Chainsaw Repair

if i had a lathe here i would probably do just that
it just took me by suprise that this top end is that tight. they have been around the .028-.033 normaly after you removed the base gasket. this one the piston hits the top firmly.
however. this is the cylinder and piston i ordered from chainsawr, it said it was from a 2700. i'v only ever had 1 2700 in my hands and it was basicly the exact same saw, however never did even think of taking a look inside at the time, wasn't concerned too. so maybe the 2700 came with a tighter squish than the 2800, maybe the base was cut a little taller on the 2700??
either way, the paper i found will work and i'll get to it tomorrow.

yeah but i gots to be careful of the chrome once it starts flaking on these pistons, it doesn't stop.
besides, i want to set it up as good as possible with unmodified stock parts. the only thing i'm going to do is (of course) remove the base gasket and open the muffler. thats it. then i want to put the larger intake boot and carb on it to see what difference they make (for better or worse). i just want to see how much can be had with the 46cc saw with stock parts.
i know they run very well with just the gasket gone and a muffler mod, but i want to see what the bigger boot and carb will do.

Looking good on the chainsaw

Nothing but mud around here too.

Looking good on the chainsaw

Nothing but mud around here too.

thanks! yeah this is the part of the season i don't like. stuff seems to break more in the mud
and that major is a pain in the arse to get to the diff. who has 2 thumbs and gets to pull a tranny apart next weekend? this guy.

edit: sorry. super major. diff lock wouldn't engage that stupid wheel either. and the pedal seems to be stuck on the floorboard.

i think my 640 has the same distributer. had a good friend thats rebuilds starters and distributers do this one about 5 years ago. just before winter, it started to burn up points and condensors. it would run for 30-40 seconds and then quit. you could clean up the points but the condensor needed to be replaced. had that freaking dist. out probably 6 times before we found it had nothing to do with it. the neg. wire going to the dist. was shorting against the coil wire. shortened the coile wire so it wasn't drooping down and taped up the neg. wire and she ran once again.
of course i noticed she was dripping oil from under in the clutch area after a towed the major back. great, need to do the rear main seal on that when it dries up outside. they're easy. and thankfully cheap.
i'd still rather work on these than a mini mac