Author Topic: 15x30x7  (Read 1262 times)

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Offline aclarke

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15x30x7
« on: January 31, 2014, 12:46:23 pm »
Any recommendations for jred820 crank seal sources? Stuff I've found online appear to be of questionable quality. Any Husky or other saws use this size that are available from dealers?

Also, any thoughts on viton double lip seals as an "upgrade" to the Buna seals for Saw cranks would be appreciated.  Adam

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2014, 01:16:52 pm »
Warning I know nothing about older jreds. 

Found a repo seal, is this it?   Jonsereds Crank Seal: 504 14 62-00, 504146200, 504 146200, 504 12 62 00

New reproduction part.

This crankseal fits models: 49sp, 50, 51, 52, 52E, 52 E, 521 E, 521EV, 601, 621, 66e, 70, 70e, 751, 80, 801, 90, 910, 920, 930, 810, 820, 830

http://store.chainsawr.com/products/jonsered-chainsaw-crankshaft-oil-seal-loc-box-x
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Offline aclarke

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2014, 01:57:49 pm »
Kev, that's it.  Thank you!  Anyone runs these aftermarket seals? Just curious on quality?

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2014, 02:06:01 pm »
All my other spots where dead ends. So good luck.
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Offline fossil

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2014, 08:01:05 pm »
I bought 15X30X7 single lip seals for my 801. I think they were National seals. The OEM seals were single lip. There are double sealing lip seals but they are made in a few select sizes. Almost all of the double lip seals have only one sealing lip and that is the inner one. The outer lip is a dust seal. They don't seal any better than a single lip seal. I haven't heard of anyone who had an issue using single lip seals without the dust seal lip on a chainsaw.
Viton is supposed to last longer than nitrile but is stiffer and is not near as forgiving if you have any radial run out.
Most of the nitrile seals that originally came with the saws have lasted many years. Some over 30 years old so I stick with the plain nitrile replacement.
If I can get new aftermarket seals I will buy them instead on NOS. You don't know how the old seals were stored and they could have most of the life gone out on them through deterioration. I am hesitant as you seem to be to buy seals if \I don't know who made them. There is lots of questionable stuff coming out of China.
Tim

Offline aclarke

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2014, 10:59:14 pm »
Thank you


Offline aclarke

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2014, 09:06:57 pm »
Looks like the one!


On a slightly different bearing topic, on a stihl Saw with their propriety pto side bearings, couldn't a standard bearing be used with the inner and outer seals intact? In other words, run the bearing with its own grease lube, not two stroke mix.  I know of a few husky being run with "closed" bearings with no issue. Adam

Offline 660magnum

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2014, 09:12:01 pm »
My experience with the pre-lubed, sealed bearings, most of the grease leaves the bearing the second you start the saw. The seals on the bearing do not hold pressure vacuum like the separate spring loaded seal.
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Online 3000 FPS

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Re: 15x30x7
« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2014, 09:13:11 pm »
Looks like the one!


On a slightly different bearing topic, on a stihl Saw with their propriety pto side bearings, couldn't a standard bearing be used with the inner and outer seals intact? In other words, run the bearing with its own grease lube, not two stroke mix.  I know of a few husky being run with "closed" bearings with no issue. Adam

That is one question I would not have a clue on.   
Running a saw at 13,000 rpm with a closed greased bearing sounds iffy to me after a few years of use.
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