Author Topic: Poulan 380  (Read 2085 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2013, 11:12:11 am »
ohiogreggs.

Does yours have yellow tank or black tank like 1st post? Part number difference could be because it is a YELLOW tank and not black like on 330?




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Offline farmboy

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #11 on: July 04, 2013, 01:44:59 pm »
It's Yellow that would explain diff. PN on tank.  Checked the 330 one carb adj screw is covered on it too.  Went and checked my 3450's covered on them too. 
Shep

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2014, 04:57:16 pm »
Poulan 380 PP 380 PP380 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Poulan%20Pro%20380.pdf

Look at the very end of this IPL and check out the bar options for the 60cc saws. Maybe for soft wood cutting.

22" from my experience in hardwood black oak was limits.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2014, 06:31:27 pm »
Jon1212 has some NOS 24" K041 bars that were intended for these saws.  Possibly 20" and 22" too.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2014, 07:02:37 pm »
I've turned down some NOS 24" K041 bars for $15 apiece. Just didnt see a use for them here.

Thinking I was offered a free 22" the other day. Again I dont see a need here.
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Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2014, 07:17:11 pm »
I have two of the 22" bars and never use them.   I like the 20" so that chains can be used on other saws also.
PP 505, 475, 445.

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2014, 07:39:22 pm »
Guy at work was wanting me to set a saw up with 24" on 60cc poulan to buy. I had to keep telling him I really dont think you will be happy in the hardwoods with it. Go 20"  or bigger cc saw with 24". 
I prob lost the sell but I still feel I was right. I told him I could get a 24" in for him to try on the 60cc to try out to see first hand.  But he never took me up on it.

He did ask the other day why his chain keeps dulling right after sharpening. Gave him my thoughts. But never got to ask what saw or bar length.
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Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2014, 08:10:04 pm »
I have to agree with you Kevin, a 24" bar on a 60cc Poulan probably not good unless it has been ported some and the muff modified.
PP 505, 475, 445.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Poulan 380
« Reply #18 on: January 28, 2015, 08:23:38 pm »
Only showing sold 4 year?

PP 380   2001   $400.00   
Engine Make:    Poulan
   
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters:    60
   
Engine Size Cubic Inches:    3.7
Dry Weight:    13
   
Bar Oiler Type:    Automatic
   
Bar Length:    20
PP 380   2000   $400.00   
Engine Make:    Poulan
   
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters:    60
   
Engine Size Cubic Inches:    3.7
Dry Weight:    13
   
Bar Oiler Type:    Automatic
   
Bar Length:    20
PP 380   1999   $400.00   
Engine Make:    Poulan
   
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters:    60
   
Engine Size Cubic Inches:    3.7
Dry Weight:    13
   
Bar Oiler Type:    Automatic
   
Bar Length:    20
PP 380   1998   $400.00   
Engine Make:    Poulan
   
Engine Size Cubic Centimeters:    60
   
Engine Size Cubic Inches:    3.7
Bar Oiler Type:    Automatic
   
Bar Length:    20
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Offline Eccentric

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Poulan 380
« Reply #19 on: April 04, 2015, 07:08:54 pm »
Pulled Jon1212's PoulanPro Super 380 back apart to replace the intake boot.  Boot was leaking from where it'd stretched/torn at the flanged carb end next to where the bolts pass through.  The new boot is covered with some sort of talc type preservative that makes it look grey.  I was going to reassemble it with the new boot and swap in some new crank seals.............but that's on hold because...........






I discovered that the PTO side case half is ckracked behind the tensioner screw.  Tensioner screw was also bent.  That leads me to believe that somebody tightened down the bar nuts with the tensioner peg not properly seated in the bar.  This pushed the tensioner peg/nut into the case half.  A 'scab' of the case is almost completely broken out and pushed into the oil tank. 

Found that bit of good news today when I went to go work on the saw and noticed that it was sitting in a pond of bar oil (after it'd been sitting with a full oil tank).  Now we need whether to decide to replace the cases, 'fix' the case half with JB, or have it welded.  For now, I Rednecked it.  Cut a piece of rubber (the stuff I use for blocking off exhaust/intake ports when doing a pres/vac test) and fitted it behind the tensioner.  It's holding the bar oil in for now....





-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.
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