Chainsaw Repair

I met a Pro Carver who is on the Pro tour last week who uses a 371XP to block out, 346XP and 338XPT to carve with.  He picked up my 346XP and was impressed with the power (basic woods ported saw).   Has agreed to buy it if I still have it when he comes back.  He hooked me up with another Pro carver who is sending me two 357XP to build.  The question is these saws run at WOT for hours at the time much different than firewood or logging.  How would you tune these saws any different or set them up on the fat side?  Any other help or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Shep

I tune my carving saws a little rich,  because of the no load rpms. I also like lower rpm saws for carving bars. They have no sprocket tips and they seem to last longer on slower saws. But..... if they are running sprocket bars and using the ported saws for blocking out carvings it might be good.

 I also used my bigger saws saws for slabbing out bench bottoms and table tops. That would be kinda hard on a hot woods port.

anyway, I love my hot rod saws for dropping trees and cutting firewood, but they're not the best setup for carving. Just my opinion.

Troutfisher and I think Holmentree have used saws for carving. Maybe they will chime in for you or PM them.   

Sorry only about a month late here, just caught this
I run my carving saws setup as I would for production logging or arborist work. Run them too rich and your always clearing them out at WOT between cuts.
My favorite for fine detail finishing was my old Stihl 019. not alot of power but very smooth powerband and mistakes are easily avoided. I love the snappy MS200 for the rougher cuts with its accelerator pump carb, very quick from the bottom to WOT.
Then before I got into Huskies my old faithful 044 and 066 did the carving grunt work.
Willard.