Author Topic: PM 605 hard starter?  (Read 805 times)

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Offline Rich73Kelly

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PM 605 hard starter?
« on: September 08, 2015, 03:04:12 pm »
As I stated last week, I would start new threads with my saws disabilities .... so, here, first, the PM605 ... I bought this saw at a pawn shop last spring for $50.00. It started a little hard there but started and ran so, I took it home. It is a damn good running saw once I get it started !!! Is it something internally with the saw or, am I trying to start it wrong? First, I am left handed so, I probably DO start the saw different than most. With the saw sitting on a flat surface, I choke it and start pulling. I can pull and pull 20, 30 times, turning the choke off and back on and once in a while it will fire but, won't stay running. Once it does start and gets warmed up, it will run all day ... even after running out of gas, I just pull a time or two and it fires right back up.
  Now, this isn't funny ... after taking pictures to post here, I read the starting instructions below the switch. "3 Activate throttle latch" ??? Do I need to give it throttle while it is choked to get gas in the chamber ???Is this all I am doing wrong?
Can someone give me some input here? Are they stubborn to start or, is there something I can tweak?
Apparently, the size of my pictures is too big. I will look for a pinned post on resizing photos but , for now, in case there isn't one,  "total size 2700KB, maximum individual size 337KB" ... my photo edit program resizes in megapixels. How does one convert 337kb to megapixels? I am using Adobe Photoshop Elements.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2015, 09:21:29 pm »
Check valve diaphragm is stiff from old age .Lets the gas dribble back out of the carb if it sits for a while .Rebuild it,cheap less than 10 dollars .FWIW I had to rebuild the carb on one of my PM 610's only lasted 25 years before it went south . ;)

Offline Rich73Kelly

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2015, 10:50:27 am »
Al, are the kits still available? If so, where would I look? How do I locate the carb #?
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2015, 03:27:06 pm »

Apparently, the size of my pictures is too big. I will look for a pinned post on resizing photos but , for now, in case there isn't one,  "total size 2700KB, maximum individual size 337KB" ... my photo edit program resizes in megapixels. How does one convert 337kb to megapixels? I am using Adobe Photoshop Elements.


IMO just upload pics to a free photobucket account and it resizes automatically. Then just copy and paste the IMG code here for pics to show.   www.photobucket.com

For embedding I just set my editing software to 72 and make pics about 8x10 using megpixels too. Thats seems to put them in the 180KB range.
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Offline Rich73Kelly

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2015, 02:42:02 am »
If we can't fix it, IT ain't broke!

Offline Eccentric

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2015, 04:51:41 am »
It's probably just your starting technique.  The instructions on that decal are a bit lacking...

Yes you have to set the throttle lock.  Squeeze the trigger, pull the little black nib sticking out of the top/front of the rear grip rearward, then release the trigger.  The throttle latch should then stay set until you pull the trigger again.  Be aware that when the engine starts with the throttle lock engaged that the chain will start moving.

Pull the choke and the pull the rope repeatedly until you get the first 'pop' from the engine.  Do NOT pull again after that 'pop' with the choke all the way out or you will flood it.

Push the choke in 1/2 way and then pull the rope repeatedly until it starts.  Ease in the choke the rest of the way, release the throttle lock with a pull of the trigger, and keep the engine running with slight 'blips' of the throttle until it warms up.

Being left handed shouldn't matter.  I'm left handed and I'd start that saw by holding the handlebar down with my left hand while pulling the rope with my right (with the toe of my right boot on the 'boot plate' at the bottom rear of the saw.

When the saw is hot.  Don't use the choke.  It should restart without the throttle lock......but may require the lock to be set.  The saw is also likely to not be tuned correctly.  That'll make things difficult too....

In warm weather you can often skip the 1/2 choke step during your initial cold start.  Instead, after that first 'pop' at full choke, push the choke fully forward before pulling the rope again.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #6 on: September 12, 2015, 05:12:12 am »
Al, are the kits still available? If so, where would I look? How do I locate the carb #?
I think it most likely has a Tillotson model HU if I recall correctly,yes available.Numbers will be on the side of the carb,might be hard to see .

Offline Al Smith

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2015, 05:26:16 am »
Having used a model 610 for 8-9 years selling fire wood this is what I found .You should periodically remove the recoil and chain guard and blow out the chips that accumulate under the cylinder .Because it will stop the air flow from the fan and if ran long and hard on a shutdown the ignition model will fail .

Once it cools down,like 45 minutes it will start but until you could pull your arm out of the socket and it will never start .

Also because it uses a diaphragm,impulse type of oiler they eventually could leak which will draw chain oil into the crankcase .Given enough time this will carbon the screen and clog the ex port .If it isn't too bad you can still run it but be on the look out for a new pump which could be from 25 to 45 bucks new .I just pulled the screen .These things often sell so cheap you can find one for parts for less than the price of the pump .

Offline Eccentric

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #8 on: September 12, 2015, 03:01:18 pm »
Many of these had Walbro HDB carbs.  K10-HDB is the kit for them.   Some had Zamas.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Rich73Kelly

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Re: PM 605 hard starter?
« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2015, 04:04:05 pm »
Aaron (Eccentric) well, ruled out starting technique .... I set the choke, set the throttle lock, pulled and pulled ... couldn't get that first pop ... checked the plug, a bit damp but, not wet ... I am now curious if some moisture might have got in the tank ... it has bee quite humid the past couple of weeks ... maybe I should even consider getting a NEW plug! Does someone recall what the recommended plug and gap are ? It has like, a U8JY or something close to that now ... Is it possible the flywheel or coil contacts are rusting and weakening the spark ??? I am not sure if these are similar to a conventional lawn mower engine.
Al, I am still not ruling out carb issues ... Would it be wiser to replace or, rebuild?  Either way, I would need to find the parts. According to the manual I found online two years ago, the 650 was the only one with a Walbro (HDB-7A) and the rest have a Zama C-25. I haven't had the saw far enough apart to look so, I am not sure if this info is correct. I don' know of an impulse oiler either, as you can see in the photo I posted, the green push button above the power switch is the oiler.
You also mentioned to pull the recoil and chain guard to blow things out ... I did this last year ... Speaking of the recoil, ... is there a sticky somewhere about rewinding them? I took mine off back in the spring because the rope pulled out and wouldn't go back in without taking it all apart .... yup, had to rewind and seat the spring. Untied the rope at the pull handle and restrung it. I don't know how tight to wrap the spring for proper recoil and it still locks with the cord pulled. It's getting to be a royal PITA having to remove it and rewind it every time it decides to do this. I have even found the rope between the recoil and flywheel.
Also, this manual recommends 40:1 fuel mix, is this acceptable or, should I go with like, 32:1?
If we can't fix it, IT ain't broke!

 

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