Chainsaw Repair

On the Lombard Al-42 series  it was never determined who actually made them nor several other  saws which were in effect Homey xl12 clones .It's mystery yet today because you can get 50 different stories and everyone swears they are correct .I honestly do not know myself .

Speaking of duck bills though  I have this danged Ah 58 Power Products on a Sears gear drive that must have spent 15 years under a pine tree in Pa .That rascal has a Lauson carb that I inadvertatley blew the duck bill check into orbit with compressed air and as far as as I know might be in orbit around the moon by now .I have no idea where in the world to find a rebuilt kit for that carb .

That looks like fun getting those needle bearings back in place.

The easiest way to replace fuel line is to remove fuel tank and carburetor housing from unit. The service manual describes a couple of methods. I didn't check to see if your site has a Poulan 25 (S25) service manual; if it doesn't I can provide one.
If your saw is spitting a lot of fuel out of top of carb, then probably your reed is not sealing properly (it uses same reed as Micro) - the S25 spits fuel, but not excessive like the Micro saws normally do.
The easy way to fix the spitting through fuel cap is to look at inside of cap. There probably will be a black blob of goo (old duckbill melted by rotten fuel) - remove goo - there should be a retaining spring washer in the goo - pry it gently out of cap with a little screwdriver - careful it will pop out forcefully and can be lost. Clean out all goo (there is a counterbore for duckbill flange to sit in) and also run a wire through vent hole in cap. Place new duckbill valve (common little duckbill used on many products) in center hole of retaining washer and press into gas cap with duckbill facing tank. These duckbill valves are available in  3 different colors, use the green one (Poulan P/N 530026119). The black one doesn't like fuel very good, and red one has high temperature resistance but is too soft in my estimation.
The S25 was never offered with an extended rear handle system.

Fuel line replacement on these isn't too hard.  I remove the flywheel housing and flywheel (as suggested elsewhere by ModifiedMark).  Then you can route the fuel line down from the carb box, through the two little cast-in guide loops above and behind where the flywheel sits, and the back to the fuel tank hole (and into the fuel tank).  Those guide loops keep the line away from the spinnin' flywheel.  I use 3/32"x3/16" fuel line on these saws.  You can use .117"x.211" line too, but it's a tighter fit through the guide loops and the pass-through holes. 

The usual tricks of cutting a ^ point on the end of the line, melting a hole through that point, and tying some thin gauge wire through that hole (to 'fish' through the holes in the saw and pull the line after it) as well as oiling up the OD of the line when passing it through work well here.

I usually replace the crank seals when putting new fuel line on a saw that's been sitting for years.  Heck, the flywheel's already off.  The PTO side is easy to get to as well.  Just gotta spin off the clutch.  530019051 is the Poulan # for the crank seals.  Got my last set from my Husky dealer.  Chicago Rawhide/SKF 5510 works fine too.  Same seal on both sides of the saw.

Fuel line replacement on these isn't too hard.  I remove the flywheel housing and flywheel (as suggested elsewhere by ModifiedMark).  Then you can route the fuel line down from the carb box, through the two little cast-in guide loops above and behind where the flywheel sits, and the back to the fuel tank hole (and into the fuel tank).  Those guide loops keep the line away from the spinnin' flywheel.  I use 3/32"x3/16" fuel line on these saws.  You can use .117"x.211" line too, but it's a tighter fit through the guide loops and the pass-through holes. 

The usual tricks of cutting a ^ point on the end of the line, melting a hole through that point, and tying some thin gauge wire through that hole (to 'fish' through the holes in the saw and pull the line after it) as well as oiling up the OD of the line when passing it through work well here.

I usually replace the crank seals when putting new fuel line on a saw that's been sitting for years.  Heck, the flywheel's already off.  The PTO side is easy to get to as well.  Just gotta spin off the clutch.  530019051 is the Poulan # for the crank seals.  Got my last set from my Husky dealer.  Chicago Rawhide/SKF 5510 works fine too.  Same seal on both sides of the saw.

Great info Aaron.   I remember taking the fly wheel off of my S25DA when I replaced the fuel line on it and fishing it through the openings there.    Removing the fly wheel is the only way to go.