Author Topic: Poulan 3450 3750 and PoulanPro 330 380 Tank Vent Retrofit  (Read 1002 times)

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Offline Eccentric

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Interesting.  On my PP330, it only had the one hole for the fuel line (as the vent is on the side of the tank...........in the 'tear half the saw apart to get to it' location).  That hole was in the forward position, while the rearward hole position was marked by a blank circular raised portion of the tank casting.  That's where I drilled the tank for the vent line (after I plugged the original vent hole). 

Methinks you could run the vent and fuel lines in whichever hole you wanted to, so long as the hole size was right.  On a 3400-4000 tank (which has two lines), the vent line hole is larger than the fuel pickup line hole.  That's because the double-barb fitting passes through that hole (along with the line).  It has been many years since I have replaced the lines on a 2700-3600 saw, so I can't remember which hole was larger........or if they were the same diameter.  The larger hole would have been intended for the vent line (for the same reason that the 3400-4000 vent line hole is larger).



You can see my newly installed vent line in the rearmost hole here, with the factory fuel line hole in the forward position. 
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Cut4fun .

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You could but I noticed the 2700 forward hole was bigger then the rear hole.   I'm just talking for folks redoing ones with 2 holes already so they go back right.

They had the fuel line CUT IN HALF using the tank vent plastic nipple ( double nipple was outside in carb area) in front bigger hole.  Then no vent run on the line for tank vent in smaller rear hole.  Open line in and out is what I pulled out.
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Offline Eccentric

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You could but I noticed the 2700 forward hole was bigger then the rear hole.   I'm just talking for folks redoing ones with 2 holes already so they go back right.

They had the fuel line CUT IN HALF using the tank vent plastic nipple ( double nipple was outside in carb area) in front bigger hole.  Then no vent run on the line for tank vent in smaller rear hole.  Open line in and out is what I pulled out.

I had a 3400 come to me with "won't run" written on the rear handle in sharpie.  When I rebuilt the carb and replaced the lines I saw that they had the vent fitting outside the tank (with the duckbill on it) with the other end passed through the vent hole into the tank.  That'd let pressure/fuel out of the tank............but wouldn't let air in.  No wonder it "won't run"......:D
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline 3000 FPS

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You could but I noticed the 2700 forward hole was bigger then the rear hole.   I'm just talking for folks redoing ones with 2 holes already so they go back right.

They had the fuel line CUT IN HALF using the tank vent plastic nipple ( double nipple was outside in carb area) in front bigger hole.  Then no vent run on the line for tank vent in smaller rear hole.  Open line in and out is what I pulled out.

I had a 3400 come to me with "won't run" written on the rear handle in sharpie.  When I rebuilt the carb and replaced the lines I saw that they had the vent fitting outside the tank (with the duckbill on it) with the other end passed through the vent hole into the tank.  That'd let pressure/fuel out of the tank............but wouldn't let air in.  No wonder it "won't run"......:D

That is a first for me, never heard of anyone doing that before.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline Eccentric

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You could but I noticed the 2700 forward hole was bigger then the rear hole.   I'm just talking for folks redoing ones with 2 holes already so they go back right.

They had the fuel line CUT IN HALF using the tank vent plastic nipple ( double nipple was outside in carb area) in front bigger hole.  Then no vent run on the line for tank vent in smaller rear hole.  Open line in and out is what I pulled out.

I had a 3400 come to me with "won't run" written on the rear handle in sharpie.  When I rebuilt the carb and replaced the lines I saw that they had the vent fitting outside the tank (with the duckbill on it) with the other end passed through the vent hole into the tank.  That'd let pressure/fuel out of the tank............but wouldn't let air in.  No wonder it "won't run"......:D

That is a first for me, never heard of anyone doing that before.

Same here.  I wish I'd thought to take a pic or two of it as I found it.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline 3000 FPS

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Yea a picture would have been a great conversation piece.  Still funny as heck.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Online Tractorsaw1

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That was the way that saw came to me.  Hence my posting about the "variety of tank vents".  I new it was wrong, but never tore it down to straighten it out.  Glad you got it squared away.

 

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