Author Topic: Swapping Cranks and Cylinders  (Read 3220 times)

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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Swapping Cranks and Cylinders
« Reply #10 on: November 08, 2012, 07:22:49 pm »
All well and good but just how pray tell do you first weld 2" onto a rod and both keep the pins aligned perectly straight and in parrellism with no twist .Those are forged steel as you know .

Secondly just how do you lay two inchs of weld  on a crankshaft without it first warping and not causing internal stesses. Those are cast iron crankshafts made long before ductile or nodular iron was even thought of .If you did use pure nickle rod you'd have a hundred bucks worth of rod on each journal .

At 6 to 1 comp on a 4 inch stroke you'd have approx .8 inch of free space at top dead center .Where does the other 1.2 inch of piston go .It can't go into the head even if you could carve that much combustion chamber out and if you did the top two rings would be in free air because they wouldn't be in the cylinder any more .

Explain to me just how you have enough room in the crankcase to swing another 2 inchs of crankshaft .Not to menton with all this welding how does one redrill the oil holes because the original oil channal hole from rod to main would no longer align being 2 inchs off center .Unfortunately you can't curve a drill in steel like they do hydrafracting for natural gas .

If you drilled straight from main  to rod  the hole would come out  the side of the rod journal .Not to mention you'd break the drill once you hit the weld metal .On that the new journal would only be held by about 1/4 of the base metal connecting it to the crank throw unless you burn another 150 bucks worth of rod per journal building up the throws . Oh sorry I forgot to mention I work in an automotive engine plant and know how crankshafts are made .

So Marty explain away . ;)

 

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