Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: Cut4fun on March 01, 2011, 08:09:16 pm
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This 084 was ported by Brent Combs also and was even faster with 10T and 11T in the small wood. here it is running a 9T and 3/8 063 machine ground hand touched up good chain at a gtg.
This saw was known at the gtg's as The beast and now runs a 50" bar every week rip cutting hardwoods in the mid-west. Report from new owner was very very good. True work saws. :)
UPDATED = VIDEO of GTG was someone else and removed I guess. Here is same saw with 11T
http://youtu.be/5BcSzbGUaY0
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Oh that be Al Smith in the back ground. 8)
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That one I cut a flat 4 even over the blocks .Fastest I've ever done .With a stocker 084 I had brought with me, a flat 6 .
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That saw looks good. Makes me want one of the 100+ to play with.
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That saw looks good. Makes me want one of the 100+ to play with.
I sold 8 of them. Where were you. ;D
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I wasn't interested in them at the time. Now I want one to play with. I hadn't run a piped one then.
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Was the piped one a pumped gas DN 084 with stock cylinder head?
Maybe this one? This guy owned and I owned and sold to the east coast and know of 3 owners on the east coast of it now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDpqWxQm2qQ
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/CopyofDN084005.jpg)
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I think that is it.
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I sold it with a roller nose bar I had and a stihl 460 rescue handle for D-ring.
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i have known two of the owners of that saw. its been to my gtg with both owners.lol
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My Stihl 084AV dies at idle, and I was wondering if anyone had an idea. It starts fine, runs out fine, actually seems a bit rich at top rpm while cutting, but can't adjust the high speed needle closed more than the "0" turns reccomended. Once it drops down to idle, it will idle a few seconds, then leans out and dies. If I catch it while it is leaning out, I can get it revved up again, and keep it going, but as soon as I let it drop down to idle, I've got about 4 seconds till it dies. The low speed jet does not seem to help any, as I've opened it way up, and it still does the same thing. I've pulled the carb, and **** it open, Tillotson HT I think, and it looked clean, nothing noticable. Any suggestions would be appreciated, and if you have a good source for parts, I'd appreciate that.
Mike
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Probabley the butterfly is closed all the way .You have an idle adjustment screw which sets the amount open of the butterfly at idle .The jets control the fuel and the butterfly adjusts the air .
The butterfly has to be open just a tiny bit else it can't get fuel to the engine .
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Thanks for the reply, I'll try that and let you know
Mike
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Do as Al says to set idle.
I would also I like to know where you have your L set and H set at? 1 turn give or take each out, 1.5 1.25 2 turns etc See what I am asking. ;)
I have a 084 IPL, no pdf service manual that I can remember out there. I had a hard copy and sent it to another member here if we needed help.
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On the 084 parts. Just post in wanted or this thread what you are needing. I used to have tons of 084 stuff put sold all the parts when I sold the 4 084's.
cut4fun and chainsawrepair is same person PM if you like also. I can pretty much find something if it is out there for sale. ;)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/200carb.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/HT084carbs001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/20101054.jpg)
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Some of the 084 parts I got rid of and know where there are in about 3 directions.
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I tried opening up the throttle, but even at its stop, it still dies. I have the high set at "0" open, and the low at about 1.5 turn open. The carb cover says 1.25 open for low, and 0 open for high, althogh I have never come across a 0 recommended opening before. any ideas?
thanks
Mike
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0 on H dont makes no sense ???. What HT carb do you have? HT-1 2 3 5 7 type numbers
Have you rebuilt the carb? recently? Started problem after that?
WAG whats the tank vent looking like? Blocked up, missing brass screws, just fishing for stuff.
WAG I cant remember which side it was but the 084 was bad about wallowing out a case half around the crank bearing creating air leak. Is your crank bearings and everything tight with no up down movement when prying up on flywheel or clutch side end?
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I agree about the 0 turns out, but that is what it is marked on the side of the plastic filter cover. I bought this saw a couple of years ago, and it was at 0 turns out when I bought it, and ran ok. I will check the crank bearing, hope thats not it, but I'll check. it is a -2 carb. I haven't checked the tank vent, not sure where it is to be honest.
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I've seen one stihl with 0 on a cover before and it had carb stops on it. Does this 084 have rev limiters on the carb screws? Plastic tabs? I've never had these on any of my 084's.
If so you cant get full travel of carb needle adjustments. You need to trim tabs or remove them and turn screws to a lightly seat position and do carb settings right way without tabs on.
Like I said never seen them on a HT carb.
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Tillotson HT IPL below with parts list and parts breakdown
http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HTPartsList.pdf
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The service manual says; adjustable carb L=1 turn, H=1 turn. Fixed jet carb L=1.25 turns, H= 0 turns. So if you have an adjustable H carb. it needs to be 1 turn out.
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I think there appears to be a slight communication gap here .No saw I know of would idle with the low speed jet set at zero or tight against the seat .Now you can get them to run with the high speed completely blocked but they don't run real good .
Fact being on that one of my 200T's is doing exactly that but that's another story .
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It is a HT2, and the needles are not limited, you can screw them all the way in, and all the way out. I will try to open the high out 1 turn, but I'm guessing that if the saw is marked with a stamp saying to have the high at 0 turns out, it may be a fixed jet carb. not sure how I would tell the difference though. I have my doubts that adjusting the high speed needle would do much good, since it is only having a problem at idle. Is there any small idle passages that I may be overlooking, that could be clogged. I went thru the carb pretty well just now, and other than removing the welch plug (I dont have a spare), it looks clean.
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Have you removed the H and L needles and sprayed carb cleaner through to see it coming out in the carb with covers off? To know the flow is making it through.
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yes I have, but I cant tell if its coming out of one or more than one passage in the carb, and I believe it has to be more than one passage, an inlet to the needle, and an outlet to the air stream.
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It's nearly impossible to trouble shoot over the internet so the best most of us can do is give what advice we might think to be the problem .
In very occasions in spite of perhaps rebuilding the carb with new internal parts they still won't preform correctly .In some of those rare occasion some of the internal passage ways have somehow became resticted with a tiny bit of some foreign material .
Some times just a little shot of compressed air will clean them out but on rare occasions they need "rodded " in essence using a fine wire or something shoved through the passages to clear the obstruction .
I use a set of torch cleaning wires which cost less than 10 dollars for the long ones .Fact I had to do exactly that proceedure on a Briggs and Straton carb about a week ago after I had the damned thing off the mower for the third time .I was getting a tad bit annoyed with that thing to say the least .The cure worked .
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Do you have a way to put a known good HT carb on in place of yours? 30min swap to test.
Have you put in a new complete HT carb kit and rebuilt yours?
Get one of those harbor freight heated ultrasonic cleaners and you would be amazed at the crap that still comes out of a carb even after you rebuild it. To me this is a last resort option even after failed rebuild.
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thanks guys, I will try to "rod' the passages, I do have a torch tip cleaner, several probably, with a lot of bent wires. I am waiting for a new welch plug, so I can pull the plug from the carb, and I will try your suggestions. I will report back when I get the welch plug off, cleaned, and back together.
If that doesn't work, anyone got a HT for sale for not too much?
mike
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I think I traded or sold all my HT carbs. I will check.
Good used rebuildable HT goes for $40 $50, already rebuilt with new kits were bring $60 $75 watch out though some were rev limited with gov built into them. Some 3 and 5 models I think.
I might have some left over HT carb kit pieces. I will check and if I do I will stick a welch plug in a envelope and mail if you like.
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I didnt find any of my old kits. Must have gave then away with some 084 stuff somewhere along the way.
I get my carb kits and filters from Mowers4u in NY. Their website http://www.mowers4u.com/
Ebay store for their kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/TILLOTSON-CARBURETOR-REPAIR-KIT-STIHL-084-SAW-RK-1-HT-/270380464279?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ef3ee7897
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thanks I'll try them. and I think 60 to 75 for a good carb is reasonable, by the way
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Just a quick thought the carb has 3 screws? One for H, one for L, and the idle. It seems as if it's not adjustable you're adjusting the idle in to 0 turns when it should be out some.
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I've played with the two needles,the low doesn't do anything to help, and if I openthe high more than 0 turns, it runs way too rich at high speed. We had 16" of wet heavy snow on saturday, and I spend all day sunday cutting up some 30" oaks that fell on my property. The saw runs ok at speed, but you have to go from cut to cut, or it will stall. That's a little tough on the arms and back, as I ran 3 tanks of fuel thru it. Right now, I'll wait for my carb kit, and let you know what if anything it does to help.
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I just wanted to make sure it was an adjustable carb. I would try to run the idle screw in a little more.
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Run the idle screw all the way in, then hold the trigger where it idles nice then look at the gap between the linkage and the idle stop/screw. I've had to "shim" some idle screws to allow enough adjustment to idle well...
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You guys jogged my memory loose with your idle screw talk. I do remember one of the 084 carbs with electrical tape or something like that on the idle screw making it thicker to make the idle work right.
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I'll try to shim the idle adjustment screw, maybe that's the problem. I'm still without power fromthe snow storm, so it'll be a couple of days more. While I'm waiting, what's the most obvious cause of bar oil leaking out from beneath the bar nuts area, when the saw is sitting after running, quite a lot, maybe a slick the size of a dinner plate? For a saw that's been a pain in the butt lately, it still cuts like crazy. went from that to my Husky 272, and the 272 felt like a toy
Mike
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I tried to shim the idle screw, but it didn't work. It raised the idle, but unless you keep it about 1/3 throttle or greater, it will run for 4 or 5 seconds, start to lean out and die.
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Well the tillotson kit came yesterday, and I installed it on the carb. Unfortunately no change, still runs for a few seconds at low speed then dies. runs good at high speed. I removed the vent cap, thinking that might be a problem, no change. I added the paper gasket that came with the carb kit between the carb and carb mounting surface, figuring maybe I was getting a leak here, but no change. I guess my next try will be changing the pulse line, possibly a leak here? I'm running out of ideas, anybody got any? I ordered another oil pick up tube, as that was leaking also, but as far as the idle goes, I've got nothing!
thanks
Mike
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You could possibley have a leak in the impulse line but usually if so it won't run long in high speed .On the idle circuit just in what the fuel chamber holds on a saw the size of an 038 it will idle 10 minutes with a dry tank .You almost think it is going to run forever .
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Yea, I tend to agree with that. I replaced the impulse line with a piece of clear tygon, and it still is the same. I'm starting to think it may not be the carb, as I was running in on the ground with the air filter off, and kept opening up the low speed needle, as I kept goosing the throttle to keep it going. I could get the low speed condition so rich that gas droplets were spraying out the carb intake, which means to me, the low speed circuits are functioning. I'm thinking about pulling the cylinder off and seeing what I see. what compression should this saw have cold? anyone know?
thanks
Mike
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My good running stock one with a lot of time on it was holding 145psi last time I checked it before selling. Keep pulling till the needle doesn't move up anymore on gauge to check.
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Low comp won't make it die on the vine .I wouldn't worry too much about it unless you can pull it over easily without the decomp .Even then keep in mind that's a static reading which could jump quite a bit once the engine is running
That thing just isn't getting fuel through the low speed jet for some reason .
As far as the carb ,I've never worked on that model so I know little of nothing about its' praticuler whims and where fors .I've had carbs run with just the low speed but never had one the wouldn't suck gas though the low speed .--Unless that thing has a bolted butterfly with a slot that came loose .If so on some carbs if that slot does not align with the fixed jet /nozzle they won't idle .
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I'll look at that and see if the holes in the carb bore are plugged off by the throttle plate, although I have already put two layers of tape on the idle screw to increase the idle, and stuck a small screwdriver under the throttle to increase the idle, and in all cases, she dies just the same
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service manual says. Engine stalls at idle speed, but operates normally at full throttle; oil seals leaking or manifold leaking. I hate to say it but it sounds like you have an air leak. If the new carb is giving you the same symptoms..... That 365 poulan i had was doing the same thing. would run wide open but wouldn't idle. It ended up needing bearings and seals.
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that sort of makes sense. I will do a pressure test and see where its leaking, unfortunately I have to make up an exhaust and intake cover. will let you know what I find
Mike
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This statement by you . . . .
"I'm starting to think it may not be the carb, as I was running in on the ground with the air filter off, and kept opening up the low speed needle, as I kept goosing the throttle to keep it going. I could get the low speed condition so rich that gas droplets were spraying out the carb intake, which means to me, the low speed circuits are functioning."
Makes me think you have seal or other crankcase pressure integrity problems if the intake side of your piston is not trashed?
I've had carbs with the intake circuit plugged and I could never get any droplets spitting out the carb from the low side.
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Usually they will idle with a seal out but they often won't with a tear in the boot .
What's with that tape on the low speed screw ? If that thing is sucking air through a wibbley woobley screw I doubt it would work too well .
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The tape on the throttle screw was just an idea by one of the forum to increase the dia of the throttle screw to hold the butterfly open more, it didn't help. I ran a pressure test on the engine. sealed up the carb side with a piece of inner tube between the carb and manifold, sealed up the exhaust side with a piece of inner tube between the exhaust and cylinder. clamped the impulse line, and installed my leak down tester in the spark plug hole. Pressurized to 10 psi, and it held rock solid. I pulled the flywheel (what a pain it the butt, I guess its never been off), and pulled the cluch and bar oil drive. I sprayed both seals down with soapy water. No leaks, and as I said, it held 10 psi rock solid. I also hooked up my vacuum pump, and pulled a vacuum, and it held that also. There is no play in either the clutch side bearing or the flywheel side bearing. Didn't put a dial indicator on it, but as I said, absolutely no play......So I'm guessing its not a crankcase or seal leak. Not sure where the manifold leak would show up, but I'm thinking its not it. Yikes.... I'm not sure where else to look. Anybody?
thanks
Mike
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Did you ever find a known good carb to try on it? 084 088 880 will work.
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no, unfortunately, I dont have one, or have a friend with one, anyone got one for sale?
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I sent you info on who bought my last Ht-1 I had rebuilt and tested and know it was just a extra carb at the time for him. Also check with bloodontheice he works in a stihl dealership in NY.
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Finally got a replacement carb from someone on ebay (2 weeks + shipping from Canada), and lo and behold, it works! haven't cut with it, as its evening and dark outside, but is sounds good, and finally idles properly. Thanks for all of your help on this forum, you guys are great, Now my 272 can rest a little.
Mike
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Thanks for the update! 8) Did you get a adjustable H & L carb?
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Finally got a replacement carb from someone on ebay (2 weeks + shipping from Canada), and lo and behold, it works! haven't cut with it, as its evening and dark outside, but is sounds good, and finally idles properly. Thanks for all of your help on this forum, you guys are great, Now my 272 can rest a little.
Mike
Was it the HT7 I sent you info on up in Can?
I had ask in the carb thread = I hope you are the one that bought the HT7 for $50 in the link I sent you.
Yes Torx IF it is the carb I sent info on it was fully adjustable.
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yea, it is, in fact it was pointed out to me by one of the forum members on ebay. Installed it, spent about 10 minutes dialing it in, and cut with it for an hour today, ended up about 1-1/8 out on high needle, and 1 turn out on low. Idles smoothly, runs good again. Glad to have it back together, instead of in a couple of boxes, as I'm sure you can all relate.
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Glad to hear it's running good now. Carb problems can be really irritating.
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Will a 088 crank work in a 084?
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I remember a thread on this on the original RS's back in the day. Off memory they dont so I searched.
Jacob J says. The cranks from the 088/880 and the 084 are not interchangeable. There's considerable differences in the stub shaft diameters and flywheel side tapers. It's not even feasible for a good machinist.
The 088/880 crank is not compatible with the 084 case halves. It's wider than the 084 crank and uses a different sized seal
on the flywheel side.
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Thanks, looks like the 084 rebuild is on hold. Seems the 084 cranks are NLA. I can get a new crank for a 075 but not a 084, seems weird.
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Just as general conversaion I do believe the 084 has gained somewhat of an "iconic " position on the area of large saws .Also I'd well imagine the crankshafts which could be salvaged might have been canabalized to get the connecting rods they use in place of a 3120 for stroker hot saws ,It's said the 084 is a much stronger rod .
If money is not the object and you have a crank that needs repair perhaps Falicon in Florida could repair but it will be pricey .Fred "stihl boy " had a one or two but I have no idea if they are any good ,if he still has them or where in the world Fred wandered off to .
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Fred aka stihlboy username is here. Last time he called he was working all the time and no time for net stuff. You might try PM and email through his username.
I know I sold him a bunch of my hard to find 084 stuff when I got out of them. HT-1 carbs etc. Basically 2 boxes full.
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Just as a general rule if you are looking for a praticular item and if you have patience and perserverance it will often appear on a popular on line auction site given enough time . ;)Keep in mind also that parts for an 084 are going to be costly .
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Keep in mind also that parts for an 084 are going to be costly .
So is a new 880.
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Got that complete stock 084 runner on the shelf. Could go PHO plus ship for you?
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Got that complete stock 084 runner on the shelf. Could go PHO plus ship for you?
I want to sell the 357 before I do anything.
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Keep in mind also that parts for an 084 are going to be costly .
So is a new 880.
What I'm trying to say unless you need that big honken saw if you have some patience the parts will come along in due time .FWIW I found two cranks since this thread was first mentioned and gave a hint where they are .
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No hurry, just want a Stihl racesaw. Trying to decide the direction to go.
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;) Well an 84 would be good one .I'm not sure how it would do witha full blown 3120 Husky but I've seen some fast big Stihls . Even had my hot little hands on a few . ;D
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No hurry, just want a Stihl racesaw. Trying to decide the direction to go.
PM'd you regarding a crank mate!
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Since this subject has came up there have been several on flea bay .They are in the 150 dollar range .Like I said though parts for that big saw are not cheap .
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No hurry, just want a Stihl racesaw. Trying to decide the direction to go.
PM'd you regarding a crank mate!
Not needed anymore, gave my parts away.
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When I was selling the stihl 084 the other day. The buyer ask the year of the saw :-\. All I could remember was they were made from about 1986 to ?? I guessed to early 1990's when GUESSING AGAIN the 088 came out :-[.
Anyone know the build dates of the 084?
When did the stihl 088 start being sold too?
Thanks.
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084 intro >1986
088 intro >1999 according to acres
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So was the 084 phased out before 1999 or end date around 1999?
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March of '86, until August of '96
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Nice. I wasnt far off then.
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The dates a chainsaw was made was not too much of an indication as to when they were finally sold or put into service. Due to their cost, and the need for such a big chainsaw, many 084's sat around the dealers for years before they finally went out the door? Take notice that it was 3 yrs - 4mos between the time they stopped making the 084 and initial production of the 088 but it may have been another 6 or 8 mos before the 088's started showing up on shelves at the dealers for they were made in Germany?
My Dolmar 6000 (now a 6800) is a 1997 model according to the serial number but I know that it may have not arrived at the dealer until the next year? Then it could have sat at that dealer on the shelf for a couple years? Then the guy traded it in on a unused red top Dolmar 6400 in 2010. That 6400 had sat on the shelf for several years for it had been 5 years since Dolmar even made a red top 6400?
I bought a new Dolmar 6421 March 2011. The dealer ordered it from the distributor just for me and I took it out of the sealed box. It had been made 7 months before. Farther more, it had been run at the factory. I never ran it before converting to a 7900 and it started normally like I had just used it the day before.
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picked this barn find 084 up along with 2 066's
fresh gas and a couple pulls the 084 fired up but smoking really bad. thinking its the case seal for the oil reservoir.
anyone got a top shroud, air filter cover, and ignition?
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also this'll be my first complete tear down on a 084 so any tips or secrets would be appreciated.
I have to split the cases
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Curious about the chip flap, was that a Washington Hot Saws signature?
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Chip flaps came on 084's. Some of them had them some didnt. I had 4 of them and 2 had them.
Digging up my old pics.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/084a.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/084S/084a.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/CopyofDN084013.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/084S/CopyofDN084013.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/Copyof166extras039.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/Copyof166extras039.jpg.html)
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Bunch of 084 parts on ebay at the moment. Man I sold my parts way to cheap. Stuff I was giving away is $24 there. :o
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Curious about the chip flap, was that a Washington Hot Saws signature?
The chip flap came on the early 084 sprocket cover. They did away with it later because over time the rubber would dry rot. They got the idea supposedly when field testing with Canadian fallers up on the islands.
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I think the one I have in the shed has a flap.Dean didn't invent the flap several models had them .
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We need some barns like that in Georgia! All I find is $150 plastic fantastic with the cord ripped out, or rotted Homelite 150s with no chain.
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got it running. it didn't need ignition or seals.
fixed the ignition and pulled and cleaned the culinder and piston and it runs great.
all I need now is a top cover, the little metal that goes between the muffler and case and a k&n airfilter.
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Just teasing stihls066. I let these NOS go already.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/CopyofShop105.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/CopyofShop105.jpg.html)
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Here is how I did my dual port cover for the 084. Didnt like cutting up the very pricey back halves of the muffler.
Figured they got it right with the DP on the 066 and 046, so I went with that idea.
Stihl 084 DP Caveman muffler mod.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/CopyofCavemanmufflermods001.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/CopyofCavemanmufflermods001.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/CopyofCavemanmufflermods002.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/CopyofCavemanmufflermods002.jpg.html)
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nice cut for fun. I got in the habit of doing all my dual ports on opposite side of stock port on stihl. like I did on this 288 husqvarna
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I'm doing some work on my 084 and I need to open the crank case to replace the bearings, I've never done it before can anyone give me some advice on how to do it?
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I never had to split a 084. Anyone?
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It's really no different than splitting any other saw, just bigger.
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I never have used any special tools.
Shows the husky tool on a 034.
http://youtu.be/vejgxWUpVo4
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Thread with how to's on splitting with homemade tool
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/how-to-video-thread/
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Hi, I'm rebuilding an 084 AV and I am wondering about the air filter. The one I have has the flocked air filter but it's shot. I've noticed that most of the air filter kits sold for the 084 are with the other kind of round air filter that looks more like a mini car air filter. Are they interchangeable or do I need to find the flocked flat air filter?
Also, any tips for splitting the case? I need to replace the main bearings.
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The filter base is different for the other kind of filter.
The flocked filter was fine for me as I was just a firewood guy and might use the saw heavy for a couple days once/year.
The 084 was not bad about stuffing up the filter.
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I bought a max flow kit for my 088. I figure that will e a better setup for milling.
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Also, any tips for splitting the case? I need to replace the main bearings.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/re-084-crank/msg32920/#msg32920
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Is this the right 084 filter for his needs? Looks like flocked and mesh offered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STIHL-AIR-FILTER-FITS-088-084-11241201602-OEM-/390709132402?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af8143c72
another http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-STIHL-084-CHAINSAW-FLOCKED-AIR-FILTER-P-N-1124-120-1600-11241201600-/320918326916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab8390e84
more http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STIHL-Chainsaw-OEM-Flocked-Air-Filter-Cleaner-Element-084-O84-1124-120-1600-/230703081647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b6f9a8af
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-084-AIR-FILTER-GOOD-USED-CHAINSAW-PART-NYLON-/161031878123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item257e3f75eb
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Thanks Cut4Fun, this is a huge help. Looks like the parts are majorly backordered, but I'm gonna try to get everything set up for when they arrive.
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I would be checking eBay and any other source for those parts also. A lot is NLA from
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is it possible to put an 090 top end on an 084 case?
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Takes a lot of Work, welding, cutting,Etc
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Got an 084 in that was locked up. Pulled the front muffler cover found piston pieces and ring pieces. Only on the exhaust side. Trying to figure out what happen no seize marks. Bottom end bearings are good. A little play in the big end bearing but have seen worse. The cylinder looks good and salvageable. No deep score marks. Could it be from over speed? Or just a faulty piston. Guy said it was rebuild not that long ago. And yes the piston was installed correctly.
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Also noticed the coil is rubbing the flywheel. Read somewhere that you can gain some timing will a close coil gap. Kind of stumped.
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Going to go with the saw was running lean and over revved the motor. The extra heat made the rings stick. And the rings caught the bottom of the exhaust port and caused the piston failure. The plug color looks to be ok based on the color chart I looked at. Reddish brown to light grey. There is a chip in the cylinder at the bottom of the exhaust port. The beveled edge is gone. What do you guys think clean up the bottom of the exhaust port and rebevel or is it junk?
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Put a bevel on it and smooth it out best you can.
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Was the piston a OEM or the cheap aftermarket ones out there for $25. I had always wondered about the afm ones for the 084 088 etc.
Show me a pic of ring area to top crown and I can tell if oem or not.
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It is oem for sure has the s embossed in the top.
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It is oem for sure has the s embossed in the top.
Here is what I go by. See the 2 (lost for words right now) above the rings on oem. Afm dont have them.
(http://photo.blsnelling.com/Chainsaws/NOS-084/i-cCnjvcL/0/M/IMG_5301-M.jpg)
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Has mahle stamped on the skirt on the inside of the piston.
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Has mahle stamped on the skirt on the inside of the piston.
I never paid attention or over looked that in the past. I had 4 runners even at one time. 2 woods ported, 1 piped race ported, 1 stock.
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Do you think that I am close in my theory in a lean running condition that caused the ring to stick and and catch the exhaust port. Also can you pressure/vacuum test the crankcase with the piston out of the saw.
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Yes if you seal off the intake, exhaust, & the pressure relief valve.
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Thanks I was thinking you could. Just wanted to here from someone else before I wasted any time. If it leaks through the decomp then the decomp is bad.
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Yes, and a tight spark plug too.
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Thanks 660. Cut my piston does have the 2 grooves above the top ring.
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The decomp is leaking won't hold vac or pressure. It is also leaking on the flywheel side where the generator would mount in the top threaded hole. If if where your guys saw would you put new seals, impulse, intake manifold on the saw or just leave it.
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Affirmative on everything you mentioned! if it is left leaking, it will just fail again! Decomp is no big deal to replace, the rest is a little more problematic but still needs to be done. You could replace the decomp with a blocking plug $2-4 from dealer. Leak from gen mount hole is beyond my knowledge for this model saw.
My experience with other saws that have a provision for mounting generators under the flywheel is that the holes for the mounting bolts are usually blind. If the other holes are not leaking then perhaps the leak could be repaired by putting a bolt in the hole with some red Loc-Tite (WAG)! Does not make sense that Stihl would have left a mounting hole open to the inside of the crankcase without providing a method to seal it off!
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Well they are blind holes. I can still see the end of the hole. Don't know if they they got in there to far with the drill and tap or what. It is a very slow leak. For the decomp the one on an 084 is coarse thread. Not like the ones for 260-660. I usually replace all the above mentioned stuff when I would do a top end replacement. But the guy I am fixing it for does not like to spend any money.
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Well they are blind holes. I can still see the end of the hole. Don't know if they they got in there to far with the drill and tap or what. It is a very slow leak. For the decomp the one on an 084 is coarse thread. Not like the ones for 260-660. I usually replace all the above mentioned stuff when I would do a top end replacement. But the guy I am fixing it for does not like to spend any money.
Then tell him it isn't worth fixing and don't waste your time and his money.
They are WAY too expensive to half ass.
Plus, it will be your fault when it fails again because he didn't want to spend the $$$ to fix it correctly!
Mike
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Very true. Talked to him yesterday and let him know what I thought and have not heard how he wants to go yet. Hope he will put the parts in the saw. Should make a real nice saw for a long time.
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Perhaps if you could find three of the correct screws that were short enough that they would not interfere with the flywheel, you could use them and sealer to block all three holes and stop the slow leak. Not much $ and would keep the saw from coming back.
Like MS61 said above. If I get a saw that needs something and the owner does not want to pay for, I'll put it in anyway at my expense just to keep it from coming back, with the owner whining at me! You cannot work miracles but you can avoid the whining!
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Have done some of that my self. We will see. He is to call me tomorrow and will find out.
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Are there differences in early vs later 084 flywheels. Do all have the small "module" in addition to the coil? Thanks. Adam
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I know this dont answer your question. I remember 3 coils and 2 flywheels. Thinking 1 of the flywheels had dual key ways.
I would swear 1 of my 084's didnt have the small trigger.
I'll go look at IPL's etc.
I gave my hard copy of 084 service manual away. So cant look there.
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Kev, the one I have here is a basic coil/flywheel set up like the 088/880. Sold one a while back that had the small metal module mounted near the flywheel. Reason I ask, is that Adam32 has one he's putting together that seems to be way too advanced... I'll check part numbers on mine tonight
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Found a old video of the 084 I rebuilt stock that Adam Clarke had gave me at Chardon and then traded to other Adam out west.
Just stock 084 .404 chain and ole spruce test cuts after rebuilding.
Stock Stihl 084 running stihl ES bar, 7T sprocket and 404 woodsman pro chain. ( CHAIN is crap out of the box )
2 cuts let it feed, 3 cut I pushed it hard into knots I cut in half.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tkkXiM4GTg
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Well traveled Stihl!!! Lol. Interesting life its had, after Adam Artzer got it from you he sent it back to me for a pipe and some porting, I had no idea it was the same saw I got from Rick Helsel and gave to Kevin when I was visiting in Chardon, OH. The saw was a real pig, Kevin did a nice job cleaning it up and getting it going. Adamartzer32 youtube channel has a vid or two of it running on pipe and gasoline.
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Maybe Adam will post videos here to show stock to wild, past to present.
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http://youtu.be/LSvg0noEN0E
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To freaking cool on present day video.
I had dubbed it project ugly ducking back in the day.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/Copyofproject084.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/Copyofproject084.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/Copyofproject084004.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/Copyofproject084004.jpg.html)
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http://youtu.be/qTioDk7B6bg
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I had my hands on it when it was stock,good runner .
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I suppose it had happen sooner than later I got me a rather nice 084 yesterday bought from a furniture maker who bought it new .... now it can sit on one of my shelves and keep the dust from settling were it sits.
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a509/mcbob1/30102014373_zpseedb371d.jpg) (http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/mcbob1/media/30102014373_zpseedb371d.jpg.html)
(http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/a509/mcbob1/30102014372_zps4a5fa21e.jpg) (http://s1281.photobucket.com/user/mcbob1/media/30102014372_zps4a5fa21e.jpg.html)
Fitted up with 3/8 bar and chain came with 2 spare chains as well
McBob
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Oh you'll be tinkering with and just won't tell anybody . ;D
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They were my fav big saw stock and woods ported. Between 084 3120 166. Little lighter then 088 too. Sold 5 so far.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/CopyofDN084016.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/084S/CopyofDN084016.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/CopyofDN084014.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/084S/CopyofDN084014.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/084S/CopyofDN084013.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/084S/CopyofDN084013.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/84350371031001_zpscaed8aa4.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/84350371031001_zpscaed8aa4.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/next084/20101054.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/next084/20101054.jpg.html)
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Oh you'll be tinkering with and just won't tell anybody . ;D
Why would I let everyone down Al after all everyone knows how to get them going ................ its not rocket science besides this one would look great sitting on the bottom row of my shelving under my Mac's
And it will make a great doorstopper
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Under the Macs? Blasphemy! !! Hope you've been well Bob!
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under my Mac's like that bit Bob. Bob have you suffered a large hit on the head or something or is there a lady on the scene that prefers the orange and white because apart from your 10 cube there has been very little macaction coming from you lately
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The one I have spends most of its time on the shelf with the big McCullochs which also don't see much action .On the other hand I doubt any of them gets worn out in my life time .The reserve fleet so to speak .
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Well I needed a new doorstopper as I wore the ass out of a 3120 here holding it open cant have the Mac's catching a chill now can we
McBob
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Al Smith running my woods ported 084 at about 1min 24seconds in. My race muffler 3120 at about 1min 32seconds in.
http://youtu.be/D7pGfkR0JXk
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Cool vid. Al did a good job!
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It was fun but I think I tied for the most disquals that day. ;D
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It was fun but I think I tied for the most disquals that day. ;D
You know if you hadnt cut out in the 5ci class with my woods port. You would have beat me with my own 375 woods ported against my alky 262 4ci saw running in the 5ci class.
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What's the scoop on 084 crank seals? I think we discussed before using the ms880/780 seals? Any ideas on alternate p/n's that will work?
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Man I remember but cant remember. Know what I mean.
Quick dig.
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Per JJ The flywheel side seal (9640 003 1600) is the same seal as the PTO side on 024/026/MS-260/MS-361/034/036/MS-360 saws. The PTO side 084 seal (2250) is proprietary to the 084/088/MS-880.
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JJ redneck 084 seal puller - A seal puller in those saws isn't necessary. Just take a tuning screwdriver, heat the end up orange-hot, and bend the last 3/8" over 90 degrees. That make a fine seal puller for 084 seals.
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Thanks bud ,that's good news. Looks like the case gasket is gonna be hard to get. Found some AM looking gaskets in England ( ebay) may just make one....
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This one? http://www.lsengineers.co.uk/gasket-stihl-part-no-1124-029-0500.html
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I've got a 084 that's acting like the timing is off.
It's kicking like a mule when I pull it over, fires, and then floods the cylinder like it's
misfiring or not firing in time.
It has the single notched flywheel 1124 400 1200 which becomes a 1124 400 1203
and this is the coil. I don't know if this is the right flywheel coil combo.
I'm of getting my arm ripped off by this thing.
It's got a brand new OEM top end, complete new fuel system on it also.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y244/CaleSigas/011_zps1p3juqho.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/CaleSigas/media/011_zps1p3juqho.jpg.html)
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Coil gap affects timing a little? But I was thinking a bigger gap retards the timing?
I had a nice 084. I don't remember it kicking in the past?
Last year I went to start it and it hurt my arm and shoulder real bad a couple times before I got it going. It has Elastostart but it got me anyway. I was thinking that I wasn't the man I used to be and wasn't pulling it fast enough? It actually started with the normal amount of pulls.
I sold it!
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Perhaps the flywheel isn't the proper p/n?
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I wish I could remember the combos. Let me dig.
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copy paste The coil part number 1124-400-1308 is no longer available starting sometime in 2010.
There are three ignition module produced for the 084:
1124-400-1305 Unlimited Ignition Module which requires the Trigger 1118 400 1001 (First Production)
1124-400-1306 Limited Ignition Module (Second Production)
1124-400-1308 Unlimited Ignition Module (Third Production)
Nothing on flywheels yet. But I remember 2 of them at least.
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copy paste more info. flywheel is a 1124 400 1203 dual keyway. The dogleg coil uses the "P" keyway. The 3-bolt coil uses the "B" keyway.
I had one that had a stand alone coil without a trigger. But cant remember which one or fly it had.
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jj = unlimited ignitions use slot B since the flywheel makes 3/4 of a full rotation before the coil fires after the magnets pass over the lamination.
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I'm pretty sure I bought that DN piped 084 from Jack M, can't remember who I sold it to though. I didn't have a good chain at the time for it but she was a beast none the less.
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I'm pretty sure I bought that DN piped 084 from Jack M, can't remember who I sold it to though. I didn't have a good chain at the time for it but she was a beast none the less.
I think Zach and Joe had it at one time. Not sure they still do.
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I know Joe bought a DN 660 from me and still has it, I bought that 660 from Jack also, lol. Those old GTGs were like a swap meet.
I found a decent 440 that is almost ready to head your way, just need to run a few more tanks through her. ;D
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I liked running that 084. It was fun and you didn't have to worry about overheating it.
Sounds good.
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Thk kevin!
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I'm pretty sure I bought that DN piped 084 from Jack M, can't remember who I sold it to though. I didn't have a good chain at the time for it but she was a beast none the less.
Did you go by SS......... on AS?
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Yup, 2K, the original. ;D
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I was wondering if that was you with the 6.8 name.
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Does anyone know if the piston pump set from on 088/880 will work for the 084 oil pump. the 084 part number is 1124 007 1014 the part number for the 880 kit is 1124 007 1013. Based of the IPL they share alot of the same parts on that end of the pump. washers/o rings/seals/springs.
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088 "piston" is slightly shorter from what I remember, but fits. Should pump LESS than 084 piston
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Was hoping to get lucky and they would be a direct swap. I don't think the pump or worm are worn out. Just some ware on the pump teeth, but that is mostly from the metal worm gear that drives it. Think I will just hunt down the o rings and seals to re seal it.
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Should be a direct swap, just pump slightly less than the 084 piston
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Thanks Adam
Do you guys think it would be worth the money to try and find the covers to run the oval style filter verse the flat filter. Just thinking of part availability as time goes on. Also what are your thought on the oil pump driver and clutch drum should I try and find the updated parts for that as well.
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Black HD filters are really good IMO. Be worthwhile if you're keeping the saw and planning on using it.
Flat spring steel pump driver vs, newer square wire driver?
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yes the flat spring driver vs the new style wire
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Buy a max flow kit and the HD filter base. I just picked up a new oiler for another guy from my local dealer. They had one leftover from years before.
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Looks like the old style clutch drum for the flat spring oil driver is no longer available from the factory. Seems the new style 880 driver is the one to get. thought about getting the max flow kit. just have not made up my mind yet. would still like to have the oem covers. I already have the k and n filter kit that i bought years ago thinking they would work for a 660. i did find and buy a oval style filter base from chainsawr.
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Looking for the part number for the press sleeve/installing tool for the ignition side crank seal. The one listed in the 088 service manual is to big. Guess i could find a socket. But would rather have the tool. Have a press sleeve for the 261 that I think will work. The special tool part numbers are in the back of the service manual for those of you that have a paper copy of the 084 SM.
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Looking for the part number for the press sleeve/installing tool for the ignition side crank seal. The one listed in the 088 service manual is to big. Guess i could find a socket. But would rather have the tool. Have a press sleeve for the 261 that I think will work. The special tool part numbers are in the back of the service manual for those of you that have a paper copy of the 084 SM.
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I figured out that a seal driver for a husky 55 and 257 work good for the ignition side bearing. And a seal driver for a 394-3120 works well for the pto side. It is a little smaller then I would like but works just fine. The driver for the 088/880 part number 1127 893 2400. Does not work for either side. It is to big around for the ignition side. And the hole in the center is not deep enough for the pto side.
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Good to know. Thk
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Cool to know and thanks for sharing.
Of all those 084 I had never had to do seals or crank bearings. I think 3 of them had been gone through before all the porting though.
Even the stock one I got from you Adam didnt need them when I had it. Were they replaced when it went hotsaw?
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I had a hard copy of 084 SM but gave it to @man of stihl maybe he will look in it for you.
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Thanks Cut. Think I will send him a pm and see if we can get the ball rolling. Guess it does not matter as the seals are in but it would be nice the have the part numbers stored some where.
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The husky seal drivers above work well for the crank seals not the bearings just saw my typing error. Sorry for the bad info.
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Kev, seals in the 084 hotsaw are still fine. Working on one now where the proprietary Stihl seal had backed out or was never properly seated. Popped it out with a screwdriver without damaging it. Lol. Gonna try the Husky install as per Jmester's idea this weekend
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If it is the pto side Adam just be careful as the driver does not go all the way to edge of the seal. I am sure you will be fine.
A little off topic does an 084 respond well to a little more timing. Also going to do a mm. Just thinking while it is a part might take advantage to make a better running saw.
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Ok, thanks for the heads up. More advance would be ok if you're keeping the saw and realize it puts more heat into the piston/cylinder Id leave the ignition alone if your gonna sell it. Reduces the safety margin if a jackass buys it and hammers the motor on a long cut with a dull chain!! Lol
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I had a 084 for several years. Someone had fixed it up. 30" bar and .404/.063 chain.
It was delightful in big wood. Mighty heavy in small wood. Very reliable for me.
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Really good saws, but they take a toll on your body if using them for long periods!
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Thanks Cut. Think I will send him a pm and see if we can get the ball rolling. Guess it does not matter as the seals are in but it would be nice the have the part numbers stored some where.
PM sent
Stihl frowns on part numbers out in the open.
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Thanks Cut. Think I will send him a pm and see if we can get the ball rolling. Guess it does not matter as the seals are in but it would be nice the have the part numbers stored some where.
PM sent
Stihl frowns on part numbers out in the open.
PM me too. I can do part numbers. I block stihl and SM boards from guest. ;)
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Pm sent.
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The 1127 893 2400 seal driver for the 088 is the right driver for the 084. Don't know if the one I have was not made correctly drilled the hole threw the center to 1/2" and it fits like a glove.
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Here I will put them here. Thanks MOS and JM
Stihl 084 part numbers for ignition side oil seal press sleeve is 1124 893 2400, clutch side is 1119 893 2401.
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Just posting pic here so folks know what they are.
stihl 084 HD air filter base special nuts made of aluminum 1124 141 8305 11241418305
Only found 2.
They are yours if your still wanting @jmester
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Indeed I do still want them. I am on my way to the Pay Pal machine.
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There is another NOS cyl cover on Ebay didn't get the link.
Shep
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Indeed I do still want them. I am on my way to the Pay Pal machine.
Thank you for the extra sent to use for site.
Going to try and ship Mon_Tue
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Stihl aftermarket 084 p +c . Done forget you can save 10% off purchase using code word in members where to by thread here.
aftermarket 084
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Some reason the link didnt take above post. http://www.hlsproparts.com/Stihl-084-cylinder-kit-60mm-p/cp30084.htm
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Come across some old info back in 2007 where I was trying to learn the differences in HT 1 2 3 5 7 etc carbs back then.
Now still trying to find my info on which ones had the gov rev limiter type deal inside. ??? Thinking it was 3 and ? Not sure.
me = If you had a choice between putting back Tilly carbs for your bigger stihls.
Which is the better carb to put back and why? HT-1 or HT-7 ? or is the circuitry the same?
Which one of these carbs has better circuity for opening up for more fuel flow or are they the same?
Dennis Cahoon = One thing about the newer HT's, they have a Hi speed jet that's in the way when you want to round slot (T-slot) the fuel area. You can do it but it's annoying to work around. When I have time, I'll take a look at the HT's I have and try to answer you question better. I would go with the HT-1.
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Kev, the original HT has a very simple fuel circuit much like the smaller HS tillotson. The HT11 seen on the 088, etc has a slightly different circuit as Cahoon mentioned
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Pretty sure the pump diaphragm is the same as the smaller HS tilly
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I had 3 HT-1 carbs when it was all said and done. I know 2 of them still in Ohio.
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Trying to figure out which ones had that circuit that flooded them at a certain rpm like rev limited gov. Had some that had been sealed over in saws.
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HT 11 and 12 had the enrichment circuit I believe. Been a while since I've worked on one.
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Thinking the HT 7 had that too.
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I had 3 HT-1 carbs when it was all said and done. I know 2 of them still in Ohio.
Nope... all 3 still here :) remember the carb in my pp084? What all was done to that thing...
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The 084 HT carb I put on my 064 back in 1988 is a HT 3A 626 and no rev limit circuit in it.
The 084 was introduced 2 years earlier in '86.
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I loved those early 14.1 lb. slimline 064's .......best logging saw I ever had.
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Seen stihl 026 and 361 saws with the 084 carbs.
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We never had small cube modified classes here, but I see they're poplar out east in 8x8.
To run a 27mm HT carb on a 50cc 026 you're getting into the realm of a reed valve intake manifold and a tune pipe, as it's piston port is starting to get pretty unefficient .
So did my HT 3A # help you?
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So did my HT 3A # help you?
I'll pass it on. Used to know which ones had it, but not anymore.
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Yeah alot of water has gone under the bridge for me too in the last 30 years or more. I used to know unit numbers by heart at one time, just don't have any use for them anymore.
I just happened to find the HT # in a binder I keep for my bikesaw and other saws I built up.
Still have reamers I bored out HS carbs with and other gadgets I forgot what the heck their for :D
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I need to try the one I have at home. I think it's a 7
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Thk kevin!
I just read this and thought you may want to check it out.
((((((( researching and found out you can use a stihl 066 coil # 1122 400 1314 on a stihl 084. got a new one from eBay for $20. Only one of the holes line up but I just made a strap from one of the other holes to the coil there's enough room under the coil to bolt the strap right to it. had the unlimited coil so there was no need to change the flywheel to the other slot because the 066 coil is unlimited as well. had the 084 with 2 key slots so it was easy to do. Now she rips again for $20 yesterday was a good day.))))))))
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Good to know. Thank you
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Can you replace them without splitting the case? Looks like the flywheel side shouldn't be a problem, haven't got to the other side yet.
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Sending you stihl 084 IPL in PM
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Got the IPL, thank you. Makes things a lot easier.
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No need to split the case to replace the crank seals.
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Yep, pretty easy to do job. New seals and intake boot, fuel and impulse line, opened up the muffler some and the old girl is back in business for the first time in about 20 years
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Does any one know if the HT-12 from an 088 is a direct swap for the ht 7?
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I had a 7. Would think it would be. Just my WAG
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I was looking at the ipls of both saws and it looks like everything should line up. Just wanted some other opinions.
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Adam and Mike should know for sure. I only had the HT 1 3 5 7
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I am sure they will chime in.
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Pretty sure they will. I'm going to need one more of these myself if anyone stumbles upon several.
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HT11 and 12 from the 088 will fit the older saws. Some fuel circuit variations but between the early HT'S and later carbs if you're planing on drilling them for alky.
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Billet covers (cheapstihlchainsawparts or whatever he goes by nowdays)for 084 their doing on ebay now.
Still surprised a aftermarket hasnt popped a 1000 or more of these back halves out yet.
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Only way to come out on that billet is to recycle the chips. Be a ton of them.
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Saving some pics of Mikes homemade stihl 084 mufflers.
@mdavlee pics of the pieces you cut and using etc?
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Now that I have a pattern I may get all of it laser cut and just have to assemble and weld.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170707/993def9744a9df5a619c7eb38ba9a71f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170707/f353b9e674c7f32ffc5eb7eb3bead753.jpg)
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Very nice and thought out. 8)
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Yep. Those parts would have taken me a long time to build.
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There is a Aussie making cast aluminum stihl 084 muffler 8)
pics
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That's cool.
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inside
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Phil = If there's enough interest in the cast 084 mufflers I'll start by casting a batch of ten (10), price would be $200- usd each.
Thanks, Phil.
Paper specs and what I said in 2008. = weight of PHO of a MS880 is 22.3LBS flush handle, 084 same PHO 20.7LBS, 088 same PHO 21.8LBS.
I was comparing the MS880 and 084, yes I have lifted and ran both. and could feel the weight difference from the get go. I know after running either for any amount of time the extra weight of the 880 wouldn't matter anyways, but there is a notable bulk of the 880 sitting beside the 084, the 084 seems more streamed lined. I wouldn't kick any of them out of the garage though.
084 20.7LBS 8.6bhp
088 21.8LBS 8.7bhp
MS880 22.3lbs 8.6bhp
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Good price. I bet he's sell them.
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Merged most of the stihl 084 info into one thread to make it easier to find.
Also saving some old pics of 084's I used to run.
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Just saving some info as Jason porting a 084 for Tom.
084s are notorious for spitting out the flywheel side seal. Seals need set deep into the case.
The dual keyed flywheel was in the wrong spot after swapping a 1309 coil on it
The red mark represents the flywheel position when running a limited coil. The other slot is for unlimited!
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So much info in thread I forgot about. Was pulling some to ad to chainsaw repair group 084 thread.
Info saved from JJ. Is this right as I dont recall anymore? = The flywheel side seal (9640 003 1600) is the same seal as the PTO side on 024/026/MS-260/MS-361/034/036/MS-360 saws. The PTO side 084 seal (2250) is proprietary to the 084/088/MS-880.
The coil part number 1124-400-1308 is no longer available starting sometime in 2010.
There are three ignition module produced for the 084:
1124-400-1305 Unlimited Ignition Module which requires the Trigger 1118 400 1001 (First Production)
1124-400-1306 Limited Ignition Module (Second Production)
1124-400-1308 Unlimited Ignition Module (Third Production)
flywheel is a 1124 400 1203 dual keyway. The dogleg coil uses the "P" keyway. The 3-bolt coil uses the "B" keyway.
JJ = unlimited ignitions use slot B since the flywheel makes 3/4 of a full rotation before the coil fires after the magnets pass over the lamination.
Most of us dont use but will put here anyway. Stihl 084 part numbers for ignition side oil seal press sleeve is 1124 893 2400, clutch side is 1119 893 2401.
Come across some old info back in 2007 where I was trying to learn the differences in HT 1 2 3 5 7 etc carbs back then.
Now still trying to find my info on which ones had the gov rev limiter type deal inside. ??? Thinking it was 3 and ? Not sure.
me = If you had a choice between putting back Tilly carbs for your bigger stihls.
Which is the better carb to put back and why? HT-1 or HT-7 ? or is the circuitry the same?
Which one of these carbs has better circuity for opening up for more fuel flow or are they the same?
Dennis Cahoon = One thing about the newer HT's, they have a Hi speed jet that's in the way when you want to round slot (T-slot) the fuel area. You can do it but it's annoying to work around. When I have time, I'll take a look at the HT's I have and try to answer you question better. I would go with the HT-1.