were down in Mexico last month, he was a timber faller on the Queen Charlotte Islands back in the late 1970s early '80s. He said the whole camp ran 2100s exclusivly. He packed his around with a 42" b/c. He said at the time the Husky was the only good saw for pro use on those big cedars and fir.
I remember when logging about that time sitting after work in our Manitoba camp looking at the I.W.A. union books we got from head office in B.C. There would be always great pictures of those fallers on the coast running those big 2100s, I would wonder what it be like to trade in my 62 cc saw for one of those big guys and cut that big timber.................
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I've got one of those old arm breakers myself .Came from some island off the coast of Washington State and had some problems .
The coil was shot and about half bolts were stripped out plus the bushing was gone on the starter hub .If that bushing is out you can't pull that high compression SOB over using both hands .They're a chore even if the bushing is good .
I made a brass bushing to replace the original nylon which is shown in the picture .
Now discounting the fact they are probabley the hardest saw to get started ever built once they are running they will eat a stock 066/Ms 660 alive as far as power . Before the advent of the 3120 Husqvarna these old things were what they used for for hot saws .
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Fastest 2100 I ever seen was this MVP piped one.
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Looks like it should be able to get enough air . ;D
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I know I'm ressurecting an old thread, but I'm cruising through old topics & this one brought back memories.
I had a 2100 in the early or mid eighties. That thing would CUT!!!
BUT, it had horible vibration issues. I was using it to cut up log truck loads of firewood & only stopped for fuel. At the end of a tank of gas I would literaly have to pry the fingers on my handlebar hand straight :'(
We parted ways for something less efficient but more comfortable(don't remember what now...).
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i think like Roanoker494....it's a good one for sure!........ i sold a lot of'em,now i'm on the hunt for one :'(
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I know I'm ressurecting an old thread, but I'm cruising through old topics & this one brought back memories.
I had a 2100 in the early or mid eighties. That thing would CUT!!!
BUT, it had horible vibration issues. I was using it to cut up log truck loads of firewood & only stopped for fuel. At the end of a tank of gas I would literaly have to pry the fingers on my handlebar hand straight :'(
We parted ways for something less efficient but more comfortable(don't remember what now...).
That's funny. Must be a perspective thing, because the 1100CD I ran a while ago was the smoothest 6ci saw I've ever ran by far. Of course I'm used to the big old North American monsters....:D
Those big Husqvarnas could sure use a comp release. Not just to make live easier on us......but to preserve the starter parts as well.
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That arm breaker I have has plenty of power it's just such a fuss to get started .The rascal is the easiest saw I've ever seen to flood then the fun begins because you'll about pull your arm out of the socket before it will putt .
It's probabley just a learning curve .The Stihls on a cold start I just choke and pull away until the first hiccup ,let off the choke and the next pull they fire .
That danged big Huskey it's about two pulls with the choke and if you do a few more that sunny beach is flooded .
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Maybe it is perspective, but I've run big Stihls, & a much later Husky 3120 & never had the same issue.
The saw was definetly pre AV!
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:D I remember those 2100 arm busters as well. No shortage of power but oh my what a bear to start. I sold one with a 42" bar to a little Mexican who was logging pine in Guadalajara. He wanted a 48" but we couldn't get one in time. He had to be felling them two at a time. Never did see him try to pull it over.
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They should have built the things with a decomp .A D handle helps though .
These old rascals were the hot ticket at one time for building hot saws .
I've never had the occasion to get inside one to look at the porting scheme but assume it's a double tunnel transfer .Fact other than a couple little 335 trim saws and one 181 I've never been inside any Husqvarnas .
I will have to say again that old duffer will eat up the wood once you get the thing started .It can be such a cantankerious SOB at times though which is why it spends most of it's time on the shelf .On the other hand you can't wear them out if they don't run too often .
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My 2100 won't oil. I took the oiler off and blew some compressed air in the oil tank hole to get the oiler primed but no dice. Silly question but do the oilers go bad or am I missing something. Is there a oil vent? The manual oiler works fine. This saw is one strong M F'r. I can't wait to get her in some big wood.
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Have you checked the two oil lines behind the muffler?
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I got a bad oiler on the 415-505 I pulled and had them on the rebuildable 084 oiler too go bad. So I would say yes. Oilers go bad.
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Have you checked the two oil lines behind the muffler?
yes. They seem to be ok
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I got a bad oiler on the 415-505 I pulled and had them on the rebuildable 084 oiler too go bad. So I would say yes. Oilers go bad.
OK Kevin. Of all the saws I have worked on, I have never had a oiler go bad. Just other issues like dirt or rotted lines.
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I've seen the ramps worn down on the oscillating rod types to where the chainsaw didn't pump much oil. The opposite side (inside) of the adjuster wears down.
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the adjustment on these oilers is odd. You have to tear the oiler out and swap two screws around for adjustment. One screw is longer than the other, one screw let's more oil in than the other. So its wide open for the 60"bars or half open for the shorter bars. But as of right now I guess I have to buy a oiler.
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Do you have a known good one to swap in for a test? Thats how I knew mine were bad in past for sure.
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No I don't. I'll just buy one I guess