Author Topic: McCulloch oil pump problem  (Read 7981 times)

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Offline brokenbudget

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #30 on: April 08, 2013, 06:51:48 pm »
don't give up on it. they are very good little saws and worth while keeping around. for a little reed engine, they turn some good revs and make some nice torque for their size. these saws were built with top quality parts and were way ahead of what was out at the time. keep an eye out for an oiler, order one of those grommets in the link i provided and keep at it.
new old stock oilers come up on ebay often enough, so keep an eye out there aswell.
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Offline qwerty12

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #31 on: April 08, 2013, 07:07:20 pm »
Yes. exept this freaking oiling problem the saw i realy nice thing. Here in my place people most use stihl and husquvarna.

me muself to have a huski and regardles of the fact that huski is far more popular here around these two cant compare.

huski crankcase is plastic MaC crankcase is aluminium. metal can last forewer. otherside on the huski screew bolts go off like hell

kuski is piston intake macc reed walve which is much better. smaller fuel consumption...no fuel spitting outside etc

huski has ball bearing on the crankshaft macc has needle bearing and those can take much more force

macc has much more advanced transfer and exhaust ports timing, bigger compresion ratio.

and lot of other things macc has beter than huski (talking abouth old models low price saws non exprert dont hawe those)

only smal thing that better on huski is spring shock absorber. macc has rubber nuts. maybe I have tigtened mine too much buth when cutting it vibrates like hell.


Buth all asumed mac is much better than same old age huski.



the only thing that does not any good is that damn oiler thats driving me insane  :'( :'( :'(

Offline qwerty12

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #32 on: April 09, 2013, 05:47:40 am »
When setting the carb on this saw can anyone tell me on which rpm max to go on full trottle when not cutting? Is 10 000rpm ok or to much?


Or should I just press full trotle and turn H screew until I got biggest rpm and than slightly turn it to the anticlockvise?

Is there anny good online manual how to set chainsaw carb correctly?

Offline 660magnum

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #33 on: April 09, 2013, 06:07:58 am »
"just press full throttle and turn H screew until I got biggest rpm and than slightly turn it to the anticlockwise?"

I like to have them four stroking at full throttle without cutting and running free - Then when in the wood they two stroke.
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Offline qwerty12

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #34 on: April 09, 2013, 08:17:08 am »
do you mean that when the saw is little richer on non cating full trottle whan cating it wil be little leaner?

Offline brokenbudget

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #35 on: April 09, 2013, 08:32:07 am »
tune it until wide open to get a burble. the burble should go away when you start cutting. remember, the reed saws have a bit of a different sound than a piston port engine.
if i remember right, 11500-12000 was a good spot, then if you want, you can fine tune it to the color of the plug.
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Offline qwerty12

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #36 on: April 09, 2013, 09:40:28 am »
I wont it to tune a little bit les than that 12000 does not metter if it cuts slower the engine will last more if mixture is slight richer than ideal.

Offline qwerty12

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #37 on: April 09, 2013, 11:54:30 am »
tried with thinner gasket tried with gasket 999 grey mas...nothing works. damn oiler


assamgled saw today totally, and was cutting some trees today  ;D

made a wide can tut it on place near trees and fill the can with oil. diped a tip of blade inside press trottle slightly till all chain is drauning in oil. and made cutting. and oiling afther every limb. Worket that way il finished with trees, spent 2 reservoirs of fuel.


Tomorow I will try to add a botle of oil on the side of saw and connect the botle with crankcase hole that drives to the chain. oil should with natural decline go to the chain. if that works will cut. and if not works wil continue to cut with a can of oil nex to me and afthe each cut dip the blade and oil it manualy.


Cant fight with that oil pump annymore took me 7 days of time and did not repaired it.

Offline brokenbudget

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #38 on: April 10, 2013, 09:27:53 am »
now that you've stopped the oil from going into the engine you now need to get that 'other' checkvalve working.
you can take a can of lubricated carb cleaner with the spray tube and blow it into the inlet side of the oiler. like i said, there is another checkvalve. and you can't get to it so you might as well not bother trying to pry anything apart. you can't get to the inlet checkvalve without destroying the oiler.
by 'thinner' gasket, do you mean thicker gasket? a thicker gasket was what i was telling you to use.
you may have a no oil issue now if the sealant you used is blocking any ports.
when I grow up, i wanna be an adult.

Offline dutchsawdoctor

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Re: McCulloch oil pump problem
« Reply #39 on: April 12, 2013, 01:35:38 pm »
Here a ipl of your type pump

http://ersatzteil-zeichnungen.wmv-dresden.de/documents/Mc%20Culloch/PM%20364,%20PM%20374,%201993-01,%20serial_03_motorsaege%20McCulloch%20-%20Oelpumpe%20von%20unten.pdf

What i do in your case is step by step testing the valve's ( with a fuel -line on your mouth ) and put it in sunflower-oil to see it it leeks  ;)
Best regards,Saul
Dolmar  Stihl Solo Husqvarna Homelite Ole-mac Echo Jobu Ridgid Poulan Remington Pioneer Partner ,Danarm stanley
more chainsaw repairs Oldtimer-Motorsägen  http://pily.strojevlese.cz / http://www.sauls-kettingzagen-site.nl

 

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