Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Welding Shop => Topic started by: tommyhnavix on February 09, 2012, 08:13:31 pm
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Anyone have information about welding chainsaw parts?
Aluminum, Mageneseum, or alloy of both??
Wonder if this stuff would work?
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/
What have you used or tried?
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It could be any number of alloy depending on the brand and age .Stihl uses a type of die cast that has a certain amount of magnesium in it .Older Homelites might be all magnesium depending on the model .
I don't have a heli-arc rig so I really don't know but what few I've had welded the welder just experimented with different filler rods until they found the right one .
My buddy Ron owns a repair shop .Good machinest ,good welder ,lousey electrician . Works out well for both of us . ;)
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Anyone have information about welding chainsaw parts?
Aluminum, Mageneseum, or alloy of both??
Wonder if this stuff would work?
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/
What have you used or tried?
Another thread with some info http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/welding-cylinders-to-fix-them/
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3000 FPS you are into this welding now with good results. Anything you want to share?
3000 FPS sent me a note that he cant do pics etc for another 2 weeks with internet he is on right now for posting here. Thanks for info. 8) ;)
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I have a Miller Tig welder and have been doing some magnesium welding on chainsaw parts. I have welded various parts from clutch covers to crankcases. I have welded I believe about 12 chainsaws as of this time with some pretty good results.
So here is what I am doing. First off I am not using any kind of aluminium rod and it will not work at all. The rod I am using is magnesium and is so close in composition that when the welding and finish work is done you cannot see the difference in the two metals. The magnesium rod I use is called AZ92A.
The tungston I am using in the torch is 2% ceriated 3/32 in size. I like using this because it takes less amperage to get the arch going. I use the 3/32 size because alot of chainsaw parts are not very thick and it does not take much amperage to weld. I have found that it takes much less amperage than aluminium.
I usually set up the Miller tig welder just like I am going to do aluminium but it uses less amperage which is controlled either by foot on by a thumb control. I am also using 100% argon gas.
I also have found that sand blasting the part first cleans it pretty good and helped to eliminate contamination. Chainsaw parts get soaked in oil and it is very hard to eliminate all of the contamination. So if while I am welding and I run into a bad section I will stop and clean the area again with a stainless brush and then re-weld it again. I have done this up to 3 times on some parts that I have welded on to get rid of the contamination and to get a good weld. If it is a crack I am welding together I will weld it from both sides.
Another thing I have found is the torch needs to be held closer to the part to keep a good steady arch going. In some cases if the part is thin and on an edge I will use a backing material that will not stick to the magnesium. This will keep the puddle from falling away.
So here are a few before and after pictures.
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Here is picture of a hole punched in the case from the chain adjuster. I know that alot of you have seen this many times. I also checked this with water to make sure it would no longer leak. I had to weld this 3 times before I eliminated all the leaks.
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One more set of pictures. This is a clutch cover from a J-red 670 that had a crack in it. I also included a picture of my welder in case you wanted to know what I was using.
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I tell you if I would have thought about it and known before I did all my redneck fixing in the past you would have got alot of my stuff. I rednecked a 330 where bar adjuster punched through oil tank, 3750 case where it was cut for bow bar, 475, 415 broken rear av mounts. 2 **** 272 covers.
Maybe someday if the rednecking gives up the ghost.
Also Thank You for getting back and sharing your welding of these parts with us. 8)
Kevin
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I just picked up another 335 that has a crack in the side of it where the bar studs come through and is now leaking oil. When I get around to splitting the case and welding this up I will post the before and after pictures of it. I like picking up these saws because they are usually very cheap and require more labor then parts to repair.
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I have 2 inner dawgs on poulan 505 saws that are broke in the thin area in the middle now. Seems like a weak area IMO. Wondering if it is feasible to weld dawgs back together?
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The spikes are up around 45 Rc hard
You could stick weld them with low hydrogen rod. But I would try to get them hot, up around 500 degrees first and then post heat them after welding and let the cool slowly.
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Can you post a picture of the spikes showing where the break is.
I have 2 inner dawgs on poulan 505 saws that are broke in the thin area in the middle now. Seems like a weak area IMO. Wondering if it is feasible to weld dawgs back together?
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Can you post a picture of the spikes showing where the break is.
Also if you need help on quoting post you might want to read this. Has 2 different ways to do so. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/general-discussion/%27quote%27-not-working/msg12353/#new
I'll get you you some pics later today I hope. Up to my neck in breakdowns right now to fix. :-\ :'(
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I remembered ;D There is no way I would try using my stick welder on this.
inner poulan 415 425 445 475 505 jonsered 2077 2083 small dawgs.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/36cccraftsman505dawgs002.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/36cccraftsman505dawgs003.jpg)
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Oh I am sure I could do those on my Tig welder. If you would like it is not a problem.
Roger
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Oh I am sure I could do those on my Tig welder. If you would like it is not a problem.
Roger
I bet you could too.
Jacks shows they are still for sale and not NLA like I thought.
Out of curiosity I went to Jacks small engines and I can still get new for $5 a piece 8) 8). I guess I will just add some to my next big order to absorb the $7.99 shipping. PN# 503424101 SPUR $5.00
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I bet you could too.
Jacks shows they are still for sale and not NLA like I thought.
Out of curiosity I went to Jacks small engines and I can still get new for $5 a piece 8) 8). I guess I will just add some to my next big order to absorb the $7.99 shipping. PN# 503424101 SPUR $5.00
Wow you cannot beat that. You could not even ship them to me for that much.
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Put this [quote ] words here and [ /quote] Put what you want quoted in middle of those.
Then it will look like this when done right words here and
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Ok I will get it, just a matter of time before I make all the mistakes and I find out the right way.
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For those of you who may interested in welding this is an 8500 crankcase hit by a chain. I wanted to show this because it can demonstrate how an edge can be built back up by using a material behind it that will not stick to the magnesium while welding. If you do not do this with thin castings such as on this saw it will just fall away when the puddle forms.
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Good work
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Thanks, it takes alittle bit of work to get the final result but well worth it to me.
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Nice !!!
Your welding work makes me want to tear ALL of my rednecking apart for your PRO repairs.
I'll be patient though and wait for them to fail or whatever. Way in the future I hope and we will both be on retired street by then. ;)
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Are you going to fix that grinded on case for the bowsaw repair? I'd like to see that one before and after big time. ;D
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Are you going to fix that grinded on case for the bowsaw repair? I'd like to see that one before and after big time. ;D
Yes I want to fill that in so that it looks like a bow never existed on this saw. The plan is to fill the entire area with rod and not try and cut out a piece to fit in there. The casting is pretty thick at that location on the saw and it should make for alot easier welding. We will see, and I will show before and after pics.
Roger
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So here is the second part of welding on the 8500 case. You can see in the before and after pictures that there was a bow on this saw at one time. I wanted to make look like it never existed. This was done with a backing material and just ran a bead along the edge unitl it I got it built up. I did this from both sides so that there would be enough material to shape when done welding.
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That is so sweet 3000 FPS. 8) 8)
Some day my 3rd TA will need that fix if I keep it around. Why someone in Ga ran a bow bar on a 3750 is beyond me.
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So I have this Poulan 3700 with a broken handle. I weld it up get it looking real nice put it on the saw and get all the screws in except for the one that goes to the antivibe. I put it in last and I am cranking down on it and I hear this loud snap. I look down and I **** the handle again except it was only on the top and not on the bottom. So I decided to weld it again with it in place. I then take it back off and finish it up once again. I did not do such a nice finish the second time around but when I put it back on no more problems. It will just have to do for now. I got to impatient with it.
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There just no substitute if you're going to repair any alloy of aluminum or mag for a heliarc rig .They try with MIG but often that doesn't cut the mustard .
Steel ,cast iron if you know what you're doing you can stick it or gas it depending .Some stainless can be sticked also depending .
Now like myself .I've got one old Forney buzz box at the house .Two gas engine portables at the shop .One 1940 model adjustable core Lincoln ,a 400 amp Westinghouse retifier,one Dc -MG set and 3 sets of torchs .Not one freakin heliarc rig so I'm out of the aluminum stuff .--got buddies though --- ;)
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You are right Tig is really the only way to go because of the AC setting that you use it on and the precise control of amperage.
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Nice 8). Wouldnt have figured it would have held in that lower area of handle. Good Job once again.
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This was a ad at the top of a forum I was reading on. What do you guys think?
http://aluminumrepair.com/land/index.asp?src=google&gclid=CLSXoLHt0rQCFYw-MgodRl4AhA
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I don't think a regular propane torch will melt that solder?
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I don't think a regular propane torch will melt that solder?
Click on the 6min video in top right hand corner of the page.
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Well we all know that magnesium is flammable and hard to put out once started. The argon gas on a Tig welder is what helps to prevent it from catching fire plus it prevents oxidation from the oxygen in the air. If you get a piece of magnesium hot enough with a torch what is there to stop it from catching fire and how can it be stronger than welding with a Tig and argon gas if there is oxydation occuring in the weld.
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They were using Mapp gas on the thin stuff. On the automotive cylinder head they had something big like a rose bud for a torch. They have the Mapp gas at most hardware stores as well as the torches. Mapp gas is in a yellow tank.
If you've ever seen a magnesium fire you will be very scared of it. I used to melt a lot of scrap aluminum in a foundry and occasionally would get a piece of magnesium in the pot. There would be a big flash (like a photo flash bulb) and it was gone.
This stuff has been talked about a lot in the model airplane glow engine forums and seems to work great on the die castings.
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Sorry guys I meant this for aluminum fixes only and realize I posted in the mag welding part now.
There was a thread about welding on cylinders somewhere.
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Ok sorry I did not know you meant it for aluminium.
I saw this demonstrated some years back at a swap at I was at one time. If I remember right the flame had to be at just the right distance and heat range to get it to work and flow real nice. It would take some practice but I can see it working. The other thing about aluminium is that you have to clean the surface real good because of oxidation. The oxidation actually takes more heat to get through then the aluminium itself. So you have to clean it well enough to get ride of the oxidation. I use a stainless steel brush because once again a regular steel brush will contaminate the weld. I think scotch brite works well too. Hope this helps.
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I wanted to show a before and after of a weld job on a Poulan 3750 Tim Allen. The area where the chain adjuster sits was broken out because the clutch cover got tightened down on it. A lot of the welding was done from the back side.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4397;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4399;image)
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Here is a picture of the saw all back together and ready for cutting.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4401;image)
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I wanted to show a before and after of a weld job on a Poulan 3750 Tim Allen. The area where the chain adjuster sits was broken out because the clutch cover got tightened down on it. A lot of the welding was done from the back side.
I had a 330 I bought for parts like that. I think they put bar on, missed the bar adjuster and pushed it through case when cover was tighten down. I rednecked it and put the saw back into firewood service. So far good to go.
Now you know the welding I want to see, is that other TA that had bow saw on it. Before / After pics pleaseeeeeee ;D
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It is coming I have the saw all tore down and the case split. All I have to do now is get out to my garage and weld it.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4403;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4405;image)
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Here is another weld job that I did on a Poulan 3400 clutch cover. The part that holds the chain adjust in place was broken out.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4407;image)
This is after the welding was done. The dark areas are JB Weld that I used to fill in some small shallow pitting.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4409;image)
This is how I managed to keep the hole in place for the chain adjuster while I welded it.
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Good job
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I do not remember if I ever showed this weld job that I did on a Husqvarna crankshaft that was broken on the end where the c-clip goes.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4413;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4415;image)
When the welding was completed I duct taped the piston to the counter balance of the crankshaft and then turned it on my lathe to get the groove for the c-clip back to the correct width.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4417;image)
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I have a 372 crank that is broken like that.
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I have a 372 crank that is broken like that.
Well now you know it can be fixed.
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This is the clutch cover on a 306A that is **** where the bucking spike attaches. This is pretty common and I have seen it quit a bit. On the back side you can not see I pressed a nut into the cover so a screw can now be put in to hold the spike in place.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4427;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4429;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4431;image)
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Good clean repair
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Well I finished up the welding on the 3750 that was pictured above. There was a gap between the crankcase and clutch cover where someone ground it out to fit a bow bar.
I have been collecting parts for this saw for quit awhile now so I should be good to go and can start cleaning everything up for re-assembly.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4435;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4437;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4439;image)
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Nice work 3000 FPS.
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Nice work 3000 FPS.
+1000000000 Better then I ever imagined Roger. Dang :o
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Hey srcarr52 I know you have done some nice welding how about posting a few examples.
Like some of the bar welding and repair that you have done and I know you have done some magnesium welding also.
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Nice work 3000 FPS.
+1000000000 Better then I ever imagined Roger. Dang :o
I am starting to get excited about getting it together now. Thanks.
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Hey srcarr52 I know you have done some nice welding how about posting a few examples.
Like some the bar welding and repair that you have done and I know you have done some magnesium welding also.
I have a few videos of welding mag cases and welding up the rails on bars on my youtube channel. Here are some pictures.
372, ground out the top of the transfer port. Excuse the arc blow marks, I did this with a sine wave tig.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/371%20Build/IMG_0800.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/371%20Build/IMG_0800.jpg.html) (http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/371%20Build/IMG_0804.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/371%20Build/IMG_0804.jpg.html) (http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/371%20Build/IMG_0849.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/371%20Build/IMG_0849.jpg.html)
288 exhaust flanges are not normally this tall.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/288s_12-12/IMG_1975_zpsb46ea6a4.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/288s_12-12/IMG_1975_zpsb46ea6a4.jpg.html)
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Excellent. I bet that was a tight spot to get into and get that filled back in. I also like the idea of adding material to the exhaust flange so that it could be cut out larger.
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2100 being resurrected.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2317_zpsb0d199d4.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2317_zpsb0d199d4.jpg.html)(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2328_zpsde396bd7.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2328_zpsde396bd7.jpg.html)(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2358_zpsc6c3134d.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2358_zpsc6c3134d.jpg.html)(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2335_zpsd9a38bc1.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky%202100%20R2D/IMG_2335_zpsd9a38bc1.jpg.html)
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Excellent. I bet that was a tight spot to get into and get that filled back in. I also like the idea of adding material to the exhaust flange so that it could be cut out larger.
I've cut 394 cylinders all the way back to the cylinder wall and filled in till the next fin to straighten out the exhaust port and have a very tall outlet. The exhaust was only a little larger.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky394XP_4-2-12/IMG_1390.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky394XP_4-2-12/IMG_1390.jpg.html)(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky394XP_4-2-12/IMG_1388.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Husky394XP_4-2-12/IMG_1388.jpg.html)
Here is a bar that got built up with hard facing rod for a larger stihl 13 tooth tip instead of the original oregon 12 thooth.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/42in%20BarRefurb%20for%20Whiskers/IMG_1852.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/42in%20BarRefurb%20for%20Whiskers/IMG_1852.jpg.html)(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/42in%20BarRefurb%20for%20Whiskers/IMG_1850.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/42in%20BarRefurb%20for%20Whiskers/IMG_1850.jpg.html)
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Thanks for posting srcarr52 those are some very nice examples. I have the rod for welding on chain saw bars but have not tried it yet. I really do not have the equipment for cutting the groove back in them. I know you made one yourself like a lot of other things that you do. Nice work.
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srcarr52 That is some nice welding. Gets my Holy Crap applaud. (http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q132/oddsey/Smiley%20GIFs/Applause.gif) (http://media.photobucket.com/user/oddsey/media/Smiley%20GIFs/Applause.gif.html)(http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q132/oddsey/Smiley%20GIFs/Applause.gif) (http://media.photobucket.com/user/oddsey/media/Smiley%20GIFs/Applause.gif.html)
I had a dolmar 166 exhaust port that was (looks like JB was used and raised). Nice seeing your idea.
Dont think you can see it in pic though. Might if you look between fins where filled in.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/Copyof166Dolmar004.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/Copyof166Dolmar004.jpg.html)
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Well here is another weld job. The possibilities seem endless. This is a handle on a Poulan 3700.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4487;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4489;image)
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You are a real artist with that stinger
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Agreed with above. Sweeeeeet work
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Thanks guys. I have one coming up that is a clutch cover for a Solo Rex. I will show before and after.
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Thanks for posting srcarr52 those are some very nice examples. I have the rod for welding on chain saw bars but have not tried it yet. I really do not have the equipment for cutting the groove back in them. I know you made one yourself like a lot of other things that you do. Nice work.
Thanks! You're welds makes mine look like chicken scratch and they are getting progressivly worse. I'm going to have to give my welder a look over and see whats up. What are you using for a welder, tungston, size, ect?
Having the groove grinder certainly opens up a new world of possibilities. I buy a lot of bars cheaply because they are 58 gauge and grind them to 63. Someday when I get a Husky mount Tsumara lightweight I'll have to grind it to 63 on day one since they only come in 58, WTF?
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Srcarr52 I posted a picture and a description of what I am using in post 4 and 6.
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Here is another crack in a clutch cover, for I think a 8500.
I had a lot of trouble with pitting when welding this one. I think the casting was not very good and seemed to be very porous.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4506;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4508;image)
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Use a little Sputty on it before painting?
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I usually just fill in the pits with JB Weld.
I know some of you have seen pictures of this before but I wanted all my weld jobs in one place.
This is a Poulan 395 that I could not find a chain brake for so I took the clutch cover and cut the top of it off and then welded in all the holes that were left behind.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4510;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4512;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4514;image)
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Roger, did you end up welding that crack in that thin part of that 272 clutch cover I traded you? Wondering can that thin be done.
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Roger, did you end up welding that crack in that thin part of that 272 clutch cover I traded you? Wondering can that thin be done.
No I have not welded that yet but that crack will not be a problem. I will do it after I am done with the 3750.
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Here is another crack in a clutch cover, for I think a 8500.
I had a lot of trouble with pitting when welding this one. I think the casting was not very good and seemed to be very porous.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4506;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4508;image)
With a crack of that size you'll have troubles getting the oil and oxidized material out of the crack. Ditch cut the crack until it's very thin and just commute to having the backside look terrible.
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srcarr52, you are probably correct. It seemed like everytime I put the tig to it that another pit popped up out of no where. Someone will have to use some JB Weld for filler.
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Here is another weld job on a Wright blade saw that had a piece that was broken completely off. The saw was restored by the owner and turned out very nice.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4584;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4586;image)
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Great welding job's , i have to find the right welding rods here in the Netherlands more and more i hit a snag on broken parts out here ::)
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Spark plug thread repair. Someone even stripped the save-a-thread.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Stihl%20066_6-23-14/IMG_3249_zpscf6b2743.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Stihl%20066_6-23-14/IMG_3249_zpscf6b2743.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Stihl%20066_6-23-14/IMG_3258_zpsba85aa3c.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/srcarr52/media/Stihl%20066_6-23-14/IMG_3258_zpsba85aa3c.jpg.html)
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Awnsome job done there, thanks for sharing
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I am glad you showed that. I do not believe I have ever seen anyone weld a plug hole before and cut in new threads.
Not to mention what could be an expensive cylinder.
Nice job.
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Sweeeeet.....1st for me to see done too.
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I am glad you showed that. I do not believe I have ever seen anyone weld a plug hole before and cut in new threads.
Not to mention what could be an expensive cylinder.
Nice job.
I did the job so save a friends profit margin. I think I'll get the porting done on it tonight/tomorrow. It should be a good runner... I doubt he'll sell it after I get done with it.
I have a 2100 cylinder to do the same thing on when I get time. Next time I'll switch to a smaller torch (not the giant 300 amp 18) so I can get my first past a little cleaner. I had to reach down into the cylinder with a long collet cup and blend in the camber side basically by braille as I could not see anything.
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Repairs look great. What are you using for filler on the mag? Case (side cover) repairs?
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I am glad you showed that. I do not believe I have ever seen anyone weld a plug hole before and cut in new threads.
Not to mention what could be an expensive cylinder.
Nice job.
I did the job so save a friends profit margin. I think I'll get the porting done on it tonight/tomorrow. It should be a good runner... I doubt he'll sell it after I get done with it.
I have a 2100 cylinder to do the same thing on when I get time. Next time I'll switch to a smaller torch (not the giant 300 amp 18) so I can get my first past a little cleaner. I had to reach down into the cylinder with a long collet cup and blend in the camber side basically by braille as I could not see anything.
So your saying that you welded that from both sides. That is impressive.
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Repairs look great. What are you using for filler on the mag? Case (side cover) repairs?
The rod is AZ92A.
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Thks. I've always used 91a, any meaningful difference between the two? Adam
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Thks. I've always used 91a, any meaningful difference between the two? Adam
I do not know since I have always used 92A and it always seemed to be a good match.
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I was just looking at the spec sheets on the two rods and it looks like there is a difference in the composition between the two.
The AZ92A would be considered more of a general purpose filler rod for magnesium.
I know that SRCARR52 is pretty knowledgable in this area also.
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Ok thanks. What type of Tig do you use?
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So your saying that you welded that from both sides. That is impressive.
Yes, I had to to get a good finishing inside the chamber. Luckily I had a bunch of long gas cups from welding cylinder heads back in the day.
I was just looking at the spec sheets on the two rods and it looks like there is a difference in the composition between the two.
The AZ92A would be considered more of a general purpose filler rod for magnesium.
I know that SRCARR52 is pretty knowledgable in this area also.
I use AZ92A. I think, but don't quote me, AZ91A is more for sheet/billet mag where AZ92A is supposed to be better for cast and die cast like we are always welding.
Ok thanks. What type of Tig do you use?
I have a Lincoln Ideal Arc 300. It's old, sine wave, no cool features except high frequency start so I don't have to scratch start. It does have a water cooled torch which is awesome. A newer square wave with AC balance would work much better but this works for now.
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Good deal! I have the same 300 Lincoln I use mainly for steel, great old machine! Really nice arc down low for thin material. Miller Aerowave I use for alum/mag. I'll try some of the AZ92
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What I have is a miller synchrowave. It does not have square wave either but it does have high frequency.
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roger, wondering if you ever decided to build the foot up on the 306a clutch cover you swapped me? i truly love to see a craftsman's work. i can only dream.
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No I never did anything but I still have it somewhere packed away for now.
I have a Stihl crankcase half right now I need to get to that had an ear where the bucking spike attached broken off.
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Yesterdays lineup. Left to right, 2150 stripped ex bolt holes, 066 broken ex flange from tree crush, 2100 failed spark plug thread fix with pipe section, 372 failed spark plug thread fix with save a thread.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/670d8b0e-84a5-493a-adff-9e10e0e0c9da_zps86f487de.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/013c0361-8004-4e28-9ab2-f4e0f0f7523e_zpsb9fc8a9a.jpg)
Inside the chamber of the 372.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3568_zpse9e46a14.jpg)
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Nice. 8)
Must be nice to have the skills and equipment for this type of stuff. WTG.
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Nice welding job. Especially the spark plug holes those always impress me.
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Nice work!! What torch are you using for the chamber?
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Nice work!! What torch are you using for the chamber?
20 flex, with an extra long cup.
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Good deal. Any thoughts on the 140 amp micro torches?
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Good deal. Any thoughts on the 140 amp micro torches?
Probably too small, I was running around 200-240 amp. I was on high ( not max ) of a 300 amp welder WOT sometimes. You really have to put some heat into these cylinders as they are designed to dissipate heat.
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just wanted to say, that is some awesome welding folks!
on occasion, from year to year i have to inspect heavy steel welds at work, can appreciate the workmanship you folks bring with both aluminum and mag.
you guys make it look easy.
regards
-joe
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This is a bracket for the handle on a Poulan 361.
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Nicely done!!
Adam
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Thanks Adam.
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Nice, I would have figured a part like that was done for. Good to know you got it covered.
So your up and welding again at the new place?
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Nice, I would have figured a part like that was done for. Good to know you got it covered.
So your up and welding again at the new place?
Yes I am starting to get some room in the big garage again. The welder is working great which makes it so nice when doing these parts again. I have another Poulan 3400 with a broken handle on it. I believe it will be the third one I have done like this.
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A few recent welding saves.
066 tree crush victim.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3647_zpsc947c51c.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3650_zpsf9c8c0e3.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3651_zps7cd68752.jpg)
394 AV rubber snubber.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3648_zps8fb41a32.jpg)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Misc/IMG_3652_zps46f3e88b.jpg)
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Nice work!
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Nice welding +1
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Looks good now comes the fun part. The drilling tapping and shaping the weld.
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just saw this post.
the 361 bracket is now orange and happily residing on a Wright 136. thanks much Roger. great job.
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just saw this post.
the 361 bracket is now orange and happily residing on a Wright 136. thanks much Roger. great job.
I did not know it was going on a Wright. Do you have any pics of it.
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sync 250 is a nice machine, used to work w/one... have 200, does the job for me @ home...
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sync 250 is a nice machine, used to work w/one... have 200, does the job for me @ home...
Thanks. When it is working right I really like it.
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Video of welding a Solo clutch cover.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSnqScEAOjY&feature=youtu.be
FIXED LINK TOO
http://youtu.be/RSnqScEAOjY
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Nice work on that clutch cover. The final product turned out great. Once that cover gets powder coated no one would ever know it was ever broken like that. I like seeing saws like that being restored and put back together.
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Video of welding a Solo clutch cover.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSnqScEAOjY&feature=youtu.be
Very cool
Fixing embed link.
Welding up a busted out clutch cover for an old Solo Twin chainsaw that is destine for a complete restoration with every part powder coated. The part is magnesium, probably die cast and like most cast mag parts, probably a pretty dirty alloy. Using AZ92A filler and a Lincoln Tig 300 welder.
http://youtu.be/RSnqScEAOjY
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You cannot weld those things up with out a little bit of pitting.
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You cannot weld those things up with out a little bit of pitting.
There is no way I could ever get all the pits out, you notice how there are two distinct lines of pits on the outside, one was the heat effected zone of my first pass into the base metal the other was my second pass to blend and help tapper onto the base metal. I do this so there isn't a distinct line where the new material meet the old, hopefully making it stronger in the long term.
If I was painting it I would have tried another couple of passes to fill in the majority of the pits, but since it's going to be powder coated and it was well known it'd need some filler I left it alone with my first pass so I wouldn't have to sand any deeper into the original material to blend everything back in.
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Well you did an excellent job Shaun.
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outstanding work
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[img http://(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/Aclarke123/Mobile%20Uploads/20151104_182802_zpsafa4wka6.jpg) (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/Aclarke123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151104_182802_zpsafa4wka6.jpg.html)/img]
044 bar plate repair. Owner of this saw had a real issue with throwing chains. Cut al the way into the adjuster pocket and the bar plate area wasn't flat anymore.
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[img http://(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/Aclarke123/Mobile%20Uploads/20151105_064826_zpsfsvrspbn.jpg) (http://s1184.photobucket.com/user/Aclarke123/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151105_064826_zpsfsvrspbn.jpg.html)/img]
Ground down to clean metal, then "sweated" out some of the oil soaked area with Mapp gas then cleaned with solvent. Still very dirty! Lol
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Havent seen one that chewed up yet. Nice work.
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Looks good Adam. It sure was chewed up.
Looks like you took the raised portion the bar sat on down level also. Are you going to just use a spacer for it.
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Saw was a mess ,Oregon faller saw.
Only took. .001-.002 off so it won't be a problem with alignment.
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Saw was a mess ,Oregon faller saw.
Only took. .001-.002 off so it won't be a problem with alignment.
I gotcha now I was looking at it wrong before.
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Oh I am sure I could do those on my Tig welder. If you would like it is not a problem.
Roger
I bet you could too.
Jacks shows they are still for sale and not NLA like I thought.
Out of curiosity I went to Jacks small engines and I can still get new for $5 a piece 8) 8). I guess I will just add some to my next big order to absorb the $7.99 shipping. PN# 503424101 SPUR $5.00
They are NLA now. Just to update.
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For those of you who may interested in welding this is an 8500 crankcase hit by a chain. I wanted to show this because it can demonstrate how an edge can be built back up by using a material behind it that will not stick to the magnesium while welding. If you do not do this with thin castings such as on this saw it will just fall away when the puddle forms.
So here is the second part of welding on the 8500 case. You can see in the before and after pictures that there was a bow on this saw at one time. I wanted to make look like it never existed. This was done with a backing material and just ran a bead along the edge unitl it I got it built up. I did this from both sides so that there would be enough material to shape when done welding.
Good evening Roger, could you give me a couple of tips on there,
one:
what kind of material is that you are using for this backing?
two:
what kind of magnesium filler do you use for them, one of the member her Srcarr52 says he is using AZ92A filler for Solo twin cover in his video.
Thanks in ahead,
Chy
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Yes AZ92A is the same filler that I use on all the magnesium chainsaw parts I have welded.
For a backing I use any kind of metal that the magnesium will not stick to. I have used some mild steel and some sheet metal. I have also used a steel rod.
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Yes AZ92A is the same filler that I use on all the magnesium chainsaw parts I have welded.
For a backing I use any kind of metal that the magnesium will not stick to. I have used some mild steel and some sheet metal. I have also used a steel rod.
Thanks Roger, placing a backing plate sounds very nice to me. Will have a try on this method. Also appreciate this information on the filler. Will make some report when I made some try.
Chy
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Roger I placed a couple of inquiries to local manufactures here before noon, one of them replied that they have AZ91A in their stock, but 92A. According to their illustration 91A contains more aluminum than 92A, and this makes the filler harder and easier to melt. But the price is amazing, nearly 20 bucks per piece. wow!
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Yes the filler rod is not cheap. I have not used 91A so I do not know how it will flow and blend with the cast mag used in chainsaws.
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Yes the filler rod is not cheap. I have not used 91A so I do not know how it will flow and blend with the cast mag used in chainsaws.
Thank you Roger, Shaun taught me he was able to get them for reasonable price either on Amazon or eBay, so tried and found Amazon selling 'Blue Demon ERAZ92A' for 100 some bucks per pack(nearly some 30 rods). Another seller on eBay sells this for $41.09, but an anxiety is that this manufacturer Blue Demon is an Mexican maker, and some guy leaves a negative feedback like "extremely poor in quality", though it's for flax....
Have you ever tried this 'Blue Demon ERAZ92A' ?
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Yes the filler rod is not cheap. I have not used 91A so I do not know how it will flow and blend with the cast mag used in chainsaws.
Thank you Roger, Shaun taught me he was able to get them for reasonable price either on Amazon or eBay, so tried and found Amazon selling 'Blue Demon ERAZ92A' for 100 some bucks per pack(nearly some 30 rods). Another seller on eBay sells this for $41.09, but an anxiety is that this manufacturer Blue Demon is an Mexican maker, and some guy leaves a negative feedback like "extremely poor in quality", though it's for flax....
Have you ever tried this 'Blue Demon ERAZ92A' ?
The Blue Demon rod I have not used. The rod I have came from a welding shop in California. I would have to go look at the label to see who made it.
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The Blue Demon rod I have not used. The rod I have came from a welding shop in California. I would have to go look at the label to see who made it.
Thanks Roger look forward to hearing from you who made it. Chy
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The Rod I have was made by.
Washington Alloy Co.
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The Rod I have was made by.
Washington Alloy Co.
Good morning Roger, thanks. PDF file here;
[attachimg=2]
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Good morning, a TIG welder Hitachi made Inverter Pair 300GP came to me just one hour ago this morning, which is a refurbished one done at a local dealer.
Not very cheap but she does either direct current or alternative, with inverter controlled pulses. I think I should get a tube of argon and a good helmet next.
Chy
[attachimg=1]
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You are diving into this !
Looking forward to watching your progress Chy
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You are diving into this !
Looking forward to watching your progress Chy
Yep it seems!
Thanks, hope these setup help me make some more progress.
Chy
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Washington Alloy also has a spec sheet on the AZ92A. Mag rod
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Looks like a square wave invertor. That should work good.
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Been busy with job, but yesterday had time to make a ruck for the welder, have already drawn a design with a CAD last week.
[attachimg=1]
Shelf plates in the middle and the top are cantilevered, so that work around the welder will be easier. But welding was not very easy job to me, since the bars tend to lean after corner welding on each of the jointing points, distortion! Tried to avoid distortion by adding/applying back plate to keep the right angles.
[attachimg=2]
Painted it in yellow, which I love most amongst many colors, for a machine to be used for my chainsaw, lol.
Chy
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Nice work Chy and the yellow looks good.
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Nice work Chy and the yellow looks good.
Thank you Roger, but yet can not afford a tube for argon, a large one for 7 square meters is not very cheap here. Cant wait too long ! lol.
Chy
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Roger, sorry I overlooked these couple of informative posts.
Washington Alloy also has a spec sheet on the AZ92A. Mag rod
Yes I am watching one, says "Shielding Gas: Argon is preferred. Argon-Helium mixtures may be used but Helium alone will cause a lot of spatter and arc turbulence."
But seldom see this mag rods from the Washington Alloy on the net, even this site(Amazon) doe not show AZ92A, but AZ61A instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy/pages/11457532011
When I put the key words like 'Washington Alloy AZ92A' on Amazon site, it shows one with the title 'B06XP17F4L'. The spec shows this comprises of a lot of mag, e.g. 89% Magnesium, 8.5% Aluminum 2.0% Zinc, Traces of Manganese, Copper, and Nickel.
But I can not see any word ' AZ92A' on this page. why?
On the other hand, the most frequently coming is that from Blue Demon,,,,
Looks like a square wave invertor. That should work good.
I think you mean the Hitachi's Inverter Pair that I lately got, don't you Roger?
Chy
p.s.
Found a spec sheet at the makers site,
http://www.weldingwire.com/Images/Interior/documentlibrary/magnesium%20alloys.pdf
which tells
their AS92A has;
Mag : Remainder
Al : 8.3 to 9.7 %
Zn : 1.7 to 2.3 %,
while their AZ61A has;
Mag : Remainder
Al : 5.8 to 7.2 %
Zn : 0.4 to 1.5 %.
So the one I quoted above, which has been appeared on the Amazon site with the title 'B06XP17F4L' seems to be very close to AZ92A.
But the price they say is odd to me, they say
"Price: $9,999.99 & FREE Shipping ", no way! hope it's a joke!
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Yes I am referring to the wave form that your welder is capable of putting out. Square wave as oppose to sine wave.
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Yes I am referring to the wave form that your welder is capable of putting out. Square wave as oppose to sine wave.
Thanks Roger, and what is your presumption to the price of the rod above?
Chy
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Yes I am referring to the wave form that your welder is capable of putting out. Square wave as oppose to sine wave.
Thanks Roger, and what is your presumption to the price of the rod above?
Chy
I have no idea since you live where prices may be completely different from here in the States.
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Yes I am referring to the wave form that your welder is capable of putting out. Square wave as oppose to sine wave.
Thanks Roger, and what is your presumption to the price of the rod above?
Chy
I have no idea since you live where prices may be completely different from here in the States.
Thanks Roger, yes it's the price on your side, but only wonder if that 9999.99 bucks for the rods is a reality!?
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I see what your saying. https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L
On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that is out of stock. That way they dont have to pay to relist it later. Just my WAG
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I see what your saying. https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L
On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that is out of stock. That way they dont have to pay to relist it later. Just my WAG
Thanks Kevin, funny to me is that the terrible price was gone from this site, lol. I shot email to Washington Alloy on this but they do not reply yet, may be they do not have this in their inventory....
Chy
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-----------This was done with a backing material and just ran a bead along the edge unitl it I got it built up. I did this from both sides so that there would be enough material to shape when done welding.
Good evening Roger, hope everything is going well with you.
I wish you could give me some tips on this 'backing material', remember you have posted that you used copper or something for this. Today I tried mag welding for the first time in my life, lol, and used a strip of steel bar for this but failed.
This was it, a clutch cover from McCulloch 300.
[attachimg=1]
To its half way the puddle and bead were both keeping its way(not very good though, lol), but from 3 quarter the last part fell off!
[attachimg=2]
My presumption is that this backing steel bar sucked excessive heat to the point it melts the mag. I should have used much bigger sheet....
So a better way could be using rather thick sheet metal which has greater heat conductivity than steel.
After this I had to rebuild the wall again with some filler rod.
[attachimg=3]
Your tips on 'How to use backing heat sink plate' will be very much appreciated, thanks in ahead.
Chy
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Sorry did not see this earlier. I was in New York on Holiday.
First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner on both sides.
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help prevent that falling away.
For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand blast it.
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You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it back up to the length that you need and the shape it with various tools. Do not worry about what the weld looks like as long as you have enough material on it to shape it.
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First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner on both sides.
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help prevent that falling away.
For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand blast it.
--------------------------------------------------------
You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it back up to the length that you need and the shape it with various tools.
Do not worry about what the weld looks like as long as you have enough material on it to shape it.
Good morning Roger, thank you for your tips. These help me a lot!
As far the heat control I am posting a setting conditions for amperage here below.
[attachimg=1]
I use 50A for the welding pulse current, to where the mag alloy is thicker than 2mm,
if it's thinner than 2mm use 35A.
In case of filling holes or rebuilding walls on the mother material, use 25A.
Any tips should be appreciated on this, thanks again.
Chy
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The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
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The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy
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The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding. So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me. That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy
The arc from a Tig welder is not green and just appears that way through the welding lens. The Welding helmet I have is a auto darkening with an adjustable setting for how dark I need it. The arc on mine does not appear green.
Also the arc from a Tig welder is very strong and will sun burn any exposed skin very quickly. So cover your self when welding good.
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Good evening Roger, I have one more question on mag welding, thanks!
Posting here is a McCulloch 740 for which I made a tuned pipe previously,;
[attachimg=1]
but this saw came to me with some cracks and missing parts, e.g. it's upper shroud has a couple of cracks so gave it some stitch with copper wire before I got this TIG welder, (nearly threes years ago).
[attachimg=2]
I did another try on this yesterday with mag welding, and got some more questions about the way to rebuild new walls on mag surface.
[attachimg=4]
Unexpected trouble to me in this job was happened to the several holes I made for the stitch which may be seen in the above pic.
Usually as far steel sheet, I place the mother material horizontally when I try to close little holes. So did the same way but in this case the melted mag alloy did not stay around the edges of the holes and fell off from the holes no matter I minimized the arc current as small as 15A.
So instead of placing the holes horizontally, I tried vertically as shown in a drawing below, and was able to do it.
[attachimg=3]
Do you rebuild mag walls to up-ward vertically? or place the material horizontally and rebuild the walls in flat horizontally?
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Yes Chy that is a good point. Sometimes you do need to hold the piece your welding on in a vertical position so the puddle will not run off but stay and cool.
You are getting the hang of it. Good job.
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Yes Chy that is a good point. Sometimes you do need to hold the piece your welding on in a vertical position so the puddle will not run off but stay and cool.
You are getting the hang of it. Good job.
Good morning Roger, your words gave my way a good light to show the right direction to go, many thanks!
Chy
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I do not remember if I ever showed this weld job that I did on a Husqvarna crankshaft that was broken on the end where the c-clip goes.
----images---
When the welding was completed I duct taped the piston to the counter balance of the crankshaft and then turned it on my lathe to get the groove for the c-clip back to the correct width.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=737.0;attach=4417;image)
Roger, it's also an amazingly good job! very impressive to see,
and appreciate it if you could give us some tips on this job please!
1stly, the filler material you used for this job:
This spring I tried one for McCulloch 740 crankshaft at its clutch end with oxy-acetylene blow pipe using soft steel filler rod, but failed.
Now thinking of rebuilding it with TIG, but your pics here may tell if you have used some special filler rod for this job....since it is known that crankshafts are fabricated with cast iron.
2ndly, the welding position of the shaft you did this job:
Should we better place the shaft on in vertical position when we work on the terminal? than placing this shaft on in horizontal.
Thanks in ahead.
Chy