Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: John Mc on September 15, 2020, 10:05:50 pm

Title: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: John Mc on September 15, 2020, 10:05:50 pm
Any good tricks for replacing a broken clutch spring in my 357XP? I've not had to mess with one of these before. I imagine there must be some tricks to make getting it in easier.

Also, if one spring broke, is it better to just replace all three while I'm in there?
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 16, 2020, 07:48:39 am
357 359 work shop manual link https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwix_cjfy-3rAhXabc0KHZTbCR0QFjAQegQIAxAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHusqvarna-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FW0001003.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2jhkZFRlaNngyvEHrHfONB

Best to replace all 3 as set.  I have done only 1 on my own saws before and didnt notice anything different.  But you could if other two wore out bad or been over heated.
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: John Mc on September 16, 2020, 08:33:55 am
Thanks Cut4fun. That's very helpful. I did not have a shop manual.

I was wondering if my snap ring pliers would be helpful in getting the springs back on. Looks as though that is the recommended practice.

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 16, 2020, 08:59:33 am

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.

Look in the husky 346 oil leak section here. There was a update and fixes for those types in a thread.   I had one like that I was doing for a local and fixed.
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: ray benson on September 16, 2020, 10:33:00 am
Thanks Cut4fun. That's very helpful. I did not have a shop manual.

I was wondering if my snap ring pliers would be helpful in getting the springs back on. Looks as though that is the recommended practice.

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.
Link to a shop manual
http://www.mediafire.com/file/e7drpb50jhbrwu5/file
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: John Mc on September 16, 2020, 10:49:37 am
Thanks Cut4fun. That's very helpful. I did not have a shop manual.

I was wondering if my snap ring pliers would be helpful in getting the springs back on. Looks as though that is the recommended practice.

I don't suppose you have a shop manual for a Jonsered 2152, do you? That thing has leaked oil since it was new. I keep thinking I'm going to tear into it and find out the problem, but just haven't gotten around to it.
Link to a shop manual
http://www.mediafire.com/file/e7drpb50jhbrwu5/file

Thanks!
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: John Mc on September 22, 2020, 06:12:40 pm
I got the clutch springs replaced. What a pain in the neck those little buggers are!

As I pulled that off, I realized the sprocket was getting to the point where it should be replaced. No problem, I keep a spare. I pulled out the spare sprocket I had in my box of parts. No dice: the ID was larger than the splined shaft on my clutch drum. So I checked the parts manual Cut4Fun sent me. It called for a Husqvarna part 501 59 80-02. None of the stores nearby me had one, so I ordered a couple online. This is supposedly the equivalent of the Oregon 68210, a 3/8, 7 tooth standard spline, and the Oregon site confirms that the 68210 should fit the 357XP.

It appears I actually need a 3/8", 7 tooth, SMALL spline, since the ID of the sprocket is about 3/4". (I did get it used, and have been using it for years now. I guess the previous times I replaced the sprocket, I must have just brought them to the saw shop and said "give me one of these".)

So did some Husqvarna 357Xp saws get made with a different set-up, or do I have a saw that has been bastardized over the years.
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: Spike60 on September 23, 2020, 07:22:59 am
John, the 357 could be ordered with a .325 set up at one point, and that explains the small spline drum. For the first few years it's Jonsered cousin the 2156 was offered it was ONLY available in .325. The different drum also requires a different oil gear should you ever need to replace it. The 3/8 was far more popular on these saws and they eventually stopped offering them that way. But set up with an 8 pin .325 they were pretty quick. There is an updated oil pick up line for those saws. Just put one in a 357 myself yesterday.

Sometimes using OEM part numbers on common parts like rim sprockets or bars causes confusion in shops, because nobody has the stuff inventoried that way. You looked up a legitimate part number, but the shop might be speaking a different lingo and say they don't have them even if they have plenty. Funny, but sometimes a guy will call my store and ask if I have a part number and they think I'm nuts when I say I don't need a number just tell me what you need. After this many years, it's all in my head. LOL
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: John Mc on September 23, 2020, 08:16:11 am
Thanks, Spike60. There are no REAL Husqvarna dealers near me anymore, just the hardware stores who carry the lower end & mid level stuff. The only parts the carry are chains, a couple of bars, and spark plugs. The old timers who really knew their stuff have either passed away or closed up shop. The last servicing dealer nearby was a John Deere dealer, and apparently the corporate gurus forced him to switch to Stihl. This was too bad for him, because there is already a gold-level Stihl dealer at the Kubota/New Holland dealer about a mile away who is VERY good. Bad for me because I now have a 70 minute round trip to get service or parts (if I need the parts faster than mail order).

When shopping locally, I had both Husqvarna and Oregon part numbers, AND I brought the part I had removed from the saw with me. The Stihl dealers didn't have the size. The local Taylor Rental used to be a Jonsered dealer, but has switched over to Echo. They still service Jonsered and other saws. They had the right size, but it was some aftermarket junk. I bought two to have a spare. When I got them home, the both had so many burs and zits on the from the manufacturing process that one would not slide on the shaft at all, and the other would go on if I forced it, but was such a snug fit that it would not float on the shaft. That's when I went to mail order, but made the mistake of going by the part number, rather than measuring.

I'm guessing that new oil pick up line is the same, regardless of the drum and oil gear used, is that correct? My 357XP is currently oiling OK, but it has started to weep a bit of oil when stored (not as bad as my Jonsered 2152). What do I ask for if I want to get the new line? I'll likely have to get it online, so probably need a part number to search it out.
Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: Cut4fun . on September 23, 2020, 10:24:03 am
I showed what you ran into on 346 thread.  I used to switch them back forth myself to be able to run what I wanted. 

Thread on it. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/346-353-etc/msg78515/#msg78515

Title: Re: 357XP Clutch spring replacement
Post by: Spike60 on September 23, 2020, 09:52:06 pm
The improved oil line wasn't a real big deal. All they did was add a couple of extra ribs where it seats in the case to help it seal better. But over time, even they will sometimes need to be replaced. The catch-22 with these lines is that they are more likely to shrink/harden and lose their ability to seal if they are stored dry. So what happens is that a leaking saw will get stored dry so it doesn't make a mess and if it sits a long while the leak just gets worse. I'll get you the part number when I get in the store tomorrow afternoon. Kevin may have the service bulletin; he has just about everything. Same oil line goes on your 2152.

Your dealer situation happens more often than you think. Heck, in a few years I'll be one of those old timers that's not there anymore. I thought it would be cool to dial it back a bit, but you really can't do that. Be nice to say we're getting rid of all the 4 stroke stuff or I'm just going to work 2-3 days. But you'd get killed on those couple days and still have the same amount of shop work which you couldn't possibly do in those 2-3 days your there. When the time comes.................:)