Author Topic: Back in Black 3.3  (Read 776 times)

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Offline Tractorsaw1

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Back in Black 3.3
« on: January 13, 2014, 01:34:27 pm »
Well I finally put the pieces together I had rounded up to put this parts saw together.  I think this will be a nice small saw if I get it dialed in the way I want it.  I thought is was going to run ok pretty much in stock form, but I think I need to fix up some things.  I think the carb needs rebuilt, while I could get some adjustment out of the needles, never really got it where I wanted it.  First thing I want to replace is the impulse line.  I stopped at 3 local automotive stores to find reinforced fuel line with a 3/32 id, none had it.  5/32 was as small as they had so first question is what is everyone using?  When I stopped at the stihl dealer to ask about the weed eater fuel line, the guy's dad was filling in for the owner he points to a bucket with pieces of tygoon in it & says there you go, no thanks i say with a smile & leave.  I will try & post up some pictures this evening

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2014, 01:43:24 pm »
You're right to not want Tygon type line for the impulse hose.  Not the right stuff for the application.  Got any Echo dealers around?  The black Echo fuel line is good for impulse tube.  Homelite black or grey fuel line will also work fine.  The Husqvarna 'pigtail' stuff would work except it's a bit large on the ID for the barbs on that saw. 

The back Stihl line will work.................but for unknown reasons some dealers don't stock it (at least in my area).  One dealer (that didn't stock that line) said all the Stihls use machine-specific molded lines.  Well yeah all your current machines may use those molded lines..........but don't you ever service an older Stihl machine that did use 'bulk' line?  Oh well....
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Tractorsaw1

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2014, 01:47:16 pm »
Ill have to look around for maybe an echo dealer.  After he pointed to the tygoon pyle, he said pretty much the same thing with needing to order the special molded lines.  After reading up on this i had to laugh at myself.  Years ago I had a jonsered 920, you guessed it ran great until it half melted the make shift impulse line that would promptly fall off.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2014, 02:05:41 pm »
Back 50 years or so, I used to mold vinyl lines to fit certain model airplane situations.

You would bend a 12 gauge wire in the shape with the twist and turns you wanted and boil it in water for 30 min, then let it cool down in the pan of water to room temperature.

Then remove the wire and the tube was formed in the new shape.

Don't know if this will work on the yellow-green Tygon or not?
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Offline Tractorsaw1

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2014, 02:12:20 pm »
Kinda first for me, this saw had a little small clamp that was up above the barb, not sure why it was there (wasn't doing any good above the barb), but did these saws come with one of those squeeze it type clamps?

Seems the carb kits a little steep for the ol hda-49, i got another carb I'm gonna try out first.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2014, 02:20:39 pm »
Tygon gets very soft when hot. It will swell and contract as a impulse hose.

Viton would be a better choice?

I ordered a impulse hose for my Dolmar 7900 and they sent me 39.4 inches of it. It is very nice thick walled stuff.
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That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2014, 02:39:34 pm »
I'd forgotten the Dolmar line.  Tygon type vinyl line is completely unsuitable for an impulse application because it will fail with the heat.  Rubber line is the way to go.  High temp automotive 'emissions' line works fine if you can get it in the right size.

That saw would have had a small wire spring clamp on the line at the cylinder end.  It probably slipped out of position or was incorrectly installed on that saw.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Tractorsaw1

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2014, 02:50:13 pm »
I'm goin with "incorrectly installed".  I bought this as a parts saw off the bay for $26.  The pictures were not the greatest, but was said to have spark & 140 psi.  I still can't figure out why the chain side av pieces were gone & no screws, no chain catcher, no side tensioner etc.  The saw looked pretty good, the impulse was on at the cylinder but not on the carb.  Someone had pried hell out of the muffler I guess to split the seam, & threw that diffuser in layin on the bottom, you could shake the saw & hear it flop around?  It had the rope replaced.  don't know.

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2014, 03:07:00 pm »
You know I know them part numbers for the stihl dolmar and maybe the echo lines used for impluse lines are in threads some where.

 I think we need to dig up the info and make a Impulse line thread and save it in the how to area.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Back in Black 3.3
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2014, 03:49:15 pm »
You know I know them part numbers for the stihl dolmar and maybe the echo lines used for impluse lines are in threads some where.

 I think we need to dig up the info and make a Impulse line thread and save it in the how to area.


Good idea.  The stock Poulan impulse line on these saws was lousy stuff.  What was on my 330 felt like chewing gum, and the OEM replacement piece was so sub-standard that I went and got some Echo line to use instead.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

 

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