Author Topic: Poulan 4000  (Read 4383 times)

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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #50 on: March 31, 2014, 01:03:31 am »
Aaron I am not up to speed on the different model carbs.   The ones you like what saws do they normally come on and are they larger in venturi size.

The SDC and HS were both made in a multitude of venturi sizes. 

SDC's were used on most of the McCulloch 10-series saws from 54-82cc, Some 103cc and 123cc McCullochs, some 100cc Homelite 1050/1130G saws, many Homelite 58cc SXL-AO and 58cc XL-101 series saws (first saw with an SDC was a Homelite XL-101), and many others.

I've seen Tillotson HS carbs on saws from the 46cc Remington SL-9 (and the larger Remingtons of that design), through the 54/58cc Homelite XL-12/SXL series (first saw with a Tillotson HS was the XL-12), all of the 77/82cc Homelite XL-700/800/900 series, Poulan 200/300 series and 360-451 series 59-74cc saws, all of the 69-85cc 4200-8500 CounterVibes, many 61-99cc Husqvarnas (61-272, 181-288, 285-2101XP, etc), and on and on and on.

I will probably use an SDC or HS from an XL-12 series Homelite or 10-series Mac, as I have a bunch to choose from.  Will let you know the specifics of what I end up using.  The HDB19-1 on a 4000 has a 16.67mm (.656" or so) venturi bore.

Some SDC and HS carbs have a .625" venturi/.750" throttle bore.  Some HS carbs are .687"/.812".  Some larger SDC's are .750"/.812".  Other HS carbs were made in a multitude of venturi and throttle bore sizes for Husqvarna/Jonsered and others. 

There's also more to a carburetor than venturi/throttle bore sizes.  Metering chamber/diaphragm sizes, pump section sizes and configurations, and many other things affect how a carb works with a given engine.  I've found SDC and HS carbs to be much less quirky/touchy than the HDA/HDB carbs.  They're easy to work on and I usually have a multitude of kits for them on hand.  There are versions of both that are suitable for the 3400-4000 application.  Internal impulse passage and an integral idle speed screw are two such items on my checklist.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #51 on: March 31, 2014, 09:59:23 am »
Great info there Aaron.    I appreciate your letting me know what carb you end up using and what you think of the performance. 
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline bustedknuckles

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #52 on: April 01, 2014, 12:13:26 am »
I did some cutting with a Poulan 4000 today. Not much because the chain needs work. I sharpened it two laps around on the grinder and hit it with a file as well but now realize the rakers are too high.

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #53 on: April 01, 2014, 12:33:04 am »
I did some cutting with a Poulan 4000 today. Not much because the chain needs work. I sharpened it two laps around on the grinder and hit it with a file as well but now realize the rakers are too high.

I just acquired a 4000 myself.   I have not had the chance to do much with it yet but I did pull the muffler and the piston and cylinder are in very nice shape.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #54 on: April 01, 2014, 12:42:18 am »
I'm very impressed with my 4000.  Feels like it has a good 25-30% more power than a 3400.  Doesn't give up much to a Husky 268XP either.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #55 on: April 01, 2014, 01:48:20 pm »
The 4000 I had cut right with any 65cc.  I ran it with a bunch of them one day to test for fun.

Thats the saw to have in that series IMO.
REDNECK Saw Repair

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #56 on: April 01, 2014, 02:52:39 pm »
I'm curious to see how my PP375 runs compared to my 4000.  It has all the 4000 stuff on it (better starter, air filter, and muffler outlet), and is just lacking 3cc (as it has the 3700 p/c).  Will also see if I can get any more out of it with the carb swap.  I have a PP395 lined up too.  Think I'll be done gathering saws in this series at that point.  Sold my 3400's....
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #57 on: April 01, 2014, 04:52:35 pm »
That PP395 is a 4000 with a chain brake.   
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline Eccentric

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #58 on: April 01, 2014, 11:15:47 pm »
That PP395 is a 4000 with a chain brake.   

They don't always have a CB.  I have seen a few 395's without CB's, although the 395 I'm getting does have one.

Mostly a 395 is a late production 4000 in gold and Grey, often with a Zama C3A carb rather than a Walbro HDB.

A PP375 is a gold/black 3700 with the 4000 flywheel, starter pulley, muffler, air filter, and AF cover.  My PP375 came to me with a non-CB clutch cover and a Zama C3A carb.
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

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Re: Poulan 4000
« Reply #59 on: April 01, 2014, 11:30:20 pm »
I have never seen a 395 without a chain brake or a clutch cover marked 395 without a chain brake.     When I bought my first 395 someone had removed the chain brake but it still had the clutch cover made for one.   

Personally I prefer them without the chain brake.   They add weight to the saw and plugs up when cutting noodles.
PP 505, 475, 445.

 

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