Author Topic: Jonsered 111s  (Read 2400 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #20 on: January 26, 2013, 02:45:39 pm »
The ultimate timing position you are looking for is to have the points break at 22 degrees before top dead center.

To accurately do this you will need a degree wheel, a volt-ohm meter, and a feeler gauge.

You are going to need to have an idea of the relationship of the crankshaft Key way to the top dead center position if you are going to do this with the flywheel removed?

The volt-ohm meter or even a self powered test light is required to know just when the points break.

The feeler gauge is to set the point gap in order to have the proper coil saturation dwell time.

You will need a piston stop to use with the degree wheel to find top dead center. I have been successful in determining TDC with the degree wheel attached to the crankshaft alone without piston stops and all that jazz. Just determine the center of the dead zone at the top of the compression stroke by feel.

If you need a degree wheel, there are many on the internet that you can print out and glue to a piece of card board, metal, or plastic that will work very well for this purpose. I can give you links if necessary?

If all this is getting too complicated for you, just set the points at .010" and put the timing marker on zero. Don't worry about the rest if it runs good . . .
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Offline Peter Davies

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #21 on: January 26, 2013, 05:42:35 pm »
OK, if I trial fit the flywheel, there is a dimple on the top which is at 12 o'clock at TDC. There do not seem to be any marks on the casing to line things up with? The nearest mark, to the left of the TDC, would be about 30 degrees before TDC; the mark on the bottom of the flywheel would give about 12 deg after TDC if placed at 6 o'clock. The keyway is about 60 degrees from TDC, but is really hard to judge. Will look for degree wheel; will be back if no success. If I read you right, one can set the crank up using the flywheel, but you can't move, or secure, the back plate with the fly wheel in place?? Thanks. Peter Davies

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #22 on: January 26, 2013, 06:05:47 pm »
I've made a error in my discussions with you relative to the point gap. The spec is .3 to .4 mmn which is .012" - .016"

I don't know if if you are a inch or metric man or if it even makes any difference to you. It wouldn't to me.

Most old chainsaws have a window in the flywheel that is over the points adjustment when they are at their widest point? If not, remove the flywheel and set the point gap at their widest position.

If the key is good in the flywheel, the timing hasn't changed.

If the point gap is between .3 and .4 mm and the spark plug is good and set at .5mm - it should fire. If not, I would suspect capacitor first and coil second?
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Offline Peter Davies

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #23 on: January 27, 2013, 12:38:20 pm »
Don't worry about metric/imperial; I do both but feeler guages are in thou.

There is no window in the face of the flywheel. Even if there was, there is a metal cover over the points mechanism.

I can't just set the points because I have had the backplate off to replace the wire from the on/off switch. (not much insulation left on the wire. It could be the cause of the no start problem)

When I come to set up the make/break, there is still a circuit even with the points open; it is grounding through the coil. The coil appears fine; it is wound from the metal former, so it would ground.

To set up the points gap with the ohm meter, I would need to disconnect the coil.

The other way to do it would be with a cigaret paper between the points; rotate the back plate until the paper will just withdraw. That is the way we used to do cars with distributors.

Is the capacitor the black lump behind the spark plug?

Are sets of points available? I think the heel of the cam follower might be badly worn. This could effect the gap setting. The most imortant facor would be the make/break at 22 BTDC.

What about installing the recoil cord? Is it six turns around the pulley and an extra one to pre tension?

That'l do for now, thanks

Peter Davies

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #24 on: January 27, 2013, 01:15:14 pm »
A chainsaw that big, I would want to use the 4.5 mm double braid Dacron polyester pull cord. I fill the starter pulley up but not so full that it will jam.

Your idea of using cigarette paper and it slipping out is probably your best bet.

I've never seen the chainsaw so I don't know about the capacitor?  One bridge that needs to be crossed is that fact that it may have some electronic device added to make the ignition work?

If it is a pure points and coil magneto ignition, there is going to be a capacitor or condenser across the points somewhere?
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Offline Peter Davies

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #25 on: January 27, 2013, 05:02:34 pm »
Hi there,
saw is 111s, looks like the one in your video. Attached is photo of contact breaker assembley/

cheers

Peter Davies

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #26 on: January 27, 2013, 05:17:40 pm »
I see the capacitor on the left side of the picture where the wire from the coil connects. It can be tested with a ohm meter actually if it is isolated.
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Offline Peter Davies

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #27 on: January 27, 2013, 07:59:18 pm »
when you say you see the capacitor, are you talking about the white component, lurking under the black lead, at 9 o'clock? If so. that is a plastic terminal block. Guess this saw is not the same as yours?? Your's are probably newer?

Attached, photo of black lump behind spark plug. Is this a coil, or capacitor?

Peter Davies

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #28 on: January 27, 2013, 08:10:04 pm »
There's two coils - there's a trigger coil shown at the bottom of this picture


And the main coil shown as the big black thing in this picture that has the high voltage spark plug wire on it. One of those small wires goes to the off-on switch?


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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Jonsered 111s
« Reply #29 on: January 27, 2013, 08:57:44 pm »
This Jonsereds 111 follows a lot of convention of how many other chainsaws were made in that time period.

I think I've found the capacitor or condenser being as you said what looked like the condenser is just a insulated terminal.

Usually the condenser is located beside the points but in this case, I see it beside the big coil above the carb.

There are three wires on the big coil. One goes to the points and trigger coil, one goes to the capacitor, and one goes to the off-on switch.

The other wire on the off-on switch should go to the chainsaw crankcase metal somewhere. 
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