Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: rms61moparman on February 05, 2012, 06:54:34 pm
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I picked up a really clean Poulan Pro 295 recently and have been really impressed with the way it runs and cuts.
It is pulling a 16" full comp .325 Oregon 20LPX and is remarkable.
I had it in some 10"-14" Mulberry today and was astounded.
Why has this little saw been such a secret???
Is it just because of the Poulan name on it?
Mike
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I knew about them Mike ;). 46cc if I remember.
Watch the oiler, seemed to be a problem on them from past reads of owners.
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Well I have a 2750 running full comp 3/8ths on a 12 inch bar that is a BEAST!!!
Also a PP295 running .325 on a 16" narrow kerf Husky bar that is a SUPER little limbing saw!
Mike
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Back quite a few years ago when I was into RC airplanes, A lot of guys were into converting saw engines into airplane engines. I think the 295 Poulan was one that a lot of conversions were made from. Never did get my hands on one to try. Only one I ever did, was a Ryobi 31cc.
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I bought two Homelite 45cc Timberman 20" saws from pawn shops back 10 yrs ago with the idea of converting them into model airplane engines but never got around to it. I still use them as chainsaws. One of them is always on the back of the Rhino side by side. I've never had any trouble with them. One has a black cover and the other a red cover. The black top one has a bolt on carb boot and the red one has a clamp on boot. I like the black top one better though there is not much difference.
I have a Echo 50cc and a Dolmar 111 52cc, a Red Max 620, and a twin Dolmar 111 104cc as well as a fully modified Homelite 30 with pop up and the whole bit also that were purchased already converted.
I did convert two Homelite, two MCulloch 32, one Ryobi 31, and one Weed Eater 21 weed whacker engines into airplane engines.
One Homelite I sold and the other 30cc I use on a plane.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Auburn/BridiStick1.jpg)
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Nice one 660Magnum! Here is a not so great pic of one of the Ryobi's I did. LOL I fear we are drifting away from chainsaws here.. ;D
(http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/Gregg500/House2004099.jpg)
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That Sig Four Star 120 looks nice with the Ryobi.
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The Poulan Pro 295 was very popular back around 2004 as a converted 46cc model engine. There was a guy somewhere around Wisconsin that bought the returned saws and converted them. They were called Berrelli or something like that?
Here is a guy in Florida that put a Mac 3214 to good use on a sled type air boat. it performs very well. I think he has a 18 X 8 prop on it in the picture. He has several videos posted.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpBScnuVZn8&feature
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I have this PP 295 that I modded about a year ago. I did some porting nothing serious just widened the exhaust and intake some and then of course muffler modded it. I have another that I am going to get more serious on and see how that does. Just thought I would add a couple of pics.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=729.0;attach=2170;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=729.0;attach=2168;image)
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That 295 looks better than new
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Thanks on the saw. I had to actually do a lot of work on that saw. New piston and ring, two of the engine mounting bolts were broken off and needed drilled out. One of the metal bushings for the engine mount in the plastic was missing and made another on my lathe. I probably have more into it than it is worth.
I did take it up to Wyoming last year and helped the BIL cut firewood at 8000 ft. The BIL looked at me funny when I got it out but it kept up just fine since all we were cutting was beetle kill pine.
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Did you have to touch up the needles a little in Wyoming at 8000 ft.
My son took a plastic Mac with him to Wyoming and it was only 7000 in Big Piney. I forgot to show him anything about adjusting needles. He sawed some on a cottonwod or two and never said anything about the saw not running right. I had set the needles here where it is 1000.
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Oh yea the first thing I did was to get my little splined Poulan carb adjuster out. It would barely idle.
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Well I have a 2750 running full comp 3/8ths on a 12 inch bar that is a BEAST!!!
Also a PP295 running .325 on a 16" narrow kerf Husky bar that is a SUPER little limbing saw!
Mike
Mine is a 20" with .325 chain. Throws chips like a "B" it is my bucking saw, I LOVE the way it runs! I liked it so much that I bought a 4620 avl, put the bar/chain/sprocket off of my 2150 on it (16" 3/8 lp (had several bars, and a mile of chain to use up!)). Anyway, the 4620 cuts just as good, just doesn't oil too well, working on that right now, I'm sure that I'll get it figured out.
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I have this PP 295 that I modded about a year ago. I did some porting nothing serious just widened the exhaust and intake some and then of course muffler modded it. I have another that I am going to get more serious on and see how that does. Just thought I would add a couple of pics.
I like the mods...someday I'd like to learn how to get just a little bit more out of an already great saw!
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Well I have been working on another Poulan 295. I like these saws they are easy to work on and modify and respond very well. I put a .325 18" bar on this one with a 7 pin rim, and yes I did find a rim sprocket for it. I did a compression test before starting and it was 150 psi and really not bad. The squish was at .040".
So the mods I did I took the lazy way out and did not mount a degree wheel to check any of the numbers I just modded it. I raised the exhaust port just alittle and widened it. I took the muffler apart and cut the deflector open and put a spark arrestor around it. I then double ported the outside of the muffler and matched it to the the exhaust port on the engine. Then I welded it all back up.
The intake port I widened and lowered it alittle. The transfers I pointed toward the intake port but did not raise them.
The squish which was .040 I took it to .020" and ended up with 160 psi. So I am happy with that because I raised the exhaust port. Next I checked it for free porting because the cylinder did drop by .020" and no free porting.
I did put new main bearings and seals but I kept the same piston and rings in it. I then advanced the timing I would say around 4 degrees.
The saw started real easy and idles real good. I tuned it in some wood and with good 4 stroking was able to get 14,000 rpm out of it so far.
All in all I am happy with the out come and with the cost of the power head at 50.00 and the bearing and seals around 20.00 and have a but kicking little 46cc saw for 70.00 bucks. Here are a few pics.
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:) how did you adjust the squish?
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
Very nice. 8) (http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ChrissyP24/113.gif) (http://media.photobucket.com/user/ChrissyP24/media/113.gif.html)
You had me wondering how too.
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
nice! did you do any decking of the mating surface?
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
nice! did you do any decking of the mating surface?
Once I got the bearing seating depth lower by .020" I then sanded down the base by .020. I then put it all together and checked the squish and got my .020". I might add that I probably did this measurement 5 or 6 times until I got it to where I wanted it.
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Once I got the bearing seating area to the right depth which was another .020". I then sanded the bottom of the cylinder flat until I removed .020 from there also. I then put it all together and checked the squish to make sure it was at .020". I probably did this measurement 5 or 6 times to make sure it was correct and I did not over shoot anything.
You know they are always saying clamshells you cannot raise the compression on them because you cannot drop the cylinder. So I wanted to come up with a fairly simple method without using a vertical mill which would probably would have been the proper way. But until you try something you never know.
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
Very cool you go boy!!!!! Great job I'm impressed.
Shep
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This is the redneck chainsaw repair forum right.
I made this to the exact width and the exact diameter of the 295 crankcase and where the bearings seat. Then I mounted the cylinder upside down in my vise and set it in there and applied pressure equally to both sides. Rotating the cylinder from side to side and taking lots of measurements. I pressure checked it when I was done and it was nice and tight with no leaks.
Very cool you go boy!!!!! Great job I'm impressed.
Shep
Thanks
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That IS a very cool way to make a GREAT saw even better!
Wonder what it would cost to have this done?
Mike
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I do not know but it is fun being able to try different things and have a good out come. The worst would have been I was out a cylinder for a 295. I have never posted a video before and I am going to try and post one of the saw running. It is really quick on the acceleration.
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I can't keep a 295!
Every time I get one running like I want, someone else decides they like it more than me.
Mike
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Well I took the 295 out today and cut up some more of this cottonwood I have. I have to say this little saw cuts like nobody's business. I cut some of the large rounds into quarters and found that when noodling it clears chips pretty good too. I do not know what the elevation is here but we are higher then Denver here. I may have to take another one of my 295's and do the same mods to it also. For what this saw costs and the price of parts I would take this saw over many other 46cc saws.
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google search shows this. Sound right? The elevation of (removed) is 6,062 FT
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google search shows this. Sound right? The elevation of (removed) is 6,062 FT
That could be right. I have a GPS here and it has elevation readings on it.
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Got the GPS out and got a reading of 6203 ft. That is a hugh difference from just a couple hundred feet above sea level in California. Kevin your google search was pretty darn close.
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This is the PP 295 that I modded. Taken at 6000 ft above sea level. It is running a 18" bar .325 chain.
The wood is 14" elm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=ldnrJDpUSbk
Fixing video link
http://youtu.be/ldnrJDpUSbk
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Fixed video link and sounds nice. So is the thinner air messing with the settings much? Noticeable power loss in cuts?
Just going by memory when 18-20 living in MT and 2 stroke dirt bikes. We all know how bad that can be now days.
http://youtu.be/ldnrJDpUSbk
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Thanks for fixing that. I tried several times and could not get it.
Sounds like the 295 needs alittle more leaning out, but the altitude really dropped the compression much more than I thought it would and I had to bump up the idle screw quite a bit on several saws to keep them running. Still not bad though for a 46cc Poulan.
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Those 295's were popular as model airplane engines about 10 years ago.
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Did they do anything to the engines or leave them stock?
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They were clamshells and they were left stock. The clutch side crankshaft was sawn off near the seal and sometimes even with the bearing and a plug put in where the seal was supposed to be. Some of these had the combination seal/bearing and a stub of the crank was left sticking out. Most of these were the refurb saws.
Back in the 90's there was a lot of hop up done to the Homelite weedies. Same old story with squish and porting. These were cantilever cranks and they would cut the back of the crankcase off to move the back plate closer to lower crankcase volume. I have a Homelite 30 based engine with a CNC crankcase. It has all the tricks. It is set up for gas but has a alcohol carb on it. You could run model fuel in it by just opening up the needles. Even glow fuel. I don't like alcohol and nitro for it makes the engine rust on the inside. I also have a Mac 32 weedie that was originally a 28 and I put a 32 jug on it. It has a cut down jug and domed piston too. I have bigger carbs on all my converted engines.
I have a Dolmar 115 with a CNC crankcase and aluminum rod. But the porting is stock. I also have a Eco 520 that is stock as well as a Redmax 6200. These all have battery power ignitions.
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I really think the 295 is one of the most under rated saws ever built. Even though they are a clamshell, they are dead reliable, super easy to work on, parts are dirt cheap, the A/V is good on them, and they make really decent power for a 46cc saw. I installed an older 2 piece muffler that I opened the outlet on and it is "snappy"
The only down fall to them that I can think of is they come with that 20" bar and should be a 16". I have mine set up with a rim drive 3/8 and 7 pin rim and am running that Stihl PS3 chain and it really likes that set up. I've cut the rakers down a little and it is fast when sharp. Yeah I know that the rim is supposed to be for standard 3/8 chain but the pico runs just fine on it.
I will put mine up against any MS250 out there (stock for stock) and ain't gonna lose many of those fights........jus sayin.........
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I really think the 295 is one of the most under rated saws ever built. Even though they are a clamshell, they are dead reliable, super easy to work on, parts are dirt cheap, the A/V is good on them, and they make really decent power for a 46cc saw. I installed an older 2 piece muffler that I opened the outlet on and it is "snappy"
The only down fall to them that I can think of is they come with that 20" bar and should be a 16". I have mine set up with a rim drive 3/8 and 7 pin rim and am running that Stihl PS3 chain and it really likes that set up. I've cut the rakers down a little and it is fast when sharp. Yeah I know that the rim is supposed to be for standard 3/8 chain but the pico runs just fine on it.
I will put mine up against any MS250 out there (stock for stock) and ain't gonna lose many of those fights........jus sayin.........
Very well put.
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I had two Homelite 45's for some 10 years and never any trouble with them. These are made very much like the Poulan 295. I more or less replaced these two Homelites with a Stihl 025 and a 250. I bought the Homelites to make model airplane engines out of them but the trend became obsolete before I got around to it.
Free running those Homelites only ran around 10,000 rpm. They were from like 1999 and 2001. One had the carb fastened to the engine and the other had the carb attached to the plastic case with a intake boot like the Poulan 295. Both Homelites ran the same though. One was 20 X.325 and the other was 18 X .325. I thought they were fine when I ran them and they still run as good as ever today for the person that owns them. I still maintain them. I had bought the older one as a refurb and the newer one came from a pawn shop.
I consider my Stihl 025 & 250 saws to be a lot more powerful. One is 16 X .325 and the other is 18 X .325. They are essentially identical except for the rounded top cover on one and the flippy caps. But these homeowner Stihls are a lot faster than the homeowner Homelites I had.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Xv64428-1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/Xv64428-1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/jamesirl/Gb90274-1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jamesirl/media/Gb90274-1.jpg.html)
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Just had a poulan pro 295 farmhand come in on trade and a poulan pro 260. No chains on either. Havent looked them over yet. Will grab pics later.
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Great psi pulling over.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/pp295260ms311005_zpsd18032d8.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Mac805PP260/pp295260ms311005_zpsd18032d8.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/pp295260ms311001_zps791c2232.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Mac805PP260/pp295260ms311001_zps791c2232.jpg.html)
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The air filter bolts were backed out some aka making air filter fit loose. Besides that rotted fuel line like normal is all I can see without pulling muffler.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/pp295260010_zps836c2bda.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Mac805PP260/pp295260010_zps836c2bda.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/pp295260006_zps62087564.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Mac805PP260/pp295260006_zps62087564.jpg.html)
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I like these saws.......always run and start good.....just some spring issues.....
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poulan 295 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Poulan%20Pro%20295.pdf
http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/poui/poui2000_usen/poui2000_usen__530088792.pdf
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpro295chainsaw.pdf
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thanks saved in my files
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530069342 clutch drum spur 325.
When I get this project done with new lines etc. I am thinking I want to go 3/8LP stihl 63PS chain with 16"
Ideas on which models drums I can use off hand? Before I start doing trial and error later.
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This one maybe? Appears to.
Replaces OEM:
GB: PA475-R6N
HERR: 266-M6
Poulan: 952-048115
REF NO: SPA475-16N
Fits Models:
HUSQVARNA 36, 41, 136, 141, 235E, and 240E
Jonsered 2035, 2036, 2040 AND 2041
PARTNER 350, 365 and 405
Poulan 255, 295, 2500, 2600, 2750, 2775, 2900, 3050, P600, PP210, PP295 and 2150
Specs:
Crank Diameter: 10 mm
Drum ID: 2.500 "
Pitch: 3/8 LP
Teeth: 6
Bearing included
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pretty sure you can get a a 3/8s drum and bearing i put one on my 2600 and im pretty sure it will fit the 295...... runs same bar and chain that go on my lil poulans cuts nice.....
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Kevin, I put PS3 on my 295 with a 16" bar and it's like a light saber. The rim drive above is correct for that saw, I did have to buy a pico rim from Stihl. It was the only lo pro rim I could find for that small spline and it's 7 pin.
Pm your addy to me and I'll send you a rim, I think I have a few.....
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I thought the Stihl Picco rims were a proprietary size and wouldn't work on the Oregon small 7 spline drums. If they'll work, then I'll be picking up a couple rim drive drums for these, along with some Stihl Picco rims....
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AFAIK the little Stihl rims are still odball
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The 6T LP I posted above was a spur drum. Least I think it was. Would have to check again.
stihl mini or stihl small you guys stalking about? I wouldnt think a mini would fit the poulans.
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Maybe folks are talking about the small stihl not the mini. Looks like 7T 8T not a 6T.
joe_indi
To run this chain you could get the 3/8" Picco Rim sprocket kit with 8 teeth sprocket recommended for the MS260. Part Number.1121 007 1040.
More 7T mini http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Sprockets/Stihl/STIHL-RIM-SPROCKET-MS7-375-X-7-TOOTH-PICCO.axd mini Q. Will this STIHL picco rim sprocket fit the Oregon drum spline? A. Thank you for your inquiry. No, this Stihl rim sprocket will not fit an Oregon drum spline. You would need to use the Oregon rim sprocket.
http://www.logosol.com/store/ringdrev-3-8-7-picco-small-stihl-026-036.html
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holmentree
Picco 7 pin mini 7 spline rim kit available. It wouldn't take much to put that rim in a lathe and bore it out to small spline, then cut the 7 spline slots. Might even have enough meat to bore to standard 7 spline.
I got a Picco 8 pin mini 7 spline rim with lots of room for bore mods
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Farmhand 295 has been waiting longer then 3.0 is I looked it over today.
I checked the psi and she went to 135psi easily.
What is norm PSI and MAX RPM on these?
Replacing fuel line etc. Time to eat. Later.
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Also found some rubber button type deal that is about the size of a nickle around. In the carb area. No clue what or where it goes.
Will go see if on IPL.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/poulanpro295chainsaw.pdf
Maybe #20 where does it go? 530036792 Isolator. looks like on bottom of air filter base?
Also number #34 on type 3 pic
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Interesting.
Note:
Illustration may differ from actual model due to design changes
PARTS LIST NO.
PAGE NO.
Chain Saw Model(s):
530088792
Poulan Pro 295
DATE
4/10/03
530083829 -- 8/20/02
Bearing
530016147
Seal
530019170
Assy---Bearing & Seal
530056363
If your saw has the seperate bearing and seal please order both the 530016147 bearing and the 530019170
seal. If your saw has the one piece bearing/seal assembly please order the 530056363 bearing/seal assy.
(Please Note : The different styles will not
interchange.
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I have seen that button before but I just cannot remember where it went. But it does belong on the saw.
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Was under carb area where air filter base is. Just bouncing around. Oh saw is running.
Husqvarna 530036792
CRANKCASE ISOLATOR
Your price: $4.71
Found a pic online.
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Was under carb area where air filter base is. Just bouncing around. Oh saw is running.
Husqvarna 530036792
CRANKCASE ISOLATOR
Your price: $4.71
Found a pic online.
Yep that is it.
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Still havent figured exactly where it goes. Will pull air filter and look tomorrow or some other time.
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I think I remember now. I believe it goes on the end of the anti vibe spring up by the handle.
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I think I remember now. I believe it goes on the end of the anti vibe spring up by the handle.
See #20 and where they are showing it.
(http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0807001-00001.png)
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Roger I dont remember the info you shared about this video. What is the normal psi on these stock? 150?
https://youtu.be/ldnrJDpUSbk
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I'm going to compare with .325 stock to stock with the 2700
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When I modified that last 295 it was in Calif. and stock compression was 150 psi and after the mods it was at a 160 psi.
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grr no tensioner in cover so I could use the 16". Had to go with 20" Intenz bar for now.
I brought it down to a fatter high 12's. Dang thing was in high 13's low 14's before adjusting carb just screaming.
I gave up on the location of that isolator. See no where for it to go. The one place in IPL it shows I dont see how it would help anything.
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This right here is what will make this 46cc a desirable limbing saw IMO. As Roger and Aaron must already know as they seem into these.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2922.0;attach=12986;image)
Figuring the 335 has to be close to same weight as the smaller cc 2700 46cc on same crankcase etc.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2922.0;attach=11487;image)
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I think I have 3 of those 295's.
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I think I am going to go with the 3/8LP drum with spur and 6T over running the 7T reg 3/8 rim. Just because I think I would prefer the 6T.
Clutch drum - POULAN 255 295 2500 2600 PARTNER 365 405 JONSERED 2036 2040 2041 HUSQVARNA 36 41 136 CHAINSAW CLUTCH DRUM 3/8 PICCO NEW 41569 http://www.ebay.com/itm/POULAN-CHAINSAW-255-295-2500-2600-PARTNER-365-405-CLUTCH-DRUM-BOX568-/360546295365?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f23bde45
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Tensioner bar adjuster 530069611
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Interesting.
Note:
Illustration may differ from actual model due to design changes
PARTS LIST NO.
PAGE NO.
Chain Saw Model(s):
530088792
Poulan Pro 295
DATE
4/10/03
530083829 -- 8/20/02
Bearing
530016147
Seal
530019170
Assy---Bearing & Seal
530056363
If your saw has the seperate bearing and seal please order both the 530016147 bearing and the 530019170
seal. If your saw has the one piece bearing/seal assembly please order the 530056363 bearing/seal assy.
(Please Note : The different styles will not
interchange.
Yep. The cylinder and bearing cap set are bored differently for the two types of bearing/seal setups. You have to use the style that the engine was originally set up with (either the separate bearing and seal that sit next to each other...........or the later type with the rubber coated seal that presses over the bearing).
Same with the Husqvarna 36-141 series saws that are cousins to these. Earlier saws in that series have the separate bearing and seal, while later ones have the pressed on setup.
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I think that little isolator just sits between (under) the carb and the case to provide support for the carb. My Type 1 2775 does not have it, and the carb is kind cantilevered out there.
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I think I am going to go with the 3/8LP drum with spur and 6T over running the 7T reg 3/8 rim. Just because I think I would prefer the 6T.
Clutch drum - POULAN 255 295 2500 2600 PARTNER 365 405 JONSERED 2036 2040 2041 HUSQVARNA 36 41 136 CHAINSAW CLUTCH DRUM 3/8 PICCO NEW 41569 http://www.ebay.com/itm/POULAN-CHAINSAW-255-295-2500-2600-PARTNER-365-405-CLUTCH-DRUM-BOX568-/360546295365?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f23bde45
Is pico the same as lopro 3/8 in this instance?
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I think I am going to go with the 3/8LP drum with spur and 6T over running the 7T reg 3/8 rim. Just because I think I would prefer the 6T.
Clutch drum - POULAN 255 295 2500 2600 PARTNER 365 405 JONSERED 2036 2040 2041 HUSQVARNA 36 41 136 CHAINSAW CLUTCH DRUM 3/8 PICCO NEW 41569 http://www.ebay.com/itm/POULAN-CHAINSAW-255-295-2500-2600-PARTNER-365-405-CLUTCH-DRUM-BOX568-/360546295365?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f23bde45
Is pico the same as lopro 3/8 in this instance?
Yes Picco = 3/8LP
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I loaned this pp295 out not long ago as a possible trade was in the works. His dad preferred the husky 350 45mm so I went ahead and rebuilt it for them.
I went to test my saw out to make sure it was as it left. I noticed again that there is a difference in the rear handle angle and throttle trigger. I just dont care for the rear handle and trigger angles and feel at angle in my right hand.
Anyone else notice this?
Going to use as loaner saw or trade for something or sell cheap I guess.
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I never really noticed anything unusual about the handle/trigger. Then again I've had mine for some time and put a fair number of hours on it so maybe I'm used to it.
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I never really noticed anything unusual about the handle/trigger. Then again I've had mine for some time and put a fair number of hours on it so maybe I'm used to it.
Same here.
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It reminds me of the 262's that didnt feel right to me and rear handle angles and trigger.
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I like that muffler mod on the 295.
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That rubber cap fits on the post or stud on the bottom of plastic piece the air filter mounts to, #19 in the diagram, that's where it is on my 2900.
John
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That rubber cap fits on the post or stud on the bottom of plastic piece the air filter mounts to, #19 in the diagram, that's where it is on my 2900.
John
I'll have to give it a look. Thanks.
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That's where I wedged it when I added one to my 2775. It made a big reduction to the carb vibration.
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I loaned this pp295 out not long ago as a possible trade was in the works. His dad preferred the husky 350 45mm so I went ahead and rebuilt it for them.
I went to test my saw out to make sure it was as it left. I noticed again that there is a difference in the rear handle angle and throttle trigger. I just dont care for the rear handle and trigger angles and feel at angle in my right hand.
Anyone else notice this?
Going to use as loaner saw or trade for something or sell cheap I guess.
Hmmmmmm.....
I don't particularly like how these handle either. I prefer to use the 46cc (and 49cc if I can land a good one cheap) engines/intakes in the chassis of the Husky versions. Might have to work out a deal with you for that one as another parts donor...
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I loaned this pp295 out not long ago as a possible trade was in the works. His dad preferred the husky 350 45mm so I went ahead and rebuilt it for them.
I went to test my saw out to make sure it was as it left. I noticed again that there is a difference in the rear handle angle and throttle trigger. I just dont care for the rear handle and trigger angles and feel at angle in my right hand.
Anyone else notice this?
Going to use as loaner saw or trade for something or sell cheap I guess.
Hmmmmmm.....
I don't particularly like how these handle either. I prefer to use the 46cc (and 49cc if I can land a good one cheap) engines/intakes in the chassis of the Husky versions. Might have to work out a deal with you for that one as another parts donor...
Do they feel weird to you on the rear handle and trigger angles? Reminds me of the 262xp on this a bit that I didnt care for too.
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Rear handle/trigger angle. Heavy/crunchy throttle trigger pull. Flimsy spring AV setup. The Husky 36-141 layout fits me better.
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A couple of shots showing the rear handle compared to my 142, and to the G621 clone. It's not radically different - if anything the trigger may engage earlier (more vertical vs pulling up further into the handle).
The 142 certainly does feel different do to the less flexible rubber A/V mounts. The trigger on mine has less effort than the 2775, but the 2775 doesn't feel crunchy.
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Mine just feels weird in my hand and the trigger feels weird engaging too. Just not comfortable in the hand and natural like all the other saws I have ran.
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The 295's feel ok for me. I have not noticed anything unusual about them. I still have 3 of them.
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For me it's the trigger pull/angle and the spring AV. Not terrible, but not what I prefer. I mostly run 1/2-series Huskys, and the 36/41 feel like 'mini' 2-series saws in my hands. Just what I'm used to.
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Roger you have any video of your 295 saws in the cut?
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Roger you have any video of your 295 saws in the cut?
I can make one.
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Roger you have any video of your 295 saws in the cut?
I can make one.
Found one in thread page 4.
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I had to laugh at myself I forgot about that one.
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I had to laugh at myself I forgot about that one.
Me too :D
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I don’t normally buy plastic saws. But the parts market is good right now on the 46cc. Poulan 295.
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I still have my PP 295 that I used in that video on page 4. I still get it out and use it. It just runs well and is very dependable.
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Mixing in some better old muffler 99 stuff onto the 05 newer.
46cc newer don’t use 3rd support bolt.
But it has one now.
Not bad inside. Needs new kit and line.
Will get updated to echo 3x5 though.
Somebody was asking me about the fulcrum height.
For running 3x5
Little trick I do if I can’t reach the angle line fed in with curved long forceps
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Just got back to button up carb etc. she lives.
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Not oiling for crap. Seen air bubbles. Seems common issue. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulanpro-295-and-4620-oiler-problem/msg90343/#new
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Info in oil pump thread on 295 fix.
She oils now.
Still hate the to soft top right antivibe on these. Just need a stiffer spring av there.
Carb rebuilt. New echo 3x5 line. Older better side exit 2700 muffler.