Chainsaw Repair

I purchased a Craftsman 50cc chainsaw new a couple of years ago with the 20" bar and have played with it for a while now. It is a nice unit for the money and is most of the components seem to be reasonably durable.  But to be honest armed with my splined carb tool in my back pocket and after many attempts I have tried to get this saw to where I can bury it into the wood without it bogging the chain down.  It just will not hold enough RPM's to keep it there.  Also there seems to be significant amount of clutch/drum slippage pushing moderately heavy into the cut going on and although it probably is working as it is designed, it seems like a weak link in keeping the high RPM power delivery sustained.  Maybe it is just in my head, but when the chain bogs, the engine still seems to going fairly strong.  Too bad it is a nice sounding power head and has a nice Poulan big saw burble from the engine.  So I have concluded as equipped this saw is not going to power a 3/8" chain with any degree of heavy push into the cut, I am NOT a fan of shorter bars, but a .325-.050 x 78DL setup should be on this unit similar to what came on the Poulan 3300 is appropriate in my opinion.  There is a lot of scattered information in other posts on this chainsaw but nothing which compiles any data on what it would take to get it there, and a list of the components (rim sprocket/drum/bar mount pattern/bar) modification required to get it there as well.  Has anyone performed this modification successfully?  If so what did you use that worked reliably and is using industry standard parts readily off the shelf?  If it was just a matter of finding a correct rim sprocket and a bar with minor mods this would make it simpler I would think.  Maybe I should try a skip tooth chain first and see if it improves things?  Anyone tried that here? 

Pictures of chainsaw when new:       

Thanks- my research with the skip tooth theory has led me to this Oregon loop P/N:

72JPX070G

Same place the internet led me to for that chain, and looks like they have some very good prices indeed. 

Out here in the PNW not much need to cut any really dirty wood so skip tooth option may be the economical choice for me in my attempt at upping the cutting performance of this particular saw.  Lots of things I really like about this chainsaw for firewood cutting, it oils the chain real nice, and after a tank of fuel burned up you are ready for a break.

Gotta agree with 3000 FPS. Too much bar.

But I have to ask. It sounds like you want to muscle the saw through the cut by exerting moderate to heavy pressure.  With a sharp chain that shouldn't be necessary, and you may be expecting more grunt than 50cc can provide. 

The 5020 is K095 bar mount. The husky 55 K095 too.  Remember need to change if the 55 18" bar is 325, if 3/8 your good to go.